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Healthy pea seedlings. |
If you have raised beds, direct sowing shouldn't be an issue but if, like us, you don't have that luxury, here's a method we've used successfully for several years to deal with these challenges:
You'll need:
- Seeds (link to article on saving your own pea-seeds)
- Soil
- 4" pots (4"-6" deep) - deeper pots give more time before plants become root-bound.
Poke two seeds, in opposite corners, about the depth of one knuckle (3/4" or so). That's two seeds per pot. This gives each plant enough soil to germinate and grow to several inches in height before you transplant. Cover the seeds with soil so they're not exposed to sun. Water them gently. Do not over-water. Seedlings can rot if soil is too damp.
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Note: Since having written this article, we have now shifted to planting two seeds per pot but do not have photos to reflect this. |
When the plants are at least 6", and no longer than 12", you can put them in your garden, or greenhouse beds. Best to wait until their root-systems are quite dense in the pots -- almost "root-bound". They will be easier to transplant without damaging the plants. On the other-hand, if you wait until the stems are too long, you risk breaking stems during transplanting so it's a matter of finding the right balance.
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Pea-seedlings in pots. |
Pea-plants are
not typically transplanted but sowed directly in place. They are very
susceptible to shock so be gentle with the roots and stems. Dig a hole that's about the size of your 4" pot. Gently tap the whole pot of soil, with its two plants into the palm of your hand, flip it back upright and lower it into the pre-dug hole. Tamp it down lightly to secure good root-contact with the surrounding soil but don't press too hard.
If slugs, bunnies or birds are a big issue in your area (they all love to nibble pea-seedlings!),
planting them in milk-carton collars can make a big difference (Link to post on Re-Purposing Things - including milk-cartons as collars). We
also typically sprinkle about a teaspoon of iron-phosphate ("Sluggo")
around each bunch of plants. This is an organically-approved way of
dealing with slug/snail infestations in your garden. (LINK to article about iron phosphate).
The plants will
go through a little stress from transplanting but once they acclimatize
to their new environment they'll be well along the way to yielding a
bounteous and long-term harvest!
Other relevant posts for early-spring gardening:
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Good idea to have trellis in place before you transplant peas (so you're less likely to damage roots). |
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Chris and Jesse transplanting in the Alpine Garden - 2010. |
Other relevant posts for early-spring gardening:
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