Seeds of Abundance - early spring garden Links

Good day to you all. Here in the Willamette Valley of Oregon (USDA zone 7b) spring planting has begun! Since we have large hoop-houses, we are able to start some cool-weather-loving crops even in January (see below) but for most folks, even with greenhouses, seed-starting doesn't usually begin until some time in February. This post contains links to info you may find useful in your own gardens at this time of year. Happy spring planting! (Image: Llyn Peabody "Radiance")

Organic solution to slugs: Here in western Oregon, slugs and snails can have a devastating effect on early spring plantings. Interestingly, the native Banana slug is a composter and only eats dead material but several species of non-natives prefer live foods. Iron phosphate is considered safe by organic standards. Effectively, it constipates the gastropods, interrupting their reproductive cycle. To read more:  Organic solution to slugs

Coffee Grounds and Wood Ash for Soil Fertility: At the Sharing Gardens, we have weaned ourselves off commercial fertilizers and other soil amendments. In our search for readily available additives to the composted leaves and grass that make up the majority of our soil's fertility, we have found that wood ash in particular, has really helped to keep our soil's mineral-content high. And, since we heat our home with wood, it's an abundant and free resource. Here's a post about using wood ash (and coffee grounds too).  Coffee Grounds and Wood Ash for Soil Fertility  (Image: Digging in wood-ash to our raised beds)

Why sunflowers are so great for bees: We all know that many species of bees are in trouble; both the imported honey bees and the diverse native varieties. In fact many other pollinating insects are also showing steep declines worldwide. They need all the help they can get! Researchers have found that there is a specific ingredient in sunflower pollen that acts as a boost to bees' immune systems. Growing sunflowers is great for birds too as their seeds come ripe in the fall when birds need to store up on a diet high in protein and fats for migration and winter health. Why sunflowers are so great for bees

Growing Celery from seed: We began growing our own celery many years ago with great success. The seeds are extremely slow to germinate but once established, a celery crop can be harvested multiple times (cut and 'come again') This feature extends this highly nutritious food with diverse uses well into the following early spring. The crop we have now (early March) is now on its third harvest and we're still cooking it into soups and juicing it fresh. Growing Celery from seed (Image: Chris and Donn take a celery snack-break mid-summer)

Growing Kale from seed: Kale and collard greens are the two most nutrient-dense foods (per calorie) available! Kale is easy to grow, can be harvested over and over again and fall-crops will often winter-over providing fresh greens during the early spring 'hunger gap' (a traditional term for the time when storage crops may be running low). When kissed by a touch of frost, the plants increase in sweetness and tenderness and, as they begin to flower in their second year, this 'raab' (pronounced "rob") is even more packed with nutrition than the leaves alone! No-Fail Kale: The Powerful Health-Benefits of Kale and How to Grow It (Image: Bella loves kale!) 

Planting techniques we use: Over the years we've developed different techniques for germinating seeds. Here are a few...

Planting seedlings in raised beds (for later transplanting): For crops that can germinate in cool soil, and that transplant easily, such as lettuce, cabbage, kale and beets, this method works very well. We plant dense lines of the seeds directly in our raised beds (see image at right). It's easier to maintain temperature and moisture-levels more consistently than by some other methods. When the seedlings are large enough to transplant well (and before their roots get too entangled or deeply established) we gently tease them out of the bed and transplant them into pots, egg-cartons (see below) or into their permanent growing spaces in other beds. (Note, this only works if you have very loose soil). Planting seedlings in raised beds 

Planting lettuce in egg cartons: Whether we start our lettuce seeds in raised beds (above) or tofu-containers (below) they need an interim planting before they can go into the ground in their permanent spots. Egg cartons work really well for this. They use less soil than plastic 6-packs and, because the egg cartons are biodegradable, the seedlings' roots grow right through them. This makes transplanting them very easy (even for children and inexperienced volunteers) without causing root-damage or transplant shock. Planting lettuce in egg cartons

Starting seedlings in repurposed tofu containers: We try to garden with a minimum of environmental impact so, if we can repurpose things, keeping them out of the waste stream, we're all for it! Being vegetarian, we eat a lot of tofu. For many years, our favorite brand came in plastic tubs (image, right). By drilling holes in the bottom, we can use them to start, and grow-out many varieties of seedlings. The tubs are re-usable and use less soil than small plastic six-packs which extends our use of this precious resource. Starting seedlings in repurposed tofu containers 

Best video on pruning table grapes: Early spring is the time for pruning grapes. For many years we struggled to find a method that was easy to understand and implement, and that had great results. The following post links to a video which is the best, brief explanation for this process that we've found. Best video on pruning table grapes

Why we grow and eat organic food: There's an old saying..."You can pay your farmer or pay your doctor". Eating foods grown without the use of toxic chemicals or genetically engineered seeds just makes sense! But if you need some more evidence-based reasons to increase the amount of organically-grown foods in your diet, this post is jam-packed! Why we grow and eat organic food (Image: all, organically grown at the Sharing Gardens!)

May this spring season be full of abundance and blessings in your life and all those you touch. (Chris and Llyn in front of our first Monroe greenhouse, 2011 - with a spring rainbow)

Abundance through Sharing: Our goal is to teach and demonstrate not only the 'how'  and 'why' of growing healthy food but also to communicate the philosophy that underpins our project. We aim to: 

Follow this LINK to read a brief quote from a Lakota Sioux elder on the importance of 'teaching the children a helping way'.

Transplanting Beet Seedlings

A few years ago, we discovered that beet seedlings transplant quite readily. Your nursery soil must be quite loose (so the beet roots don't get damaged when you dig them up). This saves seed, and room in the germination process as you only transplant the viable seedlings.

First we dig a shallow trench and water thoroughly. The trench assures that future waterings channel the water directly to the seedlings and their roots and they're less likely to dry out between waterings. 

Seeds are planted about 3/4" apart with a light sprinkle of sifted soil to cover them; gently pushing them into the soil so they have good contact. 

Beet seeds in the lower, left foreground. A clear plastic nursery cover placed over them keeps them moist (showing at left of picture). We've used plastic sheet-cake covers too, that we rescued from recycling. If the soil starts to dry out, water gently using a watering can (so the seeds don't float away).

Before transplanting, we again make grooves in the soil and water well. The grooves channel subsequent watering down to the seedlings' roots.

Here, Donn uses a piece of bamboo to make holes for the seedlings. They are planted about 4 inches apart.
 

In this picture, Donn is transplanting beets. Llyn, on the right is planting lettuce seedlings. (for more info, see below). 

Our current favorite way to grow lettuce seedlings: in egg cartons. Each seedling is torn individually from the carton, including the egg carton cell, seedling and soil. The roots grow right through the egg cartons. Transplanting them this way reduces transplant shock. Each 'cell' is planted 6-8" apart.  When they get big, we harvest every other one so the remaining ones can get even bigger.(Growing Seedlings in Egg Cartons).

Basic Seed-Saving on a Small Scale

Hello dear friends of the Sharing Gardens. It's been a long stretch since we posted anything new. Autumn is our busiest season and then we often need a bit of time to recharge our energy as the season turns into winter. (Image credit left: Seed abundance! Mike Brunt)

The following post is about processing seed crops on a small-scale. Hopefully, it will inspire you to begin saving some of your own seeds and sharing them locally.

 

Though we're writing this in the heart of winter, if you're interested in saving seeds in the coming growing season, now is the time to be thinking about the varieties you wish to grow (they must be non-hybrid/Heirloom/open-pollinated varieties or they won't produce 'true' seeds).  

It is becoming increasingly clear that growing our own seeds is essential for locally-based food resilience. Rapid climate change (whether from man-made or other causes), the break down of supply chains, the increasing cost of purchasing seeds, all point to this need. 

 

Fortunately, for many plants, it is not that difficult to grow and save your own seeds. Over time, these will become increasingly adapted to your local climate and soil conditions.  

 

Image credit: Llyn Peabody 

The process of saving seeds begins with procuring high-quality, open-pollinated (non-hybrid) seed and growing out the plants in excellent soil with appropriate levels of water and sunlight and protection from pests. These topics are beyond the scope of this post.  

 

This post simply highlights some of the methods and innovations we've come up with over the years for small-scale seed saving. At the bottom of this post you'll find many links posts we've written that go into much more detail about growing and saving seeds from particular crops.  

Humans eat the seeds of many plants. Here, Olivia is harvesting Hopi Red Dye amaranth. Some grain-seeds we save for future planting, some we share with other growers, and most we grind for use in our very own hot breakfast cereal mix. (LINK: 'Nooks and Crannies' hot breakfast cereal RECIPE)

Once you've grown plants to maturity, it's important to harvest them at peak ripeness but not to wait too long or, for seeds that mature in flower heads or seed pods, you risk losing them as they pop-free and fall to the ground. In general, you're looking for pods or flower heads to dry and the seeds themselves to swell and darken. To determine ripeness for individual plant varieties, do your own research. 

For seeds that grow in pods (these are Red Russian kale seeds) you'll want to check them periodically to pick them at peak ripeness. But don't wait too long or the pods may shatter, spreading your precious seeds on the ground.

After harvesting grains, DRYING: Beans, grains, and many other types of seeds, all require a bit of drying before they can be processed. This makes them easier to break out of their pods. To dry, they need warm, dry conditions, protected from mice and birds. In summer and early fall months, we do this in our greenhouses. Use tarps or lay them in flat boxes or plastic totes to catch any seeds that fall from the plants. Be systematic in laying out the seed-heads, spreading them out so they dry evenly.  

Be systematic as you lay out grains, beans or other seed crops to dry. If they are laid out too thick, the bottom layers may not dry properly. (Chris and Suzanne laying out Kassaby sorghum-heads on sheets.)

Smaller seed-heads like these two kinds of amaranth need to be put on tarps to catch falling seeds as the plants dry. (Hopi Red Dye and Golden amaranth)

We lay corn out to dry on tarps before shucking it off the cob. Pull husks back to facilitate drying and only put the cobs one layer deep. (Hooker's Blue and Golden Bantam varieties. Both make excellent dried corn for grinding).

If you have trouble with birds eating your grains or seeds while drying, use a light-colored cotton sheet or cloth to cover them.

We often use cardboard boxes to dry some grains and seeds. The trick is to find boxes that have no holes at the corners (or to tape them closed). (Nantes carrot seeds drying)

Kassaby sorghum drying in a cardboard box.

We dry down some kinds of seeds in plastic totes. (Radish seeds pictured)

Different plants require different methods for removing seeds from their husks. Most seeds (grains and beans) also require sifting to remove the bulk of the chaff from the seeds. These steps are then followed by winnowing (see below). Here are some methods we use:

Some seed-pods are spiky and require gloves to remove them from their husks. Here, Hopi Red Dye amaranth being rubbed through a screen. It will still require winnowing to remove some remaining chaff from the seeds.

Amaranth seed can also be removed by rubbing the seed heads vigorously between one's hands (gloves definitely required). Seeds fall to the tarp. Sifting and winnowing to follow (Image: Darlene and Suzanne with Golden Amaranth - a sweet, mild grain. One of our favorites for breakfast cereal).

Golden amaranth seed being run through a sieve. Seeds shake out below.

Rolling pin method: Some seeds are more conducive to a rolling-pin method (radish seeds pictured). Using a rolling pin, or wide, wooden dowel, the seeds are popped out of their pods. They are then sifted to remove big pieces of chaff, and winnowed.

Sorghum: Here are some specific techniques we've developed to process sorghum seed.

Sorghum processing tools: Sifter on left and a tool Chris invented by affixing a metal pet-comb to a 2"x4" piece of wood. These tools work great for medium-sized seed-heads such as sorghum.

Chris' pet-comb tool in use. The seed-heads are gently drawn upwards to dislodge them from the plant-stalk and captured in the tote below. (Image: Kassaby sorghum)

Sorghum being passed through a 1/4"  metal screen to further break up the seed-head clusters.

Sorghum (BaYe Ki variety) being passed through a final screening (a nursery-flat with smaller holes than 1/4" screen). Winnowing will follow.

Corn:

Note that, while corn is drying on the cob, we've peeled the husks back but left them attached. This facilitates them drying faster as the husks wick away moisture. (Golden Bantam corn, with a bit of crossing with Hooker's blue in previous years of seed-saving. Corn is a very 'frisky' plant; eager to cross-pollinate).

Chris invented this tool to remove dried corn kernels from the cob. Long screws are drilled in from the outside with reinforcements of wood on the sides to prevent the tool from splitting under pressure. A handle makes it easier to use.

Corn-shucking tool, in use. As you rub the cob against the screws, the kernels fall into the bin below. Corn definitely requires further drying before storage or it is at risk of molding.

Beans: We use different methods to process seeds from pole beans (like Scarlet Runner beans) than bush beans (Kidney beans). Pole beans we process by hand; letting the beans dry on the vine and popping them from their pods by hand. Bush beans are more conducive to flailing (see below).

Many of our beans seeds are processed over a wide-mouth bin or tarp to capture falling seeds. A fun task for all ages! Be sure pods are good and dry. This will make processing much easier.

Kidney beans (which are a bush-variety of beans) are processed most quickly through a flailing method. It helps if the pods are fairly dry. We lay them on a tarp and whack them with pieces of plastic piping. This knocks the seeds from their shells.

After flailing, to further dislodge the beans from their pods, we sift them through a 1/2" wire mesh which removes the longer pieces of stems and chaff.

Kidney beans after sifting. The next step is winnowing.

Winnowing: Next we winnow our seeds, separating the remainder of the chaff (or at least most of it) from the seeds by pouring them from one container to another, multiple times, on a mildly windy day (or in front of a fan). The heavier seeds drop into the container below while the chaff blows away. Be sure you have a high enough 'drop' (space between the top and bottom containers) for the wind to blow away the chaff and a large enough receptacle below so that all the pouring seeds fall within it. 

 

Chris, winnowing beet seed in the wind.

Chris, winnowing Kidney beans in front of a fan.

Further Drying: All beans, grains and seeds will require further drying after they've been processed otherwise they are in danger of molding when in storage. We have found that bringing them indoors and finishing the drying process with a heat source works best for us. For small amounts, a food dehydrator on a very low setting can work as well.

If we're harvesting our seeds in late fall, some will require more drying than is possible outdoors as the sun becomes weaker and the air becomes more humid. When this is the case, we bring them inside and put them on shelves above our wood stove to dry. These are Kassaby sorghum heads before processing arranged in a basket for best air-flow. 

After winnowing, we put grains and beans and other seeds in baskets with a paper lining and continue to dry them inside.

We've hung shelves all around our living room above the wood stove to dry plant material, including seeds. If you don't have a wood stove, you can use a small space-heater or put seeds some place where warm, dry air circulates in your home.

Storage: After all your precious time and effort has gone into saving your seeds, be sure to store them well. Everything should have a clear label with the variety of seed and the year it was harvested. 

Our seed supply is mostly kept in our freezer with everything stored in air-tight containers. Though the cold temps will slow down the aging of the seeds, conditions can be too dry if seeds don't have air-tight protection. Sometimes we even use freezer-bags inside of plastic jars just to be sure.

Our food supply of grains and beans are also stored in air-tight containers in our pantry, out of direct sunlight. 

Nantes carrot seeds almost ready for harvest. These seed-heads all came from just three carrots re-planted after a period of dormancy in our fridge (Re-planting Carrots or Beets for Seed) . So, three seeds produced this many seeds for the future! (Note: lettuce plant going-to-seed at the left of the picture.)

Seeds are about community: Lastly, once you begin saving seeds, you'll soon find that your plants are able to produce far more seeds than you will be able to use. We have shared seeds with the Agrarian Sharing Network and their Seed Increase Initiative to help us distribute our seeds to a wider regional community and hope to participate in the Cascadia Seed Guild as they develop. This group, stewarded by Mike Brunt (the featured artist in this post) has developed this comprehensive guide outlining the need for bio-regional seed sovereignty and a road-map for getting there. Good stuff.

 

Seed swap at an Agrarian Sharing Network Propagation Fair, 2025.

Seeds help grow community connections. Here is a seed swap in someone's living room. Most of these women are connected to a small-scale, non-profit garden project so these shared seeds will continue to multiply and spread to an ever greater community.

Relevant Sharing Gardens LINKS: Here are relevant posts for saving specific kinds of seeds: (Image credit left: Five Sisters Abundance (corn, beans, squash, amaranth and sunflowers) Mike Brunt)

Family Heirlooms - Saving Your Own Seed: A general guide to saving seeds.

In addition, we have written posts on the specifics of saving seeds from the following plants:

Re-planting Carrots or Beets for Seed 

Growing Kale and Saving and Storing Kale Seed  

Saving Tomato Seeds 

Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn'  

Grow your own Sorghum for grain and flour: Small-Scale Grain Production and Processing 

Lettuce: From Seed to Feed - Part 2: Saving Seed  

Saving pea seeds- a low tech method to prevent Pea Weevil damage   

Grow Your Own Protein - Scarlet Runner Beans 

Sprouting potatoes? What to do.  

Though we're writing this in the heart of winter, if you're interested in saving seeds in the coming growing season, now is the time to be thinking about the varieties you wish to grow (they must be non-hybrid/Heirloom/open-pollinated varieties or they won't produce 'true' seeds).