Garden tips for Peas:
In our region (Zone 8b - Last frost-date zone map - USA),
its ideal to plant peas around Valentine's Day. This
gives them the best head start for blooming in time for the longest
possible harvest season. The problem is that, here in Alpine/Monroe,
Oregon, the soil is often very wet
and cold this time of year and, even if you get a good start sowing
seeds directly in the
soil, the March and April rains can significantly retard their growth,
the seedlings can rot off at soil-level, or slugs can decimate your
starts.
If you have outdoor raised beds, direct sowing shouldn't be an issue but if,
like us, you don't have that luxury, what follows is a method we've used
successfully for several years to deal with these challenges.
By starting seeds
in pots and later transplanting them it will increase your chances of an
early, abundant edible-pod pea harvest.
For this method
you will need a greenhouse (or indoor seed-germination set-up), and live
in a
similar climate as the Sharing Gardens (we're in zone 8b, according
to the
this zone map of typical first and last frost dates). You can
start your seeds in pots much earlier than you would be able to
direct sow them outside. Depending on when you start the seeds, they
can be
transplanted into a greenhouse for earliest pea-production, or
later, to beds outside.
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Peas, started in pots.
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For plants that will be grown to maturity in our greenhouses, we start our seeds as early as the
first week of
January. These are then
transplanted to greenhouse raised beds by
mid-February.
Seeds started in pots in mid-February can be
transplanted
to outside beds in March.
By
starting our first batch of seeds at the new year, we can be eating
peas by late March and on into April - at which point the peas we plant
outside the greenhouse will begin producing and carry us through May or June!
You'll need:
- Seeds: Our favorite varieties are: Sugar Snaps - delicious pods/shorter trellis - 6' or Melting Sugar - need a tall trellis - 8' - very prolific but not as sweet.
- Soil
- 4" pots (4-6" deep) - the deeper pots give more time before plants become root-bound. You'll need one pot per two seeds. Plants will be transplanted at a spacing of 6"-8".
Fill pots to within a half-inch of the top. Water the soil to help it settle.
Poke two seeds, in opposite corners, about the depth of one knuckle (3/4" or so).
That's
two seeds per pot. This gives each plant enough soil to
germinate and grow to
several inches in height before you transplant.
Cover the seeds with soil (about the depth of two seeds-deep)
so they're not exposed to sun.
Water them gently. Do not over-water. Seedlings can rot if soil is too damp.
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Plant two seeds in opposite corners.Note: Since having first written this article, we have now shifted to planting two seeds per pot but do not have photos to reflect this.
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Keep the potted seeds
protected from marauding slugs
by putting them up on a table, or putting a milk-carton collar around
them.
(Link to post on Re-Purposing Things - including milk-cartons as collars)
.
If you're planting in January,
you'll need a greenhouse, or indoor germination set-up to protect them
and keep soil in pots warm enough for germination. If you wait until mid-February, pots can be outside in a sunny place, protected from north winds. Temporarily bring them inside if faced with a severe freeze.
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Pea seedlings in pots. Pea leaves and tendrils are edible and delicious in salads.
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When they are at least
6", and no longer than 12", you can put them in your garden, or greenhouse beds. Best to
wait until their root-systems are quite dense in the pots -- almost
"root-bound". They will be easier to transplant without damaging the
plants. On the other-hand, if you wait until the stems are too long, you
risk breaking stems during transplanting so it's a matter of finding
the right balance.
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| These
peas are ready to be transplanted! In fact they're almost too well
developed! Tendrils from neighboring plants are starting to entwine.
Pea plants are very fragile and you must be careful not to break the
stems. |
Transplanting: Plant each 4" pot (with its two seedlings) about 8"- 10" apart with thin bamboo stakes or
other climbing trellis in between each clump of starts. (Note: peas need a trellis with stakes or caging that is less than 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter. They climb using tendrils (instead of wrapping around the trellis - like beans) and won't be able to grab and climb if your trellis/caging uprights are too thick.)
Pea-plants are
not typically transplanted but sowed directly in place. They are very
susceptible to shock so be gentle with the roots and stems. Best to have
your trellis in place before you transplant so you don't injure
roots driving in the stakes.
If slugs are a big issue in your area,
planting them in milk-carton collars can make a big difference. We
also typically sprinkle about a teaspoon of iron-phosphate ("Sluggo")
around each bunch of plants. This is an organically-approved way of
dealing with slug/snail infestations in your garden.
(LINK to article about iron phosphate).
The plants might go through
a little stress from transplanting but once they acclimatize
to their new environment they'll be well along the way to yielding a
bounteous and long-term harvest!
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| Good idea to have trellis in place before you transplant peas (so you're less likely to damage roots).
The plants will
go through a little stress from transplanting but once they acclimatize
to their new environment they'll be well along the way to yielding a
bounteous and long-term harvest! | |
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| John and Llyn transplanting pea-seedlings outside in early to mid-spring. It's a good idea to have your trellis in place before you transplant peas (so you're less likely to damage roots). |
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Sara picking peas in the greenhouse in April. Note: peas need a trellis with stakes or caging that is less than 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter. They climb using tendrils (instead of wrapping around the trellis - like beans) and won't be able to grab and climb if your trellis/caging uprights are too thick.
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| Pea-vines
headed for the compost pile. Peas, being legumes are able to add
nitrogen to your soil through a symbiotic relationship with organisms
that grow on their roots. This will help improve your soil, particularly
if you leave the roots in the ground when you cut down the "greens" to
add to your compost pile. (Link: Saving pea seeds - a low tech method to prevent 'pea weevil' damage) |
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| Growing food together, grows community too! |
Other relevant posts for early-spring gardening:
