tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90354135956151193652024-03-27T10:39:56.327-07:00The Sharing Gardens ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.comBlogger277125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-80401495772245573102024-03-19T14:04:00.000-07:002024-03-20T13:39:05.892-07:00And then the rains came!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_mRlhk1HqEt41nMhXs9VWI6uIJ7hg1zsRfteCrDM00MlLVjtawCuV1eW7Wu5M74JNdNNsUpEJ-oeF_F1krTMTjFAjxgJn5Tr9CpT53zw66JupwNGg6WT-bPAmLDHjsHQara8safbA3T743BxnS8rkG82qnfGSCZXQ4iJr97u1fd4t9VG12rC1gENYG9Zz/s1000/rainy%20days-housework.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_mRlhk1HqEt41nMhXs9VWI6uIJ7hg1zsRfteCrDM00MlLVjtawCuV1eW7Wu5M74JNdNNsUpEJ-oeF_F1krTMTjFAjxgJn5Tr9CpT53zw66JupwNGg6WT-bPAmLDHjsHQara8safbA3T743BxnS8rkG82qnfGSCZXQ4iJr97u1fd4t9VG12rC1gENYG9Zz/w200-h200/rainy%20days-housework.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><p>Well folks, in the past month or so, the southern Willamette valley where we live has been under repeated waves of deluging downpours that have swelled the watershed drainage at the back of the land to a shallow creek over fifteen feet across. In the fourteen years that we've grown food on this land, there was only one other winter with such persistent and extreme flooding. I'm not sure how much extra housework we got done (above) but we are so very grateful for our greenhouse/grow tunnels which have allowed us to get a jump on starting seeds. The other big weather challenge we faced since our last post was a four-night stretch of sub-freezing temps.<br /></p><p></p>This post is about how the food we started to grow in early January has
fared and the ways we've mitigated these extremes in the weather. This
post also includes many live LINKS to seasonally relevant articles.
Enjoy!<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jsTd5LJMJe5I1loFYQOOH1MyEK-liSF291pEXxD2tzpj4YPUPkfc-3n6d_L6oUUNzqHdg9hEsmsAycz093oYjW8oRaFr-GTDQ7w-ZbvfSzoL-MDXP4CdIR3Aewo70905W14IMYG2bM7Aru60Ks93v2pZJN_rinVBPGDE5hDk_SjQYNWFmbuLfmPLi-GY/s937/baby%20carrots.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="937" data-original-width="852" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jsTd5LJMJe5I1loFYQOOH1MyEK-liSF291pEXxD2tzpj4YPUPkfc-3n6d_L6oUUNzqHdg9hEsmsAycz093oYjW8oRaFr-GTDQ7w-ZbvfSzoL-MDXP4CdIR3Aewo70905W14IMYG2bM7Aru60Ks93v2pZJN_rinVBPGDE5hDk_SjQYNWFmbuLfmPLi-GY/w182-h200/baby%20carrots.jpg" width="182" /></a></div><b>Rain is always a challenge</b> here in the winter so, even though this was a
rainier winter than average, it hasn't really slowed us down too
much; we have hundreds of veg-starts and perennial herb and flower
plants already thriving in pots, and hundreds more plants already in the
ground. <p></p><p>Chris planted our first carrot crops on January 5th in the
greenhouse raised beds he completely rebuilt in December. They're doing
beautifully. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYRnSdMgAUf8_3KzhI5QacGjYku-ilnwYQUmfTkffZ04qXqr2EYtOE_EdNdiyAxvGpIPrcwK1ilckrDYaKi1Od83C2BpwouHtmGmos3M_FrS8qIf0Y-Q-Q0AxO488roPTa9SDOLRYaYxv6gK4kFd27iahVXry8fhYOVaxKslCH2M019D-o5vZW65eGbaM/s3464/GP.Chris.starting%20seeds.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3464" data-original-width="2294" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYRnSdMgAUf8_3KzhI5QacGjYku-ilnwYQUmfTkffZ04qXqr2EYtOE_EdNdiyAxvGpIPrcwK1ilckrDYaKi1Od83C2BpwouHtmGmos3M_FrS8qIf0Y-Q-Q0AxO488roPTa9SDOLRYaYxv6gK4kFd27iahVXry8fhYOVaxKslCH2M019D-o5vZW65eGbaM/s320/GP.Chris.starting%20seeds.jpg" width="212" /></a></div><p>By mid-January, Chris began starting other cold-tolerant crops including beets, lettuce, kale, collards and cabbage. We make all our own potting mix and use re-purposed tofu containers, with holes drilled in the bottoms to germinate seeds and 'pot-up' the seedlings once they're big enough (right). </p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUwAORBo7FgJygqfgrHqIwd5AqY5ywLJNTrrQDFcU0Q0LNN-RaPgBwSIRlQbUdQIFyg_xI9v0sfQeEa8Jmx6a7KCoNIhlLZtNGF78xkkjcmPRnhYVlYy-YVvVmXwR0jfmssZEYfVflwRfLgq-bGvEsfXdhd6hLhSD1AyIDiMEWgouqn62W6OSfju7XH_m/s2511/GP.digging%20GH%20beds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1727" data-original-width="2511" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUwAORBo7FgJygqfgrHqIwd5AqY5ywLJNTrrQDFcU0Q0LNN-RaPgBwSIRlQbUdQIFyg_xI9v0sfQeEa8Jmx6a7KCoNIhlLZtNGF78xkkjcmPRnhYVlYy-YVvVmXwR0jfmssZEYfVflwRfLgq-bGvEsfXdhd6hLhSD1AyIDiMEWgouqn62W6OSfju7XH_m/w400-h275/GP.digging%20GH%20beds.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris re-built all our raised beds in our two main greenhouses during December. He managed to save the wonderful soil we'd already accumulated over the years. Every winter we also add more of our amazing home-grown compost, generated right in the greenhouse paths. <b>(<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2022/12/how-we-growveganic-community-based.html" target="_blank">LINK: How we grow...Veganic Community-based gardening</a>)</b> Note: Rows of red and green lettuce in the beds behind him and in front of him, and potted seedlings in the path he's crawling along. This pic was taken March 6th.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-IV60RJ_38YMfANMScSr93sYmjlhm3BAPZwUc8oORPNpgeDmg_YWgIyEX6QyeRVTBQVG7fZW8xGsNmvpjNHJAkwOm9ETF4wGItWvRFLFq62Az4JVqgWi20oIdizMbw_LkdJc8RtrEQuetW7Jt5hWt2wuQ-Yz8aphTXGDHTYndNnAuze-d0nn6pekuUGW/s3126/GP.GH%20starts.Mar-10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3126" data-original-width="2288" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-IV60RJ_38YMfANMScSr93sYmjlhm3BAPZwUc8oORPNpgeDmg_YWgIyEX6QyeRVTBQVG7fZW8xGsNmvpjNHJAkwOm9ETF4wGItWvRFLFq62Az4JVqgWi20oIdizMbw_LkdJc8RtrEQuetW7Jt5hWt2wuQ-Yz8aphTXGDHTYndNnAuze-d0nn6pekuUGW/w293-h400/GP.GH%20starts.Mar-10.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This pic was taken just four days later on March 10th. Everything is growing so well now! Red Russian kale on left with Four Seasons red and Slo-bolt green lettuce above the kale <b>(<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/07/lettuce-from-seed-to-feed-part-1.html" target="_blank">LINK: Planting Lettuce (or other cool-weather loving crops) from seed</a>)</b>. The dominant seedlings in the GH path are cabbage and more kale plants, primarily for sharing. The white specks in the raised bed to the right are perlite which is a natural material derived from volcanic glass which helps soil drain better <b><a href="https://www.epicgardening.com/perlite/" target="_blank">LINK: Perlite</a></b>. It's the only commercial additive we use in making our potting mix. We also mix it into all our greenhouse raised beds.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivh18KdnYXmmWSbn5f9yfjz9pLy1jfXBkr900pGKpInhDmPI7JUA5a2-U80X2YTEM7FH-I93QETZOVjw9jL4_vZHVe8o1I1VX9Rnr0iBBg9GaRcxDhBVj7udANKDZI-0_QTOnrTtdG41Z6gGalZ0OjLfpnEFcjYSvkmmuGEENI2-TJBkakIfHCXZrxZo9z/s4128/GP.grass%20mulch.GH1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivh18KdnYXmmWSbn5f9yfjz9pLy1jfXBkr900pGKpInhDmPI7JUA5a2-U80X2YTEM7FH-I93QETZOVjw9jL4_vZHVe8o1I1VX9Rnr0iBBg9GaRcxDhBVj7udANKDZI-0_QTOnrTtdG41Z6gGalZ0OjLfpnEFcjYSvkmmuGEENI2-TJBkakIfHCXZrxZo9z/w300-h400/GP.grass%20mulch.GH1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In between the heavy downpours, we have had a couple of sunny stretches that allowed the land to drain and dry out enough to harvest some grass clippings. Leaves and grass are all we put in our greenhouse paths. These turn to compost over the full garden season and we harvest the compost in the autumn to use throughout the gardens <b>(<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/10/making-your-own-veganic-potting-soil-in.html" target="_blank">LINK: Making Your Own "Veganic" Potting Soil in Your Greenhouse Paths - Using Worms </a>)</b></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Though we've had to cancel close to half the Monday share-giver (volunteer) sessions this winter
due to inclement weather</b>, we have had <b>two dedicated folks</b> who seem to
be just about as crazy for gardening and the fellowship that it brings
throughout <i>all </i>the seasons as Chris and I - Donn and Suzanne. I know that all four of us have really looked forward
to being together on Monday mornings with our hands and knees and hearts touching the
Earth. If you're local and itching to get your hands in the dirt, <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/p/garden-location-volunteer-times-and.html" target="_blank">here's info about joining our share-givers (volunteers) this spring</a></b>.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1vyph74Wn9q5wQgdGu81iuDvGSNwX8N5uEMedNxpZO0C3GrRWxXejC-oq0qY9n25sP948JzHELUoYWo8aXlVNmnP7llVpeBJ1pwdM9RThmvF8_jpv0fKar49hxCyc4oBRvc1dEtfDuhQvZlWp12KUjU6bgJTowFHGIA6x0mTM30lp1xQMa1D_ivMEPJG/s2434/v.Suz.lettuce%20planting.Feb-12.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2434" data-original-width="1776" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1vyph74Wn9q5wQgdGu81iuDvGSNwX8N5uEMedNxpZO0C3GrRWxXejC-oq0qY9n25sP948JzHELUoYWo8aXlVNmnP7llVpeBJ1pwdM9RThmvF8_jpv0fKar49hxCyc4oBRvc1dEtfDuhQvZlWp12KUjU6bgJTowFHGIA6x0mTM30lp1xQMa1D_ivMEPJG/w291-h400/v.Suz.lettuce%20planting.Feb-12.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's Suzanne on Feb. 12th, <b>planting lettuce starts.</b> These are the same ones shown in the pics above. They're really growing fast now. Soon, we'll start harvesting a leaf or two off each one for fresh salads.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndHBIX5c3CEsKN0zgnrarcHtPVShaDrzaGix96Fk2gPkZ5GtNP9gE0hbRGzG5Y9beVRhBwrhVGbZlvEW7ZUS81v_lVaFZzYo1abie8k04rw9fZs5OhnQZUtKkqarFsslC7hmmg5HALS2T16rhO3Ln0njz86UPx5e7rvWTtJIOLDW1AU2igrPP9Ns78yTm/s2755/v.Donn.Chris.firewood.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1836" data-original-width="2755" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndHBIX5c3CEsKN0zgnrarcHtPVShaDrzaGix96Fk2gPkZ5GtNP9gE0hbRGzG5Y9beVRhBwrhVGbZlvEW7ZUS81v_lVaFZzYo1abie8k04rw9fZs5OhnQZUtKkqarFsslC7hmmg5HALS2T16rhO3Ln0njz86UPx5e7rvWTtJIOLDW1AU2igrPP9Ns78yTm/w400-h266/v.Donn.Chris.firewood.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We've had two large donations of <b>firewood</b> this season. Here are Donn and Chris splitting oak and cherry which will dry through the summer and be ready to use next season. Donn loans us the use of the hydraulic splitter and helps with the collecting and splitting of the wood and keeps much of the wood to heat his home too.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_g1PBIrDHITSTXSKJzmmE-f7RjjVkfNNp572ZQK8e5tWd545pSKstrNUQoCwqKOWyVNKG77InSpxzefd4yLvXhsTImsb0BffnvFm2wNpkn9ctjLmTeutyDRZMlzld_dvjQVAl3RuLr1LGcKAjKH70HR6hPU4FKs06CdGB7Ixn7i-TL_6EcyWB-L8c83g/s2844/v.Chris.Donn.Mar%20-%202024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2158" data-original-width="2844" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_g1PBIrDHITSTXSKJzmmE-f7RjjVkfNNp572ZQK8e5tWd545pSKstrNUQoCwqKOWyVNKG77InSpxzefd4yLvXhsTImsb0BffnvFm2wNpkn9ctjLmTeutyDRZMlzld_dvjQVAl3RuLr1LGcKAjKH70HR6hPU4FKs06CdGB7Ixn7i-TL_6EcyWB-L8c83g/w400-h304/v.Chris.Donn.Mar%20-%202024.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter garden-time often includes wonderful conversations around the wood stove in the Sunship-greenhouse. We use the wood ash throughout the gardens and orchards to mineralize the soil. (<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/coffee-grounds-and-wood-ash-for-soil.html" target="_blank">LINK: Coffee Grounds and Wood Ash for Soil Fertility</a></b>)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p><b>COLD!</b> Aside from the <b>epic January ice storm</b> that we wrote about in our previous post (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2024/02/a-love-like-that-historic-ice-storm.html" target="_blank"><b>LINK: A Love Like That! Historic ice storm...</b></a>) we also had a <b>severe cold snap</b> a few weeks ago with several nights in a row where <b>temps
dipped into the high 20's</b>. <b>This put our greenhouse potato crop at high risk of
frost damage.</b></p><p>In 2023 we experimented for the first time with <b>growing potatoes in our
greenhouses</b>. We had a bunch of potatoes sprouting from the crop we'd
harvested in October of 2022 but it was still too cold and wet <i>outside</i> to plant them. <b>The experiment was a success so we repeated it this winter. </b><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHQGXZmfSPNOOtBHjwclad5JrJQI01adXIf1NGzogzUaB6oxDIUcEWfbaudIFGm6oZa_ou4fh8U2OtZabk1uBH_o_K-xTTGdcJxlojJF0xUB_bWUMd-7rcbljOwxvKtpsfJGGjH236PR4b-vAPMCElAMBmxC-Mmmp_TnwzBYAdOoKoqXf9c_CF-o4zDMl/s3395/GP.potatoes%20covered.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3395" data-original-width="2322" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHQGXZmfSPNOOtBHjwclad5JrJQI01adXIf1NGzogzUaB6oxDIUcEWfbaudIFGm6oZa_ou4fh8U2OtZabk1uBH_o_K-xTTGdcJxlojJF0xUB_bWUMd-7rcbljOwxvKtpsfJGGjH236PR4b-vAPMCElAMBmxC-Mmmp_TnwzBYAdOoKoqXf9c_CF-o4zDMl/w274-h400/GP.potatoes%20covered.jpg" width="274" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Potatoes are <i>very </i>susceptible to the cold </b>and, if their leaves get frosted hard enough it can either cause the potato to form a hollow in its center, or even kill the plant outright. So, since the greens have grown above the leaf mulch, on any nights that are even <i>approaching</i> the freezing mark, we have<b> blanketed them in three layers of a polyester cloth specifically designed as an agricultural "row cover"</b>...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeleH-mWlDLGtKgkY5ww1h35lA2RSfiSbp58HGjgTsF6fuR6JqOIux1Cb0JI2vVf7SWgQCct47sWVs3G4xE_TiB2CbxAA0EJqK8sQBJqoPAIWR_FaTS_I24pIeFgYFPyHrpGN5HkvZSLl5enObDb1s1ibvQjRZKuqmTaXTgiEN6pZIFwtQp1GjotLcLJp/w300-h400/HV.potato.tarp%20for%20cold.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>...followed by a tarp.</b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrdEJjP0i9QAE6-iF7RLEnP6l1LvBq-kbR0pQ5nhRtiocfo6EdvnCTdz60OF8WjZDwR7uuKq91bsQqOKsjwXsuZVuJ1q33hAuQzg3Tj06T1_E-FThXw-N_aVMROhg0t1ZW58RmFs0DYO6-G8lAE6PhuihcjiDcNPbr4nGecLGMFTgcV6WnMHehblae-wQ/s2682/GP.potatoes.Mar18.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1817" data-original-width="2682" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrdEJjP0i9QAE6-iF7RLEnP6l1LvBq-kbR0pQ5nhRtiocfo6EdvnCTdz60OF8WjZDwR7uuKq91bsQqOKsjwXsuZVuJ1q33hAuQzg3Tj06T1_E-FThXw-N_aVMROhg0t1ZW58RmFs0DYO6-G8lAE6PhuihcjiDcNPbr4nGecLGMFTgcV6WnMHehblae-wQ/w400-h271/GP.potatoes.Mar18.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <b>So far, so good! </b>(Image: March 18th)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <b>WET: </b>As I mentioned above, rain is a normal part of a western Oregon winter! We are <b>so incredibly grateful that we have so much of our gardens under the protection of our greenhouses</b> (just under 3,000 sq/ft). The water line that goes from our well to the spigots in our gardens is not, however, <i>cold-proof!</i> <b>At the first sign of a hard freeze</b> (usually in late November) <b>we have to shut off and drain the garden's water lines.</b> This means <b>we must rely on the collection of rainwater for our seedlings throughout the coldest part of the winter.</b><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxE2_dAMW9BIzrX8bHdxElAg6w8l0NVMo7pH_xIvjmEeXi7huiNS4j3djGNt05kfZ4xQTIsV35yP8hRWGQLmds_1JACbj1skaYEKb-oxXIlNM9p_llX2sWTj0lxKpwUKZlLbRYlduG5_fRwwqJ_t9sQdC6dB_F7S-e6lsqh4KtSc-FjJtL4rWDUqYZGR0p/s3061/GP-water%20catchment.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2055" data-original-width="3061" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxE2_dAMW9BIzrX8bHdxElAg6w8l0NVMo7pH_xIvjmEeXi7huiNS4j3djGNt05kfZ4xQTIsV35yP8hRWGQLmds_1JACbj1skaYEKb-oxXIlNM9p_llX2sWTj0lxKpwUKZlLbRYlduG5_fRwwqJ_t9sQdC6dB_F7S-e6lsqh4KtSc-FjJtL4rWDUqYZGR0p/w400-h269/GP-water%20catchment.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris, setting up a row of <b>rain buckets</b> to capture this free gift from the sky...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTQHxivegCHOmmprMu_7dSxkyQeNh6jB6ykMe_UYNbnlO-m1CBB8BJBVfkeQirsu4wJS1-vMZKnkq4bexmLHvh-oEztNTMGtElecerYvLehg8YxbHiTxv-pMOT1w7tTzGQJzfAQE22DUBF1Ui5IFfrBMRlV4xKBeeXQpkO73jMUXU-cgorT323kXn98oP/s2479/GP.rain%20barrels-food%20grade.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2193" data-original-width="2479" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTQHxivegCHOmmprMu_7dSxkyQeNh6jB6ykMe_UYNbnlO-m1CBB8BJBVfkeQirsu4wJS1-vMZKnkq4bexmLHvh-oEztNTMGtElecerYvLehg8YxbHiTxv-pMOT1w7tTzGQJzfAQE22DUBF1Ui5IFfrBMRlV4xKBeeXQpkO73jMUXU-cgorT323kXn98oP/w400-h354/GP.rain%20barrels-food%20grade.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The<b> buckets lined up under the drip line of our garden shed roof</b> fill the fastest (above). Those are <b>food-grade soy sauce buckets</b> a friend scored from his work in a deli. The racks above are storing <b>bamboo poles.</b> Bamboo rots really fast if in direct contact with wet ground but otherwise will last for many years (we harvested this bamboo in 2011).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouyOePzNBhGtUtixsQapv78rpHDrp_2TtmOmE3BZKsvqI02biVq8snKzD0TQAnt50wgCC7eaAvU3GKKBOVHvFvDm6HwfY4uwvuZwDGWo6AWQlyzhGCim_O-Wpo65WMQUYedAfAas_XRtqYemsLpuRXm55KrMYSLxhhuAZmtkADUjLMk6nnrNpM_UMufVL/s3296/GP-water%20catchmnt.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2472" data-original-width="3296" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouyOePzNBhGtUtixsQapv78rpHDrp_2TtmOmE3BZKsvqI02biVq8snKzD0TQAnt50wgCC7eaAvU3GKKBOVHvFvDm6HwfY4uwvuZwDGWo6AWQlyzhGCim_O-Wpo65WMQUYedAfAas_XRtqYemsLpuRXm55KrMYSLxhhuAZmtkADUjLMk6nnrNpM_UMufVL/w400-h300/GP-water%20catchmnt.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's a walk down memory lane! <b>Here's the same side of our garden shed before we built the bamboo racks.</b> Chris made the sign for our original garden site in Alpine (2009/2010).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2217is2tVBXQDz8PjwdoeztYWI3TBmU3u9hZyYxy2SAQ2J8634pxHBwncfLeQbEJAAv-D7kpeNp9UUcZoKt7kAVOvHpVStgZdTcOEjvHCxno1mwYPfQMpuhHtq-L8b8H7DTVuYQ3AlQ0STUOAikTf87Bj9D_B23UFyblf9nc6nQTOe2YYV95t0vLMd4lR/s3264/GP-rain%20barrel%20with%20willow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2217is2tVBXQDz8PjwdoeztYWI3TBmU3u9hZyYxy2SAQ2J8634pxHBwncfLeQbEJAAv-D7kpeNp9UUcZoKt7kAVOvHpVStgZdTcOEjvHCxno1mwYPfQMpuhHtq-L8b8H7DTVuYQ3AlQ0STUOAikTf87Bj9D_B23UFyblf9nc6nQTOe2YYV95t0vLMd4lR/w300-h400/GP-rain%20barrel%20with%20willow.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>After collecting water in the buckets we pour it into large trashcans </b>and dip out of these to fill our watering cans. The <b>willow branches</b> (above) are said to add a mild 'rooting hormone' to the water which we figure probably helps all our seedlings to do well.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>But, as the saying goes, "along with rain, come the rainbows!" (Actually, I've never heard that saying but it seems a good segue - teehee). Here are <b>a few of our favorite Sharing Garden rainbows</b> from over the years: Enjoy!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwmN_scxuFPcowxu8HG4DFPsvuRNO1veZa8ktiw9kaHbNLqurLYZz1Zjjixu5cNcr_RDx-nCtcT8SfWj4DiIpySnZ9TPpO3FqhRHaMuG_olBFNa7ce-TuwDh9j2omU0HG2yUtLsSQVoZyEJMBxy2hTMCSb9xa0nOGUHAc5in_H1Is6rqgMcbd3GWVTfxB/s1600/GP-rainbow-Ark-B.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwmN_scxuFPcowxu8HG4DFPsvuRNO1veZa8ktiw9kaHbNLqurLYZz1Zjjixu5cNcr_RDx-nCtcT8SfWj4DiIpySnZ9TPpO3FqhRHaMuG_olBFNa7ce-TuwDh9j2omU0HG2yUtLsSQVoZyEJMBxy2hTMCSb9xa0nOGUHAc5in_H1Is6rqgMcbd3GWVTfxB/w400-h265/GP-rainbow-Ark-B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The greenhouse pictured is, fittingly, named the 'Ark'!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-x6UlMYmYtMUsFIdCljknFOOREPiAytBpRJ8u7_wb8uodGqsgJzG1_NwOHM1ue-Ueo7tntEi6F1FnoPJtc2bT9NFdYoFQ3Eoh48sFZjpAECquJrpjQnxR3goE9Ak4q-6enGOvfOH0iP_1Te-U0aRwAQ6Vmw2ZtmSHob32PSx6bmPSiofaIvrQg7doF87/s3296/GP-rainbow-Nov%202020.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2472" data-original-width="3296" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-x6UlMYmYtMUsFIdCljknFOOREPiAytBpRJ8u7_wb8uodGqsgJzG1_NwOHM1ue-Ueo7tntEi6F1FnoPJtc2bT9NFdYoFQ3Eoh48sFZjpAECquJrpjQnxR3goE9Ak4q-6enGOvfOH0iP_1Te-U0aRwAQ6Vmw2ZtmSHob32PSx6bmPSiofaIvrQg7doF87/w400-h300/GP-rainbow-Nov%202020.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture of a double rainbow is taken from our front yard, looking north. The building behind the gorgeous fall trees is the old Methodist Church which was bought by the S. Benton Food Pantry (one of the charities we donate to) and converted to a community center.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjGptt0vVYUmFe3iAkPW22nRlqxu508LhbGneBDtPGNWELyhNPA1RN4qR95HvzLClBLiwi_dS6n9lkqCYNE9hyA50PcEPDLcGtGTDgG7EF6BaLnteSBtOErXKmAB75MpY_xHETEk4Def6Tk6Jp_RVVyetTMGpHg6LiT9mx1RG0nsDG4i7EpSV-O_wzNpv/s3296/GP-rainbow-front%20house.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3296" data-original-width="2464" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjGptt0vVYUmFe3iAkPW22nRlqxu508LhbGneBDtPGNWELyhNPA1RN4qR95HvzLClBLiwi_dS6n9lkqCYNE9hyA50PcEPDLcGtGTDgG7EF6BaLnteSBtOErXKmAB75MpY_xHETEk4Def6Tk6Jp_RVVyetTMGpHg6LiT9mx1RG0nsDG4i7EpSV-O_wzNpv/w299-h400/GP-rainbow-front%20house.jpg" width="299" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's a view of the front of our house.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnTEKGVOy70A2qmgVZN_DvodegIsLJsnT1xqUMY9Xe9RMCcJ70ge_fSRERjPcnysuASuoRe1uHjUH2EDbqxYNoEiyHYnkaYbCc2OnNF-_nzc45ZtZnkD5ityET-CN6_XoP4LpLVfjQ30lkcvEcZEzNgmMJM37m1ZtETDsojJaeSrvUNvqbcoi7h0gRw3P/s2113/Chris-Llyn%20-%20rainbow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2113" data-original-width="1839" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnTEKGVOy70A2qmgVZN_DvodegIsLJsnT1xqUMY9Xe9RMCcJ70ge_fSRERjPcnysuASuoRe1uHjUH2EDbqxYNoEiyHYnkaYbCc2OnNF-_nzc45ZtZnkD5ityET-CN6_XoP4LpLVfjQ30lkcvEcZEzNgmMJM37m1ZtETDsojJaeSrvUNvqbcoi7h0gRw3P/w349-h400/Chris-Llyn%20-%20rainbow.jpg" width="349" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and here's a rainbow that appeared over the first greenhouse we built at our current site shortly after we finished it in 2011.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8NmSbf1S_HUMDBDfyYrRSJUC-BChRXreoxz905JuJCkFBRB8VdtidWon_51mF_oYxLtEub7uJtMohfTYxSp1giZbZmbeNkJrTE7TFsXf3CGqV_yDlRWM_ouG2QlskbYPEReMPFl3vgKDLsY8uhiW8rviV1aKA2-wUQ7kbvjD-js9l5D1f6zccIsXJdty/s1802/Rob%20with%20Raab.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1802" data-original-width="1439" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8NmSbf1S_HUMDBDfyYrRSJUC-BChRXreoxz905JuJCkFBRB8VdtidWon_51mF_oYxLtEub7uJtMohfTYxSp1giZbZmbeNkJrTE7TFsXf3CGqV_yDlRWM_ouG2QlskbYPEReMPFl3vgKDLsY8uhiW8rviV1aKA2-wUQ7kbvjD-js9l5D1f6zccIsXJdty/s320/Rob%20with%20Raab.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>And lastly, here are some <b>seasonally relevant posts</b> for <b>fruit and vegetable and flower gardeners</b>:<br /><br /><b>For vegetable growers, starting plants from seed:</b><br /><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/07/lettuce-from-seed-to-feed-part-1.html" target="_blank"><b>Starting lettuce</b>, cabbage, broccoli, kale <b>and other cool weather-loving crops - from seed.</b></a><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/01/starting-seedlings-in-greenhouse-raised.html" target="_blank"><br /><b>Starting Seedlings Directly in Greenhouse Raised Beds </b></a><p></p><p>If you're not growing vegetables but<b> you want to help the pollinators</b> in your area, here's a useful post: <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/05/why-growing-sunflowers-is-great-for-bees.html" target="_blank"> <b>Why growing sunflowers is great for bees</b></a>...and how to grow and process sunflowers for birdseed and sprouts <br /></p><p>If you have <b>grape vines and need some tips on pruning: </b><br /><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2022/03/best-video-on-pruning-table-grapes.html" target="_blank"> <b>Best Video on Pruning Table Grapes! </b></a><br /></p><p></p><p><b>And lastly, a profound </b><b> and moving Ted Talk </b><b>video by Peter Owen Jones: <a href="https://allthingssharing.blogspot.com/2017/11/peter-owen-jones-beyond-nations.html" target="_blank">Beyond Nations, Ownership and Competition </a></b></p>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-14744960227103725352024-03-18T16:04:00.000-07:002024-03-25T09:54:24.973-07:00Why growing sunflowers is great for bees...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
...and how to grow and process sunflowers for birdseed and sprouts.</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1pAEWw8CbwczcsKZVSF6tXzYGdSR8Kd66ZP6UHUoMW2fkEytXdii8PC0_hyT8RM4VqxgHB3RpSulaO0xiSixsptRIj796Ij8t0utmpuk55gcuEcu5H0oxPVqcMfpTxbS2iGLRJB0Xuw/s1600/autumn+beauty.squarejpg.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="950" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1pAEWw8CbwczcsKZVSF6tXzYGdSR8Kd66ZP6UHUoMW2fkEytXdii8PC0_hyT8RM4VqxgHB3RpSulaO0xiSixsptRIj796Ij8t0utmpuk55gcuEcu5H0oxPVqcMfpTxbS2iGLRJB0Xuw/s320/autumn+beauty.squarejpg.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sunflower Pollen - Pro-"bee"-otics for Bees!</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>This is a post about the varieties of sunflowers we choose to grow, how we grow them and process them for winter use.</b><br />
<b> </b> <br />
In
reading an issue of National Wildlife recently, we came across an
article about the health benefits to bees of sunflower pollen. With
populations of many bees on the decline, they need all the help they can
get! Apparently sunflower pollen reduces the infections of some
varieties of bees from two widespread parasites. Previous research had
"linked both types of parasites with slower colony growth and greater
mortality rates". Scientists compared the effects of sunflower pollen
with pollen from different types of flowers and "none of the other pollen had the
same effect".<br />
<br />
But, "while sunflower pollen may provide (the above mentioned) medicinal
benefits, it is low in protein and some amino acids," say researchers
in <i>Scientific Reports. </i>They conclude that <b>sunflowers should be
<i>supplements</i> rather than the main source of the insect's diet.</b> <b>"Bees do
best," the scientists point out, "when they have access to a variety of
flowers".</b> *Source below.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1xYaJVOs6carIMYvXJJ7-ERx4WOqNuLABa4u_OdJWgdBspU5DaaPPpgEmwCb7EhOaEYMGMAzBA4okIPXPUAf0GnwbpO7muZ7F_Sg-WzFyE3LVoc37M4QIo6F0-nyfln4si6RmnvCK1lu28RDeyEUb5E_0WScHi6DSh6N8LDRPqcQYdMglyr_TmvmbRCf/s472/Sunflowers-bioremediation.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="378" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1xYaJVOs6carIMYvXJJ7-ERx4WOqNuLABa4u_OdJWgdBspU5DaaPPpgEmwCb7EhOaEYMGMAzBA4okIPXPUAf0GnwbpO7muZ7F_Sg-WzFyE3LVoc37M4QIo6F0-nyfln4si6RmnvCK1lu28RDeyEUb5E_0WScHi6DSh6N8LDRPqcQYdMglyr_TmvmbRCf/s320/Sunflowers-bioremediation.png" width="256" /></a></div>Sunflowers are also powerful bioremediators</b>, meaning they can absorb and accumulate heavy metals and toxins from the soil, effectively detoxifying it! IN the following article it is noted that, "after both the Fukushima and Chernobyl nuclear incidents, sunflower
fields were planted across the affected areas in an effort to absorb
radiation, then were harvested and disposed of safely." Cool, huh!? (LINK:<a href="https://news.virginia.edu/content/uva-undergraduate-researcher-studies-sunflowers-power-clean-soil" target="_blank">U.Va. Undergraduate Researcher Studies Sunflowers’ Power to Clean Up Soil)</a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil78Hbha538LIq7h5-gXSilq6QxihVxVXnPpPIn0chYpCL-fBJZq3iG3c9-v9W6q4LOmMPBWufvXL1DBGBYitMk1ptdLqVCIThojM636Ndsq0TfSj-klG6xPAWtwDijCSxkVQ9Snz0_iI/s1600/Sunflowers+for+Sprout+Seeds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1031" data-original-width="1439" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil78Hbha538LIq7h5-gXSilq6QxihVxVXnPpPIn0chYpCL-fBJZq3iG3c9-v9W6q4LOmMPBWufvXL1DBGBYitMk1ptdLqVCIThojM636Ndsq0TfSj-klG6xPAWtwDijCSxkVQ9Snz0_iI/s400/Sunflowers+for+Sprout+Seeds.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A border-row of Mammoth Russian sunflowers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Sunflowers are one of our
favorites. They're beautiful and easy to grow. They provide wonderful
pollen for insects and home-grown bird-seed for our feathered friends.
And, the seeds can be used to grow delicious, nutritious sprouts for
winter greens. </blockquote>
<b>Planting Sunflowers - direct seeding:</b>
Sunflowers can be directly sown, a few weeks before the expected last
hard freeze (a light frost won't bother them). Push them into soil about
1/2" - 1" deep. If you have jays or crows in your neighborhood, you
might need to cover the starts with row-cloth or some other protector
until they're rooted as birds do love the seeds and, if they watch you
planting, they may wait till you're not looking and dig them up (we've
had this happen to us in the past). In order to avoid this problem, <b>we usually start our sunflowers in pots and transplant later.</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QX0MCwjA_cMo1sgwBBOG0E3-LATr4lxr7iCz_SKjCKOmc2MWTHMGx9jOufbXazAR0R2ghnQOtyVNWyCO1gs4dVV1e1X8kmure-4v2WCmbLCJCR_fkf_TvUOmZBlnKXC2L_gD-QRUdDk/s1600/a-sunflower+planter1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="955" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QX0MCwjA_cMo1sgwBBOG0E3-LATr4lxr7iCz_SKjCKOmc2MWTHMGx9jOufbXazAR0R2ghnQOtyVNWyCO1gs4dVV1e1X8kmure-4v2WCmbLCJCR_fkf_TvUOmZBlnKXC2L_gD-QRUdDk/s320/a-sunflower+planter1.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We've
had young children help us plant large patches of sunflowers. It's a
fun garden activity that's hard to get wrong. You may need to thin out
your patch after they germinate so each plant has enough room to grow
(3'- 4' between each plant on the tall varieties!).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Planting Sunflowers - transplanting from pots:</b> We usually start our sunflowers in pots and transplant them out. This way they can have a strong head start. We plant <i>two seeds</i> in each 3" pot, <i>at opposite corners</i>
and, after they germinate, either pinch one off, or carefully re-pot
them so there's just one plant in each pot. Plant seeds about 1/2" deep.
If you're going to divide and re-pot, don't wait too long as sunflowers
have extensive root-systems and you risk damaging the plant if the two
starts' roots become intertwined. Keep plants in a place protected from
wind and full sun for a few days while they adjust to their new pots.<br />
<br />
<b>When you are ready to transplant outside</b>,
put plants outside your greenhouse for 5-10 days so plants are
"hardened-off by exposure to wind and cooler nights before you put them
in the ground.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5QKZCLroz9Xl5FUV3On6QLc20HQUuv_1DS96_ykewgZ4GUMpefm_84XMIcN91E-OJqthtG1Ycm5nft0OsJX5CMMy49-V1Jl7G03ujHDp4tzAc-E2mj_RRjSFeyRliX_tU7iodQGYYyo/s1600/GH-summer+starts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5QKZCLroz9Xl5FUV3On6QLc20HQUuv_1DS96_ykewgZ4GUMpefm_84XMIcN91E-OJqthtG1Ycm5nft0OsJX5CMMy49-V1Jl7G03ujHDp4tzAc-E2mj_RRjSFeyRliX_tU7iodQGYYyo/s400/GH-summer+starts.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plant 'starts' in the greenhouse. Zucchini plants in foreground.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The tall varieties of sunflowers we grow need <i>full-sun, wide spacing</i> (3'-4' between each plant!) <i>strong staking - </i>so they don't fall over and <i>shouldn't be over-watered.</i><br />
<br />
<b>Placement: </b>If you plant a whole row of
them, keep in mind that they will shade smaller plants, and block
overhead sprinklers for watering. We almost always plant ours along the
edges of garden beds so they get watered along with our other crops.<br />
<br />
<b>Watering: </b>Sunflowers, if planted early enough that they
can follow the water-table downwards through the summer, they can do
well without much supplemental watering. Beware of over-watering as they can grow too fast, get top-heavy and fall over.<br />
<br />
<b>Staking: </b>The tall varieties of sunflowers will almost certainly need staking.<br />
<br />
Sometimes we'll <b>drive an individual stake</b>
in the ground next to them; a 4'-6' metal stake is best. Drive it deep
into the ground. Tie sunflowers to stakes with cotton strips.<br />
<br />
Sometimes we'll <b>erect a bamboo tri-pod</b> , stake it and tie two, to three sunflowers
to each one.<br />
<br />
We've also grown sunflowers in <b>long rows between tall stakes with heavy wire run between them</b>. Attach wires at 3' and 6' heights and tie sunflowers to them with cotton strips.<br />
<br />
Sunflowers can also be <b>tied to fences with cotton strips</b> to keep them from toppling. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzp59tDsJhwz6hYgHErcCmSrdO9vDseKNxDOfRb1oCZX5r6zW09skkDBszLMd7Zl_zo-U7MGfmXfkg4vHjmxLFb7ahTXUlw_UmVoh-4hpqNPZOg9noHQXM7yB4aRIMG-bsNTesDGpkyM/s1600/cindy--bean+trellis.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1571" data-original-width="1600" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzp59tDsJhwz6hYgHErcCmSrdO9vDseKNxDOfRb1oCZX5r6zW09skkDBszLMd7Zl_zo-U7MGfmXfkg4vHjmxLFb7ahTXUlw_UmVoh-4hpqNPZOg9noHQXM7yB4aRIMG-bsNTesDGpkyM/s400/cindy--bean+trellis.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This
is a trellis we made by stretching strong wire between two fence posts.
Here, Cindy is tying up bamboo poles to trellis bean-plants but this
same kind of trellis would work for a row of sunflowers. For sunflowers, stretch two wires; one at about three-feet above the ground, and the other at about 6'. Tie plants to wires with cotton strips. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeq_k_EPcBrH8nDMYje7etjtCg_vKBrG9GFw8uf_bGL9rzP16bkyfx8x8ZlpmlIs1H4cANUyPZzsS1snLfUKgdFhXblKFiHc9pehljZKGQ1kr_jdNijmD1KXIkfP6V9B0Y4BYcPzcuTUE/s1600/GP-tipi-mammoth-russian+sunflower.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeq_k_EPcBrH8nDMYje7etjtCg_vKBrG9GFw8uf_bGL9rzP16bkyfx8x8ZlpmlIs1H4cANUyPZzsS1snLfUKgdFhXblKFiHc9pehljZKGQ1kr_jdNijmD1KXIkfP6V9B0Y4BYcPzcuTUE/s400/GP-tipi-mammoth-russian+sunflower.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A
bean-tipi (with scarlet-runner beans) and Mammoth Russian sunflowers
growing beside it. They are each tied to a separate 4-foot wooden stake.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Varieties of sunflowers we like:</b> Most years we just grow two varieties of sunflowers:<b> Mammoth Russians and Autumn Beauties.</b> The <b>Mammoth Russians</b>
make good bird-seed for bluejays and other large seed-eating birds, and
they are also great for growing sprouts, a delicious and nutritious
source of winter "greens" (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/05/growing-sunflower-sprouts.html" target="_blank">LINK</a>
to post on growing sunflowers sprouts). They can get extremely large
(10' or higher) and will usually require staking so they don't topple in
the wind when their heads are heavy with seed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfxwHidDk1ZX_SK9mKoUnTUTXKikyANirybQiNfw7X_RDX_VboxOvPqpT0jtO5ScZnu_gYpHpGYXmFUG1Wm0yD-UtOz84GLEDZ50d5yKD7T06IffbDilohOmAbUrGlJnku6J46mqNwfY/s1600/v-Chris-sunflower-CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1444" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfxwHidDk1ZX_SK9mKoUnTUTXKikyANirybQiNfw7X_RDX_VboxOvPqpT0jtO5ScZnu_gYpHpGYXmFUG1Wm0yD-UtOz84GLEDZ50d5yKD7T06IffbDilohOmAbUrGlJnku6J46mqNwfY/s400/v-Chris-sunflower-CU.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mammoth Russian sunflowers can grow <i>huge</i>! You can see why it's important to stake them so the don't fall over when they're heads are full of ripe seeds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Autumn Beauties</b> also make great bird-seed for
smaller seed-eaters and their range of colors from yellow through orange
to a russet-brown make a beautiful border "hedge". They have many heads
on one plant that ripen over the course of the season and though their
individual flower-heads are quite a bit smaller than Mammoth Russians
(6" vs 12" - or more) the plants themselves can get as tall as the
Mammoths and will also require staking. They too need three to four feet
between each plant. Autumn Beauties also <i>make great cut flowers</i> if you have a heavy, deep vase but beware, they drop a lot of yellow pollen on whatever surface they rest upon. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDu1Kz5Be-8-h8Qj6ZImDVmXmWuAGOxL-gOZ7Vj9qWsU7P4gPktvDKWgpOhq4UiVO4vEm6sVjKTJV_22CMq_1F3tYaHPWeeSNIIXF2dZ-LM19aDYHl31CMbv2RyqlMvY7rGcK3sZFU-g/s1600/autumn+beaty1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="1600" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDu1Kz5Be-8-h8Qj6ZImDVmXmWuAGOxL-gOZ7Vj9qWsU7P4gPktvDKWgpOhq4UiVO4vEm6sVjKTJV_22CMq_1F3tYaHPWeeSNIIXF2dZ-LM19aDYHl31CMbv2RyqlMvY7rGcK3sZFU-g/s400/autumn+beaty1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn Beauty sunflowers...So beautiful against a blue, autumn sky! A favorite for bees and birds alike.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Saving seed: </b><b>Sunflowers easily cross pollinate.</b> If you want to save seed to
plant <i>next year's </i>sunflowers, be aware that they are quite prone to
cross-pollinating with other varieties. So, if you were to grow both
Mammoth Russians and Autumn Beauties nearby to each other, the seed you
save would have a high probability of being a mix of the two varieties.
Though we've had good luck with growing pure Mammoth Russian seed, the
Autumn Beauties (even if they don't cross with other varieties) tend to
become less colorful with each generation. For these reasons, <b>we usually
just buy fresh seed each year.</b><br />
<br />
<b>When to harvest seed:</b>
If you're just growing the flowers for their beauty and you don't care
about saving the seed, you can leave them standing for as long as you
like, well into the winter. Birds enjoy them for winter perches and will
happily eat the seeds right off the heads. But, if you wish to save
seed to feed them later in the winter when natural forage is harder to
find, here's how to do it:<br />
<br />
<b>Processing the seed</b>:
As autumn approaches, it is important to regularly monitor the ripeness
of the seed. Sunflowers ripen from the edges in towards the center.
Periodically pull a seed out and crack it open to see if the seed inside
is fully formed. Notice if the birds are starting to eat them. If the
birds are starting to eat them but they're still not ripe most of the
way to the center, we sometimes cover the heads with a paper sack or a
mesh onion-bag.The onion-bag is preferable because it allows the
pollinators to continue to have access to the less-ripe seeds and more
of them will be pollinated. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7M5Xwyw5pIL5UNgP-4_Ui5qHcv-zwgVPjtvXOBr6FuaD16fWFZ6G08zVMDaV5CqTyR0LefoBrREfwblhyphenhyphenPhHzJHgoEY4UQlqMz0AfZQCT5pA5A22APxDecPIt_nze57yU2HnJ9fpqfM/s1600/IMG_0486+save+seed+plant.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7M5Xwyw5pIL5UNgP-4_Ui5qHcv-zwgVPjtvXOBr6FuaD16fWFZ6G08zVMDaV5CqTyR0LefoBrREfwblhyphenhyphenPhHzJHgoEY4UQlqMz0AfZQCT5pA5A22APxDecPIt_nze57yU2HnJ9fpqfM/s400/IMG_0486+save+seed+plant.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onion-bags
are great to protect seeds you're saving from being eaten by wild-life,
or fruit from being harvested before the seeds are ripe. (Pictured:
green-peppers ripening for seed).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Processing Autumn Beauties:</b> Once the seeds are
ripe, we cut the heads off and lay them on shelves in our greenhouse
and turn them up-side-down or cover them with screens (to keep the birds
from getting to them). We leave the Autumn Beauty heads to dry
completely without removing the seeds. Then, over the course of the
winter we place the dried heads outside for the birds to enjoy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Zp6CnpP7g9ew6MVjNCW5l_kOodWHpsU1rzBf9g8yF4B28bMx5AytHwRlRe3oEeo3t9Coq9437oOAHPbxHyhfT7hb4y4Wot7tQ7k0kOw-5FsiZbvymH7Z0Clr9Q65HGtAq02WNvnc3bs/s1600/Jim-Llyn-sunflowers.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1117" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Zp6CnpP7g9ew6MVjNCW5l_kOodWHpsU1rzBf9g8yF4B28bMx5AytHwRlRe3oEeo3t9Coq9437oOAHPbxHyhfT7hb4y4Wot7tQ7k0kOw-5FsiZbvymH7Z0Clr9Q65HGtAq02WNvnc3bs/s400/Jim-Llyn-sunflowers.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llyn, laying Autumn Beauty sunflower heads face-down (to protect from birds) to dry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Processing </b><b>Mammoth Russians: </b>The
Mammoth Russian seeds we remove right away. This is easier to do before
the heads dry. Remove the ripe seeds by rubbing them free with your
thumbs. We usually use gloves as it can be a bit rough on the thumbs!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3WUyxkbYWXIna4qc2QFpK8ywJP4Mb29cWtCw8rP53-fl8IhvfNtOJI5Kf3EcV7aDbLM-lVCfy1gD8AoHxDlPE4oj547pEa1uIdhcLPxvIzi78xkn-4j00OTyUnum1EAKOFthQ3m8q6U/s1600/sun-hands1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3WUyxkbYWXIna4qc2QFpK8ywJP4Mb29cWtCw8rP53-fl8IhvfNtOJI5Kf3EcV7aDbLM-lVCfy1gD8AoHxDlPE4oj547pEa1uIdhcLPxvIzi78xkn-4j00OTyUnum1EAKOFthQ3m8q6U/s320/sun-hands1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To remove seeds from head, use your thumbs to rub them into a tray.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another reason to process the seed soon after harvest is that the <b>seeds can mold </b>due
to the high moisture content of the flower heads. If it will be awhile
before we can process them, we often cut off the fleshy backs of the
flowers heads. By the way, this is a very relaxing process and a
favorite autumn task for share-givers (volunteers) to enjoy while
sitting around in the shade at the end of a busy morning out in the
gardens.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIxEhGeU_Vw3YrRFtoYR4vSVrVOb3s6dclnzwGSzNoWDYAcO10Vz3riTQNGuQhAQWu_4lOEDmX8Oez54yY-G-rQai39du1x6H_8RHx7lR9JZHXCM5S3HtQhA7WOCOa7r80CLSihWSSg8/s1600/v-rook-eliza-sunflowers.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIxEhGeU_Vw3YrRFtoYR4vSVrVOb3s6dclnzwGSzNoWDYAcO10Vz3riTQNGuQhAQWu_4lOEDmX8Oez54yY-G-rQai39du1x6H_8RHx7lR9JZHXCM5S3HtQhA7WOCOa7r80CLSihWSSg8/s400/v-rook-eliza-sunflowers.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Processing sunflower seeds is a favorite autumn task. (Crates of Delicata squash in the background.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtlGCJyYUdu5l8jJKZkj0dbZAiKdPP0lWysudAizlDJWVhCMTDhlVcUKeyRUHGv3HxesmMPvGnYVOkKl7mbHz1TNrVU181yLKxMS6MpOF3fXkM8o_MY9H75iHR3_U7dtwBc-9yU-FB-MI/s1600/A-dustin-seeds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1405" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtlGCJyYUdu5l8jJKZkj0dbZAiKdPP0lWysudAizlDJWVhCMTDhlVcUKeyRUHGv3HxesmMPvGnYVOkKl7mbHz1TNrVU181yLKxMS6MpOF3fXkM8o_MY9H75iHR3_U7dtwBc-9yU-FB-MI/s400/A-dustin-seeds.jpg" width="351" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even young people enjoy this quiet meditative task.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Mammoth Russian seeds <b>will almost certainly need more drying</b> after they've been removed from the flower head. <b>Be sure they are thoroughly dry before storage or they will mold and be ruined. </b>Small
quantities can be dried in a food-dehydrator. If the air is not too
humid in your greenhouse at time of harvest, spread the seeds on screens
or in shallow card-board boxes but be sure to protect them from birds
and rodents while they dry with screens on top too. We've also put the
seeds into <i>shallow</i> baskets and dried them on shelves above our wood-stove. <br />
<br />
<b>Feeding the birds: Autumn Beauties: </b>Just put whole heads out on your table-feeders, or string them on a wire between two posts or trees.<br />
<br />
<b>Mammoth Russians:</b>
We buy millet in the bulk-food section and mix it with the sunflower
seeds and put it on a table-feeder or directly on the ground.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcr6LTB62_7t7VwOYIdqCdF6SCuwu0P8ZfUYtAJ_BZlHyH7ozr-2vROzcxemh0RxKGf6itKAdEJRc5-O5J81Fp63hqbpHR6sWdpuQ681mt_uLmx6H4YJUw3_nU_tjQzSk5gViQ1DzCWBE/s1600/sunflowers_1920x1200_wallpaper_Animals_Birds_HD_1920x1200.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="1284" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcr6LTB62_7t7VwOYIdqCdF6SCuwu0P8ZfUYtAJ_BZlHyH7ozr-2vROzcxemh0RxKGf6itKAdEJRc5-O5J81Fp63hqbpHR6sWdpuQ681mt_uLmx6H4YJUw3_nU_tjQzSk5gViQ1DzCWBE/s400/sunflowers_1920x1200_wallpaper_Animals_Birds_HD_1920x1200.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chickadees <i>love</i> sunflower seeds! <br />
(Photo credit: www.wallpaperup.com/45606/sunflowers_1920x1200_wallpaper_Animals_Birds)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Growing your own sprouts:</b> <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/05/growing-sunflower-sprouts.html" target="_blank">Here is a post</a> we wrote about growing your own sunflower sprouts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZz1AfWIMYyP8PeUomAnpjxaDioQMQVmsQstSA1N2gE_pIUqERLNSh-isFM1PTSECd-x3DtOiPdr3Anxhc938af2msx7QSMW8bdbz8-vhp9WJ0mlNTwCViYhGs9JKmz9WwPIcQlhlmNCA/s1600/a-sprout.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="169" data-original-width="240" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZz1AfWIMYyP8PeUomAnpjxaDioQMQVmsQstSA1N2gE_pIUqERLNSh-isFM1PTSECd-x3DtOiPdr3Anxhc938af2msx7QSMW8bdbz8-vhp9WJ0mlNTwCViYhGs9JKmz9WwPIcQlhlmNCA/s400/a-sprout.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunflower
sprouts for winter "greens". You'll need a sunny window or greenhouse
but their delicious, sweet, nutty taste and high nutrient-content are
worth it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Herbicide contamination:</b> Sunflowers are very susceptible to certain herbicides (<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/06/herbicide-contamination.html" target="_blank">see our post</a> </b>about herbicide contamination from un-composted horse manure).<br />
<br />
<b>Hopefully this post will inspire you to add some sunflowers to your summer garden.</b> These glorious plants have given us much pleasure and they're sure to please you too! </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Though this farmer in Scotland is growing sunflowers too far north for them to set seed, his 250,000 plants must produce an incredible source of food for all the pollinators in his area! <b><a href="https://www.goodnewsnetwork.org/scottish-farmer-grew-quarter-million-sunflowers-to-create-a-massive-trail/" target="_blank">LINK: Farmer Creates Massive Sunflower Trail Growing 250,000 in a Pattern Out in His Fields</a></b><br />
<br />
* Source: National Wildlife - Feb/March 2019, p 8.</div>
ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-23134453924989611662024-03-13T14:25:00.000-07:002024-03-19T12:16:28.264-07:00Starting Seedlings Directly in Greenhouse Raised Beds<p><b>Update: January 2024</b>: We had such good results from this experiment last year that we've already started some seeds this year. Every year is different but we hope to have bounteous, early crops to show for our efforts again this spring.<br /></p><p><b>(originally published - May 2023). </b>Last year (2022) we experimented with starting seedlings, to be transplanted to other beds, right in our greenhouse raised beds. This worked quite well for several crops including: lettuce, broccoli, kale, collards, onions and cabbage. They are all plants that transplant easily and will germinate in relatively cool soil. These seedlings were started in rows with seeds planted every 1/2" or so.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUr2TONrQz1FW2ODMpCUEQP6k3WdmPJt9qXgXBfUFwHZF-34hX4wZBZtVfGCEpo3YKBE-gY2WO_Re1xNQPTIzgpaUiIzMvLMfDy4KPEwtmW5EvpBGM8qEu0xOpHMQEUPW4R09xq9jWC2xK00Q1MKnNQ2Yokzl0uDi7DMejpaibitxmZfmSMW9qKadong/s2050/GP-seedlings-GH-CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2050" data-original-width="1671" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUr2TONrQz1FW2ODMpCUEQP6k3WdmPJt9qXgXBfUFwHZF-34hX4wZBZtVfGCEpo3YKBE-gY2WO_Re1xNQPTIzgpaUiIzMvLMfDy4KPEwtmW5EvpBGM8qEu0xOpHMQEUPW4R09xq9jWC2xK00Q1MKnNQ2Yokzl0uDi7DMejpaibitxmZfmSMW9qKadong/w326-h400/GP-seedlings-GH-CU.jpg" width="326" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris starting seeds directly in greenhouse raised beds.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>The advantage</b> of this, over starting seeds in<b> tofu-containers </b>(below)<b> (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/05/re-purposing-things.html" target="_blank">LINK</a>) </b>and "potting them up" to larger six-packs or pots is that it's easier to keep the seedlings uniformly watered and their roots are less likely to get overcrowded. <b>The disadvantage</b> is that, without a bottom-source of heat (electric mats), heat-loving plants like peppers or tomatoes may not germinate in the cooler soil. So, we'll still use heat mats for them.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348106149748106834" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_gVVqIQ04uw0/SjhKNSzRZlI/AAAAAAAAAQc/eYBiviWgt_E/w400-h300/DSC00242.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="400" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seedling
starts in tofu containers. We drill holes in the bottom for drainage.
This is the way we used to start <i>all</i> our seedlings. These are then potted-up into larger pots.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8EeBOk1OPAhC_zCj0fJhwiLfAs4z2CuqBEp5mODpp69mnK77OBg9fcoCrRk4dMLjbXjXlZ27U8Uy4vVTkW8jX0qeJvJVYycJW8J9kLWlEIc3v1IvLPadgwx1IF88dK2ENfcOONK9dLkE5IWywR5awb48fii69XVGf2Wi_cE_-vUS7SKjSDrfNae35A/s2893/HV.grow%20starts%20in%20beds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2893" data-original-width="2344" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8EeBOk1OPAhC_zCj0fJhwiLfAs4z2CuqBEp5mODpp69mnK77OBg9fcoCrRk4dMLjbXjXlZ27U8Uy4vVTkW8jX0qeJvJVYycJW8J9kLWlEIc3v1IvLPadgwx1IF88dK2ENfcOONK9dLkE5IWywR5awb48fii69XVGf2Wi_cE_-vUS7SKjSDrfNae35A/s320/HV.grow%20starts%20in%20beds.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With our new method, as long as the soil is warm enough, we save time and effort and the roots of the seedlings have much more room to grow than if they were in tofu containers. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Once the seedlings germinated, and grew large enough, we carefully
transplanted them into larger pots, or directly into another
greenhouse-raised bed.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5XoF8nutGqtiB_ly9sulE7M75ee9MdE_YwG4idN9tnHy2h9BTJKdPr_gedvYfOjMI-wFFfU8L8a_ISwMoVPJqbA7oo7Dr7nsuP_ASd9h1Uv7LkSCg61r6SJW9BhJn-66ekVGT6WxnjQBRRQXmnYLmRt-FpAQ50WxAaS3OYaTfD78S-fbG4KEXnpatA/s1947/GP-lettuce%20starts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1615" data-original-width="1947" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5XoF8nutGqtiB_ly9sulE7M75ee9MdE_YwG4idN9tnHy2h9BTJKdPr_gedvYfOjMI-wFFfU8L8a_ISwMoVPJqbA7oo7Dr7nsuP_ASd9h1Uv7LkSCg61r6SJW9BhJn-66ekVGT6WxnjQBRRQXmnYLmRt-FpAQ50WxAaS3OYaTfD78S-fbG4KEXnpatA/s320/GP-lettuce%20starts.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lettuce plants started in greenhouse raised beds and transplanted to another raised bed to grow to maturity,<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p>Over the years, our raised bed soil has become a perfect medium for seed-starting. We can use it to fill pots and transplant starts into those pots to grow them out for later transplanting outside:<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wau2g-LtiwGbPzU6J9ZRsVQyABlsJSxEBn3xJzQL3QuoBe3bl6CR_0duJyP-dfTufPbruky6UtY9Gp2Z3w88uXtLwbDkODwWmyQXhx6XU7MDx20wUIuWv0mdK-8gcVqAs6MmrEpxGxSh89BWnqvwX5w8e1RAUYomihpDqLOu7IbZXLyGNlOFm62-gQ/s2404/HV.mixing%20soil%20in%20beds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2404" data-original-width="2401" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wau2g-LtiwGbPzU6J9ZRsVQyABlsJSxEBn3xJzQL3QuoBe3bl6CR_0duJyP-dfTufPbruky6UtY9Gp2Z3w88uXtLwbDkODwWmyQXhx6XU7MDx20wUIuWv0mdK-8gcVqAs6MmrEpxGxSh89BWnqvwX5w8e1RAUYomihpDqLOu7IbZXLyGNlOFm62-gQ/s320/HV.mixing%20soil%20in%20beds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our beautiful soil. Every year we supplement it with <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/10/making-your-own-veganic-potting-soil-in.html" target="_blank">compost created in the paths</a></b> between the raised beds, a sprinkling of <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/coffee-grounds-and-wood-ash-for-soil.html" target="_blank">wood-ash and coffee grounds</a></b> and, in recent years we've added perlite too to aid in water retention.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSemQSK7wNEuGk_uHPgGgBflhxKECfj_910tCgYB9OeLX5_EDQJOU5qyXWb_o_3G2aILyozAD5oleB97VXHrHXdaqm5bt2mcW3eA9b1Fw1aqjAf8v9DBGY-e5VGnvXsGeJCpfBZSuvwI-_p-01HQmmD9OLqutJchl28NPkcZSNx38gE9mvJE4zazsYDw/s2427/HV-brocolli%20starts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1903" data-original-width="2427" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSemQSK7wNEuGk_uHPgGgBflhxKECfj_910tCgYB9OeLX5_EDQJOU5qyXWb_o_3G2aILyozAD5oleB97VXHrHXdaqm5bt2mcW3eA9b1Fw1aqjAf8v9DBGY-e5VGnvXsGeJCpfBZSuvwI-_p-01HQmmD9OLqutJchl28NPkcZSNx38gE9mvJE4zazsYDw/w400-h314/HV-brocolli%20starts.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful, healthy broccoli plants, started from seed in raised beds and transplanted into pots using soil from our raised beds.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b><i>This</i> year, we are taking this experiment one step further.</b> Chris decided to see if he could germinate some of the same kinds of seedlings, using this same method but in <i>mid-January. </i>(This is about a month earlier than what's suggested in our local planting guides!) So far, things are looking good.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVM8nAVJIaNbid6hl2GyICPw2HIErfH7YTXOsce5Q1FOn43vjidDyiB4-2VvvtC-9zQccLqUsCm_YA4Prv8fSHvclb7NP04hcBNwiygDnXXZPvLqyHsJke-wCniQTXE-RFKm4uL-vUbpeur9N3kQnSqPWadWcWoj2za-oowsV_jSal1pxoc2WoSSv7g/s3264/GP-seedlings-january.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVM8nAVJIaNbid6hl2GyICPw2HIErfH7YTXOsce5Q1FOn43vjidDyiB4-2VvvtC-9zQccLqUsCm_YA4Prv8fSHvclb7NP04hcBNwiygDnXXZPvLqyHsJke-wCniQTXE-RFKm4uL-vUbpeur9N3kQnSqPWadWcWoj2za-oowsV_jSal1pxoc2WoSSv7g/w300-h400/GP-seedlings-january.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris planting seeds on January 13, 2023. He planted: three kinds of lettuce, bunching onions, Sweet Spanish, Burgundy Red and Cippolini onions, Toscana kale, chard and arugula.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQHs26frTdDIgXMTXSumQk7Ei4gjWUgaO5C6Z-eTwziCdMkFdpdIH228lK8-Crfes_NWIBMxO_A-khHqpkpoWKgbC0ZS8i_F_J4M0MeXyU7Ta9rTe5qe4Vg2Jmu5-uhOxptdrItWOvd-ZIcRkB-prWk_t2rpHIX_PoLMh69eocHNaJEFxyg9P5E1uqQ/s3264/GP-seedlings-plastic%20for%20heat.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQHs26frTdDIgXMTXSumQk7Ei4gjWUgaO5C6Z-eTwziCdMkFdpdIH228lK8-Crfes_NWIBMxO_A-khHqpkpoWKgbC0ZS8i_F_J4M0MeXyU7Ta9rTe5qe4Vg2Jmu5-uhOxptdrItWOvd-ZIcRkB-prWk_t2rpHIX_PoLMh69eocHNaJEFxyg9P5E1uqQ/w300-h400/GP-seedlings-plastic%20for%20heat.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Because we're regularly getting nighttime temperatures in the low 30'S F and high, daytime temps have been in the 40's to 50's, Chris experimented by putting black plastic bags over the seedlings for several days before they emerged above ground. This raises the soil's temperature whenever the sun is out, and holds the heat in at night. Seeds need a minimum temperature to sprout but don't need light until their first leaves emerge from the ground.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2aLI67LyX9QrJdNRI66rwJeaV5fzu16UZEWTKeoCnPr-Owvq06OJzljZb4Jx21X_G7pLvdWTxENJpdBPmLo893U-0t1AGUp7LrqgrJ2cCBqT-4yiQ9RyaSI7vazpjl4ifuwiSA8fhbOqWq5sJEmCDL-5rFdvLK2qSKV0xYXZ23BPNe5BGTy9PKZN-rQ/s1881/GP-seedlings-arugula.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1881" data-original-width="1781" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2aLI67LyX9QrJdNRI66rwJeaV5fzu16UZEWTKeoCnPr-Owvq06OJzljZb4Jx21X_G7pLvdWTxENJpdBPmLo893U-0t1AGUp7LrqgrJ2cCBqT-4yiQ9RyaSI7vazpjl4ifuwiSA8fhbOqWq5sJEmCDL-5rFdvLK2qSKV0xYXZ23BPNe5BGTy9PKZN-rQ/w302-h320/GP-seedlings-arugula.jpg" width="302" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arugula seedlings (from seed we saved ourselves!) emerged after just five days. Chris checked the seedlings daily and, as soon as the first leaves began to show he removed the black plastic. The lettuce-seedlings emerged just a few days later. (As of January 25, everything has germinated except the onions and the
chard. Either the soil isn't warm enough or the seed isn't viable. We
shall try and plant them again and either wait till the soil is warmer,
or use heat mats for bottom heat.)</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0yaxcb-pBcUW1LmbL_GfHPh7WPY9IcQZDJnXr2hqvrDw-41JyZ5PcaCUYFYRT_OhE79e2NhfKDfvcvn46bDa-E2v6dZ7_kRxE0ZtyDTqBx_UZQZNwJjqDHSF2iMD1Idz7KtO_cWJYiaulSGu_ooKQl_Mtwy7kmSkcbGu0qacWgMhsDEKw11zUHP9Ew/s3264/GP-seedlings-GH-plastic.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0yaxcb-pBcUW1LmbL_GfHPh7WPY9IcQZDJnXr2hqvrDw-41JyZ5PcaCUYFYRT_OhE79e2NhfKDfvcvn46bDa-E2v6dZ7_kRxE0ZtyDTqBx_UZQZNwJjqDHSF2iMD1Idz7KtO_cWJYiaulSGu_ooKQl_Mtwy7kmSkcbGu0qacWgMhsDEKw11zUHP9Ew/w300-h400/GP-seedlings-GH-plastic.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once up, the seedlings need light but also appreciate protection from cold nights. Here we've covered them with <b>re-purposed plastic lids found at the recycling center</b>! </td></tr></tbody></table><p>So far, our early-planting experiment seems to be working well. It's always a gamble getting seeds started this early but, since we have plenty of seed, if even a fraction of the plants grow to maturity, it will be worth it.</p><p><b>Update - May 2023:</b> Here are some pics for how these experiments in early seed-starting in raised beds have fared...</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNlH_q92YoGe90CDfC7Y23qVkLbUDLYueGQhkG4DWgBz2Eg0sDr6jXtMf_y3hH7mjWbltRxeZ2ByytJmcqiDMwHUL2B4advGydtD0ubq_0iMvc-cYg6lDfuecbZ6o0KsmG5D1AeEbQ2DfTadT2pxrgCwgPrJQm7xIyoXoBkDJJAe_dBNspQ3kZfFRHw/s3264/GP.lettuce-4.17.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNlH_q92YoGe90CDfC7Y23qVkLbUDLYueGQhkG4DWgBz2Eg0sDr6jXtMf_y3hH7mjWbltRxeZ2ByytJmcqiDMwHUL2B4advGydtD0ubq_0iMvc-cYg6lDfuecbZ6o0KsmG5D1AeEbQ2DfTadT2pxrgCwgPrJQm7xIyoXoBkDJJAe_dBNspQ3kZfFRHw/w300-h400/GP.lettuce-4.17.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This lettuce was all started from seed in raised bed
'nurseries' as described above; then transplanted at proper spacing to
mature. These lettuce seedlings were started in mid-January. We began eating individual leaves off the heads beginning in March which
provided plenty of these fresh greens for us and our volunteers. Here, April 17th, Chris is seen selectively harvesting alternate heads to share at the Food Bank (so the remaining heads have more room to grow). <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK7hqekM3O3KAXoiC0vCMdoX4pHTx1mqIrD8xaYDfiYf1QIKK0wl3S73Q9dKqyKk-1U4p1M6Jl-KYGRMbrUc8I4pg_CUlJ6YTA5gTDrsJCF6-AO4DBM2Ub-3rRDhIrTlKnWZRcSJapEP3F6jDFeArN6dNCWGX8q9DDfrgyrE-SqtlkMj6pwjhFjmLTQ/s2482/GP.onions.potato.lettuce-4.24.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2482" data-original-width="2232" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK7hqekM3O3KAXoiC0vCMdoX4pHTx1mqIrD8xaYDfiYf1QIKK0wl3S73Q9dKqyKk-1U4p1M6Jl-KYGRMbrUc8I4pg_CUlJ6YTA5gTDrsJCF6-AO4DBM2Ub-3rRDhIrTlKnWZRcSJapEP3F6jDFeArN6dNCWGX8q9DDfrgyrE-SqtlkMj6pwjhFjmLTQ/s320/GP.onions.potato.lettuce-4.24.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is a picture of the same bed on April 24th. That's 'Slo-bolt' lettuce on the left, potato leaves beginning to appear in the center row and Chris planting Sweet Spanish onions on the right.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO2RsOvfdR9iIRdG-W54lapHY4TEyrwVhxfkNupKBQ9MRh-K4fpnSTmvwivOLLHMiw1D8i3qDjVa3qlKIZvaSPGwN3DYILiVesfAJXshffNrcQd7N4dLn1xiP8ukZgc0KLeIA50_xjCsRYmTO6dQROdPworU6ixVvkY6FnYrTPjqktEw-TQsGNRcUog/s3264/GP.lettuce%20harvest-4.25.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO2RsOvfdR9iIRdG-W54lapHY4TEyrwVhxfkNupKBQ9MRh-K4fpnSTmvwivOLLHMiw1D8i3qDjVa3qlKIZvaSPGwN3DYILiVesfAJXshffNrcQd7N4dLn1xiP8ukZgc0KLeIA50_xjCsRYmTO6dQROdPworU6ixVvkY6FnYrTPjqktEw-TQsGNRcUog/w300-h400/GP.lettuce%20harvest-4.25.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here are two boxes of lettuce, harvested and ready to be donated, in front of our Ark greenhouse. As of early May, the two greenhouses have yielded over 60 pounds of the most beautiful, tender, tasty lettuce imaginable! A successful experiment, wouldn't you say!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-20056678717956189962024-03-07T17:27:00.000-08:002024-03-19T12:22:47.809-07:00Best Video on Pruning Table Grapes!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIEKVFuYyGalmQyeuuXqdo8cWMhkjHZyPe22J7biPnNqll_PExmK_CjHLXXq0GBNOxYhG-j0VKGbE8JSwEOaTMDQ3ObEXH6X9Yko8CHVRxoOib9qDZUcaa_gEWUNV0CEPHv-5Ch5IL4JCReeGDRCtxGvk_nzR5bG6TFLO48ZrDuf2P3Jt4hqj8WYNAKw=s1948" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1948" data-original-width="1947" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIEKVFuYyGalmQyeuuXqdo8cWMhkjHZyPe22J7biPnNqll_PExmK_CjHLXXq0GBNOxYhG-j0VKGbE8JSwEOaTMDQ3ObEXH6X9Yko8CHVRxoOib9qDZUcaa_gEWUNV0CEPHv-5Ch5IL4JCReeGDRCtxGvk_nzR5bG6TFLO48ZrDuf2P3Jt4hqj8WYNAKw=w200-h200" width="200" /></a></div>Here is the best video I've found on pruning table grapes (and I've watched a lot!). I was able to watch this video and head straight for our vineyard of 36 plants and confidently prune them for what I <i>hope</i> will be our most productive year yet while preparing them to be productive for <i>next </i>year as well.<br /><p></p><p> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzUk1975MEw" target="_blank">Grape Vine Pruning Made Easy! (Table Grapes) Using The Double Guyot Method</a></p><p><b><u>Update - February 2024:</u></b> We followed the method outlined in the video above for our grape vines in 2023 with <b>excellent results</b>. <br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VAoPpv8flRhxdxBc2_9S4vx8S8VRgxWKmk0Ov0Vi6XuaIGtSMgeAceR8F-UwomnaoDEWmqMnvriJVmWIDZ_sUpIHtWrf-xiBt6UnCUKl_-akf-l7UcjYkmQPMQzH2yyALJhvO-LkCL15DhQY-Cob_EN3VquG_hgcPEpcnCHDRXXQl5tHA9lWfDlfjNCC/s2799/GP-grapes.Apr%202022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2002" data-original-width="2799" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VAoPpv8flRhxdxBc2_9S4vx8S8VRgxWKmk0Ov0Vi6XuaIGtSMgeAceR8F-UwomnaoDEWmqMnvriJVmWIDZ_sUpIHtWrf-xiBt6UnCUKl_-akf-l7UcjYkmQPMQzH2yyALJhvO-LkCL15DhQY-Cob_EN3VquG_hgcPEpcnCHDRXXQl5tHA9lWfDlfjNCC/w400-h286/GP-grapes.Apr%202022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the 36 grape vines we grow...after pruning.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>In previous years, we had experimented with different methods of pruning. Our plants looked a lot like his did at the beginning of the video. Our theory was: the more fruit spurs we left behind, the more fruit we'd get from them. It can be a bit anxiety-producing to cut off so much plant material and
reduce your grapes to just two canes and two renewal spurs (for next year's
growth)! In truth, by cutting back the plants so radically, you may get fewer bunches but the ones you get will be larger and more filled out and easier to harvest.<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV42CAhEH58PQm4MgRGOpx6Vlmv_q11cFT_i9YpI3Ya7fyZ69-wxIAoRTnjVjN7sqghiQ9wnZ2WldbxB_ieHIm7gvz_18zh06F0T93lGqPMhpLg-0_KPHqSYXiYArOhFqyzjbZPaihurpHe6tBX54vrDJTjue3GSdCT_nrXj-6m3Kl9wJ3OTaclsN1cCJ/s2620/HV.grapes.2022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1872" data-original-width="2620" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV42CAhEH58PQm4MgRGOpx6Vlmv_q11cFT_i9YpI3Ya7fyZ69-wxIAoRTnjVjN7sqghiQ9wnZ2WldbxB_ieHIm7gvz_18zh06F0T93lGqPMhpLg-0_KPHqSYXiYArOhFqyzjbZPaihurpHe6tBX54vrDJTjue3GSdCT_nrXj-6m3Kl9wJ3OTaclsN1cCJ/w400-h286/HV.grapes.2022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a fraction of our harvest using the pruning technique outlined above.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-59072286617269896612024-03-01T10:07:00.000-08:002024-03-19T12:21:08.647-07:00Starting lettuce from seed...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3>
</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAkmZh8mxI7mjweVV2i4gQPA8zPKYaXlzPi6GM277czS9kCL2cYltxZYyWvE6C0sscHCkYzhRDRFhceS0IecyENh8lvC5IOAQnbvEsZ3_euHHjQXTRGfR6bbV7UurTPW_MwtGddQMDgUUM/s1600/summer+rose.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAkmZh8mxI7mjweVV2i4gQPA8zPKYaXlzPi6GM277czS9kCL2cYltxZYyWvE6C0sscHCkYzhRDRFhceS0IecyENh8lvC5IOAQnbvEsZ3_euHHjQXTRGfR6bbV7UurTPW_MwtGddQMDgUUM/s200/summer+rose.jpg" width="199" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Red Iceberg Lettuce - a summer rose!</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b> Starting lettuce from seed...(and cabbage, broccoli, kale and other cool weather-loving crops).<br /></b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b> </b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>Note:</b> Though this was originally written and posted in 2011, and some of our practices have shifted (for example we no longer use rabbit manure - or any animal by-products - in our garden or soil-mix - <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/10/making-your-own-veganic-potting-soil-in.html" target="_blank">LINK: Making Your Own "Veganic" Potting Soil in Your Greenhouse Paths - Using Worms </a>) - the core of the information is still accurate and useful so we have republished without editing...<b>This post gives generic information for starting cool-weather crops (lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, kale etc) from seed.</b><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Here in the Pacific NW, we start our lettuce seed in a greenhouse in
late February and then transplant the starts out in April or May when
conditions allow. We're vegetarians and end up with <b>a lot</b> of
those white, plastic, square tofu containers. We've found they make
great tubs to start small seedlings. We drill holes in the bottom for
drainage, fill with a good potting mix (using the <i>bottom</i> of another tofu tub to pack the soil firmly and make a flat surface for the seeds).<br />
<br />
After misting the soil so it is good and damp, we sprinkle the lettuce
seeds with our finger-tips trying to have a 100 or so seeds per tofu
tub. Lastly we gently sprinkle a thin lay of cover soil over the seeds
and lightly mist to settle the seeds. They must be kept moist but not
overly wet or the seeds and starts may rot. Lettuce seed germinates best
in a cool soil so don't put it on a heat mat or under a lamp to get it
to germinate.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8nKmwgFjZEDxPrjefwSFnk-b8NCk8z0N5Yu1QfZPlP-yY24skgPCao0vyvKTDeBd_tc5ajoKuT4VuhFK5xWt8ssXuJWvllir_quv7xEceQwPdQrfOPec6FhcWvrxr6qwYEYqExRkJTgG/s1600/a-transplant.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8nKmwgFjZEDxPrjefwSFnk-b8NCk8z0N5Yu1QfZPlP-yY24skgPCao0vyvKTDeBd_tc5ajoKuT4VuhFK5xWt8ssXuJWvllir_quv7xEceQwPdQrfOPec6FhcWvrxr6qwYEYqExRkJTgG/s320/a-transplant.jpg" width="281" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Lettuce seedlings in a tofu container. Using a pen to make holes for transplants.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When the seedlings are about 1/2" - 1" (2 cm) high, they are ready for
transplanting. We put ours in regular or "jumbo" six-packs. We use a
basic, organic potting soil and add our own fertilizer. To each
wheelbarrow of soil we add about two cups of all-purpose organic
fertilizer and about a half-gallon of sifted rabbit manure . When
germinating tiny seeds (such as lettuce), we sift the soil before adding
amendments so the seedlings don't have to push past un-composted bits
of bark or wood-chips in the soil. For transplanting, we don't bother to
sift the soil.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lB211jpKi8GkMZBvC98HX-sDjDQ9lYMfVU_U5drbwBGYEBCiA1Pr_2LF-ZXeSnfbIKvWHBKhGtolKBCrjNuld8kPAhmuEoiUmf-2P6rRf5WlsKBkzvSL_ywNOmM9dBC-OBulmFNpIWHC/s1600/a-seedlings.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lB211jpKi8GkMZBvC98HX-sDjDQ9lYMfVU_U5drbwBGYEBCiA1Pr_2LF-ZXeSnfbIKvWHBKhGtolKBCrjNuld8kPAhmuEoiUmf-2P6rRf5WlsKBkzvSL_ywNOmM9dBC-OBulmFNpIWHC/s320/a-seedlings.jpg" width="305" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Transplanting seedlings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the Sharing Gardens, where we might grow 1,000 or more lettuce
plants per season, transplanting is done in large batches. Being
systematic in the nursery will save you time and materials and you will
have much better results. Have labels ready so you keep track of the
varieties you are transplanting. Fill a flat of six-packs and mist it
with water and soak the seedlings too. Wet soil is less shocking to
transplanted roots than dry. Cupping your hand over the whole tofu-tub
of seedlings, flip it over and tap the bottom, catching the whole clump
of soil and seedlings in your hand. Gently flip it back over and place
it on a tray to catch the loose soil as it drops off.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-mA_qlOTs06UNGzMMKHFER_jCovlYY9p6uxHcfBHUsHkUi81BqJ_RLW44bBfKtjSaDODsrLvzP-DoKI-yYz6wMOx-gTSNJg64rFQhecAnrLAtWVfoYRxQ_RpXQSZq2jELsnhOk8JfP0E/s1600/hardening+off.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-mA_qlOTs06UNGzMMKHFER_jCovlYY9p6uxHcfBHUsHkUi81BqJ_RLW44bBfKtjSaDODsrLvzP-DoKI-yYz6wMOx-gTSNJg64rFQhecAnrLAtWVfoYRxQ_RpXQSZq2jELsnhOk8JfP0E/s320/hardening+off.jpg" width="320" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Seedlings "hardening-off".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Using your finger. a stick or some other object, make a generous hole in
each of the cells of the six-packs. Pull off a clump of seedlings and,
holding them by their leaves, tease apart a single plant with its roots.
On a cool, overcast day you can lay a large number of the seedlings
alongside their holes before dropping them in and squeezing the soil
around them. If the day is hot or the sun is strong, work in smaller
batches so the seedlings don't get shocked. It is very important that <i>all</i> the roots go <i>down</i>
into the soil and are covered. If they stick out from the surface, this
is called 'J-rooting' and will often kill the plants as they dry out
too easily. This is why you want to dig a generously-sized hole so the
rootlets don't catch on the sides as you lower them in. After pressing
the soil in around each seedling, water them in gently to settle the
soil. Label the tray and move onto the next.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92BxTkDZajF68Bl679VV0tPfwjm6Heo3y1vkIyE_3A6Z2gXRy7Xc49DI_wY4OafCJOrhCGHS0axA8nC8G3UvON-gt0iSHSg1Ta6vn5ldOfWQIR57-ramuinCvFT8cQnIeTc5WEe_ZU6gq/s1600/transplanting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92BxTkDZajF68Bl679VV0tPfwjm6Heo3y1vkIyE_3A6Z2gXRy7Xc49DI_wY4OafCJOrhCGHS0axA8nC8G3UvON-gt0iSHSg1Ta6vn5ldOfWQIR57-ramuinCvFT8cQnIeTc5WEe_ZU6gq/s320/transplanting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Transplanting peas and lettuce</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Depending on warmth and sunlight, and the size of the six-packs you use,
your lettuce will be ready to plant in the soil in six to ten weeks. If
you stagger your plantings it will mean your lettuce doesn't all come
ripe at once. Ideally you wait until the root ball has filled the
six-pack cell enough to hold the soil as you pop it out, without being <i>totally </i>root-bound
(roots coming through the bottom of the six-pack). A week or two before
you transplant into your garden, bring the starts outside and begin
"hardening them off". Put them where they will get plenty of sun but not
too much wind. They will withstand a light frost but if it is going to
get <i>very</i> cold, or doesn't warm up in the day, bring them back
into the greenhouse till conditions improve. During this hardening-off
period, prepare garden beds so they are ready to receive transplants. In
our "deep-mulch/minimal till" gardens, we pull a row of mulch over to
the adjacent path (with a pitchfork) and, with a trowel dig a small hole
just the size of the lettuce's root-ball. This leaves worm holes intact
and lettuce seems to thrive without any roto-tilling needed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ifG1Owyk5hEdB40lZ-FNrNaIUXkDD04l1vw-FC3Hxalp0oc5SqWNgOd9du5kCZKZPCyGOr1J3HLVPiCO5qnzmlZYtIyoUUC56TdYtBBNBYsYIlXiYEtZNNeDMxofEGD7JkHNfnlTY75P/s1600/picking+individual+leaves.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ifG1Owyk5hEdB40lZ-FNrNaIUXkDD04l1vw-FC3Hxalp0oc5SqWNgOd9du5kCZKZPCyGOr1J3HLVPiCO5qnzmlZYtIyoUUC56TdYtBBNBYsYIlXiYEtZNNeDMxofEGD7JkHNfnlTY75P/s400/picking+individual+leaves.jpg" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Several weeks after transplanting. Picking individual lettuce leaves for salad.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Here in our area, slugs can be a real problem in the spring. Follow this
link for ideas on how to re-use milk cartons or soy-milk containers to
thwart off their feasting. <a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/05/re-purposing-things.html" target="_blank">Re-Purposing Things</a>
We don't find that additional fertilizing is necessary for lettuce
plants. They receive enough nutrients from the soil. We hold off on
mulching them because we want the sun to warm up and dry out the soil
and mulch provides habitat for the slugs. Sometimes, after the lettuce
is well established and the soil is warmed up, we mulch with a few
inches of grass clippings around our plants. Let the clippings dry out
for a few days on a tarp or in a bin. Fresh clippings, if piled thickly,
can heat up considerably and burn your plants.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jC6itu2BX5OdP3QRWBXD6x22K5lSB9TpGmTQ4Cg7-4K8IHWn5ge9uJ06Ket9WPLWGJsh3qdKm7tMUp8Q7NxBffVgdsfh5EzrqnTUYooOueZbyZIQui_NW51ohrt_jsD9Rs2OmUKItanN/s1600/chris-lettuce.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jC6itu2BX5OdP3QRWBXD6x22K5lSB9TpGmTQ4Cg7-4K8IHWn5ge9uJ06Ket9WPLWGJsh3qdKm7tMUp8Q7NxBffVgdsfh5EzrqnTUYooOueZbyZIQui_NW51ohrt_jsD9Rs2OmUKItanN/s320/chris-lettuce.jpg" width="320" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Chris Burns with beautiful lettuce harvest! 2011</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We plant our lettuce spaced about 6" - 8" (12 - 15 cm) apart. We harvest
them intermittently giving the remaining lettuce room to grow. In the
early stages, before the heads are fully formed, we harvest one to three
leaves off each plant, rather than clipping whole heads. As the heads
become full size we harvest by cutting them off at the root with a
paring knife, leaving the roots in the ground to feed the worms.<br />
<br />
<b>Fall Crops:</b> Give yourself 45 - 60 days (before hard freezing) to
grow your fall crops of lettuce. You can assist your lettuce in
germinating if you begin the process in a shaded area so the soil isn't
too warm. Once seedlings come up, they will need sunlight to grow but do
this outside of the greenhouse so they don't get too hot. Heat triggers
the plants to "bolt" (go to seed) even when the plants are very young.<br />
<br />
<b>Favorite varieties:</b> Everyone who eats out of our gardens seems to prefer green lettuce to red, or at least to have <i>some</i>
green to mix in with the red. (This even includes the bugs and sparrows who seem to
devour the green lettuce much more voraciously!) Our recipients also
seem to prefer head lettuce to the "leaf" lettuce. We don't know why
this is (maybe just habit...) but we take this into consideration when
we plant out our gardens. There are hundreds of varieties of lettuce to
choose from. The most popular ones we grew this year were:<br />
<br />Slo-bolt (Black-seeded Simpson)<br />
Chartwell's Romaine<br />
Green <i>and</i> Red Iceberg (home-grown Iceberg lettuce is <i>much</i> more nutritious than store-bought).<br />
Four Seasons (a red Romaine-type lettuce)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/07/lettuce-from-seed-to-feed-part-2-saving.html" target="_blank">LINK: How to Save Your Own Lettuce Seed</a><br />
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-2593083716235959602024-02-07T13:33:00.000-08:002024-02-07T14:41:59.315-08:00A Love Like That! Historic ice storm, Pics from the Garden and Tips for Early Spring Planting<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1V82HNkbac_UEp7qC9BYOcz_Xjx_x99o4I-gTl0UkKLUDpMSTaObPS27nGDrnUqNmcefTOIXoyBmcDu5rwORvQMiYIKhW4gyUpqUVLKnRmDo_GKg8e-EnaSoS-__38FnC3Xwl2_kOuOC/s1600/a-trees3.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1V82HNkbac_UEp7qC9BYOcz_Xjx_x99o4I-gTl0UkKLUDpMSTaObPS27nGDrnUqNmcefTOIXoyBmcDu5rwORvQMiYIKhW4gyUpqUVLKnRmDo_GKg8e-EnaSoS-__38FnC3Xwl2_kOuOC/s320/a-trees3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;"><b>A Love Like That! </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b> </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Even after all this time</div>
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the sun never says to the earth,</div>
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"You owe me."</div>
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<br /></div>
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Look what happens </div>
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with a love like that,</div>
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it lights up the whole sky.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div>
-Hafiz (a Persian poet of the 1300's)<p><b>Hello friends of the Sharing Gardens </b>- Well, after only a minor set-back from an <b>historic double ice-storm </b>here in the Pacific NW, we're back on track with <b>significant plantings of early spring crops.</b> <b>Here's news of the storm, pictures from the garden and links to relevant posts for this time of year. Enjoy!</b> And <b>happy gardening</b>!</p><p>In mid-January, southwest Washington and northwest Oregon were hit with <b>two back to back ice-storms and several days that didn't get above freezing, with night-time lows in the teens.</b> <b>Heavy, steady, freezing rain just became 2" of sheet-ice</b> in our area. <b>Thousands of trees and branches came down,</b> severing power lines all over the region. <b>We were very fortunate</b> in that we personally only lost power long enough to prompt us to try out our new hand-operated coffee grinder (slow but perfectly adequate). We heat exclusively with wood so our house stayed nice and toasty. Thousands of households lost power for days and in some cases for over a week! </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYWQoQBc9bkguGiosACMVIt9NFRkIVlb-GCbrLD1dEhXqR3g40cz5CsFWwKzRcz6syj3RqByzZs-nxOzJc0MBkNbXLd7nL7paXo6GtbtGundsnR58xm7PKE5GkE5wJ-YGqXla2R4nSqMNFvi6DxSuupp5mhwkO-bNUf6rmhaUyZRlbctRXvjZ5TliH6vX/s3264/FH.baskets.woodstove.drying.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYWQoQBc9bkguGiosACMVIt9NFRkIVlb-GCbrLD1dEhXqR3g40cz5CsFWwKzRcz6syj3RqByzZs-nxOzJc0MBkNbXLd7nL7paXo6GtbtGundsnR58xm7PKE5GkE5wJ-YGqXla2R4nSqMNFvi6DxSuupp5mhwkO-bNUf6rmhaUyZRlbctRXvjZ5TliH6vX/w300-h400/FH.baskets.woodstove.drying.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We heat exclusively with wood and insulated the whole 1875 farmhouse when we did renovations in 2014 so we stayed plenty warm. We often cook on it too.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>The wildlife really suffered. We went through over three gallons of birdseed in four days </b>(three times our usual amount) and had to use ski poles to venture out to where we feed them so we didn't slip and fall. <b>Many types of birds that we don't usually see at our feeders showed up</b> including varied thrushes, quail, red winged black birds and more. </p><p>People in our area who didn't have crampons or ski-poles made make-shift traction devices by wrapping small-link chains around their boots and attaching them with twist-ties! One friend had to venture across the frozen nightmare several times a day to feed wild mallards and geese that overwinter at her pond. Another friend tried to help the deer by spreading out apples for them but the deer were having a heck of a time moving across the ice. There was no crust to break through and gain traction...just solid ice all the way to the ground.</p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaHlmO8z854m4cxO4mUokwQYgNalBqPz5jAakb0NTTIi7R8Xt8VnjMx1U5z67rqFfSLl0M2NXIdX1Cr-INbhOAVCBxexeQg_sXvxq1FzoJ7ce11koqi9c3kED2peP2FnGkgv2dyX3o33y6OfBh7PISzxNJstHFmxwIptzXuhlAd-9-eFreOg-E4NOXbsT/s3491/NAT.birds%20in%20icestorm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2204" data-original-width="3491" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaHlmO8z854m4cxO4mUokwQYgNalBqPz5jAakb0NTTIi7R8Xt8VnjMx1U5z67rqFfSLl0M2NXIdX1Cr-INbhOAVCBxexeQg_sXvxq1FzoJ7ce11koqi9c3kED2peP2FnGkgv2dyX3o33y6OfBh7PISzxNJstHFmxwIptzXuhlAd-9-eFreOg-E4NOXbsT/w400-h253/NAT.birds%20in%20icestorm.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birds during the ice-storm. At one point I counted over 80 before they took flight and I lost count.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCmBVVvhxyIsMCp2f_WW1Y0eIcAMAxMJsElLS0N6mjqYzSwDeDsSn0zaBH1OerH91t97Z0mI2tGWV_iellcQSWAEVrKETaiNL3RSQKJAMhTN6hF9wZsuTi1Cs5ZaXQNbDayqQIQknHtdaObcHw7bHfuC6QiSRpI7JbTtNV4nG0mEN7uCs353sxWWWSye7/s4128/GP.ice%20storm.orchard.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2236" data-original-width="4128" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCmBVVvhxyIsMCp2f_WW1Y0eIcAMAxMJsElLS0N6mjqYzSwDeDsSn0zaBH1OerH91t97Z0mI2tGWV_iellcQSWAEVrKETaiNL3RSQKJAMhTN6hF9wZsuTi1Cs5ZaXQNbDayqQIQknHtdaObcHw7bHfuC6QiSRpI7JbTtNV4nG0mEN7uCs353sxWWWSye7/w400-h216/GP.ice%20storm.orchard.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This view includes a big apple tree in the middle, flanked by hazelnut trees and a lilac on the right. None of our fruit or nut trees were damaged in the storms.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Thank goodness for our greenhouses! We already had carrots started in two raised beds - which did fine through the cold. We also had also just planted two-dozen potatoes, 6" underground and under a thick cover of dry leaves. These appear to be doing fine. Their greens are just beginning to emerge from the leaves.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKAVtSIkUOhy_58YhcQgD6R2NqOCNQNrnbSSP0NYH1rhcCZ1WRHUxdCjGM_WhKYOh_L74hZ-PsioYnOT7GvSbumBoYOnwoOKL9Z7dS4-pTH0JMJbASCKcXyordKx-nMutk3XoUTX1EKiHAsgiDCoslt2nt32azppsHl-WJeLSBjynyQAnWqkgbK6CGXK1d/s4128/GP.ice%20storm%202024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKAVtSIkUOhy_58YhcQgD6R2NqOCNQNrnbSSP0NYH1rhcCZ1WRHUxdCjGM_WhKYOh_L74hZ-PsioYnOT7GvSbumBoYOnwoOKL9Z7dS4-pTH0JMJbASCKcXyordKx-nMutk3XoUTX1EKiHAsgiDCoslt2nt32azppsHl-WJeLSBjynyQAnWqkgbK6CGXK1d/w400-h300/GP.ice%20storm%202024.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful sunrise following the worst of the ice storms; ground is still very icy. The greenhouse on the left is called the Sunship and the one on the right is the Ark. Chris had to knock ice off both greenhouses to be sure they didn't collapse under the weight. <br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Chris had already started several varieties of seeds in tofu-containers.
We brought them in the house during the worst of the freeze. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Pzd1_Ril7v_Sn54ZpxEUrWsSBMdUwgWkYv8qLdoOn9qxELiuHuvnJN_0bjZFplFrYir0W2oBs6LTolPH4Ing-PkjH1oReLV74dWgfTCME-XcfPj8JJX97ssNsJ-kTr3E0mNxqGFP04-jDa1hxhA1P4VytLDKLdXSN4xutdVNgRVBccU3gGt7at8N-qRh/s3872/HV.seeds.Chris.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3872" data-original-width="2576" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Pzd1_Ril7v_Sn54ZpxEUrWsSBMdUwgWkYv8qLdoOn9qxELiuHuvnJN_0bjZFplFrYir0W2oBs6LTolPH4Ing-PkjH1oReLV74dWgfTCME-XcfPj8JJX97ssNsJ-kTr3E0mNxqGFP04-jDa1hxhA1P4VytLDKLdXSN4xutdVNgRVBccU3gGt7at8N-qRh/w266-h400/HV.seeds.Chris.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We
often start our seeds in tofu-containers with holes drilled in the
bottom. The soil in our raised beds is perfect for just scooping into
the containers for starting seeds (though sometimes we sift it for
really small seeds).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfZnLRmkpMapL-arNxJXPRAg1ZrSG6V6YXYbbJNlz64f_Xke2FmmUiWNIYtGU5msLTGJZtda6VuqCxnYI2bRC77s3SExTypCFEoIQmriEOoCZNUKqfmqfz2x7_hzo9YcNsVMqd75bUoDdcCqIHVMHVDh0tYtaOxiyKi_ZHUXrIShUSDgsSfm62N8EEVxDR/s3091/HV.seedlings%20on%20porch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3091" data-original-width="2059" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfZnLRmkpMapL-arNxJXPRAg1ZrSG6V6YXYbbJNlz64f_Xke2FmmUiWNIYtGU5msLTGJZtda6VuqCxnYI2bRC77s3SExTypCFEoIQmriEOoCZNUKqfmqfz2x7_hzo9YcNsVMqd75bUoDdcCqIHVMHVDh0tYtaOxiyKi_ZHUXrIShUSDgsSfm62N8EEVxDR/w266-h400/HV.seedlings%20on%20porch.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seedlings (foreground/left) we brought inside during the worst of the storms and until things were consistently warm enough to return them to the greenhouse.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>All the seeds that we started before the storm have now been transplanted into
bigger pots. They're suffering a little bit from lack of sunlight and are a
little spindly. Even though temps rose, it's been a very overcast and
drizzly/rainy winter (typical for an El Nino season). Starting seeds in
January was pushing things a bit for our area but even if this first
batch doesn't do so well, the later batches we've started should do fine.
Starting seeds early is always a gamble but it's worth it if you have
enough seeds to spare. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/01/starting-seedlings-in-greenhouse-raised.html" target="_blank">Starting Seedlings Directly in Greenhouse Raised Beds </a></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NtcAY3e4ViGTW40e24vXQjEkVlVyr6BtmMYZCB0kzBXwYbIsaJvN4mivY1lZe2OfLswc3Dt75cyTWPUh_l84bwHkiGEvnQ1awgbjRXKRHAf4u68gmk_uYN15sVt1MpCQvDB773lG5v-6z3c_CTpeLKCRxciM5pm6s9VgMjlXrh1X3MYqc8o3KeJ1WYKt/s3034/HV.seedlings.1.28.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3034" data-original-width="2346" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NtcAY3e4ViGTW40e24vXQjEkVlVyr6BtmMYZCB0kzBXwYbIsaJvN4mivY1lZe2OfLswc3Dt75cyTWPUh_l84bwHkiGEvnQ1awgbjRXKRHAf4u68gmk_uYN15sVt1MpCQvDB773lG5v-6z3c_CTpeLKCRxciM5pm6s9VgMjlXrh1X3MYqc8o3KeJ1WYKt/w309-h400/HV.seedlings.1.28.jpg" width="309" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here are many of the seedlings that have been "potted up". Cabbages and kale: six per tofu container...Lettuces do really well in egg cartons (bottom/right). The roots grow right through the cartons and each seedling can just be torn off the dozen and planted directly in the soil, egg-carton and all!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Op8nJWIkTV41964qpLavQpjM0dxAIN0ew1ksIi7ieuXJlmYN13etHIUE_MZIj0_nbEBQ1B2J_-tKLH4gsX0t09MxOvz-OBtXarOiJSbiTGxPPTf5EcnGgTS8PN-NoyeYq_s1y4QusMg7K1i7Ee-Y0n-tWO_eiLCdUitW6ZXfpdiqss2Kb44p4uwRvWx/s3890/GP.GH.1.8.2024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2681" data-original-width="3890" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Op8nJWIkTV41964qpLavQpjM0dxAIN0ew1ksIi7ieuXJlmYN13etHIUE_MZIj0_nbEBQ1B2J_-tKLH4gsX0t09MxOvz-OBtXarOiJSbiTGxPPTf5EcnGgTS8PN-NoyeYq_s1y4QusMg7K1i7Ee-Y0n-tWO_eiLCdUitW6ZXfpdiqss2Kb44p4uwRvWx/w400-h276/GP.GH.1.8.2024.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prior to the ice storm, we still managed to host a few volunteer sessions inside the greenhouses. Here, Donn and Chris are hand-digging in bags of compost (harvested from our greenhouse paths - <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2022/12/how-we-growveganic-community-based.html" target="_blank">LINK</a>). Chris rebuilt all the GH raised beds this winter with 2x6 lumber (much of which was salvaged). The black, plastic bags on the other beds keep moisture in the soil, keep the soil temperature warmer (for microbial action) and prevent damage from UV rays. These bags will be re-used over and over again.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2Bc9ZRpj_G51TQIvObiot7OpisgAhurJB__SgYiwOhLp-_Yh1ikLZ-szffkXJkHKfs3qQFiiUjG1dHmJBe7tbkgXZmdBVzFv3xaM-VFpZQzh1jtLccLjCALqf2plf70bOU0c5XagUOcKHqUvxjbotuj8NdgdKIHfoXLJd7_Nw0UVOqPKmnG_K5_71DKS/s3319/V.Suz.carrots%20in%20Jan..jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3319" data-original-width="2556" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2Bc9ZRpj_G51TQIvObiot7OpisgAhurJB__SgYiwOhLp-_Yh1ikLZ-szffkXJkHKfs3qQFiiUjG1dHmJBe7tbkgXZmdBVzFv3xaM-VFpZQzh1jtLccLjCALqf2plf70bOU0c5XagUOcKHqUvxjbotuj8NdgdKIHfoXLJd7_Nw0UVOqPKmnG_K5_71DKS/w308-h400/V.Suz.carrots%20in%20Jan..jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suzanne, removing greens from carrots harvested from outside beds in January.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQgrBKAsvMCb1lPd-M-OwoaX3HcuMZbkfAtEKqOZ_NLSfsv56yezde9OWbX5X4-Fc_83-LmjGhGvxRAzMIopauVjkIWK8HXfEQvNkoEKjCGTPvzgqa5NB43RbLG-PWhvWapbDVZ4xJrar2EzzKStSgKMfHvz52Dt5L7C3dryKRYbDjMScQ2Gi_4CPtx4o/s3146/HV.carrots.54%20lbs.fall%20crop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3146" data-original-width="2811" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQgrBKAsvMCb1lPd-M-OwoaX3HcuMZbkfAtEKqOZ_NLSfsv56yezde9OWbX5X4-Fc_83-LmjGhGvxRAzMIopauVjkIWK8HXfEQvNkoEKjCGTPvzgqa5NB43RbLG-PWhvWapbDVZ4xJrar2EzzKStSgKMfHvz52Dt5L7C3dryKRYbDjMScQ2Gi_4CPtx4o/w358-h400/HV.carrots.54%20lbs.fall%20crop.jpg" width="358" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris planted a long bed of carrots and beets in an outside bed in Sept. It was a bit of a gamble, starting them so late but they did beautifully. We harvested 54 pounds of delicious, sweet carrots! So tender and yummy and full of minerals. We collect plastic containers with fitting lids from our community and re-purpose them for storing our harvests. (Here the carrots are in containers for salad greens).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KMPAnjS2VJHW5a9ptpDXcVApt_QvLDBD3p4oCjVNUah6EoOy7MRNC9EBEsv4nYOj_8ENPfawgiJgiSxEkxXHlZFu1Q0za-6YvP6S_DvXPsVGp_nGRysGQEnipDz7Eu9_WnSev3DcaTcPTgMebElIXjhMLU8gNtIRCR2P-ymPPvHBO6R1eJoa2VctkCgD/s3537/HV.beets.17%20lbs.fall%20crop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2697" data-original-width="3537" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KMPAnjS2VJHW5a9ptpDXcVApt_QvLDBD3p4oCjVNUah6EoOy7MRNC9EBEsv4nYOj_8ENPfawgiJgiSxEkxXHlZFu1Q0za-6YvP6S_DvXPsVGp_nGRysGQEnipDz7Eu9_WnSev3DcaTcPTgMebElIXjhMLU8gNtIRCR2P-ymPPvHBO6R1eJoa2VctkCgD/w400-h305/HV.beets.17%20lbs.fall%20crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beets weren't quite as productive but we still got 17 pounds. They too were very sweet and tender. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>With February upon us, <b>garden tasks will shift to pruning, turning compost piles, repairs and maintenance on buildings and equipment</b>, along with <b>transplanting seedlings and other tasks</b>.<b> If</b> <b>you're local and thinking you'd like to join us for the coming season</b>, here's info about our share-giver (volunteer) program: (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/p/garden-location-volunteer-times-and.html" target="_blank">LINK: Volunteering and Garden Location </a>).<br /></p><p><b>Here are timely LINKS for your own early-spring planting:</b></p><p></p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/valentines-day-time-for-pea-planting.html" target="_blank"></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-EdSPXW_B00bqY-kqB8cDAr1AVRvSrg1qWVkhyVvTGUQE-GOAyXS8MonbT2JQUo4B3KjJZuGii7E2HGNAimz2qMbtY28FlSmJBIjFgLe3QGC1FNVLcEbc09SgceMaBuaFsjIQEgU6s8Cq0YOvlRrShukAZZJNmbZMaxXRBvPwW5pr3Uiw0gFExOsaAaFS/s200/visualize_whirled_peas.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-EdSPXW_B00bqY-kqB8cDAr1AVRvSrg1qWVkhyVvTGUQE-GOAyXS8MonbT2JQUo4B3KjJZuGii7E2HGNAimz2qMbtY28FlSmJBIjFgLe3QGC1FNVLcEbc09SgceMaBuaFsjIQEgU6s8Cq0YOvlRrShukAZZJNmbZMaxXRBvPwW5pr3Uiw0gFExOsaAaFS/w200-h200/visualize_whirled_peas.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/valentines-day-time-for-pea-planting.html" target="_blank">Valentines Day - Time for Pea Planting! </a><p></p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html" target="_blank"></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWw1j5586PPbZuLQUrGtk20my2vOfl237KrGczYyxBbchrPYBREGtFnzRYD0_sdbZFNc4U0IQj-pYpXUET6QaBpXdXiv753HUFQshRfmnTWyK0XQrEn9k2H6tRJGOrpVJCYtkgTX7l1c3Tz9jpV3stckH5VNqNGrcvw630hes1tfPeY2wf2rUVg48u7Rt/s1600/giant%20spud.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1576" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWw1j5586PPbZuLQUrGtk20my2vOfl237KrGczYyxBbchrPYBREGtFnzRYD0_sdbZFNc4U0IQj-pYpXUET6QaBpXdXiv753HUFQshRfmnTWyK0XQrEn9k2H6tRJGOrpVJCYtkgTX7l1c3Tz9jpV3stckH5VNqNGrcvw630hes1tfPeY2wf2rUVg48u7Rt/w197-h200/giant%20spud.jpg" width="197" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html" target="_blank">Sprouting potatoes? What to do. </a><p></p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/can-i-speed-up-potato-sprouting.html" target="_blank"> Can I Speed Up Potato Sprouting? </a> </p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/04/do-i-need-to-buy-seed-potatoes-or-can-i.html" target="_blank">Do I Need to Buy Seed Potatoes or Can I Just Grow Potatoes from the Grocery Store? </a> </p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/12/onions-growing-from-seed.html" target="_blank"></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20qKG-_mKwdWQ6sjqA7M7ZQnopnhf1MfxLZBvBUOEv7TTgfSMRIIHGCC37-EZMZh6GQZSso6mb6yCNso4LVIXFONq6uvGIanb6RhyNFlDDm2cI9kLUfDAgXBHfs9vrhGa4GAa-3wgLMetPxeBzy3d05rgNF1ZkeVRHleEMZVKKClSrbEwIiIXdaaNBXXC/s1284/burgandy%20globes.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1037" data-original-width="1284" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20qKG-_mKwdWQ6sjqA7M7ZQnopnhf1MfxLZBvBUOEv7TTgfSMRIIHGCC37-EZMZh6GQZSso6mb6yCNso4LVIXFONq6uvGIanb6RhyNFlDDm2cI9kLUfDAgXBHfs9vrhGa4GAa-3wgLMetPxeBzy3d05rgNF1ZkeVRHleEMZVKKClSrbEwIiIXdaaNBXXC/w200-h161/burgandy%20globes.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />Onions - Growing From Seed - deep pots <p></p><p><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/01/onions-growing-from-seed-using-heat.html" target="_blank">Onions - Growing from Seed - Using heat mats and shallow pots </a> </p><p>And remember...<b>If you plant it, they will come!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTy3-ErxN92EUKqxTwLqw6wwe2owDwwsHAJDv0N5z7LcIS5Z9BAU_lh0ItgZExtNlGkmD44u13xzjeff_CtKG15w2bjF3okHmO7U18LQHBwQ6_dqDsKu-s0RLHFt8gaC6hPQu-d51yHX3cvXuPcBjlviCKP-nYATdmViVhQXJZdPfk3ke7Z5kT6ywdHIim/s677/If%20you%20plant%20it,%20they%20will%20come.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="526" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTy3-ErxN92EUKqxTwLqw6wwe2owDwwsHAJDv0N5z7LcIS5Z9BAU_lh0ItgZExtNlGkmD44u13xzjeff_CtKG15w2bjF3okHmO7U18LQHBwQ6_dqDsKu-s0RLHFt8gaC6hPQu-d51yHX3cvXuPcBjlviCKP-nYATdmViVhQXJZdPfk3ke7Z5kT6ywdHIim/s320/If%20you%20plant%20it,%20they%20will%20come.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-55716297536620265422024-02-05T09:00:00.000-08:002024-02-07T10:03:20.274-08:00Valentines Day - Time for Pea Planting! <p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQRIHXcxsct5i_LJlN2m0INDaweUoRChY8xS2EVeIjXV7U-4v6gF5XYwOUUCkR1Xq-8BqtajRzvlu52xJTT7GYeecIU2H-pXuAcO9QUI-njQHfGBbJ6h_fkyx6_6BXvmER-P7bcgoiZ4ZJb02f82RtBXA79aJbBYDoAFlIjcaJK_6teAfefbqsBNbwRd-D/s2467/new%20peas.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2467" data-original-width="1694" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQRIHXcxsct5i_LJlN2m0INDaweUoRChY8xS2EVeIjXV7U-4v6gF5XYwOUUCkR1Xq-8BqtajRzvlu52xJTT7GYeecIU2H-pXuAcO9QUI-njQHfGBbJ6h_fkyx6_6BXvmER-P7bcgoiZ4ZJb02f82RtBXA79aJbBYDoAFlIjcaJK_6teAfefbqsBNbwRd-D/s320/new%20peas.jpg" width="220" /></a></b></div><p><b>Garden tips for Peas:</b>
In our region (Zone 8b - <b><a href="https://www.thespruce.com/first-and-last-frost-date-2539701" target="_blank">Last frost-date zone map - USA</a></b>),
its ideal to plant peas around Valentine's Day. This
gives them the best head start for blooming in time for the longest
possible harvest season. The problem is that, here in Alpine/Monroe,
Oregon, the soil is often very wet
and cold this time of year and, even if you get a good start sowing
seeds directly in the
soil, the March and April rains can significantly retard their growth,
the seedlings can rot off at soil-level, or slugs can decimate your
starts.<br />
<br />
If you have raised beds, direct sowing shouldn't be an issue but if,
like us, you don't have that luxury, what follows is a method we've used
successfully for several years to deal with these challenges.<span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-weight: normal;">By </span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><b>starting seeds
in pots</b> and<b> later transplanting them </b>it will </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">increase your chances of an
<b>early, abundant edible-pod pea harvest. </b></span>
</p><p></p><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><h4 style="text-align: left;">
</h4>For this method <b>you will need a greenhouse (or indoor seed-germination set-up)</b>, and live
in a <b>similar climate</b> as the Sharing Gardens (we're in zone 8b, according
to the <a href="http://www.plantmaps.com/usda_hardiness_zone_map.php" target="_blank">USDA zone map</a>). You can <b>start your seeds in pots much earlier than you would be able to
direct sow them outside.</b> Depending on when you start the seeds, they
can be<b> transplanted into a greenhouse for earliest pea-production, or
later, to beds outside.</b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b> <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ySZTEY52GWh1AHRLitYLYaw82myKOnRVWYHHFGsTIQ6p6sgx-Gtw8As1-qwrmVFRcGhosBPGv79_vvMDktcAKJpfOGnghhupCxaXTJkCsXT7zKFAsqV5U543OH1rBLtdLcsfVyMCe04yqAe5kOI42Wwibog9Xh0N_0io9GYABdz3J28hKXex-_jxHbSZ/s2670/NRS-peas-C.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1601" data-original-width="2670" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ySZTEY52GWh1AHRLitYLYaw82myKOnRVWYHHFGsTIQ6p6sgx-Gtw8As1-qwrmVFRcGhosBPGv79_vvMDktcAKJpfOGnghhupCxaXTJkCsXT7zKFAsqV5U543OH1rBLtdLcsfVyMCe04yqAe5kOI42Wwibog9Xh0N_0io9GYABdz3J28hKXex-_jxHbSZ/w400-h240/NRS-peas-C.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peas, started in pots.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>For plants that will be grown out in our greenhouse,</b> we start our seeds as early as the <b>first week of
January. </b>These are then <b>transplanted to greenhouse raised beds</b> by
mid-February. <b>Seeds started in pots in mid-February</b> can be <b>transplanted
to <i>outside</i></b> beds in March. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">By
starting our first batch of seeds at the new year, we can be eating
peas by late March and on into April - at which point the peas we plant <i>outside </i>the greenhouse will begin producing and carry us through May or June! <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
You'll need:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Seeds: Our favorite varieties are: </b>Sugar Snaps - delicious pods/shorter trellis - 6' or Melting Sugar - need a tall trellis - 8' - very prolific but not as sweet. <br /></li><li><b>Soil</b></li><li><b>4" pots (4-6" deep) </b>- the deeper pots give more time before plants become root-bound. You'll need <b>one pot per two seeds. </b>Plants will be transplanted at a spacing of 6"-8".<br /></li></ul>
<b>Fill pots to within a half-inch of the top. Water the soil </b>to help it settle.<b> </b><br />
<br />
<b>Poke two seeds, in opposite corners, about the depth of one knuckle (3/4" or so)</b>.
That's <b>two seeds per pot</b>. This gives each plant enough soil to
germinate and grow to
several inches in height before you transplant. <b>Cover the seeds with soil </b>(about the depth of two seeds-deep) <b>so they're not exposed to sun</b>. <b>Water them gently. Do not over-water</b>. Seedlings can rot if soil is too damp.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_Taz0T6GhRRDTRxhOwBOrWx-ehB2nbBxbBm7lPbp2wWIq_pg4Z6O5H_0sjgggC78nX0E_22BSbG0gdFZfexlwM3tEEmFC-b__rHfA4Zctf5QSo1SgNkJHlcI9Naj1dmzgCvnMe1WbY44/s1600/four+to+a+pot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_Taz0T6GhRRDTRxhOwBOrWx-ehB2nbBxbBm7lPbp2wWIq_pg4Z6O5H_0sjgggC78nX0E_22BSbG0gdFZfexlwM3tEEmFC-b__rHfA4Zctf5QSo1SgNkJHlcI9Naj1dmzgCvnMe1WbY44/s400/four+to+a+pot.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plant <i>two </i>seeds in opposite corners.<b>Note:</b> Since having written this article, <i><b>we have now shifted to planting two seeds per pot</b></i> but do not have photos to reflect this. <br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Keep the potted seeds <b>protected from marauding slugs</b>
by putting them up on a table, or putting a milk-carton collar around
them. <b>(<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/05/re-purposing-things.html" target="_blank">Link</a> </b>to post on Re-Purposing Things - including milk-cartons as collars)<b>.</b> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">If you're <b>planting in January</b>,
you'll need a greenhouse, or indoor germination set-up to protect them
and keep soil in pots warm enough for germination. If you wait until <b>mid-February</b>, pots can be outside in a sunny place, protected from north winds. Temporarily bring them inside if faced with a severe freeze.<b></b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b></b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVloD3N7hdlpocDaYGov4Mg-QxneDnxQEJzHB_BI1LxQjEfee6xG3eXPrKEFskaaTEGl_OOLVBPrih-jVPqccSq4NqfN1760LopoGvmeYXSbQcHBNRUinuJ-SfnDrBjPNtqC4f_hHYZFs8cg3qRdA0V9iPPzj_vdE8u7LbeXsu9fAq3pP-43bML5dyEuPT/s2166/NRS-peas-B.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2111" data-original-width="2166" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVloD3N7hdlpocDaYGov4Mg-QxneDnxQEJzHB_BI1LxQjEfee6xG3eXPrKEFskaaTEGl_OOLVBPrih-jVPqccSq4NqfN1760LopoGvmeYXSbQcHBNRUinuJ-SfnDrBjPNtqC4f_hHYZFs8cg3qRdA0V9iPPzj_vdE8u7LbeXsu9fAq3pP-43bML5dyEuPT/w400-h390/NRS-peas-B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pea seedlings in pots. Pea leaves and tendrils are edible and delicious in salads.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b></b><br />When they are <b><i>at least</i>
6", and <i>no longer than 12"</i></b>, you can put them in your garden, or greenhouse beds. Best to
<b>wait until their root-systems are quite dense in the pots</b> -- almost
"root-bound". They will be easier to transplant without damaging the
plants. On the other-hand, <b>if you wait until the stems are too long</b>, you
risk breaking stems during transplanting so it's a matter of finding
the right balance.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg58CCcbaNPLXO5ayzX0VHvqBYRUhcFk1KjQTdraGNZVJogdDWrmTDdo51dkuNUNoLBt3f8Klb60kGJRe6-144S8UDthSmNGFNR1vUkdlLoj2ca386kLA1Qq7EGaICc3ONx7jFD68vw0ywZxV-42bYAJiKW6-6qS-6fUuf6pjEsJ2uOrq9EHxS9-SnaSgA/s3296/100_1970.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2472" data-original-width="3296" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg58CCcbaNPLXO5ayzX0VHvqBYRUhcFk1KjQTdraGNZVJogdDWrmTDdo51dkuNUNoLBt3f8Klb60kGJRe6-144S8UDthSmNGFNR1vUkdlLoj2ca386kLA1Qq7EGaICc3ONx7jFD68vw0ywZxV-42bYAJiKW6-6qS-6fUuf6pjEsJ2uOrq9EHxS9-SnaSgA/w400-h300/100_1970.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These
peas are ready to be transplanted! In fact they're almost too well
developed! Tendrils from neighboring plants are starting to entwine.
Pea plants are very fragile and you must be careful not to break the
stems.</td></tr></tbody></table><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>Transplanting:</b> Plant each 4" pot (with its <i>two seedlings</i>) about 8"- 10" apart with <i>thin</i> bamboo stakes or
other climbing trellis in between each clump of starts. (Note: peas need a trellis with stakes or caging that is <b>less than 1/2"</b> (1 cm) <b>in diameter.</b> They climb using <i>tendrils</i> (instead of wrapping <i>around</i> the trellis - like beans) and won't be able to grab and climb if your trellis/caging uprights are too thick.) <b> </b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b> </b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>Pea-plants are
<i>not typically transplanted</i></b> <b>but sowed directly in place. </b>They are <b>very
susceptible to shock so be gentle with the roots and stems</b>. Best to <b>have
your trellis in place <i>before</i> you transplan</b>t so you don't injure
roots driving in the stakes. <b> </b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b> </b></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>If slugs are a big issue</b> in your area,
planting them in milk-carton collars can make a big difference. We
also typically sprinkle about a teaspoon of iron-phosphate ("Sluggo")
around each bunch of plants. This is an organically-approved way of
dealing with slug/snail infestations in your garden. <a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/06/organic-solution-to-slugs-iron.html" target="_blank"><b>(LINK</b></a> to article about iron phosphate).<br />
<br />
The plants might go through <b>a little stress</b> from transplanting but once they acclimatize
to their new environment they'll be well along the way to yielding a
bounteous and long-term harvest!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnpcUs3YxcnAvtFLLHGd-vFjY1pm7b3tYoma_yVa2mzyiGRSlZLPwYLdv_JAYnu4yyvyXSASO1auyZoiXr4tcPSYZmFJIJ22_WgGos1E40IbSI3ZZCOnytAhBo6AMwbMtB0P1LNL7i7uB/s1600/OSU-5-9-15-Group-beans.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnpcUs3YxcnAvtFLLHGd-vFjY1pm7b3tYoma_yVa2mzyiGRSlZLPwYLdv_JAYnu4yyvyXSASO1auyZoiXr4tcPSYZmFJIJ22_WgGos1E40IbSI3ZZCOnytAhBo6AMwbMtB0P1LNL7i7uB/s400/OSU-5-9-15-Group-beans.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good idea to have trellis in place <i>before</i> you transplant peas (so you're less likely to damage roots).
The plants will
go through a little stress from transplanting but once they acclimatize
to their new environment they'll be well along the way to yielding a
bounteous and long-term harvest!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr></tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhUW37but1I0U32nXtnByDl57KXUy7jpIlVNP37pG-CTomjP_RdLRZ7tQxw3tAYKKFNX5iIS_v8lIfiX4mVzS4SyyeRzJadjccDA65wlXG114Ig0rOona_K3mPvr1SCWTy39efYjNm1iyw/s1600/100_1988.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhUW37but1I0U32nXtnByDl57KXUy7jpIlVNP37pG-CTomjP_RdLRZ7tQxw3tAYKKFNX5iIS_v8lIfiX4mVzS4SyyeRzJadjccDA65wlXG114Ig0rOona_K3mPvr1SCWTy39efYjNm1iyw/s400/100_1988.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John and Llyn transplanting pea-seedlings outside in early to mid-spring. It's a good idea to have your trellis in place <i>before</i> you transplant peas (so you're less likely to damage roots).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPrXUla4bl9vFODebcpJQybc3_si-tPS2QgogIl6KPKbjzYcADILPM4FhhdjOfy6T9DYL-8njVK66QKiHwHtKvxUPh2Dt7RX6YLkc-iM347Lr7866dnibiY4YMjnoCf7ki3Oji6Kh9-ebd/s1600/Sara-peas+planted+12-22.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPrXUla4bl9vFODebcpJQybc3_si-tPS2QgogIl6KPKbjzYcADILPM4FhhdjOfy6T9DYL-8njVK66QKiHwHtKvxUPh2Dt7RX6YLkc-iM347Lr7866dnibiY4YMjnoCf7ki3Oji6Kh9-ebd/s400/Sara-peas+planted+12-22.jpg" width="333" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sara picking peas in the greenhouse in April. Note: peas need a trellis with stakes or caging that is <b>less than 1/2"</b> (1 cm) <b>in diameter.</b> They climb using <i>tendrils</i> (instead of wrapping <i>around</i> the trellis - like beans) and won't be able to grab and climb if your trellis/caging uprights are too thick.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_Fk1ZjJPXhKbW13pCm6AZjd8SC6Bsv8LghHxeuoY8tt2ZG2snKa-1l729g1Xl4tbeFngI8FiXNqfoIYBR2rOWo3yuM9TMURM1Xqdi1_yLDni_uPv6lxcmM7EK_UickjOdrPX9wwiHjO9/s1600/OSU-May-23-15+Cameron-Hasan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_Fk1ZjJPXhKbW13pCm6AZjd8SC6Bsv8LghHxeuoY8tt2ZG2snKa-1l729g1Xl4tbeFngI8FiXNqfoIYBR2rOWo3yuM9TMURM1Xqdi1_yLDni_uPv6lxcmM7EK_UickjOdrPX9wwiHjO9/s400/OSU-May-23-15+Cameron-Hasan.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pea-vines
headed for the compost pile. <b>Peas, being legumes are able to add
nitrogen to your soil through a symbiotic relationship with organisms
that grow on their roots.</b> This will help improve your soil, particularly
if you leave the roots in the ground when you cut down the "greens" to
add to your compost pile. <b>(<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/06/saving-pea-seeds-low-tech-method-to.html" target="_blank">Link: Saving pea seeds - a low tech method to prevent 'pea weevil' damage</a></b>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMSUALD6qSJpB2frHZ3B2ZAkT8L0bRmhFrBWefg4nOwqEAtCAiOMbGc5z4azclLAW_Fd2FKvYS2WqN9oAJGS8BOqFl_0vm4FWBP7wdXU2fO-fHodcu3TxZlebY2pZfv6ziSS5uEiBzhKl/s1600/OSU-4-11-15+Ross-Storm-Corliss-Kelsey-Jenna.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMSUALD6qSJpB2frHZ3B2ZAkT8L0bRmhFrBWefg4nOwqEAtCAiOMbGc5z4azclLAW_Fd2FKvYS2WqN9oAJGS8BOqFl_0vm4FWBP7wdXU2fO-fHodcu3TxZlebY2pZfv6ziSS5uEiBzhKl/s400/OSU-4-11-15+Ross-Storm-Corliss-Kelsey-Jenna.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Growing food together, grows community too!</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtJyEvWmdM2av9CX-0v7wvdsQ2I5F2RP1uXk544dgFmpUsIlqTTqV-3RJ4FwIdBnL17BYIT10C3RiPn-5PQjnn4DyYLMcc5Y6TgkWiGnw8Ljl9qc7-JzTfmKIOEabmo1kgsVKMJDBr68cw72zjcQZDL2GzQBQKdBRDhNa8PP7KoKo0FHCu50cwmdgy4iD/s1024/give-peas-a-chance-v0-x065tpbacyrb1.webp" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtJyEvWmdM2av9CX-0v7wvdsQ2I5F2RP1uXk544dgFmpUsIlqTTqV-3RJ4FwIdBnL17BYIT10C3RiPn-5PQjnn4DyYLMcc5Y6TgkWiGnw8Ljl9qc7-JzTfmKIOEabmo1kgsVKMJDBr68cw72zjcQZDL2GzQBQKdBRDhNa8PP7KoKo0FHCu50cwmdgy4iD/s320/give-peas-a-chance-v0-x065tpbacyrb1.webp" width="320" /></a></div><br />Other relevant posts for early-spring gardening:</b>
<div style="color: #990000;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #990000;">
<b><a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/can-i-speed-up-potato-sprouting.html" target="_blank">Can I Speed Up Potato Sprouting?</a></b></div>
<div style="color: #990000;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #990000;">
<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/04/do-i-need-to-buy-seed-potatoes-or-can-i.html" target="_blank">Do I Need to Buy Seed Potatoes or Can I Just Grow Potatoes from the Grocery Store?</a></b></div>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="color: #990000; font-weight: normal;">
<b><a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html" target="_blank">Sprouting potatoes? What to do.</a></b></h3>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="color: #990000; font-weight: normal;">
<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/12/onions-growing-from-seed.html" target="_blank">Onions - Growing From Seed</a></b>
</h3></div>
ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com2Monroe, OR 97456, USA44.3439373 -123.371955419.31733091863137 -158.5282054 69.37054368136863 -88.215705400000019tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-78833118073454716112024-02-04T14:22:00.000-08:002024-02-07T14:40:51.916-08:00Sprouting potatoes? What to do.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MWWwOPDDs7WTlf1b0_4jrEeUGrVUi6kM7AECMhevs71YP7gWJRdrtsjaZWLwgPua67hhZpoXmttExwpx2DsKZQGlXazmjyfT3SYP0AhTUUenUwoipEZn-Xv1QUWETfoNbTwmZpTGIPkZcOE0yEsszdWWVbXQKccND0ScLQc1kscb1iF4ESJgRrPhPPH9/s4128/HV-potato%20chitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MWWwOPDDs7WTlf1b0_4jrEeUGrVUi6kM7AECMhevs71YP7gWJRdrtsjaZWLwgPua67hhZpoXmttExwpx2DsKZQGlXazmjyfT3SYP0AhTUUenUwoipEZn-Xv1QUWETfoNbTwmZpTGIPkZcOE0yEsszdWWVbXQKccND0ScLQc1kscb1iF4ESJgRrPhPPH9/s320/HV-potato%20chitting.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>If your potatoes are growing sprouts, you have a couple of options: eat them or plant them! </b>There's nothing wrong with eating potatoes which have sprouted. If you're certain that you won't be planting them, knock off all the sprouts. Leaving them on the potato will cause it to dehydrate faster. If the potato has already shriveled, it's still fine to eat.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQAied2bKRRp2nMrjq2GuQZErDicOfPVuGsvJoFb5H9FS9N5p2RHizzofj7hwe2In263CVAbyPiuAZmoLMWc-7ZCQ4EQimQ-Vq6l231yEVt_8rb90qPO2HtLgkbD5bFbirtGlwqS5ocoqHn0Qqto8zmBwsOTokJfgjxga1E9V_2o46kkox8WJ202rTQvu/s2406/HV-potatoes-shriveled-no%20sprouts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2406" data-original-width="2311" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQAied2bKRRp2nMrjq2GuQZErDicOfPVuGsvJoFb5H9FS9N5p2RHizzofj7hwe2In263CVAbyPiuAZmoLMWc-7ZCQ4EQimQ-Vq6l231yEVt_8rb90qPO2HtLgkbD5bFbirtGlwqS5ocoqHn0Qqto8zmBwsOTokJfgjxga1E9V_2o46kkox8WJ202rTQvu/w384-h400/HV-potatoes-shriveled-no%20sprouts.jpg" width="384" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shriveled potatoes are fine for eating. </td></tr></tbody></table>If the potato has a little bit of green on it, just cut it off and eat the remaining spud. if it has a lot of green, it will be perfect for planting. but if you're not going to plant a really green potato, throw it out. You can put it in your compost pile but it might sprout. If it has any signs of rot, throw it out! There's almost nothing worse than the smell of rotting potatoes!<br />
<div style="font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background: transparent;"><b> </b></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEpT_vCjXaemHngERue5fvrCHmGcIGsby5YX1wtqlWLP6i3rRz9izgH3OyhSE7Zub7Yp3T_AZU-RbKHfSsEAek2hKqo9urnXlzmgis3psbrt6GveanHoaEj2mNCgWPB5Imb7Hgt03C6Mib7cTnNO4BYD_fMhKKEC3JsDveKnN9n7xozm1y0oD0rNRBb9T/s320/green%20potato.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEpT_vCjXaemHngERue5fvrCHmGcIGsby5YX1wtqlWLP6i3rRz9izgH3OyhSE7Zub7Yp3T_AZU-RbKHfSsEAek2hKqo9urnXlzmgis3psbrt6GveanHoaEj2mNCgWPB5Imb7Hgt03C6Mib7cTnNO4BYD_fMhKKEC3JsDveKnN9n7xozm1y0oD0rNRBb9T/s1600/green%20potato.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potatoes that are green under the skin can be toxic in large quantities. If it's just a small spot of green, cut it out and you'll be fine. If the whole potato is green under the skin (above), it would be fine for planting...or throw it out.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background: transparent;"><b> </b></span></span></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background: transparent;"><b>Why
grow your own potatoes?</b> Well for one thing, potatoes are one of
those vegies that are good to eat organic and buying them organic can
be expensive. They are a good use of garden space as a single plant
can yield up to five pounds of potatoes. Also, they're fun to grow.
This article will tell you how you can turn that scary tangle of
sprouting potatoes under your sink, into a meal (or ten!).</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Timing:</b> Count backwards
from when you wish to harvest your potatoes. Most varieties need
between 17 and 19 weeks from planting to harvest. Add another two
weeks for “chitting”. Chitting is a way to help the potatoes
store up solar energy which makes them more likely to produce a big
crop. Exposure to <i>indirect</i> sun hardens the sprouts so they are less
likely to break. Also, the green in their skins is bitter and
discourages pests from eating your seed potatoes in the ground. </span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQr6F06Wijs-LoJbPl6JEMSlzS3F3L9Rx1sRQksDZY57edLRIZnKRNMEK0cT2BZ75Ej7wwV-nZ711dzX-LbIWVX_UQT8YVz57azHuYoSUxrygxrwXScgXKqcx_c0PmrBgVtxiU_nKBeBG/s1600/cut+potato.JPG"><img align="BOTTOM" border="0" height="300" name="graphics15" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQr6F06Wijs-LoJbPl6JEMSlzS3F3L9Rx1sRQksDZY57edLRIZnKRNMEK0cT2BZ75Ej7wwV-nZ711dzX-LbIWVX_UQT8YVz57azHuYoSUxrygxrwXScgXKqcx_c0PmrBgVtxiU_nKBeBG/s400/cut+potato.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms" , cursive;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>This
large potato was cut and allowed to dry on the exposed side
before planting. </b></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Sprout your potatoes:
</b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Potatoes must go through a
natural dormancy before they can sprout again.</i> This can be anywhere
from four to six months. UNlike most crops, they are not sensitive to day-length but have an internal timing that can only be altered slightly to suit the farmer's planting cycles. If you wish to </span><i><span style="font-weight: normal;">delay</span></i><span style="font-weight: normal;">
sprouting, keep potatoes in a cool, dry storage area. If you wish to
<i>hasten</i> their sprouting, increase the temperature and moisture of
their storage place. Layering them in damp leaves, in a tub kept in a
heated part of your house will do the trick. The ideal sprout-length
is about ¾ of an inch (10-15 mm). The longer they become, the more
likely they are to break when you plant them.</span></span></span><br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;">If your potatoes have long,
hairy sprouts: <span style="font-weight: normal;">If your potatoes
already have extensive sprouts, and the sturdy central sprout has
many small root-hairs coming off the sides, it's important that you
remove those, otherwise you'll get many tiny potatoes instead of a
few large ones. These smaller side-sprouts also hasten the
dehydration of the potato and weaken its ability to thrive. You can
rub off the rootlets with your bare hands, they snap off easily.
Multiple, thick sprouts are fine; just get rid of the fine hairs.</span></span></span></h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg3tSVe-OBBUOWxc0cgRYjx6Cxt3vKOaI72LoBsNpfrrNRU56LvoiZPrakOQ6YHlSvHb215Y_gs4IIeZ7ZXjNJSW7QKumDobHMWMj6f7XcIlD-uY5XfXWC3hl7NsZ5Md0c0zuntupvCHQ/s1600/potato-rootlets.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg3tSVe-OBBUOWxc0cgRYjx6Cxt3vKOaI72LoBsNpfrrNRU56LvoiZPrakOQ6YHlSvHb215Y_gs4IIeZ7ZXjNJSW7QKumDobHMWMj6f7XcIlD-uY5XfXWC3hl7NsZ5Md0c0zuntupvCHQ/s400/potato-rootlets.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potatoes on left ave too many rootlets. Ones on right have been stripped and are ready for planting.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Best size for seed potatoes</b><span style="font-weight: normal;">:
The optimal size for seed-potatoes is the size of a hen's egg. If you
have larger potatoes, cut them so they have at least three “eyes”
and sufficient flesh. </span><b>Don't let the freshly-cut sides of
potatoes touch each other</b><span style="font-weight: normal;"> as
this may cause them to rot. (</span><i><span style="font-weight: normal;">Some</span></i>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">browning or blackening is normal
for potatoes as they "skin over".) </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></span>
<br />
<center>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 415px;">
<colgroup><col width="415"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr>
<td width="415"><div align="CENTER">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18Itx_NEWlH3VHoPOo1jCMsdVuGiYX4fTOr5nE1ps3OMsUFLSpnsOf-PulD5PelCg3h3e2Pu-yabv3zJTE1fipfZs9ooYGeHoUGFWfHXFBTnlATNiEPVQkfIEXHWqKVWG_wPw1m3wA6jb/s1600/Chitted+Potato.jpg"><img align="BOTTOM" border="0" height="340" name="graphics17" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18Itx_NEWlH3VHoPOo1jCMsdVuGiYX4fTOr5nE1ps3OMsUFLSpnsOf-PulD5PelCg3h3e2Pu-yabv3zJTE1fipfZs9ooYGeHoUGFWfHXFBTnlATNiEPVQkfIEXHWqKVWG_wPw1m3wA6jb/s400/Chitted+Potato.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="415"><div align="CENTER">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>These are a good size for
planting. Note the greenish hue from "chitting".</b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Chitting your potatoes</b><span style="font-weight: normal;">:
</span>You can chit potatoes in your house near a window, or on a
covered porch, or in a greenhouse (under a table). <i>Don't put them
in direct sunlight</i> and, if there's danger of frost, cover them
with a towel or cloth at night or bring them inside. After they have
"greened up' a bit, and any cut parts have sealed over, they are
ready to plant. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span>
<br />
<center>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 402px;">
<colgroup><col width="402"></col>
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<td width="402"><div align="CENTER">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAofURfxBqtR6kDWeFcBzQoIrwjcUmuS4kGdtipgYvr3PtvyX0W1adc9ecUvrALsDCwQh4EkPhvA0ymvJ7VeoWsBahbEEeSRRRbB0psETCA6kQ7q01gU-pMTU_84SNUqBYqsrECgtFcix0/s1600/indirect+sun.JPG"><img align="BOTTOM" border="0" height="300" name="graphics18" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAofURfxBqtR6kDWeFcBzQoIrwjcUmuS4kGdtipgYvr3PtvyX0W1adc9ecUvrALsDCwQh4EkPhvA0ymvJ7VeoWsBahbEEeSRRRbB0psETCA6kQ7q01gU-pMTU_84SNUqBYqsrECgtFcix0/s400/indirect+sun.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="402"><div align="CENTER">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Here are potatoes on a covered
porch where they get indirect light.</b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Green potatoes are mildly
poisonous</b> so don't eat them after chitting.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>If you have chitted your
potatoes and its still too early to plant</b></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;">
(the ground is too soggy or there's still snow on the ground) you can
store them in a cardboard box or plastic tub, layered between leaves
from last fall. You can also use straw. Or follow this link to an
innovative way to extend the growing season of your potatoes. <a href="http://www.growveg.com/growblogpost.aspx?id=180">Link.</a>
We haven't tried this but it seems like it would work.</span></span><br />
<br />
<center>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 461px;">
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<td width="461"><div align="CENTER">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuZOOeApdR8FNCvctepn1q3PetGMZEnsEu0B2rw-cHk-MPYeqWhPqp1qhv9Ct3m3uoEVQyNEEEBSxekVL23RHqpLCw-REjSD_X9sP8D7u0hufiNIDiGpDdhz65qpB8gHgfxWA8GKD01ok/s1600/potaoes-display.JPG"><img align="BOTTOM" border="0" height="300" name="graphics19" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuZOOeApdR8FNCvctepn1q3PetGMZEnsEu0B2rw-cHk-MPYeqWhPqp1qhv9Ct3m3uoEVQyNEEEBSxekVL23RHqpLCw-REjSD_X9sP8D7u0hufiNIDiGpDdhz65qpB8gHgfxWA8GKD01ok/s400/potaoes-display.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="461"><div align="CENTER">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Some of our 2009 harvest, with
seed potatoes stored in a paper sack (on the right).</b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>How many potatoes should you
plant?</b> Depending on the variety, you can get five or more pounds
of potatoes for each one you plant. You'll need about a foot between
each plant in your garden and potatoes like lots of sun and loose,
sandy soil. </span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
Links to our other potato blogs, go to:<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/04/do-i-need-to-buy-seed-potatoes-or-can-i.html" target="_blank">Do I need to buy <i>seed</i> potatoes?</a></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/can-i-speed-up-potato-sprouting.html">Can I Speed Up Potato Sprouting?</a></div>
<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2009/03/chitting-potatoes.html">"Chitting" Potatoes</a><br />
<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2010/05/how-to-plant-potatoes.html">How to Plant Potatoes </a><br />
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/05/planting-potatoes-in-clay-soil-our-best.html" target="_blank">Planting Potatoes in Clay Soil </a></div>
ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-8970301919407997652024-02-03T12:54:00.000-08:002024-02-07T10:35:55.700-08:00Onions - Growing From Seed - deep pots<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRumdDu-hceB1jtLWv6nWvNS-fxnnqoQyjsgYqoH1S7icSyzvz309scF9o01cWG31N3Mgfy-xBwVKIjGGGRqdR_dmCokDC1XzCp7t1FIG15PWCKvRPb2aHMiznvyN0zl-q_XdquTQcclMf/s1600/onion+varieties.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRumdDu-hceB1jtLWv6nWvNS-fxnnqoQyjsgYqoH1S7icSyzvz309scF9o01cWG31N3Mgfy-xBwVKIjGGGRqdR_dmCokDC1XzCp7t1FIG15PWCKvRPb2aHMiznvyN0zl-q_XdquTQcclMf/s320/onion+varieties.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">There are literally hundreds
of varieties of onions grown in this world, but unless you grow your own you usually have
access to only a handful of varieties from the grocery store. If you rely on growing onions from ‘sets’,
(the little onions available from nurseries with about a hundred per bag) your options
are often still quite limited. Growing from 'sets' has other disadvantages too; often they will produce a significant number of
‘doubles’ (meaning smaller onions at harvest-time) or they go to seed, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">which makes them
tough and unpalatable. </span></div>
H<span style="font-size: 14pt;">ere is a guide you can follow that will ensure your success at
growing onions from seed. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmW5EjLFi3iXxnvDJ9hsC9BOUZNKT0xK0b8JwWlG9vOOn5k8Vi2RGqvc5aQx75z5KbIzqbL7Tx2LoI6IB_DilbpmipwIQSc61Xbj8fL3AeqSLwk1nl9RoV5fyn2E1qB8TLbd2-yMPoNn-E/s1600/DSC00921.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmW5EjLFi3iXxnvDJ9hsC9BOUZNKT0xK0b8JwWlG9vOOn5k8Vi2RGqvc5aQx75z5KbIzqbL7Tx2LoI6IB_DilbpmipwIQSc61Xbj8fL3AeqSLwk1nl9RoV5fyn2E1qB8TLbd2-yMPoNn-E/s320/DSC00921.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onions going to seed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Here in the Willamette
Valley of Oregon (USDA Zone 7b - <a href="http://www.plantmaps.com/usda_hardiness_zone_map.php" target="_blank">Link to finding what zone you are in</a>), we do best to grow what are called ‘long day’ varieties which
include Cipollini (chip-o-leenie) both red and yellow varieties, Southport White
Globe, or White and Yellow Sweet
Spanish. There are many more varieties
to choose from; check your seed catalogs or go online to see
a greater selection. (Be aware that, if you wish to save your own seed, you must choose Heirloom/Open Pollinated <i>non</i>-hybrid seeds. Those listed above are all Heirloom varieties.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">You will need:</span></b><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><i>Sifted</i> potting mix</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Sand (optional) </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Pots: 4"-wide x 6"-deep (1 pot per 25 seeds)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Seeds; start with fresh seeds each year; onion seeds lose viability within one or two years.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Greenhouse or grow-lights, or the ability to bring seedlings indoors if in danger of frost.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Plant-mister </span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"> <b>When to start:</b> About eight-to-ten weeks from the time you wish to transplant them into your garden. We always get the seeds
started around the middle of February. By late April the
seedlings will be ready to set out into the
garden. They are ready when you can see a clearly defined "bulb", 1/8" to 1/4" pushing above the soil-surface in the pot. At this stage, the sooner they get into the
ground the larger your onion bulbs will be at harvest time. It’s always a good idea to have a bed in mind
that you’ve prepared during the previous fall since it’s difficult to prepare
beds in the spring if you have a long rainy season like we often experience here in </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Oregon</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">. The seedlings can handle a touch of frost at this stage but its no fun transplanting them in really muddy garden beds. Some people wait until early or mid-March to start seeds and still have plenty of time for the onions to ripen.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Pots</b>: We've found that starting
the seeds in pots that are 4" - 6" deep is best. Any shallower and the
seedlings become root-bound before it's time to transplant them.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Soil/Sand: </b>Start with a good organic seed-starting
mix. It doesn’t need to be a premium
potting blend, in fact, if you start with too rich of a soil blend you can
experience a condition referred to as ‘damping off’ which looks like mold growing
on the surface and which causes the young seedlings to rot as they emerge from
the soil. One way to help eliminate this
condition is to sprinkle a thin layer of sand over the seeds. By keeping the soil damp but not too wet
and having good ventilation you shouldn’t have this problem. </span><br />
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBehAEA508kRPMRQceZihmL1zZfuRUORvzPyeeUqODWzw3I6VXRlxJsoIWZ4mjJCzxyAUl6e1d6ebO6dadSfJCE9Wt0SAxciQ15hAN7c5a_6uhExMUHd9i6PN4l_a1gUPANDnvyJZ7pxR/s1600/onion-tofu2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBehAEA508kRPMRQceZihmL1zZfuRUORvzPyeeUqODWzw3I6VXRlxJsoIWZ4mjJCzxyAUl6e1d6ebO6dadSfJCE9Wt0SAxciQ15hAN7c5a_6uhExMUHd9i6PN4l_a1gUPANDnvyJZ7pxR/s320/onion-tofu2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onion seeds can be started in a variety of containers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Fill the pots with a <i>sifted soil</i> to about 1/2" from the top (tiny seeds find it difficult to germinate in soil with large chunks of material). Level out the soil, tamping them down with
the <i>bottom</i> of another pot to create a level surface so that all of the seeds will be sewn at
the same depth (otherwise they germinate unevenly). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Seeds: </b>You may want to actually count
out the seeds the first time so that you can have an idea of what 25 - 35 seeds
looks like because that is about how many would be optimal to sew in 4" pots. You can adjust up or down
depending on the size container you choose.
The idea is to not have an overcrowded condition that would produce weak
and unhealthy seedlings. Place the seeds
in the palm of your hand and pinch out a few at a time. Gently drop them on
the surface of the soil, distributing them as evenly as you can without
becoming too concerned about accuracy.
It’s OK if some seeds are touching each other. Spr</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">inkle a sifted layer of starting mix or sand over the seeds at a depth of
about an eighth to a quarter inch. Tamp
it down again and water gently (a planter mist-er works great at this stage). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Watering:</b> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> Keep the soil moist using either a small spray bottle or water them from below by putting water in trays and setting pots in them. </span>Tiny seeds, until established can be washed away with more aggressive watering techniques. Make sure you label them with the name of the variety and the date you
started them. Then it’s time to be
patient, and let Nature do her work.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">The seeds will not require sunlight until
they have emerged from the soil, usually about two weeks from the time they are
sewn, so you can keep them indoors where they will not freeze, on a window sill
or in a greenhouse if you have one. Once the greens are up, they will require full sun. If you don't have grow-lights or a greenhouse, be sure to bring them inside at night if it looks like you may have freezing temps.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ZqiHzoPVwFj09M1Mz2LCnNq-c8FuYkYYq7XUpmcMBXTRpUr1VDltzheQeY-rh1Z2dlJ535oDJ5DetyfgnJ1E9MYUSYKw0_opxx0_u6NIWJHbIXrPQk0ieLjGC90hWORO2Oiuz5LLZD6P/s1600/DSC00589.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ZqiHzoPVwFj09M1Mz2LCnNq-c8FuYkYYq7XUpmcMBXTRpUr1VDltzheQeY-rh1Z2dlJ535oDJ5DetyfgnJ1E9MYUSYKw0_opxx0_u6NIWJHbIXrPQk0ieLjGC90hWORO2Oiuz5LLZD6P/s320/DSC00589.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teasing onion-roots apart before trimming.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Transplanting: </b>Each pot of seedlings must be teased apart. <span style="font-size: 14pt;">You will need to trim
back both the tops and the roots before trying to stick these tiny seedlings
into the ground. You trim the roots so they're easier to slip into the holes and you trim the tops so that the pruned roots can support the greens above.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">First, dump the whole pot into the palm of your hand. Next,
separate the clump into several sections (maybe 10-12 seedlings in each clump). Hold one clump by its 'greens' and gently tap the root
ball until most of the soil has fallen away.
Tease the seedlings apart and lay them back in your hand so that the small bulbs are in a line (see picture below). Using a scissors or hand pruner, cut away all but about 2 inches of
the roots. Trim the tops to about the
same length as the roots. Now set the clump into another shallow container with
a little water in the bottom to keep them from drying out while you prepare the
rest for transplanting. <i>Prepare only as
many as you are able to set out in one session.</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW7roJbvU4auDJeGg3BOGU4CLHajWWGqH8yiemZNd4Q_QH2DDA0u3QpFlCXKAUaXYbWPIrZ7ZYoM6JNiXVCFHXKJ-TTaQID84jYxM_Fr4WMSIv6nM-MgG9Kh2XLD1onC80uDjOCHjMmH7/s1600/onion-trim6.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW7roJbvU4auDJeGg3BOGU4CLHajWWGqH8yiemZNd4Q_QH2DDA0u3QpFlCXKAUaXYbWPIrZ7ZYoM6JNiXVCFHXKJ-TTaQID84jYxM_Fr4WMSIv6nM-MgG9Kh2XLD1onC80uDjOCHjMmH7/s320/onion-trim6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trim roots and greens to same length. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">In the bed that you’ve already
prepared you open up small holes about 4-5 inches apart. Our onions are usually planted in beds two to three feet wide, with several rows in each bed. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Make holes:</b> To make the holes you can
fashion a planting stick called a ‘dibble’ from a smooth branch or a ¾ in dowel
with a point, or, just use a ‘Sharpie pen’ to make the hole. Make a number of holes and then go back and
drop a single onion in each hole. Gently press the roots into the hole and pinch the soil around each
one, making sure the part that was under the soil in the pot is covered when
you transplant leaving only the green top showing. You’ll get the hang of it after a few and
will be able to transplant hundreds in no time at all!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrZ2ktrNPhPZMhJsQSwnd-GoTj1iKEaLrw2vGQakkledu62LRuuK9ivAuD7wbWvTLjtM-q6T1Td37SoeiqHW0n0qo9iF1ZqjLguLSSgZiN9lKsHebjwzsF23CYEfyTicoCNnEy95QmzC8/s1600/onion+rows.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrZ2ktrNPhPZMhJsQSwnd-GoTj1iKEaLrw2vGQakkledu62LRuuK9ivAuD7wbWvTLjtM-q6T1Td37SoeiqHW0n0qo9iF1ZqjLguLSSgZiN9lKsHebjwzsF23CYEfyTicoCNnEy95QmzC8/s320/onion+rows.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onions in a wide bed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Now the focus becomes keeping
the bed weed-free and well watered. Once
the plants have become established and the warmer, sunny weather settles in
you’ll be amazed at how fast everything grows.
Feel free to thin out your onions when they are immature and be sure to
use the whole thing, greens and all. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">If you have planted non-hybrid seeds, hold back a few onions to replant <i>next </i>spring to save seed. Onions are <i>biennial</i> meaning they don't produce seed till their second year. By collecting your own seeds you can begin the process all over again, and
saving seeds, dear friends, is one big step toward greater food security!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-garden-of-givers.html" target="_blank"><b>Link</b></a> to another post we wrote about onion-growing.</div>
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-41989386891698279752024-02-03T03:00:00.000-08:002024-02-07T13:27:22.636-08:00Onions - Growing from Seed - Using heat mats and shallow pots<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRumdDu-hceB1jtLWv6nWvNS-fxnnqoQyjsgYqoH1S7icSyzvz309scF9o01cWG31N3Mgfy-xBwVKIjGGGRqdR_dmCokDC1XzCp7t1FIG15PWCKvRPb2aHMiznvyN0zl-q_XdquTQcclMf/s1600/onion+varieties.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRumdDu-hceB1jtLWv6nWvNS-fxnnqoQyjsgYqoH1S7icSyzvz309scF9o01cWG31N3Mgfy-xBwVKIjGGGRqdR_dmCokDC1XzCp7t1FIG15PWCKvRPb2aHMiznvyN0zl-q_XdquTQcclMf/s320/onion+varieties.jpeg" width="320" /></a>Note: This article explains how to start onion seeds <b>using a heat mat and shallow pots.</b> <b>To read about how to start seeds in deep pots, without heat mats</b>, <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/12/onions-growing-from-seed.html" target="_blank"><b>CLICK HERE</b></a>).<br /></p><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">There are literally hundreds
of varieties of onions grown in this world, but unless you grow your own you usually have
access to only a handful of varieties from the grocery store. If you rely on growing onions from ‘sets’,
(the little onions, about the size of a large grape) your options
are often still quite limited. Growing from 'sets' has other disadvantages too; often they will produce a significant number of
‘doubles’ (meaning smaller onions at harvest-time) or they bolt and go to seed, </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">which makes them
tough and unpalatable.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div>
H<span style="font-size: 14pt;">ere is a guide you can follow that will increase your chances of success at
growing onions from seed. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmW5EjLFi3iXxnvDJ9hsC9BOUZNKT0xK0b8JwWlG9vOOn5k8Vi2RGqvc5aQx75z5KbIzqbL7Tx2LoI6IB_DilbpmipwIQSc61Xbj8fL3AeqSLwk1nl9RoV5fyn2E1qB8TLbd2-yMPoNn-E/s1600/DSC00921.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmW5EjLFi3iXxnvDJ9hsC9BOUZNKT0xK0b8JwWlG9vOOn5k8Vi2RGqvc5aQx75z5KbIzqbL7Tx2LoI6IB_DilbpmipwIQSc61Xbj8fL3AeqSLwk1nl9RoV5fyn2E1qB8TLbd2-yMPoNn-E/s320/DSC00921.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onions going to seed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Here in the Willamette
Valley of Oregon (USDA Zone 7b - <a href="https://www.thespruce.com/first-and-last-frost-date-2539701" target="_blank">Link to finding what zone you are in</a>), we do best to grow what are called ‘long day’ varieties which
include Cipollini (chip-o-leenie) both red and yellow varieties, Southport White
Globe, or White and Yellow Sweet
Spanish. (<a href="https://farmhomestead.com/choosing-onions-short-day-long-day/" target="_blank">Choosing Onions-Long or Short Day?)</a> There are many more varieties
to choose from; check your seed catalogs or go online to see
a greater selection. (Be aware that, if you wish to save your own seed, you must choose Heirloom/Open Pollinated <i>non</i>-hybrid seeds. Those listed above are all Heirloom varieties.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">You will need:</span></b><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><i>Sifted</i> potting mix</span></b></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Sand </b>(optional) </span></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Pots: </b>We used to use rather large pots (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/12/onions-growing-from-seed.html" target="_blank">4" x 6" deep - 25 seeds per pot</a>) but have shifted to using <b>tofu containers with holes drilled in the bottom (see picture below)</b>, or <b>jumbo six-packs.</b> These use less soil for the same amount of seeds.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Seeds:</b> start with fresh seeds each year; onion seeds lose viability within one or two years. If you wish to save seed, choose Heirloom/Open Pollinated varieties. Choose a variety appropriate to the length of your summer days.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Greenhouse or grow-lights </b></span></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Heat mat </b>(seeds will germinate better with a little bottom heat). <br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Plant-mister </b> </span></li></ul>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"> <b>When to start:</b>
About eight-to-ten weeks from the time you wish to transplant them into
your garden. Usually we get the seeds
started around the middle of February but, if we have extra seed, sometimes we experiment with starting a little earlier (this would only work using a heat mat for bottom heat). By late April the
seedlings will be ready to set out into the
garden. They are ready when you can see a clearly defined "bulb", 1/8"
to 1/4" pushing above the soil-surface in the pot. At this stage, the
sooner they get into the
ground the larger your onion bulbs will be at harvest time. It’s always
a good idea to have a bed in mind
that you’ve prepared during the previous fall since it’s difficult to
prepare
beds in the spring if you have a long rainy season like we often
experience here in </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Oregon</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">.
The seedlings can handle a touch of frost at this stage but its no fun
transplanting them in really muddy garden beds. Some people wait until
early or mid-March to start seeds and still have plenty of time for the
onions to ripen.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Another option, if you have raised beds in your grow-tunnel/greenhouse, is to transplant the 'starts' there - instead of outside). Onions are easy to use to fill in spaces between larger plants, maximizing your raised-bed use. But <b>they need full sun</b> so don't plant them where they'll get a lot of shade later in the season as other plants mature.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">When planning ahead for planting, consider also the practice of <b>companion planting</b> as some plants are more or less compatible with onions <b>(<a href="https://www.homefortheharvest.com/companion-plants-for-onions/" target="_blank">LINK</a>).</b> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Pots</b>: If you will need to wait more than 8-10 weeks, to transplant the seedlings into their permanent growing space, <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/12/onions-growing-from-seed.html" target="_blank"><b>follow this guide for planting in 4"x 6" pots</b></a>. This way you won't run the risk of the onions becoming root-bound before you transplant them.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">In recent years, because we have increased space in the raised beds of our greenhouses, we've shifted to using <b>re-purposed tofu-containers with holes drilled in the bottom </b>- <b>(see picture below - approx. 3"x 5"x 2" deep)</b> (we eat a lot of tofu! - if you're local to us and need some of these containers for seed-starting, let us know!). <b>Jumbo six-packs</b> work too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOri-ivEmaHcQZks9c2OSUXXPYfjJffVJ8wlca-RwaePYV4y4JSqfTxWn02zupoHx5PC5R4xIUvHTC_bcdH___eMx9CkpJpXz1yNB81FHB14igeJLopSKe43tkQEMWG15xlyCiFP07bmo0S1w7O571stjMM_uPx5elYsBXGP9Zzn-rkpjKyeRHrIRuQ/s4128/HV.seed%20starting-tofu.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOri-ivEmaHcQZks9c2OSUXXPYfjJffVJ8wlca-RwaePYV4y4JSqfTxWn02zupoHx5PC5R4xIUvHTC_bcdH___eMx9CkpJpXz1yNB81FHB14igeJLopSKe43tkQEMWG15xlyCiFP07bmo0S1w7O571stjMM_uPx5elYsBXGP9Zzn-rkpjKyeRHrIRuQ/s320/HV.seed%20starting-tofu.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tofu containers for seed-starting. We've used them as 'six-packs' too. Though the roots of the 'starts' grow together, it's easy to tear them apart without damaging them. The tofu containers, 3"x 5"x 2" deep, use less soil than jumbo six-packs so we save on potting mix.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Soil/Sand: </b>Start with a good organic seed-starting
mix. It doesn’t need to be a premium
potting blend, in fact, if you start with too rich of a soil blend you can
experience a condition referred to as ‘damping off’ which looks like algae or mold growing
on the surface and which causes the young seedlings to rot as they emerge from
the soil. One way to help eliminate this
condition is to sprinkle a thin layer of sand over the seeds. By keeping the soil damp but not too wet
and having good ventilation you shouldn’t have this problem. </span><br />
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBehAEA508kRPMRQceZihmL1zZfuRUORvzPyeeUqODWzw3I6VXRlxJsoIWZ4mjJCzxyAUl6e1d6ebO6dadSfJCE9Wt0SAxciQ15hAN7c5a_6uhExMUHd9i6PN4l_a1gUPANDnvyJZ7pxR/s1600/onion-tofu2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBehAEA508kRPMRQceZihmL1zZfuRUORvzPyeeUqODWzw3I6VXRlxJsoIWZ4mjJCzxyAUl6e1d6ebO6dadSfJCE9Wt0SAxciQ15hAN7c5a_6uhExMUHd9i6PN4l_a1gUPANDnvyJZ7pxR/s320/onion-tofu2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onion seeds can be started in a variety of containers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Fill the pots with a <i>sifted soil</i>
to about 1/2" from the top</b> (tiny seeds find it difficult to germinate
in soil with large chunks of material). <b>Level out the soil</b>, tamping it
down with
the <i>bottom</i> of another pot to create a level surface so that all of the seeds will be sewn at
the same depth (otherwise they germinate unevenly). </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Label each pot</b> with the name of the
variety and the date you
started them. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Seeds: </b>You may want to actually count
out the seeds the first time so that you can have an idea of what 25 - 35 seeds
looks like because that is about how many would be optimal to sew in the tofu-containers or six-packs. You can adjust up or down
depending on the size container you choose.
The idea is to not have an overcrowded condition that would produce weak
and unhealthy seedlings. Place the seeds
in the palm of your hand and pinch out a few at a time. Gently drop them on
the surface of the soil, distributing them as evenly as you can without
becoming too concerned about accuracy.
It’s OK if some seeds are touching each other. <b>Spr</b></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>inkle a sifted layer of starting mix or sand over the seeds at a depth of
about an eighth to a quarter inch.</b> <b>Tamp
it down again and water gently</b> (a planter mister works great at this stage). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Watering:</b> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">
<b>Keep the soil moist </b>using either a <b>small spray bottle</b> or <b>water them
from below</b> by putting water in trays and setting pots in them (light watering minimizes 'damping off' too). </span>Tiny
seeds, until established can be washed away with more aggressive
watering techniques. <b>Do not over-water! Soil should be damp but</b> seedlings should never be in standing water. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Heat mat:</b> A heat mat is helpful for germinating seeds if you are doing so in an unheated greenhouse and nights still are getting cold. Heat mats can cause soil to dry out more quickly than ambient air so <b>cover the seedlings with something to keep warmth and moisture contained.</b> <br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Then it’s time to be
patient, and let Nature do her work.</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>The
seeds will not require sunlight until
they have emerged from the soil</b>, usually about two weeks from the time
they are
sewn, so you can keep them indoors where they will not freeze, on a
window sill
or in a greenhouse if you have one. <b>Once the greens are up, they will
require full sun</b>. If you don't have grow-lights or a greenhouse, be sure
to bring them inside at night if it looks like you may have freezing
temps.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>You will know it is time to transplant</b> when the greens are stout and well-established and you can see a tiny bulb pushing up from the surface of the soil. <br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ZqiHzoPVwFj09M1Mz2LCnNq-c8FuYkYYq7XUpmcMBXTRpUr1VDltzheQeY-rh1Z2dlJ535oDJ5DetyfgnJ1E9MYUSYKw0_opxx0_u6NIWJHbIXrPQk0ieLjGC90hWORO2Oiuz5LLZD6P/s1600/DSC00589.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ZqiHzoPVwFj09M1Mz2LCnNq-c8FuYkYYq7XUpmcMBXTRpUr1VDltzheQeY-rh1Z2dlJ535oDJ5DetyfgnJ1E9MYUSYKw0_opxx0_u6NIWJHbIXrPQk0ieLjGC90hWORO2Oiuz5LLZD6P/s320/DSC00589.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teasing onion-roots apart before trimming.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Transplanting: Each pot of seedlings must be teased apart.</b> <span style="font-size: 14pt;">You
will need to <b>trim
back both the tops and the roots</b> before trying to stick these tiny
seedlings
into the ground. You trim the roots so they're easier to slip into the
holes and you trim the tops so that the pruned roots can support the
greens above. <b>Don't be too aggressive</b> with your pruning however or it can shock the plants and make it hard to recover.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">First,
dump the whole pot into the palm of your hand. Next,
separate the clump into several sections (maybe 10-12 seedlings in each
clump). Hold one clump by its 'greens' and gently tap the root
ball until most of the soil has fallen away.
Tease the seedlings apart and lay them back in your hand so that the
small bulbs are in a line (see picture below). Using a scissors or hand
pruner, <b>cut away the tips of the roots</b>, so they'll easily slip into the soil. <b>Trim the tops to about the
same length as the roots.</b> Now set the clump into another shallow
container with
a little water in the bottom to keep them from drying out while you
prepare the
rest for transplanting. <i><b>Prepare only as
many as you are able to transplant in one session</b>.</i> If you end up with extras, surround their roots with some moist soil and keep them in the shade until you have time to get them in the ground.<br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW7roJbvU4auDJeGg3BOGU4CLHajWWGqH8yiemZNd4Q_QH2DDA0u3QpFlCXKAUaXYbWPIrZ7ZYoM6JNiXVCFHXKJ-TTaQID84jYxM_Fr4WMSIv6nM-MgG9Kh2XLD1onC80uDjOCHjMmH7/s1600/onion-trim6.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW7roJbvU4auDJeGg3BOGU4CLHajWWGqH8yiemZNd4Q_QH2DDA0u3QpFlCXKAUaXYbWPIrZ7ZYoM6JNiXVCFHXKJ-TTaQID84jYxM_Fr4WMSIv6nM-MgG9Kh2XLD1onC80uDjOCHjMmH7/s320/onion-trim6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trim roots and greens to same length. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">If you are going to <b>plant them in rows</b>, open up small holes about <b>4-5 inches apart</b>. When we plant our onions this way, our beds are 2'-3' wide, with several rows in
each bed. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">In recent years we have planted rows on the <b>south edges of the raised beds in our greenhouses </b>and <b>in and amongst other crops</b> that won't shade the onions later in the season (for example, on the south side of tomatoes or peppers), or we plant them among crops that will be harvested before the onions are mature, leaving the onions in full sun (like among lettuce plants). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Make holes:</b> <b>To make the holes</b> you can
fashion a planting stick called a ‘dibble’ from a <b>smooth branch</b> or a <b>¾ in dowel</b>
with a point or, just use a ‘Sharpie pen’, or even <b>your finger to make the hole</b>. Be systematic: make 5-10 holes and then go back and
drop a single onion in each hole. <b>Gently press the roots into the hole</b> and <b>pinch the soil around each
one</b>, making sure the part that was under the soil in the pot is covered when
you transplant, <b>leaving only the green top and a tiny bit of the bulb showing</b>. Be sure that all the roots go in the hole and don't "J-root": with bits of the roots poking out from the soil; this will dry out the plant and force it to use extra energy in turning its roots back down into the soil. You’ll get the hang of it after a few tries and
be able to transplant hundreds in no time at all!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrZ2ktrNPhPZMhJsQSwnd-GoTj1iKEaLrw2vGQakkledu62LRuuK9ivAuD7wbWvTLjtM-q6T1Td37SoeiqHW0n0qo9iF1ZqjLguLSSgZiN9lKsHebjwzsF23CYEfyTicoCNnEy95QmzC8/s1600/onion+rows.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrZ2ktrNPhPZMhJsQSwnd-GoTj1iKEaLrw2vGQakkledu62LRuuK9ivAuD7wbWvTLjtM-q6T1Td37SoeiqHW0n0qo9iF1ZqjLguLSSgZiN9lKsHebjwzsF23CYEfyTicoCNnEy95QmzC8/s320/onion+rows.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onions in a wide bed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Now the focus becomes keeping
the bed weed-free and well watered.</b> Mulching between the onions with fresh grass-clippings keeps moisture in the soil and fertilizes the plants each time you water through the clippings. Just don't bury the seedlings! Once
the plants have become established and the warmer, sunny weather settles in
you’ll be amazed at how fast everything grows.
Feel free to thin out your onions when they are immature and be sure to
use the whole thing, greens and all. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">If you have planted non-hybrid seeds, hold back a few onions to replant <i>next </i>spring to save seed. Onions are <i>biennial</i>
meaning they don't produce seed till their second year. By collecting
your own seeds you can begin the process all over again, and
saving seeds, dear friends, is one big step toward greater food
security!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-garden-of-givers.html" target="_blank"><b>Link</b></a> to another post we wrote about onion-growing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div>
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-47824967358275492712024-02-01T02:00:00.000-08:002024-02-07T13:18:38.116-08:00Do I Need to Buy Seed Potatoes or Can I Just Grow Potatoes from the Grocery Store?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Buying
seed potatoes from a nursery catalog can be pretty pricey and its not
really necessary. The only real advantages are that they sort them for
uniformity of size (not a big deal), you know that they're ready for planting (see the discussion about dormancy below)<i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;"> and</span></i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">
you can find some exotic varieties. We just use potatoes we saved from
last year's harvest or buy them straight out of the produce section
at the grocery store.</span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "comic sans ms" , cursive; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span></span><br />
<br />
The term "seed-potato" can be
misleading. Potatoes <i>do</i>, on occasion produce seeds, but
growers do not grow their crops from them. Instead, they grow them
from small sprouting potatoes. <span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">Any
potato, </span><i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">with
sprouting eyes</span></i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">,
that's at least the size of a chicken egg has the means to yield up
to five pounds of fresh potatoes (Generally speaking, the smaller
varieties of potatoes grow to maturity faster but yield less
harvest.) </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwQXW3Iz2aYEMihIYFKS5zB_wqgCOv5y_P0xL24PIomadW74AOvnXmittWxZjud_Qt1RsKq5GzVSs085qUvtbTSOFVDFo76oPaNfzzjP1_RCztX_-hMew1WT3DvD7ImPo0IXfThiZUeGS/s1600/a-seeds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwQXW3Iz2aYEMihIYFKS5zB_wqgCOv5y_P0xL24PIomadW74AOvnXmittWxZjud_Qt1RsKq5GzVSs085qUvtbTSOFVDFo76oPaNfzzjP1_RCztX_-hMew1WT3DvD7ImPo0IXfThiZUeGS/s320/a-seeds.jpg" width="245" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: medium;">These green spheres in Chris' hand contain actual potato seeds but rarely do people grow potatoes from seeds</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Potatoes
are unique in that their growth cycle is not determined by length of
day (as so many other plants are.) Potatoes have an internal clock
that requires them to be dormant for a prescribed amount of
time--different lengths for different varieties of potatoes. They
won't sprout until their dormancy cycle has been reached. This is why
some potatoes are better storage potatoes, because they won't start
sprouting before you've eaten all the ones you want to eat.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
When
we want to plant more potatoes than we've saved from the previous
year's harvest, we start looking for seed potatoes at the grocery
store in late January (mid-winter in northern latitudes) and continue
to buy them through till mid-spring. Many of the potatoes that have
been in storage for the winter start to sprout in the warehouses at
that time and you can get them for better prices. When selecting
potatoes to plant, look for ones that already show signs of
budding/sprouting from the eyes as this way you know they are viable
for growing. Choose the variety you like best. Potatoes do not "cross
pollinate". This means that, if you plant a russet, by golly
you'll get a russet. (Note: one of our favorites is the Yukon Gold.
They last a long time in winter storage and we like the
flavor/texture too.)</div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEg2ujmvFbCcYcW9A5p3JFX-gKSf5EXhx7syIdss62qUywTkMgtqMbQI94kYVSHAPH7sCIhoTqV9znSaCSqSWijBmpvUvfI58kHdgdDFjRk_KGHUfSrNDmJhDTIMgKUUdgAgR3eZVxs8W_/s1600/potato-best+size.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEg2ujmvFbCcYcW9A5p3JFX-gKSf5EXhx7syIdss62qUywTkMgtqMbQI94kYVSHAPH7sCIhoTqV9znSaCSqSWijBmpvUvfI58kHdgdDFjRk_KGHUfSrNDmJhDTIMgKUUdgAgR3eZVxs8W_/s400/potato-best+size.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Ideally, seed potatoes should be about the size of a chicken-egg. Larger potatoes can be cut and skinned over before planting. be sure you have at least three "eyes" per potato.</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Potatoes
need 70-90 days from planting to maturity so count backwards from
your first frost date, or when you wish to begin eating your harvest!
The exotic potatoes that come into the markets, and the small,
egg-sized, common varieties are usually quite fresh; as they don't
keep a long time in storage. They too won't be ready for planting
till they naturally go through their dormancy cycle—four to six
months. We haven't tried this but I read that you can hasten the
dormancy by storing the potatoes in a cool, moist place for a few
months and then putting them in a dryer, warmer (but still dark)
area.</div>
It
is important that you buy organic potatoes because many of the
commercially grown ones are sprayed with a "sprout-retardant"
which gives them a longer shelf-life and this can delay their
sprouting until the potato actually rots.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
If
the potatoes you have are only<i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span>just
</span></i><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">starting to sprout
and the buds aren't very long, keep them in the dark to encourage
more sprouting. Once the buds are at least 3/4 of an inch long, it's
time to "chit" them. </span>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>How
many to get?</b><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span>Each
plant will take up about 12 - 16 inches of row space. If stored well,
they will last for up to six months before starting to sprout again.
Figure on 3-5 pounds of yield per potato you plant.
<b> </b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;"><b>What
size should you get?</b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span>Ideally you will find them that are about the size of a chicken's
egg. Larger potatoes can be cut and allowed to skin over so they
won't rot when you plant them. </span>
</div>
<br />
<b>What
if they aren't already sprouting?</b><span style="background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">
If you can find potatoes that already have "eyes" that are
budding, so much the better. This way you know they are viable for
planting. As long as you buy organic potatoes (that have not been
sprayed with sprout retardant), and allow 3-4 months time for them to
begin to sprout, they do not already need to be sprouting.</span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
<b>When
is it time to plant potatoes?</b> Here
in the S. Willamette Valley, unless you have raised beds, you need to
wait to plant them till the ground dries out a bit. We planted them
in early-April one year, when things were especially cool and wet
and they just rotted in the ground. Depending on the variety you
plant, they take 13 to 17 weeks to ripen. You may wish to plant them
in succession so you'll have <i>some</i> potatoes to eat fresh and,
the later harvests will last longer through the winter.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
If you buy them in a plastic bag, transfer them into a cardboard box
or paper sack so they don't rot before you get to them. Keep them in
a cool, dark place, with good air circulation until they sprout.
Layering them in a tub with leaves or straw, or sawdust works too.
Just be sure to keep them from freezing.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgouzFBkGBYroqi0yWXo2UpMJVZRmTiwT4G3yvpVROC6ygC4yx7HqbgBhcb6foKjSrWuCO-VQ-oAT__qZnOm5wzr2Ajs-Y1M9v2G_pNtEL-Pqhl89X4sQnydlvTkgBUtN5HB1j1KfBT2Lt7/s1600/potato-store+in+leaves.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgouzFBkGBYroqi0yWXo2UpMJVZRmTiwT4G3yvpVROC6ygC4yx7HqbgBhcb6foKjSrWuCO-VQ-oAT__qZnOm5wzr2Ajs-Y1M9v2G_pNtEL-Pqhl89X4sQnydlvTkgBUtN5HB1j1KfBT2Lt7/s400/potato-store+in+leaves.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Potatoes stored in damp layers of damp leaves. These had already begun to sprout and this storage protected their sprouts from breaking off, or the potatoes from drying out until we had the right conditions for planting.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Links to our other potato blogs, go to:</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html" target="_blank">Sprouting Potatoes? What to do.</a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2012/02/can-i-speed-up-potato-sprouting.html">Can I Speed Up Potato Sprouting?</a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2010/05/how-to-plant-potatoes.html">How to Plant Potatoes </a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/05/planting-potatoes-in-clay-soil-our-best.html" target="_blank">Planting Potatoes in Clay Soil </a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-45645763078979254402024-01-31T15:32:00.000-08:002024-02-07T13:19:20.005-08:00Can I Speed Up Potato Sprouting?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_48UChLHsNn_p53wRyPfxcUakeTbrpqV4stVJlXBElOU3eXx8BXFjAOWWCNhQ-8mYEX-2B_rpTZlPPlSGzFJ_TOQk6kuaWwfyplFzft8EUGbWjx17isCp1rZOSKx7SrMAotOmHm1w5q0/s1600/DSC01232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_48UChLHsNn_p53wRyPfxcUakeTbrpqV4stVJlXBElOU3eXx8BXFjAOWWCNhQ-8mYEX-2B_rpTZlPPlSGzFJ_TOQk6kuaWwfyplFzft8EUGbWjx17isCp1rZOSKx7SrMAotOmHm1w5q0/s400/DSC01232.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorted potatoes and ripe Roma tomatoes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-family: "euroroman"; font-size: medium;"> Here's another question about growing potatoes: </span></b><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq" style="color: #990000;">
<b><span style="font-family: "euroroman"; font-size: medium;">"We just discovered that we can plant Irish potatoes at the end of this month, and were wondering if it is possible to
sprout some of the ones from the grocery store (to have them ready by the end of
this month). I checked my potato bin in the pantry, and some potatoes have
little eyes.....could I put a potato in some water, or would that just make
them rot?" <span style="font-size: small;">Ginny Lindsay - Paris Tennessee</span></span></b> </blockquote>
<b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "euroroman";">Potatoes have a natural
dormancy from the time they are harvested to when they begin to sprout,
starting their next growth cycle. This can only be modified slightly by
storage conditions.</span></span></b><b><span style="font-family: "euroroman"; font-size: medium;"> Though this dormancy varies from variety to variety, six-months is about average.</span></b><br />
<b></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg25FEyV2gRU5ljbknPGZvpulMnIYGe_I_qokHK8fNRQvtlRzSWCVe-JpO_ct15QRpyXBhsQiuxWSQM4COsJmCNT68c7yAS87zh-YxuocEGNtUlyu9gcM546FKwmkI6ZVmdRFFU-i-uiiJO/s1600/potato-sprouted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg25FEyV2gRU5ljbknPGZvpulMnIYGe_I_qokHK8fNRQvtlRzSWCVe-JpO_ct15QRpyXBhsQiuxWSQM4COsJmCNT68c7yAS87zh-YxuocEGNtUlyu9gcM546FKwmkI6ZVmdRFFU-i-uiiJO/s400/potato-sprouted.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sprouting potato, before dividing.</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "euroroman";">You can speed up the sprouting process slightly with increased moisture and warmth but putting them in standing water would lead to rot. We have had good success at layering potatoes in damp leaves and bringing them indoors to induce sprouting. Potatoes like to sprout in the dark however so don't expose them to light until the have begun to sprout. When the sprouts are about a half-inch (1 cm) long, they are an ideal length for "chitting". (<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html">See this blog-post for more details on chitting</a>).</span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "euroroman";"> </span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "euroroman";">It is always best to use <i>
organically</i> grown potatoes for seed as <i>chemically</i> grown potatoes have
often been sprayed with a sprout retardant. While it doesn't usually
stop potatoes from sprouting entirely, it can seriously slow them down.</span></span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdAEZeyBi4nSXyU8PF5L6M0a-VK-WWketSF5p0CIDdVkn98htlK1xBjAxSXyBZLO0KcduUdSN6njKfXYcCtv57lqJjbbj-nEIQqYGfZs_lJ1t0JP3GVTQ-NTF3nN28R7uercXqpkNsRXvG/s1600/potato+-+cut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdAEZeyBi4nSXyU8PF5L6M0a-VK-WWketSF5p0CIDdVkn98htlK1xBjAxSXyBZLO0KcduUdSN6njKfXYcCtv57lqJjbbj-nEIQqYGfZs_lJ1t0JP3GVTQ-NTF3nN28R7uercXqpkNsRXvG/s400/potato+-+cut.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sprouting potato, after dividing. Each chunk is at least as big as a chicken's egg and has one or more sprouts.</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "euroroman";">Most varieties of potatoes take about 13 weeks to 17 weeks to mature. We like to stagger our plantings for several reasons. Planting succession crops gives you fresh-dug potatoes over a longer season. Also, if you save the seed-size potatoes out of each digging, they will naturally begin to sprout in succession too meaning that you will always have sprouting potatoes, ready for planting for next year's cycle of staggered crops.</span></span></b><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Links to our other potato blogs, go to:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2011/06/sprouting-potatoes-what-to-do.html" target="_blank">Sprouting Potatoes? What to do.</a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/04/do-i-need-to-buy-seed-potatoes-or-can-i.html" target="_blank">Do I need to buy <i>seed</i> potatoes?</a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2010/05/how-to-plant-potatoes.html">How to Plant Potatoes </a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/05/planting-potatoes-in-clay-soil-our-best.html" target="_blank">Planting Potatoes in Clay Soil </a></span><br />
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-58463889720757992962024-01-25T13:14:00.000-08:002024-01-30T04:11:46.732-08:00'Nooks and Crannies' hot breakfast cereal RECIPE<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMO_UbpldCMLNQZMYBTXaICjEUbaPKbsw1HU8-ymNxkt9bwy3LvA0XoiKpHc7NOm35gBnaSL3vhhMojSiI8ZjGhWefbCQRWICIp2BDD0fB_2Op5SFvic2GHF72JssqOOaqEuT70CtcsqHkY5EyHgy83PzKcVWA61wUm51Hf7n3fZXGGIINAd0HtfduqOk7/s500/Fast-cheap%20and%20easy%20foods%20-%20enki%20quotes.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMO_UbpldCMLNQZMYBTXaICjEUbaPKbsw1HU8-ymNxkt9bwy3LvA0XoiKpHc7NOm35gBnaSL3vhhMojSiI8ZjGhWefbCQRWICIp2BDD0fB_2Op5SFvic2GHF72JssqOOaqEuT70CtcsqHkY5EyHgy83PzKcVWA61wUm51Hf7n3fZXGGIINAd0HtfduqOk7/w200-h200/Fast-cheap%20and%20easy%20foods%20-%20enki%20quotes.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>We get feedback sometimes that our posts are too garden-specific and, for people who aren't gardeners they wonder what they can do to <b>live a healthier, more sustainable lifestyle</b>. Well, <b>here's a recipe for the hot cereal mix that we eat almost every morning.</b><p></p><p><b>We named the cereal mix 'Nooks and Crannies' because it seems to meet so many of our nutritional needs</b>. After a bowl of it we feel incredibly sated and it gives us <b>slow-burning fuel</b> that lasts the morning.<b> Our philosophy is to try and get as many nutrients (and as few toxins!) from the food we eat</b> so we lean towards <b>whole foods with the least amount of processing</b>. We mainly buy <b>organically grown foods</b> and <b>everything we grow is</b>, of course, also <b>organic</b>. We also try to<b> eat a variety of foods</b> so that the micro-nutrients that are low in one food might be filled in by eating something else. (LINK: <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/08/why-we-grow-and-eat-organic-food.html" target="_blank"><b>Why We Grow and Eat "Organic" Food </b></a>) </p><p><b>This post contains the recipe for making 'Nooks and Crannies' cereal including </b><b>a list of ingredients</b><b> (all 31 of them!) followed by instructions for making your own pre-ground seed/nut mix. Enjoy!</b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVPwQ5Q1G_mEZDa_6bM8vxRCFDycD4SQtAEfQofciCCMKW-hBKAwT6Z5M73i6L8yIMw8WycXS6KhXahkyQQOHt9C0dkKBWjWNOENyzX-7HY71OYtGB8Temigv8ksvtQbsw4TOT3TqyXHxVL4axuAcwMb-2uFLL9NRHIQhVP3-gXLK4H0qKm1pUanQ8qAN/s2328/HV.sorghum.dry.basket..jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1689" data-original-width="2328" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVPwQ5Q1G_mEZDa_6bM8vxRCFDycD4SQtAEfQofciCCMKW-hBKAwT6Z5M73i6L8yIMw8WycXS6KhXahkyQQOHt9C0dkKBWjWNOENyzX-7HY71OYtGB8Temigv8ksvtQbsw4TOT3TqyXHxVL4axuAcwMb-2uFLL9NRHIQhVP3-gXLK4H0qKm1pUanQ8qAN/w400-h290/HV.sorghum.dry.basket..jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kassaby sorghum - sweet and nutty in flavor. (LINK: <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/11/grow-your-own-sorghum-for-grain-and.html" target="_blank">Grow your own Sorghum for grain and flour </a></b>)</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b></b></p><p><b>Honestly, the recipe for making the cereal itself isn't much different from what most people make and eat; grains and dried fruit.</b> <b>What really sets Nooks and Crannies apart are all the toppings we add <i>after the cereal is cooked</i></b><b><i>.</i> </b>Here are some ideas to make your
experience truly deluxe! </p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNRFcPHPNccRBp44S__xmWrC5dIF2vcm437sYwsuLW3KHuGZLi-2RNqlp_A1iMN2OT-qBlONKQnknKPxY_ooA-SzUr3RBwA5MDC-9PZDXB8Zs5ZNVoY9L9MpJfQVw6x1GJxOdioCsHxdy4jJtvVszIcKZjvTXJIqfUq8PUIMW3BWo-KLVyLtD1_k1HbzA/s360/lion's%20mane.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="360" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNRFcPHPNccRBp44S__xmWrC5dIF2vcm437sYwsuLW3KHuGZLi-2RNqlp_A1iMN2OT-qBlONKQnknKPxY_ooA-SzUr3RBwA5MDC-9PZDXB8Zs5ZNVoY9L9MpJfQVw6x1GJxOdioCsHxdy4jJtvVszIcKZjvTXJIqfUq8PUIMW3BWo-KLVyLtD1_k1HbzA/w400-h266/lion's%20mane.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the unusual ingredients we add to our cereal is dried Lion's Mane mushroom. <a href="https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/lions-mane-mushroom#depression-and-anxiety" target="_blank">LINK: Health Benefits of Lion's Mane)</a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Nooks and Crannies special toppings</b>:</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><b>These are all added <i>after cooking </i></b><b>(</b><b>to preserve their maximal nutritional value)</b><b>.</b> <b> </b></p><p><b>pre-ground seed and nut mix</b> - our current mix contains <b>nine ingredients -</b> all organically grown seeds and nuts<b>.</b> We <b>pre-grind and pre-mix it</b> so, at the time of making the cereal, we just put a TBSP on each serving of cereal <b>(to make your own, see below)</b>.<br /><b>dried and powdered turmeric </b>-
scant 1/8 tsp. - this is purported to provide anti-inflammatory relief
(and a host of other benefits). We bought a big bag of it when we found
it on sale but then found that its flavor got in the way of us using it
regularly. By adding just this tiny amount to our cereal, it doesn't affect the flavor and we figure that having a tiny bit each day is
better than none at all.<br /><b>dried and powdered lion's mane mushrooms </b>-
scant 1/8 tsp. - though not as strong flavored as the turmeric and
touted as having equally impressive health benefits (particularly for
the neurological system) we just weren't eating it! So, now we get a
little bit almost daily with our cereal.<br /><b>dried coconut flour </b>- 1 TBSP per serving - adds sweetness and protein<br /><b>maple syrup</b> - for many people, the dried fruit will make your cereal plenty sweet but we still like to add maple syrup after cooking<br /><b>soy milk </b>and/or <b>nut milk </b>-
we've gone through phases of making our own but can't seem to use it
fast enough to balance out the hassle of prep-time. It's frustrating
when it spoils before we use it up and we have to throw some of it
away. So for
now, we settle for commercial soy and nut milks. <br /></p><p></p><p></p><p><b></b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt4vX4ufndjRM80FTy8C4oh4YS0RfGtS1ywmJUdl-_wY1mYuqVBDupDa50R2pdCu0T98BBE4F_jCLn7cLSS3hdyuOBFw6NWwj6EGI-8N9U8SIE_ju-5aZF-0F3Ros9a3R1ZVIQ5YUMbccPWmJILzQt5iHSTLIEVbaIykC07bDPzV0r5ezMFJnGwQZGplQ/s455/Llyn%20-%20corn-seed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="455" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt4vX4ufndjRM80FTy8C4oh4YS0RfGtS1ywmJUdl-_wY1mYuqVBDupDa50R2pdCu0T98BBE4F_jCLn7cLSS3hdyuOBFw6NWwj6EGI-8N9U8SIE_ju-5aZF-0F3Ros9a3R1ZVIQ5YUMbccPWmJILzQt5iHSTLIEVbaIykC07bDPzV0r5ezMFJnGwQZGplQ/s320/Llyn%20-%20corn-seed.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Making the cereal: </span></b>As I mentioned above, <b>the base for Nooks and Crannies is grains and dried/frozen fruit. </b>(left: Llyn with home-grown blue corn)<br /><p></p><p><b>I make the cereal in two steps:</b> <b>The first step</b> is to<b> cook the grains and dried fruits</b> together.<b> After they're done, I add a bunch more toppings </b>(above)<b>.</b><br /><b><br /></b>As a rule of thumb, <b>you'll want <i>about</i> 2 -parts water to 1-part dry ingredients.</b> I start out with a 2:1 ratio but usually end up adding more
water while the cereal simmers. <b>I always start with, and add heated water</b> so as not to retard
the cooking process. </p><p><b>The key to swift morning prep-time is to have some of the ingredients
pre-ground and pre-mixed</b> <b> - the grain mix and the seed/nut mix </b>(see below)<b>. </b>This makes the daily prep much faster as we just need a scoop or spoonful of each. </p><p><b>We
have all the ingredients stored close together in jars with lids </b>so I
can just open each one and add a handful to the pot. The <b>frozen
fruits are also kept in jars</b>; I just find it easier to open and close a
jar than to mess with freezer bags (that zip closed) or twist-ties
(which aren't air-tight). <br /></p><p><b>So I go down the line of jars and
add everything to the pot.</b> The only thing I actually use a measuring cup
for is the grain-mix (corn and sorghum). Everything else I just scoop
out little (or big!) handfuls with my hands. You'll find what works best
for you.</p><b>If time is an issue in your morning routine</b>, <b>pre-soak</b> the grains and fruit overnight and add some hot water in the morning and simmer till done.<p><b>Basic recipe: (serves two adults)</b></p><p>1/2 cup <b>rolled oats<br /></b>1/2 cup<b> pre-mixed cornmeal/medium-ground sorghum </b>(We
grow, grind and pre-mix this combo. If you don't have
access to a grain-grinder, just buy the grains ahead of time and pre-mix
them in the following ratio:<b> </b><b>1 part each: blue corn meal, yellow corn meal, sorghum meal)<br /></b>3/4 cup<b> dried/frozen fruits </b>and <b>other goodies</b> (for ideas, see below)<b><br /></b>2 cups <b>hot water<br /></b>Add a pinch of<b> salt</b><br /><b>Pour hot water on dry ingredients, stir, cover and place on very low heat, simmering for 10-20 minutes.</b><br /><b>Add more hot water</b> if it's getting too thick, stirring occasionally.<br /><b>After 10-20 minutes of simmering, turn heat off and leave covered for another 10 min.</b> It will continue to cook. <br />Add<b> Nooks and Crannies special toppings</b> (listed above) and serve.</p><div style="text-align: left;"> <b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqm3TwU5h7EC9qUq8TdhwIdCYbEEB1Izq9rcEA5KXUHG-sReyxlbp6T75EuBIwv3THgx50iKf3ZFE95i9i8ItEdwWziWXMhSLqGH8QGTAWhbeqUURGshN0YTxixmZhw3FfgSO9MB2FDs0Mtfy_XO93_qnd-CdIFad6GvuViXh2LdoB3UhpIcCgp7owQZU/s3006/harv-grapes%202020.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2337" data-original-width="3006" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqm3TwU5h7EC9qUq8TdhwIdCYbEEB1Izq9rcEA5KXUHG-sReyxlbp6T75EuBIwv3THgx50iKf3ZFE95i9i8ItEdwWziWXMhSLqGH8QGTAWhbeqUURGshN0YTxixmZhw3FfgSO9MB2FDs0Mtfy_XO93_qnd-CdIFad6GvuViXh2LdoB3UhpIcCgp7owQZU/w200-h156/harv-grapes%202020.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></b><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Ideas for dried fruits and other goodies:</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b>Just choose a combination that pleases you -about 3/4 cup total. Here's what we use:<br /><b><span> </span><span> </span>raisins - </b>(pictured left: the year we made raisins out of our own grapes. Very time-consuming and not worth it. Now we buy them but we <i>could </i>make them if we had to...)<br /><span> <b> </b></span><b>dried pears</b><br /><span> </span><b>dried figs</b><br /><span> <b> </b></span><b>dried date pieces coated in oat flour</b> - (these are found in the bulk section)<br /><span> <b> </b></span><b>prunes</b>
- I read somewhere that a few of these a day is especially good for
bone density...We all know the other health benefit their known
for...regularity!<br /><span> </span><b>dried bananas - </b>Sometimes bananas will be sold at a
huge discount if they become too ripe so we dehydrate a bunch of them
for later use. <p></p></div><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcfPcfpeItE39Y0ymvEmD4s-rn9AgMF1CbltV4oiywzqY_ZX6p326d0Wgu-ahScky8IatLtFr8skLt_zZk_SvIjNnOP6QKoRi84NJffxzHaviQrml8oGO3xDCcheyo2qVU1w_pypT_Q2RZwfE6TeBtiy8WQgYdQPoieaYDRydgFzqJU8ySKqvF2enPYbuc/s2231/HV.strawberries,front%20yard.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2231" data-original-width="2228" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcfPcfpeItE39Y0ymvEmD4s-rn9AgMF1CbltV4oiywzqY_ZX6p326d0Wgu-ahScky8IatLtFr8skLt_zZk_SvIjNnOP6QKoRi84NJffxzHaviQrml8oGO3xDCcheyo2qVU1w_pypT_Q2RZwfE6TeBtiy8WQgYdQPoieaYDRydgFzqJU8ySKqvF2enPYbuc/w200-h200/HV.strawberries,front%20yard.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Other goodies:</span> </b>these I also add before cooking...<br /><b>dried shredded coconut </b>- just a small handful<br /><b>cacao nibs </b>- they're a bit bitter but highly nutritious so I just put about 1 rounded teaspoon per double person serving.<br /><b>frozen blueberries or strawberries - </b>(left: strawberries from our garden, frozen on a tray. They are SO full of flavor!)<br /><p></p><p><b>After 10-20 minutes of simmering, turn heat off and leave covered for another 10 min. It will continue to cook. <br />Add bonus toppings (listed above) and serve.</b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><u></u></span></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVm5fZgxuB4I5KmoJj7d4QxAWdZSqP2sixKdNRilnyJv_cTyYHYxOSoA7FCIDrr4VMKwnC-CAj028Ozwocg518xDWEFba56Mq8LV9RLLOqjqjQw_ndwrLPYwwlBXJe54F1Ba6hpRvG4HFSdUENDjcIi318vUBU9xN5ikXVCqbDk6EbcjAgkq_RHOhYquR9/s2965/HV-sorghum%20drying.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1988" data-original-width="2965" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVm5fZgxuB4I5KmoJj7d4QxAWdZSqP2sixKdNRilnyJv_cTyYHYxOSoA7FCIDrr4VMKwnC-CAj028Ozwocg518xDWEFba56Mq8LV9RLLOqjqjQw_ndwrLPYwwlBXJe54F1Ba6hpRvG4HFSdUENDjcIi318vUBU9xN5ikXVCqbDk6EbcjAgkq_RHOhYquR9/w400-h269/HV-sorghum%20drying.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorghum drying. We grow our own, dry it and grind it for cereal and baking.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></b></p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Pre-ground seed mix:</span></b> (Added <i>after </i>the grains and fruits are cooked - 1 TBSP per serving) As mentioned above, <b>we save on morning prep-time by having the following
ingredients pre-ground and mixed.</b> Seeds are incredibly nutrient-dense. They need to be as they hold everything the little plant needs to get started in life! Be sure and consume only organically grown seeds...Better for you; better for the Earth.<br /></p><p><b>We pre-grind and pre-mix this combo in advance and freeze the surplus.</b> Seeds (and nuts), once ground can lose a lot of their nutrients quickly if exposed to air or heat. </p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AclsQ0mCObtlgtPARGzEgL0k6GLqGosuUd-CbG2iEC3S1dNHc7Qqn5q-4a_K63CfpK-tj0j6vugUDGjmEox_PniODbbdckJzNivKArUhMlDvZikJeJFM8yHE1DX0aVhTj9-B7_eQjb0iy3pqkbXVp1y_h__xWv3MbqXiykK-OJJVSToGxLnPSjQH14Tp/s554/v-Llyn-amaranth-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="476" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AclsQ0mCObtlgtPARGzEgL0k6GLqGosuUd-CbG2iEC3S1dNHc7Qqn5q-4a_K63CfpK-tj0j6vugUDGjmEox_PniODbbdckJzNivKArUhMlDvZikJeJFM8yHE1DX0aVhTj9-B7_eQjb0iy3pqkbXVp1y_h__xWv3MbqXiykK-OJJVSToGxLnPSjQH14Tp/s320/v-Llyn-amaranth-.jpg" width="275" /></a></b></div><b>We use an electric coffee-grinder to grind the seeds.</b> <b>We have one that is specifically dedicated to this so it doesn't pick up the taste of coffee.</b> Of the following list, the only thing we grow ourselves are the two kinds of amaranth (Right: Llyn with Hopi Red Dye Amaranth). Everything else is store-bought. We buy them in bulk. As you'll see,<b> almost half the mix is composed of flax seeds</b>. <br /><b><br />A tip for grinding:</b> Measure out all the seeds and combine in a bowl or large measuring cup. Mix them well and scoop out the amount that fits in your grinder. Grind, and pour into another bowl. Scoop more/grind/pour etc. <b>By mixing the flax seeds in with the other seeds the grinder won't get as bogged down with the seeds that are high in oils</b> (especially sesame seeds). <b>Store in airtight containers in your fridge or freezer.</b><br /><p></p><p><b>Here's the combo of seeds we use:</b></p><p>4 parts <b>flax seeds</b> - We love their flavor; they're great for digestion and give a sense of bulk/fluff to the cereal. I can't even remember all the reasons they're good for you (but there are a lot of them!) so that's why it forms the foundation of the seed mix. <br />2 parts <b>pumpkin seeds </b><b>- </b>raw, unsalted<br />2 parts <b>sunflower seeds </b><b>- </b>raw, unsalted<br />1 part <b>sesame seeds</b><b> </b>- we use the brown ones as they've not had their hulls removed so they are more nutritious than the white ones <br />1 part <b>hemp hearts</b><b> - </b>these are soft, inner parts of the hemp seeds after removing the outer shell/hull - highly nutritious. (Be sure to get the <i>hulled</i> seeds as those that still have their seed coating are a bit bitter. <a href="https://www.verywellfit.com/hemp-hearts-nutrition-facts-4585190" target="_blank">LINK</a>) <br />1 part <b>chia seeds</b><br />1/2 part <b>poppy seeds</b><br />1/2 part <b>Golden Amaranth</b> - we grow this ourselves - sweet and nutty flavored<br />1/2 part <b>Hopi Red Dye amaranth</b> - this doesn't taste as sweet as the Golden amaranth but it volunteers all over our garden so we might as well harvest, dry it and eat it! <br /><span><b> </b></span></p><p><b><span></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkN8m7Jb-lFbFVN4sUL2DdX9cBO_alx6_LH3jpNaeULzewJ5LvH_tHDP2hDV9ZfS7XKVV_wc0-FESPIpiNhyJwvJizPzj5lyFAFCBhlS9yxpHNVi7hx8R9vNqUYSmL9K7Q1B1kHQP6XJKRyCIabDs9rslLdRZhfQ1PJZYqKq5Zcbsbcax4eZcqgjjxBpsG/s2842/Grinder-motor.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2842" data-original-width="2027" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkN8m7Jb-lFbFVN4sUL2DdX9cBO_alx6_LH3jpNaeULzewJ5LvH_tHDP2hDV9ZfS7XKVV_wc0-FESPIpiNhyJwvJizPzj5lyFAFCBhlS9yxpHNVi7hx8R9vNqUYSmL9K7Q1B1kHQP6XJKRyCIabDs9rslLdRZhfQ1PJZYqKq5Zcbsbcax4eZcqgjjxBpsG/s320/Grinder-motor.jpg" width="228" /></a><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></b></div><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Grain mix: </span></b>(<i>cooked</i> with rolled oats and dried fruit) (right: Daimant grain mill we use to grind our corn and sorghum).<b><br /><br />We grow, process and grind the blue corn, yellow corn and sorghum ourselves.</b> We grind them courser than a flour...more like a "meal" (we like the texture and at this level of coarseness it doesn't take too long to cook). <br /></p><p><b>We grind and mix up a few gallons of this grain mix at a time and store half of it in the fridge to maintain freshness.</b> The other half, we keep outside the fridge for easy access when we're assembling the morning cereal.</p><p></p>2 parts ground <b>blue corn</b> - (higher in protein than yellow corn meal; turns your cereal a delightful purple!) (LINK: <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/10/grow-your-own-blue-corn.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn' </a></b>) (left: Llyn with dried blue corn, before grinding)<br />2 parts ground <b>yellow corn</b><br />1 part <b>Kassaby sorghum</b> - sweet, long-season sorghum<br />1 part <b>BaYeKi sorghum</b> - not as sweet; used primarily for baking (LINK: <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/11/grow-your-own-sorghum-for-grain-and.html" target="_blank">Grow your own Sorghum for grain and flour</a>)</b><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjTHI7jPJVW6Gbm3wCF7L-HblwtYNRxSrKMHi2RDdX4VnZyCMEK1ebHTCwlX0pIfQyS0ZoNViPHPcWE4AYBCYnz3WAG4edL1gK12-qC-NLZZwMfdF_hefFbRQbvSNq9OGj4GBFo_5wtrR9HoPEG8GclXJjw_259-ZYZ-gjXKIYXXrpQvQyJj9g5a1aiKc/s250/Affordable%20Healthcare.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="250" data-original-width="166" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjTHI7jPJVW6Gbm3wCF7L-HblwtYNRxSrKMHi2RDdX4VnZyCMEK1ebHTCwlX0pIfQyS0ZoNViPHPcWE4AYBCYnz3WAG4edL1gK12-qC-NLZZwMfdF_hefFbRQbvSNq9OGj4GBFo_5wtrR9HoPEG8GclXJjw_259-ZYZ-gjXKIYXXrpQvQyJj9g5a1aiKc/s1600/Affordable%20Healthcare.jpg" width="166" /></a><b></b><b>This post isn't meant to suggest a rigid rule for making 'Nooks and Crannies' but to inspire you in your own breakfast cereal creations. Enjoy!</b></p>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-1170195245723113162024-01-23T14:25:00.000-08:002024-01-25T10:06:44.303-08:00Why We Grow and Eat "Organic" Food <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Organics - Better for Health!</td></tr>
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</div>Here we are at the New Year 2023; time to commit to new Resolutions. If you've been wanting to increase the amount of<br />
organically grown foods in your diet this article is for you! Here are many reasons including the beneficial effects on the environment, the people who grow and harvest our food, the animals raised to provide food and your own health. Thank you for taking this important step in your life.<br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
Chris and I eat almost exclusively organically grown foods when we're at home. At 73 and 60 years old respectively(Feb. 2023), we are both very healthy. We take no prescription medications and, in fact had a bottle of aspirin pass it's expiration date in our medicine cabinet once because we were too slow in using it for occasional muscle soreness or headaches! We each have had three colds in the last 16 years but no other illnesses that caused us to be bed-ridden for even a day. <b>Our food is our medicine</b> (along with other healthy lifestyle habits including meditation, stretching and exercise practices and a generous lifestyle geared towards service) and <b>we feel strongly that a societal shift towards an organic, whole foods, plant-based diet would have significant positive effects both on people's personal health and the health of the natural environment as well.</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image credit: Maria-Marlowe</td></tr>
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We <i>are</i> at an advantage over most people as our large gardens provide a
high percentage of the foods we eat but for many years <b>we have made it a priority to let our food-budget reflect our values</b> and<b> we <i>only</i> buy groceries that are organically grown</b>. The only times we don't eat organic are when we eat out at restaurants or are visiting friends, which amounts to two or three times per month. <br />
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<b>This post offers an overview of what we feel to be the most important reasons to shift to an organic diet.</b> <b>For those readers who have the financial means to make this shift entirely, we encourage you to jump into an organic life-style whole-heartedly.</b> We also encourage you to <b>cultivate relationships with local farmers</b> through shopping at farmer's markets and co-ops that feature local, organic foods or joining a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture). See also: <a href="https://www.naturalnews.com/2020-01-18-7-tips-for-shopping-at-a-farmers-market.html" target="_blank">Seven Tips for Shopping at a Farmer's Market</a><br />
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We realize that, <b>for many people who are living close to the edge financially, that committing to buying all your groceries organically-grown may be impossible at this time.</b> <b>If that is the case, consider making smaller incremental changes</b> such as committing to<b> only buying organically and humanely produced <i>animal products</i> </b>(where farm chemicals become most concentrated) <b>or only buying organic <i>"treat foods"</i> </b>(whatever that means for you). Their higher prices may encourage you to eat less of these items which will be<b> better for your own health and for the health of the planet.</b><br />
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Another option to increase your intake of organic garden-produce is to<b> start your own garden</b>, or start or join a community-garden. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/p/so-you-want-to-start-sharing-garden_9.html" target="_blank">LINK: So, you want to start a Sharing Garden</a>. <br />
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We like to remind ourselves as we adopt new lifestyle choices that <b>"it's a direction, not perfection."</b> <b>Be gentle on yourself </b>as you make new changes and,<b> if sometimes you decide to eat something on your "no-no list", do it consciously, do it with joy and then re-commit to following your chosen dietary guidelines once again. Happy eating!</b><br />
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<u><b>So, here are some of the top reasons we feel it is important to eat organically grown foods.</b></u><br />
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<b>Healthier for you:</b> Ingesting farm chemical residues isn't good for your
health<i>.</i> Many of these chemicals can build up in one's tissues over time so,
even though we may only eat small amounts with each meal, their
accumulated amounts can be significant over a life-time. Also, children
tend to be more susceptible to environmental toxins as they are building new tissues at a faster rate than adults. <a href="https://www.panna.org/resources/pesticides-our-bodies" target="_blank">LINK-Pesticide Action Network </a><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Any farmer who grows "organically" may not use herbicides, pesticides
or fungicides - unless they have been approved by the
organic-certification agencies.</b></blockquote>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slow-grown food is more nutrient-dense.</td></tr>
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<b>More nutrient dense?</b>
The truth is, most organic-farmers struggle under the same competitive
conditions as farmers who grow using conventional practices. This means,
they need to invest <i>the least </i>amount of money in fertilizers and other
soil amendments, and grow their produce as fast as possible, to get it
to market ahead of their competitors to make <i>the most</i> profit. These practices lead to more "water-weight" and less
nutrient-dense foods. This means
that the vitamin/mineral content may not vary much between organic and conventional farmers.<i> </i> On the other hand, <b>some studies suggest that, on average, organically-grown produce <i>is</i> consistently more nutrient-dense <i>and</i> lower in pesticides and heavy metals</b>. <a href="https://ndnr.com/botanical-medicine/nutrient-levels-in-organic-vs-conventional-foods/" target="_blank">Nutrient Levels in Organic vs. Conventional Foods</a><br />
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This is <b>why it is important to </b><i><b>know your farmer</b></i> so you can <b>confirm
that their food is <i>slow-grown</i> and that the farmers are <i>replacing the minerals</i>
that get depleted in their soil from harvesting crops</b>. </blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4z0gPM31rX-PC_sohKoLV2DQgQwlZ3EVYEuxxrZN3mDlJiNflHX5Z__bmYbwKon2oue_GrcKU7GQypfoUAOwWtCnftuGkztnID_VB17BBMl6doYTK2MlcoYK05tXwT3iVtV4bFKs4l7u/s1600/Gini-compost+tea.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1346" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4z0gPM31rX-PC_sohKoLV2DQgQwlZ3EVYEuxxrZN3mDlJiNflHX5Z__bmYbwKon2oue_GrcKU7GQypfoUAOwWtCnftuGkztnID_VB17BBMl6doYTK2MlcoYK05tXwT3iVtV4bFKs4l7u/s400/Gini-compost+tea.jpg" width="336" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding compost-tea to our gardens is one way we replace many of the nutrients that are depleted through harvesting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>GMO versus organically-grown:</b> There is still debate about whether foods produced from Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO's) are a health risk to humans. <i>We</i>
are strongly opposed to them because of the compelling
research pointing to the possibility that eating GM plants, or livestock raised on GMO feed can lead to leaky-gut
syndrome and a whole slew of health problems including severe
food-allergies, learning disabilities and autism-spectrum disorders in
children. <a href="https://responsibletechnology.org/?s=autism" target="_blank">Autism and GMO's</a> <a href="https://responsibletechnology.org/" target="_blank">LINK Institute for Responsible Technology</a><a href="https://responsibletechnology.org/" target="_blank"><u>-a GMO watchdog group.</u></a> Genetically Modified plants and animals have the potential of interbreeding with plants and animals that were not genetically modified, with unforeseen consequences. Some GM plants (corn and soy) are specifically bred to be
resistant to Round-up and other herbicides meaning large amounts of
these chemicals can be used to grow them. This leads to well-documented cases of super-weeds that have become resistant to herbicides and require ever stronger chemicals to keep them in check. <a href="https://healthimpactnews.com/2011/the-dangers-of-roundup-ready-food/" target="_blank">LINK: The Dangers of Round-up Ready Foods</a>, <a href="http://non-gmoreport.com/article-categories/gmo-health-risks/" target="_blank">LINK-GMO Health Risks </a> Also, GM corn and soy are
used extensively in livestock-feed so
you can imagine how these farm-chemicals concentrate in their tissues.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>We feel strongly that it is important to <i>avoid eating any</i> genetically modified plants. We feel it is <i>especially</i> <i>important</i> to avoid eating animal-products (meat, dairy, eggs) from animals fed on GM feed.</b> </blockquote>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazxEPNrjOwuSRpftzaRmdJYPhsvB2aGAcUw0tAiOgJBMZJ4o9aXgzlMaMoFmgc1gwCzqG43OdAMvxUIdOHLlay72meSpZGevtglDNKx37f2-F7nXZJDmcevLhkZHzKyq5yhqmLVprbHt5/s1600/GP-aug+2019.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazxEPNrjOwuSRpftzaRmdJYPhsvB2aGAcUw0tAiOgJBMZJ4o9aXgzlMaMoFmgc1gwCzqG43OdAMvxUIdOHLlay72meSpZGevtglDNKx37f2-F7nXZJDmcevLhkZHzKyq5yhqmLVprbHt5/s320/GP-aug+2019.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharing Gardens - 2019</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>But what about just eating non-GM foods?</b> Well yes, this is a step in the right direction but <b>just because something is non-GMO does <i>not</i>
mean that it's grown without farm chemicals</b>. Industrialized farming uses plenty of chemicals in growing the food. Did you
know that it is also a legal practice for farmers to use Round-up as a desiccant (which causes withering and drying in
plant tissues) to artificially dry crops if conditions are too wet for the crops to fully ripen in the field? <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_desiccation" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">LINK-Wikipedia</a>, <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/roundup-cancer-1882187755.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">LINK-EcoWatch</a>.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
By definition, <b>organic farmers are not allowed to grow Genetically Modified crops, or feed them to their livestock</b>.</blockquote>
<b><u>Better for the environment.</u> </b>Anyone
following the news knows that our environment is under attack from all
sides. Industrial farming is one of the biggest culprits.<br />
<br />
<b>Pollinators
are under siege</b> from the practices of growing "mono-crops" (all one
variety) for thousands of acres, offering no variety in their diet of
pollen, and many farm-chemicals are damaging to their health
as well. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/05/why-growing-sunflowers-is-great-for-bees.html" target="_blank">LINK - Why growing sunflowers is great for bees.</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdcNCqYwyjOv5HhWprMgjpudrkeguy8nC_kAOrCTyfWas_zAFEDHVutUpbeaLlWuBl3j9jdY0dGSURgjB_o75AVXwj7UEdG8F4sPv_IO1rdHIT3r3HxztoopTTl6RSfLxpmTBhjuEeILa/s1600/CU-tansy-honeybee.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="1600" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdcNCqYwyjOv5HhWprMgjpudrkeguy8nC_kAOrCTyfWas_zAFEDHVutUpbeaLlWuBl3j9jdY0dGSURgjB_o75AVXwj7UEdG8F4sPv_IO1rdHIT3r3HxztoopTTl6RSfLxpmTBhjuEeILa/s400/CU-tansy-honeybee.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honey-bee on tansy. We let some weeds flower in our garden intentionally as they provide important pollen-food for beneficial insects. Here's some good news: <a href="https://www.positive.news/environment/grassroots-bee-petition-forces-greener-farming-measures-in-bavaria/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Grassroots bee petition in Bavaria forces greener farming practices: </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i><b>Soil health:</b> </i>Industrial farming - through over-tilling and depleting<i> soil
</i>of organic matter makes soils void of all life and destroys the
structure of the soil itself which no amount of added fertilizers and
chemicals can restore.<br />
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxIp21nhSf90M2fyzn9ExfeCfpqBUDP9KxRmeYAC9A4LbciZaa-haXFYNWjowHK-QKPCXxajdDmJh7pWzXYqJjgxsUQmTB6IfC0BM6UVljyF9N6nxEOOiPHWTBYG9h9UQy9dgVFYTjuiJ/s1600/hands-worm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxIp21nhSf90M2fyzn9ExfeCfpqBUDP9KxRmeYAC9A4LbciZaa-haXFYNWjowHK-QKPCXxajdDmJh7pWzXYqJjgxsUQmTB6IfC0BM6UVljyF9N6nxEOOiPHWTBYG9h9UQy9dgVFYTjuiJ/s400/hands-worm.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Healthy soil means healthy soil-organisms. Eight-year old, Ricardo holds an earthworm found in our gardens.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Industrial farming is a major source of <b>water-pollution</b></i>. Industrial farming has negative effects on the world's water for many reasons. Here are a few: Heavy Metals build-up; Algae Blooms, Dead-zones and Acidification; Nitrates; Pathogens and Over-use of water reducing water-levels in our aquifers. (<a href="https://foodprint.org/issues/how-industrial-agriculture-affects-our-water/" target="_blank">LINK-How Industrial Agriculture Effects Our Water</a>) <br />
<br />
<b><i>Many bird species</i></b> have a hard time finding
enough insects to feed their young. Farm chemicals tend to concentrate in the tissues of animals, the higher-up you go in the food chain as Rachel Carson so famously proved
in her landmark book from the 1960's titled <i><a href="https://rachelcarson.org/SilentSpring.aspx" target="_blank">Silent Spring</a>.</i> <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtd9MliYQKHJ1ROcaRMQNRQ-SvxfCQBQyLj59rJ4CUxB5epIvLpMERsFQF5O2F7o9iws5NInkK8MtOhveNZf-IPeM-HUr81QIJsVO6POQQPTD8YQke-DoJgcNbINJzTYNgHxFabThdY0Kv/s1600/v-thorin-Eliza-Adri-cabbage-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="1600" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtd9MliYQKHJ1ROcaRMQNRQ-SvxfCQBQyLj59rJ4CUxB5epIvLpMERsFQF5O2F7o9iws5NInkK8MtOhveNZf-IPeM-HUr81QIJsVO6POQQPTD8YQke-DoJgcNbINJzTYNgHxFabThdY0Kv/s400/v-thorin-Eliza-Adri-cabbage-.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thorin, Eliza and Adri harvest cabbage, 2018.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Be
aware too, that this principle of <i>chemicals concentrating in tissues
</i>applies to foods raised for human consumption too.</b> The accumulation of <b>
these chemicals in our own bodies will therefore be <i>less with a plant-based diet</i>.</b>
The more meat, dairy and eggs one eats, that are<i> not </i>organically-raised,
the higher concentrations people have in their bodies of these chemicals. Bear in mind too
that the <i>quality of life </i>for livestock animals grown organically is
more humane as well.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Organic farming practices keep our air, water and soil healthier and can even contribute to the increase of viable habitat for wild plant and animal species.</b></blockquote>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnXPsInlDaNFDFd8SEmvacLo6TgZu_01VbdX2w_19lyPtN1ZrhG7lvnZ10FTeIHdeDffRr4xxSf9ArnWFKNlqQke1LZm0otcAWtKsp9xoUYakWV0rG_luM75P-1Kdd68mx_yDgcrAgVpS/s1600/v-group-potato+dig-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnXPsInlDaNFDFd8SEmvacLo6TgZu_01VbdX2w_19lyPtN1ZrhG7lvnZ10FTeIHdeDffRr4xxSf9ArnWFKNlqQke1LZm0otcAWtKsp9xoUYakWV0rG_luM75P-1Kdd68mx_yDgcrAgVpS/s400/v-group-potato+dig-.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Organic farming is <i>better for the farmers
and farm-workers who grow our food</i>. Sharing Gardens volunteers digging potatoes 2018.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<b>Healthier for the farmers and farm-workers: When we use our purchasing power
to make a statement about our values, we are directly contributing to
healthier lifestyles for everyone involved in the food-growing
community.</b> <a href="https://serc.carleton.edu/NAGTWorkshops/health/case_studies/pesticides.html" target="_blank">LINK - Agricultural Chemicals and Human Health</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsGVnis5HHhxLx4R0d8IsCli-ImhbVMn7-49_7c4jZ72Y8AQF-x_lIHwQmPexPMONJxX-Ec1gFwmeFr_75g_owFh0RJsp5rvqSg-l1PxdGje84AK4X7XCbdga8TZaHfo9tlHeBwQSfDES/s1600/Eat+for+disease+or+health.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="256" data-original-width="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsGVnis5HHhxLx4R0d8IsCli-ImhbVMn7-49_7c4jZ72Y8AQF-x_lIHwQmPexPMONJxX-Ec1gFwmeFr_75g_owFh0RJsp5rvqSg-l1PxdGje84AK4X7XCbdga8TZaHfo9tlHeBwQSfDES/s1600/Eat+for+disease+or+health.jpg" /></a></div>
In this complex world of competing dietary studies which often offer contradictory results <b>it can be difficult to know who to trust </b>and which dietary practices will be best for your health and the health of the environment on which every living things depends.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
If you have been feeling on the fence about whether to make the commitment to
eating more organically-grown foods, we hope this post has helped you
make that shift. Just remember that wise saying, "You can either pay
your farmer <i>now</i>, or pay your doctor <i>later</i>." We think this is good advice.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJV7T0o9lv-GuQPuXdH8CxdlPPXQ5-2lnelTpZyu_NzfXSCDHdPpggPxzDzj04ODLaWL-2Hpc12LMprH9rASrXomaVNFDrPZKwNM78mxBxDoggI-SFo5M4Edkn9uKFjVRYs9jksbPtg83/s1600/chris-llyn-9-2017-square.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1597" data-original-width="1600" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJV7T0o9lv-GuQPuXdH8CxdlPPXQ5-2lnelTpZyu_NzfXSCDHdPpggPxzDzj04ODLaWL-2Hpc12LMprH9rASrXomaVNFDrPZKwNM78mxBxDoggI-SFo5M4Edkn9uKFjVRYs9jksbPtg83/w400-h399/chris-llyn-9-2017-square.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Get to know your farmers! Chris and Llyn in the <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sharing Gardens</a>, your friendly, neighborhood "farm-acists".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTTlP3CSePOz2wCe8P2qN1KNOxdIIdTnUtD8fGky8bb_YiAsvsBqrDbRBRpIIo3gAK7zD83_wiU8p67iEobwHzusYpsGq4_US30OE5o9FQN7ocOVsW3Wvd7eP8Xhx0xt0jLFhppirkz_ZW/s1600/Food-medicine-Hippocrates.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="474" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTTlP3CSePOz2wCe8P2qN1KNOxdIIdTnUtD8fGky8bb_YiAsvsBqrDbRBRpIIo3gAK7zD83_wiU8p67iEobwHzusYpsGq4_US30OE5o9FQN7ocOVsW3Wvd7eP8Xhx0xt0jLFhppirkz_ZW/s400/Food-medicine-Hippocrates.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRjWgR68BY70VSJ64HfNf5Ear_BC9eQbJB0FUt0GNEYCc-j8yPxWMYo6lZlBCspd-w_un_r7htEf-vekRVXS4A0ZqvBJiIVaztontADt8yTvojYoh6b7Y5UUqYR_w325znHUNq3Y3FM6e/s1600/Bella-kale+raab.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRjWgR68BY70VSJ64HfNf5Ear_BC9eQbJB0FUt0GNEYCc-j8yPxWMYo6lZlBCspd-w_un_r7htEf-vekRVXS4A0ZqvBJiIVaztontADt8yTvojYoh6b7Y5UUqYR_w325znHUNq3Y3FM6e/s320/Bella-kale+raab.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bella loves kale!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Other relevant LINKS:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0013935119300246" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Organic diet intervention significantly reduces urinary pesticide levels in U.S. children and adults - Science Direct </a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/feb/15/what-the-pesticides-in-our-urine-tell-us-about-organic-food" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">What the pesticides in our urine tell us about organic food - The Guardian</a><br />
<a href="https://www.zerohedge.com/news/2019-03-27/state-america-use-most-and-least-glyphosate?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+zerohedge%2Ffeed+%28zero+hedge+-+on+a+long+enough+timeline%2C+the+survival+rate+for+everyone+drops+to+zero%29" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="https://www.zerohedge.com/news/2019-03-27/state-america-use-most-and-least-glyphosate?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+zerohedge%2Ffeed+%28zero+hedge+-+on+a+long+enough+timeline%2C+the+survival+rate+for+everyone+drops+to+zero%29" target="_blank">The States in America That Use the Most (and Least) Glyphosate - Zero Hedge</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.activistpost.com/2019/04/whats-in-standard-fast-food-chain-restaurants-menus-seriously-is-it-safe-to-eat.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">What's in standard 'fast food'?</a><br /> <br />
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</div>
</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><a href="https://foodrevolution.org/blog/how-to-wash-vegetables-fruits/" target="_blank">How to Wash Vegetables and Fruits to Remove Pesticides</a></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><a href="https://www.naturalblaze.com/2022/01/harmful-ingredients-in-healthy-breakfast-cereals.html" target="_blank">Harmful Ingredients in “Healthy” Breakfast Cereals</a> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzaIqenBe5YYaJSjMFTYAPssYXQ0F4unzOD8S-JiffNdR9ZfSon0CPWnj8aZ3wOIpqZNek_sSiyl_REyxq_SjfJwLA1UY63lkQ0Izn-QwW9Qbe9eZoFcHFSwvtC0fb167SjNW2oAggb3Pt/s1600/Caleb+loves-radishes.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1283" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzaIqenBe5YYaJSjMFTYAPssYXQ0F4unzOD8S-JiffNdR9ZfSon0CPWnj8aZ3wOIpqZNek_sSiyl_REyxq_SjfJwLA1UY63lkQ0Izn-QwW9Qbe9eZoFcHFSwvtC0fb167SjNW2oAggb3Pt/s200/Caleb+loves-radishes.jpg" width="160" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com8Monroe's Sharing Garden, 664 Orchard St, Monroe, OR 97456, USA44.313268 -123.2998610000000221.128677500000002 -164.60845500000002 67.4978585 -81.991267000000022tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-42828651067731324792024-01-22T12:13:00.000-08:002024-01-25T10:10:48.590-08:00Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrqkepBeTMP7VvOuS_nNpGP0RRYRK7MSt94wSRZcuALOX4sUE6YNdCGM9zbp2056BDqugNcrebuP1Yhu-gk1Nd7U6E_ByKm0Lwv-jDiAH_r5nhRSR86R-bU2I9BTZyzrw3-s-n2xgH9CfA/s1600/Jim-corn+husking-.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrqkepBeTMP7VvOuS_nNpGP0RRYRK7MSt94wSRZcuALOX4sUE6YNdCGM9zbp2056BDqugNcrebuP1Yhu-gk1Nd7U6E_ByKm0Lwv-jDiAH_r5nhRSR86R-bU2I9BTZyzrw3-s-n2xgH9CfA/s320/Jim-corn+husking-.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim husks blue corn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Part
of becoming more self-sufficient has been to grow our own
corn-meal. We chose an heirloom-variety of blue corn called Hooker's
Blue because it's easy to grow, has high yields and makes delicious
corn-meal that can be used as hot cereal, and in baked goods such as
corn
bread and pancake mix.<br />
<br />
Our first corn crop was in the
summer of 2015. We'd been given a small, shriveled ear at a seed-swap.
The corn was already two years old and, since corn seed degrades faster
than most, we weren't sure how viable it would be. In this case we
pre-sprouted it and only planted seeds that germinated. Our young friend
Serenity patiently and diligently planted the corn in cultivated soil
-- 5" apart and 1" down, gently covering the seeds with soil as she
went. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_u9K9xZrK0laaPc7ywMTCLO8o0bpWRycdAZj9mcS5na316XeI3k4p8mtYMwQ8DcV33OyZHse0xs6VBtbYlDIKR4q91dolrThjZ_XBgqkiKYJs3Bgfm4s4HOvjibKh6MEQugkhIEG3ac/s1600/Hookers+Blue+corn+-+CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_u9K9xZrK0laaPc7ywMTCLO8o0bpWRycdAZj9mcS5na316XeI3k4p8mtYMwQ8DcV33OyZHse0xs6VBtbYlDIKR4q91dolrThjZ_XBgqkiKYJs3Bgfm4s4HOvjibKh6MEQugkhIEG3ac/s400/Hookers+Blue+corn+-+CU.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This
is the cob-size we used to start our first crop of Hooker's Blue corn, which we grew out and re-planted as seed.
Just two years later, our harvest is enough to feed Chris and I for a year with enough
surplus to share with the garden-families who help us (at least
10-gallons of shucked corn! This was from four, sixty-foot rows.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have a lot of blue-jays in our neighborhood, and some crows - both who <i>love</i>
corn! One year we planted corn, saw the new seedlings sprout
above-ground in the afternoon -- a whole long, row of them, came back
the next morning and discovered that <i>each and every one</i> had been
dug up and eaten! So, to prevent this happening again we covered our
newly planted corn with 'floating row cover' (brand-name: "Reemay") a
synthetic, white cloth that lets rain and sunlight reach the plants but
protects them from light frosts and hungry garden-creatures! Reemay must
be pinned in place, or held down with bricks or stones. It can be left
on till seedlings start pushing at it from below at which point it's
unlikely that birds/animals will dig up and eat your plants.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5AJJYlk6tdOeNjM9OLjrHQOUd4ef7jiibcGPWXdfbi5XgL44WQjJnbO6NJuYa8rfedNgRq7KuDzsAUTKvaj0YVq5avndABX8NG8_cziFQ5ZNMG1arY86FXHRSt4qclm9wgxefCZ35ic/s1600/reemay-over-bean-bed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="960" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5AJJYlk6tdOeNjM9OLjrHQOUd4ef7jiibcGPWXdfbi5XgL44WQjJnbO6NJuYa8rfedNgRq7KuDzsAUTKvaj0YVq5avndABX8NG8_cziFQ5ZNMG1arY86FXHRSt4qclm9wgxefCZ35ic/s400/reemay-over-bean-bed.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Covered
row cloth protects young crops from mild frosts and animals that might
eat the tender, new plants. Remove once plants are pushing up on bottom
of cloth.<b> <a href="https://lopezislandkitchengardens.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/reemay-over-bean-bed.jpg" target="_blank">(Pic credit)</a></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The
soil we planted in was fairly poor and newly tilled so once the
seedlings were a few inches above-ground, we gave them a thorough
soaking with compost-tea.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLe9WcZEzlZikfEeop6jvqfXFrQIFX34NCr0vz6sam4wRzrTPJUHdG-Ngzi5PY-xD1Ad2b8QZmjR1WAw9J0Nc1SMh26mVaVGiDCozdZhlI-2MRmyMG7x50EEj6zkg7aZImAvIRe_Zb3C4/s1600/compost+tea2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1254" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLe9WcZEzlZikfEeop6jvqfXFrQIFX34NCr0vz6sam4wRzrTPJUHdG-Ngzi5PY-xD1Ad2b8QZmjR1WAw9J0Nc1SMh26mVaVGiDCozdZhlI-2MRmyMG7x50EEj6zkg7aZImAvIRe_Zb3C4/s400/compost+tea2.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Compost tea is steeped in large batches and then poured generously on crops to fertilize them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That
first year, our harvest was moderate but plenty for a large seed-crop
to plant in our second year. Since we had plenty of fresh seed, we used a
different method for planting. We prepared the ground by spreading a
light sprinkling of wood-ash <a href="https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Ashes-As-Fertilizer" target="_blank"><b>LINK</b></a>.
Chris tilled this into the soil as deep as the tiller would go. He then
scattered a combination of corn seed and kidney bean seeds (a 'bush'
variety that we dried and shelled for use in soups and chili). He then
set the tiller to a very shallow setting - about 2", and tilled both
varieties of seed into the ground. We then marked the row with string so no-one would walk on it and waited for the seedlings to emerge. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisSWX4pLTIIuAxuNs8MAWXHMT327q3BR0MuziI8eZDMpSBUZtItBwsSxyy1QrM9FVi6mfuRi8s4qLWU0NQq7zv3zji9hEkKKvzK4xPpulvconYQAunUyHOu-CpmD7yOqOz38qA5JqlOI/s1600/GP-May+2015.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisSWX4pLTIIuAxuNs8MAWXHMT327q3BR0MuziI8eZDMpSBUZtItBwsSxyy1QrM9FVi6mfuRi8s4qLWU0NQq7zv3zji9hEkKKvzK4xPpulvconYQAunUyHOu-CpmD7yOqOz38qA5JqlOI/s400/GP-May+2015.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The orange string (around bed to left of hose) is used to mark newly planted soil so no one walks on it by accident.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Corn
is typically a heavy-feeder (it needs rich, fertile soil). If your soil
is depleted, your corn-crop will benefit from additional feeding as it
grows. This past year, about mid-season, after a thorough weeding, we
added a thick layer of partially composted leaves and grass-clippings
around the base of the corn and bean plants. Then, whenever we watered,
the plants were fed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPGZ8F_99FGglxwjYKoP01LihtWkYqVLsbXqZg17NRQaos7s5M5GEIW-DJgMZWLdvsAyqL7OnWurlSnsmYMVrDFaPa4hgehdU1r2bhgT5iO66KXXjpSZd7JmlE7a5E4AU3CLeqBhtaEk/s1600/group-beans%252C+corn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPGZ8F_99FGglxwjYKoP01LihtWkYqVLsbXqZg17NRQaos7s5M5GEIW-DJgMZWLdvsAyqL7OnWurlSnsmYMVrDFaPa4hgehdU1r2bhgT5iO66KXXjpSZd7JmlE7a5E4AU3CLeqBhtaEk/s400/group-beans%252C+corn.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shucking corn and shelling beans are a favorite autumn activity at the Sharing Gardens.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Corn
is pollinated primarily by wind so it is best if you plant either
multiple rows, near to each other, or wide-beds (the width of the tiller
- as we did). If you are growing a small crop, planting it in a solid
square, or block works well too. Since the beans and corn are both left
till dry on the plant, you do not need access to the plants in the
center of the patch during the growing season. (Note: Hooker's Blue corn
is also quite tasty as a sweet-corn if you harvest it once kernels are
fully formed but still soft and yellow. Cook as you would regular
sweet-corn).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI76sbHYLtzONmB4ZhtF6b0Ir2QwppNArNzB1GvO5TYTELaMjpLGzxeHilrKNffkccN779buDZOylqwwNMx3ysHManqFwTsszBe4CAU-deFKSFOGm8orDjKX1AFuCvwuTSXCMRHPGtp6g/s1600/OSU-8-16-mulch-blue+corn-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI76sbHYLtzONmB4ZhtF6b0Ir2QwppNArNzB1GvO5TYTELaMjpLGzxeHilrKNffkccN779buDZOylqwwNMx3ysHManqFwTsszBe4CAU-deFKSFOGm8orDjKX1AFuCvwuTSXCMRHPGtp6g/s400/OSU-8-16-mulch-blue+corn-.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooker's
Blue corn, though not very tall at full height (typically 4 to 4 and
1/2 feet) yields large harvests -- one to two 4"-6" ears per stalk.
Here, students are mulching an adjacent bed with wheat straw.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidQuS2FMpPXV9BlIjLjLUOMPEtS2PbnmTlY0OSEhd2sz-j_Q5inKFRgsllSI3zuO0iY6OgYSwkcF3hZQ_5T8_hl-I1r1B3L_N78BxAPFhOfFHfxDIBDF3DkOWt5O7oXeuGKMnXyHZImJ0/s1600/OSU-9-30-17+Christy-corn+harvest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidQuS2FMpPXV9BlIjLjLUOMPEtS2PbnmTlY0OSEhd2sz-j_Q5inKFRgsllSI3zuO0iY6OgYSwkcF3hZQ_5T8_hl-I1r1B3L_N78BxAPFhOfFHfxDIBDF3DkOWt5O7oXeuGKMnXyHZImJ0/s400/OSU-9-30-17+Christy-corn+harvest.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In
this picture, corn has finished ripening, and is partially drying on the
stalk. Christie harvests the ears to be husked and further dried in our
greenhouse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Because we use the corn to make
corn-meal, we leave it on the plants, in the field, till it is quite
hard and has turned dark purple (almost black). We check it every few
days by pressing a fingernail into the kernels of corn. It's done when
you can no longer dent it with your nail. Ears of corn are then
harvested, husked and left to dry on racks in our greenhouses. The dryer
it is, the easier it is to remove the kernels from the cob (shucking).
If Fall weather starts getting too damp for the corn to dry properly, we
bring it inside and put it on shelves above our wood stove to finish
the process.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4oOrqh_2OqWNfVvZbCArqZoQOYggF_3_2-zTuojkW_I8AzgOw5YDo6p66lnR252qligTKdP8ZJw-8JkHPCOA-HcJJwIhmjvhpZqwlEGnNRwD8T5WkqP2-pqrvOje1rxVNV2i4TlAsDOQ/s1600/OSU-9-30-17+Christy-Chelsea-corn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4oOrqh_2OqWNfVvZbCArqZoQOYggF_3_2-zTuojkW_I8AzgOw5YDo6p66lnR252qligTKdP8ZJw-8JkHPCOA-HcJJwIhmjvhpZqwlEGnNRwD8T5WkqP2-pqrvOje1rxVNV2i4TlAsDOQ/s400/OSU-9-30-17+Christy-Chelsea-corn.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christie
and Chelsea remove husks and lay cobs onto a drying table to continue
to dry. Corn is easiest to remove from the cobs if it is dried well.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Shucking
can be done simply by twisting the cobs in your hands to break loose
the kernels (you might want to wear gloves!). If you have a lot of
shucking to do, here's a simple tool Chris made that really speeds up
the process!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK-dF-v2mLvTUambTv23JKNhyphenhyphenLTA1C3cWKdld6xyUoE2N3wzRr2ZCCJQTG7WJj55XYPddBeAwGZ-f_EG_r2borc6MgtnbAL4jbQYDZgM1X7JcJ7S9YjoIO9LHqLGL_0Zse61waRE1eWw/s1600/Corn+shucker+-+CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK-dF-v2mLvTUambTv23JKNhyphenhyphenLTA1C3cWKdld6xyUoE2N3wzRr2ZCCJQTG7WJj55XYPddBeAwGZ-f_EG_r2borc6MgtnbAL4jbQYDZgM1X7JcJ7S9YjoIO9LHqLGL_0Zse61waRE1eWw/s400/Corn+shucker+-+CU.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home-made corn-shucker. The cob is twisted against protruding screws.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFtk3JHYIBSns8XsWugGFhM3BI5tg8N-x2DJ6ZpLHDakwiJsnDgJbkl_A_Hogk4hrGR-K4L88GD6GlxT4UzT6biaYvvf2shxgc-ZRHczT7SEEP53ByMlq3fvhqWV-Y97IpLsdq66sqL58/s1600/CU-corn+shucker-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFtk3JHYIBSns8XsWugGFhM3BI5tg8N-x2DJ6ZpLHDakwiJsnDgJbkl_A_Hogk4hrGR-K4L88GD6GlxT4UzT6biaYvvf2shxgc-ZRHczT7SEEP53ByMlq3fvhqWV-Y97IpLsdq66sqL58/s400/CU-corn+shucker-.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up
of corn-shucker. Long screws are driven in from four sides leaving an
interior hole ~ one-inch in diameter so cob fits but corn is rubbed off;
wood is added at ends to prevent splitting and the handle makes it
easier to use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnUc8B3IoPTOQVZHquhiNe_Wl9O1rKao9bGRLIBogOgXNk2P0pU-DuSlH68G46EO4e44INYVIHamBAxeLruZKdLMlh-T4nPFFjPsFyo0A2vxqIX-KWSyg6NejzvXc64ydI_Lm489DyEs/s1600/Llyn+-+corn-seed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="455" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnUc8B3IoPTOQVZHquhiNe_Wl9O1rKao9bGRLIBogOgXNk2P0pU-DuSlH68G46EO4e44INYVIHamBAxeLruZKdLMlh-T4nPFFjPsFyo0A2vxqIX-KWSyg6NejzvXc64ydI_Lm489DyEs/s400/Llyn+-+corn-seed.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tub of dried corn-kernels.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lastly,
be sure to store your corn in a cool place, in air-tight containers.
Because of corn's high oil content it can go rancid; this ruins the
flavor and makes it unhealthy to eat. Be sure to set aside enough seed
for next year's crop. To ensure best viability, we <i>freeze</i> our corn-seed in air-tight containers.<br />
<br />
<b>Grinding corn: </b>Obviously,
if you're growing your own corn for grinding, you're going to need a
grain-mill! After carefully comparing reviews of different brands and
models, we chose to invest in a top-of-the line <a href="https://www.lehmans.com/product/diamant-grain-mill" target="_blank">Diamant grain-mill</a>.
This is considered an 'heirloom' appliance in that, with proper care it
will last for generations. Ours came with a handle for hand-grinding,
can be hooked up to a bicycle for larger, human-powered batches or
hooked up to a small motor (which is what we did) so we can grind large
batches with ease. If the price-tag is prohibitive, consider purchasing
one with your neighbors and setting it up in a central location for all
to share.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISH4vRj6Q-5gFCqHbXB766eBwwKoas4t65z05CczaNaFobxa8a_C8Hdi0hsJhpzj1kjdrjg1czaLMZSeOzjJJvsbtcZO_1HMgVRacnyBn3my__L7iqk-YpOguFkkfEKJuNFa_ahMRoSo/s1600/Diamant+Grain+Mill+with+motor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="840" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISH4vRj6Q-5gFCqHbXB766eBwwKoas4t65z05CczaNaFobxa8a_C8Hdi0hsJhpzj1kjdrjg1czaLMZSeOzjJJvsbtcZO_1HMgVRacnyBn3my__L7iqk-YpOguFkkfEKJuNFa_ahMRoSo/s400/Diamant+Grain+Mill+with+motor.jpg" width="210" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mill
hooked up to motor for faster grinding. It comes with a handle, for
hand-grinding and we also have seen instructions for hooking it up to a
stationary bicycle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMslUocVzqcYHuPaG6bSkcZouZsmg4tCEgc1igZgK_Kjgty5VnvcCZ2EvReO2C0m00-XxqIwsav8IVlmT37PTH7cokvyF1BfmSUwt3yBjrALy96K7eU0JVFIKneqs8sPHun51qKHg2aW0/s1600/Grinder-close-up.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMslUocVzqcYHuPaG6bSkcZouZsmg4tCEgc1igZgK_Kjgty5VnvcCZ2EvReO2C0m00-XxqIwsav8IVlmT37PTH7cokvyF1BfmSUwt3yBjrALy96K7eU0JVFIKneqs8sPHun51qKHg2aW0/s400/Grinder-close-up.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up
view of Diamant grain-mill. The 'can' on top has an open bottom and
allows us to pour more grain in at a time. The knob at left adjusts the
fineness of the grind.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNI_Mj6HiUaC09Lw1Uj9xDyflkfbGkuticRMhH7hy125c8ruyFhDMvBDonUOHcwgTH7JHuQNiN9odNCNZQqr63e8HMhnnEj954MW9WF_Dhw_a4GDVjA-rOGVP39iN4CbZvuRPrcF0VDUE/s1600/Grinder-motor-detail-5x7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNI_Mj6HiUaC09Lw1Uj9xDyflkfbGkuticRMhH7hy125c8ruyFhDMvBDonUOHcwgTH7JHuQNiN9odNCNZQqr63e8HMhnnEj954MW9WF_Dhw_a4GDVjA-rOGVP39iN4CbZvuRPrcF0VDUE/s400/Grinder-motor-detail-5x7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of mounted engine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Variety we like:</b> Hooker's Blue corn<br />
<b>Obtained</b>
from Native Americans in the Pacific NW (Washington state, USA) in the
1950's. It is an Heirloom, non-hybrid variety that will "grow-true"
year-after-year so you can save your own seed.<br />
<b>Description:</b> 75-80 days - to maturity. The 4-4 1/2 foot stalks produce 5-7 inch ears of
some of the finest tasting corn. Ears typically have 10-12 rows of
kernels that dry blue-black upon maturing - 1 or 2 ears per plant.<br />
<b>Why we like it:</b>
Does well in a cooler, damper climate. Because of its short-stalk, it
won't 'lodge' (fall over) as taller varieties sometimes do. Grinds into
the sweetest
cornmeal! Can be as much as 30% higher in protein than regular
'sweet-corn' <a href="http://livehealthy.chron.com/blue-corn-healthier-2206.html" target="_blank">LINK-nutritional facts</a>.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<b>Another variety we like: </b>Golden Bantam corn. This variety is typically grown as a sweet-corn and eaten fresh but we discovered that it can be dried on the cob and processed in the same way as the Hooker's Blue and makes a delicious, sweet corn-meal! It tends to grow on shorter stalks so is less likely to blow over than some other varieties and produces corn with an old-fashioned, buttery, sweet-corn flavor. It's delicious even raw, right off the stalk! Bantam is also an Heirloom/open-pollinated variety so you can save your own seed.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><b>Saving seed: </b> Corn is notorious for cross-pollinating so, on years you are saving seed, you need to grow only a single variety or have multiple varieties grown quite distant from each other. Since corn is primarily wind-pollinated, grow the variety you wish to save seed from <i>upwind</i> (of your area's prevailing winds) to further minimize crossing.<br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<b>Favorite recipes:</b> Hooker's Blue corn is deliciously sweet and nutty-flavored. Here are some ideas for using it in recipes.<br />
<br />
<b>Hot cereal: </b>Stir
ground corn into lightly salted water in a 3:1 ratio (three times as much
water as corn). Gently heat the corn and water together, stirring
occasionally and simmer on low heat, in a covered pan for ~20 min.<br />
<br />
<b>Crumb-Free Whole Grain Corn Bread: </b>We
make a large batch of the dry-mix ahead of time so it's easy to just
add milk, eggs and oil for a quick batch of corn bread or pancakes. Yum!
<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/02/crumb-free-whole-grain-cornbread-recipe.html" target="_blank"><b>LINK-Recipe</b></a><br />
<br />
<b>Whole Grain No-Knead Bread:</b>
We've adapted Jim Lahey's delicious no-knead bread-recipe to
incorporate whole wheat flour and blue-corn meal. So tasty and
nourishing! <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/09/whole-grain-no-knead-bread-recipe.html" target="_blank"><b>LINK-Recipe</b></a> <br />
<br />
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<br />
<b>Scarlet Runner Beans:</b> Here is a post about <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2016/05/grow-your-own-protein-scarlet-runner.html" target="_blank"><b>"Growing Your Own Protein - Scarlet Runner Beans" - LINK</b></a>. Beans and corn together give you all the essential amino-acids needed in one meal (a complete protein) and it's delicious too!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5U0BCxQpAWYXlaZ8Uv1Fx2fYCNSEXcxKSHvr1pMMlNbC3TmODF2blwp8zrKLDMEjN4HeOT8JojMIxvW107tXRcXc0mjW5j-d2LGsKO7X-GN0apMLXXlxqYAzymYBOGLLx8j4v4cMp9pw/s1600/scarlet-runners5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1162" data-original-width="1282" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5U0BCxQpAWYXlaZ8Uv1Fx2fYCNSEXcxKSHvr1pMMlNbC3TmODF2blwp8zrKLDMEjN4HeOT8JojMIxvW107tXRcXc0mjW5j-d2LGsKO7X-GN0apMLXXlxqYAzymYBOGLLx8j4v4cMp9pw/s320/scarlet-runners5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful scarlet runner bean blossoms!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Leave us your tips for growing, and links to recipes in the comments below! </b>(But please don't include ad-links to our 100% ad-free site - thanks!)<b></b><br />
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-75785785947831485372024-01-21T13:58:00.000-08:002024-01-25T10:12:13.720-08:00Grow your own Sorghum for grain and flour<h3 style="text-align: left;">Small-Scale Grain Production and Processing</h3><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1QwVm4g_jXaLaDIcAKsGt6B3XfUUxYVhqJ-72_nW4zfPlXZpOvN6ujf5tADsyIzTNOVL4ckXC3YO40mif773GDtDkRouimnEEpy0mgoZQXMewcrr_feNqf4CUIT64M62pbQ5T1A2FpWrMtNkCrkh69Y_z0fw3s_f0bcIcnp54pLGNwdCw40O-fCPoBeG/s2463/Harv-sorghum%20heads.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2463" data-original-width="2460" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1QwVm4g_jXaLaDIcAKsGt6B3XfUUxYVhqJ-72_nW4zfPlXZpOvN6ujf5tADsyIzTNOVL4ckXC3YO40mif773GDtDkRouimnEEpy0mgoZQXMewcrr_feNqf4CUIT64M62pbQ5T1A2FpWrMtNkCrkh69Y_z0fw3s_f0bcIcnp54pLGNwdCw40O-fCPoBeG/w200-h200/Harv-sorghum%20heads.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>For the past few years, the Sharing Gardens have been <b>growing sorghum, amaranth and corn</b> to process and use in baking, and breakfast cereals. <b>This post is specifically about growing, processing and storing sorghum on a small-scale.</b> (Image left: Kassaby sorghum ripening.) <b>To read about growing blue corn</b>, and for other relevant <b>LINKS, see below.</b><p></p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKtINBFBex2Hq-wbQ1vNsLZk1xuUqJHBSvKnsZ36SxjYwH31cu75T31zP7j8mK-_XzBKFgYJG2LoGL6az_kOJrQUvpTxI1wxpP47FV-HvqiSKqR8XFCfqBy2PlIt9-u-NzRE6WHh_e4F56czTtO9TCZl10NEcjpCPtp4ABSmjbTOftOcnnr7L9zA2aL-G/s2352/v-Rook.Chris.BaYeKi%20sorghum.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2352" data-original-width="2162" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKtINBFBex2Hq-wbQ1vNsLZk1xuUqJHBSvKnsZ36SxjYwH31cu75T31zP7j8mK-_XzBKFgYJG2LoGL6az_kOJrQUvpTxI1wxpP47FV-HvqiSKqR8XFCfqBy2PlIt9-u-NzRE6WHh_e4F56czTtO9TCZl10NEcjpCPtp4ABSmjbTOftOcnnr7L9zA2aL-G/w368-h400/v-Rook.Chris.BaYeKi%20sorghum.jpg" width="368" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rook and Chris harvesting Ba Ye Ki sorghum.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>Sorghum is a highly nutritious grain.</b> We live in <a href="https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/" target="_blank">USDA zone</a> 8B, with relatively mild winters and a long enough growing season to ripen the types of sorghum listed below. We mainly use the grain, ground for hot <b>breakfast cereal</b> but sorghum, when ground finely, can be used in recipes for <b>baked goods</b> as well. It contains <b>no gluten</b> so it is appropriate for those on gluten-free diets. <b><a href="https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/cereal/sorghum.html" target="_blank">7 Surprising Benefits of Sorghum</a>, <a href="https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-sorghum" target="_blank">Are There Health Benefits to Eating Sorghum?</a>. </b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhNWVJbpBlqc66f4X4v8XDCUnqe-aybdZLc336iv3poPEY7TP-nMIW_gnB2IL_u2NmcXMjYOb2swRRiZLBEcREYq02HAzR-KQc71RzNB1i-GaiepBGSQjRtYLoEaZjnjk4Xmrtq07E2IezsxtSOyIDc8kZAMrnE6uAz38QVs9hrShtbgsDuegqOGzKY3a/s2306/Caleb-bread.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2306" data-original-width="2084" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhNWVJbpBlqc66f4X4v8XDCUnqe-aybdZLc336iv3poPEY7TP-nMIW_gnB2IL_u2NmcXMjYOb2swRRiZLBEcREYq02HAzR-KQc71RzNB1i-GaiepBGSQjRtYLoEaZjnjk4Xmrtq07E2IezsxtSOyIDc8kZAMrnE6uAz38QVs9hrShtbgsDuegqOGzKY3a/w361-h400/Caleb-bread.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Though sorghum has no gluten, when mixed with wheat flour, it still makes wonderful baked goods. Here it is with a <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2018/09/whole-grain-no-knead-bread-recipe.html" target="_blank">Whole Grain No-knead Bread</a> recipe we've made.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Growing conditions needed:</b> Sorghum grows to various heights (up to 12 feet!). The plant, in early stages, looks very similar to corn. We have experimented with two varieties, Ba Ye Ki and Kassaby. (<a href="https://www.adaptiveseeds.com/product/grains/sorghum-ba-ye-qi-organic/" target="_blank">Ba Ye Qi Grain Sorghum</a>, <a href="https://greatlakesstapleseeds.com/products/ba-yi-qi-grain-sorghum?variant=29081941344298" target="_blank">Ba Yi Qi Grain Sorghum (Milo)</a> and <a href="https://www.adaptiveseeds.com/product/grains/barley-sorghum-kassaby-organic/" target="_blank">Kassaby Sorghum - description</a>). Ba Ye Ki is a very short-season grain so we're almost guaranteed a ripe harvest but it is also much less sweet than Kassaby - whose canes have been compared in flavor to sugar cane. Ba Ye Ki is shorter in height (6'-7') vs. Kassaby which can grow to 12'. Because of Kassaby's greater height and its higher sugar content, it also requires a longer growing season. Both can grow in moderately rich soil but do require regular, moderate irrigation to really thrive (though I'm sure that people who have experience at dry-land farming could achieve success with less, or no watering, we have not developed that capacity on our farm).<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Ba-Ye-Qi Sorghum - Annapolis Seeds - Nova Scotia Canada" class="product-gallery--loaded-image" data-rimg-crop="false" data-rimg-max="800x1200" data-rimg-scale="1" data-rimg-template-svg="data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg%20xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%20width='467'%20height='700'></svg>" data-rimg-template="//annapolisseeds.com/cdn/shop/products/552-2_{size}.jpg?v=1639774976" data-rimg="loaded" height="400" src="https://annapolisseeds.com/cdn/shop/products/552-2_467x700.jpg?v=1639774976" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="267" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ba Ye Ki sorghum: a shorter crop (5'-7') and shorter season grain. Not as sweet... (pic credit: <a href="https://annapolisseeds.com/products/ba-ye-qi-sorghum">https://annapolisseeds.com/products/ba-ye-qi-sorghum</a>)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nnr_7VviKqAevQgtrG-ZUC0GwaN-RQKQ3im6-QYAkrcyGeOT5laP5S46yH1Zekx5_mVHPlq78qdAP7x1s4SPbxiqm7COdYgKxy-TycTeYuiL0t5dJScuWaXfK36LKu6w_pUAxG6t9mYJet0M5ShtsjS4KMKbs309NoW1mCKLJMbp05ub55EFwdgB-PCA/s520/kassabysorghumfromadaptive.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="520" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nnr_7VviKqAevQgtrG-ZUC0GwaN-RQKQ3im6-QYAkrcyGeOT5laP5S46yH1Zekx5_mVHPlq78qdAP7x1s4SPbxiqm7COdYgKxy-TycTeYuiL0t5dJScuWaXfK36LKu6w_pUAxG6t9mYJet0M5ShtsjS4KMKbs309NoW1mCKLJMbp05ub55EFwdgB-PCA/s320/kassabysorghumfromadaptive.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...as Kassaby sorghum: taller (9'-12'), longer season, sweeter. Stalks can be pressed for syrup (though we've never tried it). (Image credit: <b><a href="https://store.experimentalfarmnetwork.org/products/kassaby-sorghum">https://store.experimentalfarmnetwork.org/products/kassaby-sorghum</a>)</b></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b></b></p><p><b>Trellising:</b> We have grown both varieties with, and without trellising. Kassaby - the taller variety has a sturdier stalk and seems to do fine without trellising. Ba Ye Ki, which produces grain faster, puts less energy into stalk formation and, in our experience, is prone to lodging. This can be mitigated somewhat by growing it in multiple rows or blocks of grain, with approximately 6" between plants in all directions. The plants will tend to hold each other up. </p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDIsFQwf4-fb432Wn216KVTaGCCDJhn1AxqdO2V3IISBzpflxOy0GhJO25e7i4dFK1E_TqnCcDNX9ajpKN-pSBcrdWXLGNyjOsJNNoeFof_xykvEFlRtYo0XdUJetifNCyYwcJLEAlR4JTJkuXCKJ4e_dBGrQRp95c_v8zh9m3iwc1wQvbegNELtxtwuwB/s1776/GP.bean%20trellis.cindy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1743" data-original-width="1776" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDIsFQwf4-fb432Wn216KVTaGCCDJhn1AxqdO2V3IISBzpflxOy0GhJO25e7i4dFK1E_TqnCcDNX9ajpKN-pSBcrdWXLGNyjOsJNNoeFof_xykvEFlRtYo0XdUJetifNCyYwcJLEAlR4JTJkuXCKJ4e_dBGrQRp95c_v8zh9m3iwc1wQvbegNELtxtwuwB/w400-h393/GP.bean%20trellis.cindy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you only have space for a single row, the type of trellising shown above will work. Strong cable/wire is stretched taught between 10' T-posts. In the picture, we've attached bamboo uprights for pole beans to climb on.Sorghum doesn't need the bamboo uprights, it just needs to be attached to the trellis once it reaches the height where it starts to "lodge" or fall over.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3Y_Y-vTrquZvflImJBy_AP1-YoC7afD2Xw8b0QrDaEm5aa67X79JMXUp0dY84DwMesc3JJC8TEkSxp521ZV3_eGFyU2q5i0Ke6Qa_hYMaWx_i_UZ7NrwkFXqIoAfIXTFfDZFNkdkACnbQuhQTge0KcUX4cze3KOlqAmnlOEGOiPqKfVy9JA3yCoqOUXX/s2367/Fava%20beans-Llyn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2367" data-original-width="1918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3Y_Y-vTrquZvflImJBy_AP1-YoC7afD2Xw8b0QrDaEm5aa67X79JMXUp0dY84DwMesc3JJC8TEkSxp521ZV3_eGFyU2q5i0Ke6Qa_hYMaWx_i_UZ7NrwkFXqIoAfIXTFfDZFNkdkACnbQuhQTge0KcUX4cze3KOlqAmnlOEGOiPqKfVy9JA3yCoqOUXX/w324-h400/Fava%20beans-Llyn.jpg" width="324" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another trellising idea is to plant your grains inside a wire cage (6" between each plant, in each direction). The cage will keep them from lodging. This works for fava beans too!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Sorghum is <a href="https://www.echocommunity.org/en/resources/458c7e59-9887-4706-935e-6bdfc2a9da10" target="_blank">largely self-pollinated</a> (each plant can pollinate itself) but plants can also cross-pollinate through wind or insects transferring pollen between plants. Growing multiple plants in rows or blocks will aid in cross-pollination. Also, when laying out your garden plan, keep in mind the height of the variety you are growing so they don't block smaller plants of sunlight and water as they grow in height. (Though you can use their height to your advantage if you <i>want</i> to grow a shade-loving crop like lettuce, on the north or east side, to protect it from the most intense afternoon sun.)<br /><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11Nejg5yrrhWgev8DjZP8VZg9lQ8zuqAcI26Jhli7vOHCNCuck0cAWK8H9n9qMFamEQijWGUeGDPEq0JAnX1N4j2rV8jNOQDFaLgr4c78CZp7m8EWveRhsPYWGxgITyvf9lR4imYWZ5rVz9JyMPRs386X1XJOouktgkzYbEvIt2YTohNSl-EdySg58Auc/s3264/HV.sorghum.9-4.Darlene.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11Nejg5yrrhWgev8DjZP8VZg9lQ8zuqAcI26Jhli7vOHCNCuck0cAWK8H9n9qMFamEQijWGUeGDPEq0JAnX1N4j2rV8jNOQDFaLgr4c78CZp7m8EWveRhsPYWGxgITyvf9lR4imYWZ5rVz9JyMPRs386X1XJOouktgkzYbEvIt2YTohNSl-EdySg58Auc/w400-h300/HV.sorghum.9-4.Darlene.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorghum grows much like corn though it is
"self-fertile" and relies less on wind than corn for full pollination.
Kassaby sorghum is the tall, whiteish fronds to the left of Darlene while
Golden Bantam corn is growing to her right.</td></tr></tbody></table><b></b><p></p><b>Starting sorghum from seed:</b> We have used two different methods for germinating sorghum seeds. The easiest method is to prepare the ground to be as weed-free as possible and scatter the seed lightly; gently covering the seed by raking or a very shallow tilling, so the seed is barely covered with soil. Later, once the sprouts have come up to 3" or 4", plants should be thinned to 6" apart. <p></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxUc9LGxfNdrnq7F2nJ6qU_qnsUlhElR4MLpMnu8sUvAU2RCLsq15qrVMm4uYbpZ8ZFEakvuyFOa_Aw8_bMRXCberR9YqmL6xdYM2XS_LO4YdVuhEJG3NplWCXlpb7wxwfVKAku7Ta2kPZ12a8-KI7eSTjfoNO1Cw2XYLvo4PrVwrfWHhurGff4AntyWi/s2480/GP-A%20Tiller%20and%20the%20Hon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1774" data-original-width="2480" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxUc9LGxfNdrnq7F2nJ6qU_qnsUlhElR4MLpMnu8sUvAU2RCLsq15qrVMm4uYbpZ8ZFEakvuyFOa_Aw8_bMRXCberR9YqmL6xdYM2XS_LO4YdVuhEJG3NplWCXlpb7wxwfVKAku7Ta2kPZ12a8-KI7eSTjfoNO1Cw2XYLvo4PrVwrfWHhurGff4AntyWi/w400-h286/GP-A%20Tiller%20and%20the%20Hon.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We've had good luck with direct-sowing our sorghum and shallowly tilling it under so it's just barely covered with soil. A good rule of thumb is to plant seeds twice the depth of the seed at its widest point.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The down-side to the scatter method is that <b>some varieties need a long season</b> to ripen (Kassaby variety needs 110 days, minimum) so, <b>if you're having a cool, wet spring</b> and can't direct sow till late in the spring, you may wish to <b>germinate the seeds in small pots in a greenhouse or grow-tunnel</b> and <b>transplant them once the ground warms up/drys out. </b>We use jumbo six-packs, or the shallow, plastic containers that our favorite tofu comes in (with holes drilled in the bottom for drainage). <b>To germinate in pots: w</b>e fill the pots with soil, water them and then make a small indentation with our thumb so the seeds will settle in these depressions (six per tofu pack). We then place 2-3 seeds in each cell to maximize germination. Once the seedlings are about 3" high, we thin them to one per cell. </p><p>If you try to grow them in a clusters of 2-3 plants, none of them will mature well as they compete for nutrients, water and sunlight. We <i>have</i> had success at teasing the individual sprouts apart at this stage and replanting them in their own cells. It just depends on if your supply of seed is limited so you need to make every seedling count and how much time you have to do this.</p><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPf5NUbQyPp5tvGbUmbzNeYEiVMzLq3fHGWRYjdCydtW8KGyU-z7CtkgcstCBO-9Owt91WcN-jvmwepOnCjtRLGJHojRqx6yxJYPoZ2fff4Odz8mn5Bay28HkmGwo5qkWMqbOih00CyHQCxy0e9LJOHjASfWFUJcXeRXjHrdxxiyiyCBVWGD2B9WbugLU/s3296/HV-Ba%20Ye%20Ki-sorghum.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2196" data-original-width="3296" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPf5NUbQyPp5tvGbUmbzNeYEiVMzLq3fHGWRYjdCydtW8KGyU-z7CtkgcstCBO-9Owt91WcN-jvmwepOnCjtRLGJHojRqx6yxJYPoZ2fff4Odz8mn5Bay28HkmGwo5qkWMqbOih00CyHQCxy0e9LJOHjASfWFUJcXeRXjHrdxxiyiyCBVWGD2B9WbugLU/w400-h266/HV-Ba%20Ye%20Ki-sorghum.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorghum plants started in 'jumbo six-packs'. We sow 2-3 seeds in each cell and then thin to a single stalk, otherwise the plants compete for nutrients and light when they're transplanted to the field. Singles are on the left; the plants on the right have yet to be thinned to one plant per cell.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b>Summer growth and maintenance:</b> <b>Irrigate the soil only as needed. Deeper, less frequent watering</b> will encourage the roots to grow deep, pursuing the water-table and thus being more resilient to hot and dry periods and less likely to lodge (fall over) in the wind. Keep the bed <b>as weed-free as possible</b> till your plants are well-established. After that, they should be able to out-compete most weeds. <p></p><p><b>When to harvest:</b> It's important to let your sorghum ripen as much as possible before harvesting. The seeds will be sweeter, and easier to thresh (remove) from the plant, the riper they are. On the other hand, autumn rains, if they aren't followed by strong sunny periods can lead to mold forming in the seed-heads. We start checking our crops for ripeness in mid-September. The Ba Ye Ki will darken to a strong russet/red. The Kassaby will become notably whiter as it ripens.<br /></p><p>We usually harvest the seed-heads over a span of several weeks. We use pruners to cut off ripe seed-heads with 8-10 inches of stalk still attached. This helps in the drying out process; the stalks draw moisture from the seed-heads as <i>they</i> dry. Having the long stalk also gives you something to hold onto for the threshing phase.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8o3oldrkQB24kRZ5FJRwTxHyslurRSxNxBSu5HJUk-antRGvLBm0dTrwdyNNpdCGDBlT_pvrLO2MobKYjzuR8SRfCq2dj0pxqbQRt87wgsjLW9eKi6Z4WNxRvirZ4ykQ96CKkYW8OsRtdRBXqfmqRnunLq3QWx_7r36yBag84dP90LYcCxhmFOx9U-ML/s3264/HV.sorghum.not%20quite%20ripe.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8o3oldrkQB24kRZ5FJRwTxHyslurRSxNxBSu5HJUk-antRGvLBm0dTrwdyNNpdCGDBlT_pvrLO2MobKYjzuR8SRfCq2dj0pxqbQRt87wgsjLW9eKi6Z4WNxRvirZ4ykQ96CKkYW8OsRtdRBXqfmqRnunLq3QWx_7r36yBag84dP90LYcCxhmFOx9U-ML/w300-h400/HV.sorghum.not%20quite%20ripe.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kassaby, long-season sorghum (tall and sweet) while it's still ripening. Kernels become a pearly white when they are ripe.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewFyEQHGBsG9uq-VtKYXYl2GPOFXNyhWTr9dRq8Z1sOhU5bCtmXdiUPNmuExNrhxaTWrCU4EDr1Pl4DmEANVD7W0z5GsCbhsIr59psPq3g__ybuqvBk__tVDx5nMDT11-SDpzpClzO4VcQMXZp9sYR3kMnoRu03dBuqMujhhsa3ZsR3oRm3CL5ygbcoMc/s2715/Harv-sorghum%20thresh.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2715" data-original-width="2417" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewFyEQHGBsG9uq-VtKYXYl2GPOFXNyhWTr9dRq8Z1sOhU5bCtmXdiUPNmuExNrhxaTWrCU4EDr1Pl4DmEANVD7W0z5GsCbhsIr59psPq3g__ybuqvBk__tVDx5nMDT11-SDpzpClzO4VcQMXZp9sYR3kMnoRu03dBuqMujhhsa3ZsR3oRm3CL5ygbcoMc/w356-h400/Harv-sorghum%20thresh.jpg" width="356" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kassaby sorghum in baskets for drying (with one, red Ba Ye Qi seed-head on the right). We cut it with 8" - 10" stalks which helps it dry down (the stalk pulls out moisture from the kernels) and this gives us something to hold onto for combing the kernels off the stalk (see below).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZKziBxIraB5y8wNRPnVI9SwhILr3H-Rtm8lnsuSbpAitZAgU3rWNtRctm18eM118Fj89I8WEvlGfcHwo22pIeMxGi5cgFDAq-Ee12Kvk86iFtqkgJgX7By-Dz6IIRLdq5OAVN89QES_4jSeZ1rlKazxZ7vxSTWIP-jbJlKn93jF2hSjOtGdh641jEZEn/s2961/HV.Ba%20Ye%20Ki%20sorghum.drying.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2034" data-original-width="2961" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZKziBxIraB5y8wNRPnVI9SwhILr3H-Rtm8lnsuSbpAitZAgU3rWNtRctm18eM118Fj89I8WEvlGfcHwo22pIeMxGi5cgFDAq-Ee12Kvk86iFtqkgJgX7By-Dz6IIRLdq5OAVN89QES_4jSeZ1rlKazxZ7vxSTWIP-jbJlKn93jF2hSjOtGdh641jEZEn/w400-h275/HV.Ba%20Ye%20Ki%20sorghum.drying.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ba ye Ki sorghum, laid out in cardboard boxes in our greenhouse while days are still sunny, warm and humidity is low. These aren't as red as they should be for ideal ripeness. Our season was cut short that year by cold, heavy rains. The sorghum was still edible; just not as sweet and it was harder to thresh as well.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>If we're having <b>mostly sunny days with only moderate humidity, we lay the seed-heads on cardboard trays in our greenhouse to dry. </b>If<b> skies are overcast and the humidity is high, we put them in cardboard trays or baskets and bring them in the house.</b> We heat our house with wood and have shelves all around the upper walls of our living room where our wood stove is, for the purpose of drying foods in the fall. <b>Many fall mornings we'll start a small fire in the wood stove just to dry the air in our house and bring the temperature up slightly.</b> Even if we have to open the windows later in the day (because outside temps have climbed) it's worth the few sticks of firewood to keep the drying process progressing.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8lBmyOYgfUYaYlbZ7MA3ow97NnsYjk_WDv_nPtPSjaCxpVszxyHPNpjwaWtRYEsKvZGGvnxH9UhDAFII9kqiZjJppAqoWJ5FkqLHCxHpSdRqd96i4OgcAI3qQrRceAHNO9fD-Q2ag8579leYENEfJlzfzVsmGS0udgSiV0wwOgzQKNuy4OisMFQgvHlH/s3264/FH.baskets.woodstove.dry.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8lBmyOYgfUYaYlbZ7MA3ow97NnsYjk_WDv_nPtPSjaCxpVszxyHPNpjwaWtRYEsKvZGGvnxH9UhDAFII9kqiZjJppAqoWJ5FkqLHCxHpSdRqd96i4OgcAI3qQrRceAHNO9fD-Q2ag8579leYENEfJlzfzVsmGS0udgSiV0wwOgzQKNuy4OisMFQgvHlH/w400-h300/FH.baskets.woodstove.dry.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As temperatures drop and humidity rises in the autumn, we bring our bean and grain crops inside and dry them in baskets and boxes on shelves above our wood stove. <b>It's super important to make sure these crops are very dry.</b> We've lost previous batches to mold that formed after we put the grains or beans into storage containers for the winter.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p><b></b></p><b>Threshing the sorghum: </b>We've tried several methods over the years to remove the grain from the stalks but this year Chris came up with our best method yet! He attached a metal pet-grooming-brush/comb to a 2' x 4' board (see pic). This is placed in a deep plastic tote to catch the seed as it falls. The seed-head is combed through the tines of the comb which causes the seeds to release and fall into the tote below.<p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PQa0yVOBFFXmO7Evwxiu4BlSPYCvV-cdETxBdHSW-WeRtTID0frrN-m9aNgtGjtuaCGbNEt6DcP5JW_gY3bvg1BQkAFH2ebkk-BUaDDxhGCwCLX6bn_m0FwYUweLiZ1T_8-bW6DUSuMOrjaPzTmflNU8u2Jt6qvGp7ZDBW-VJtFy4_buwaAEluwzdY44/s3264/HV.sorghum.tools.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PQa0yVOBFFXmO7Evwxiu4BlSPYCvV-cdETxBdHSW-WeRtTID0frrN-m9aNgtGjtuaCGbNEt6DcP5JW_gY3bvg1BQkAFH2ebkk-BUaDDxhGCwCLX6bn_m0FwYUweLiZ1T_8-bW6DUSuMOrjaPzTmflNU8u2Jt6qvGp7ZDBW-VJtFy4_buwaAEluwzdY44/w300-h400/HV.sorghum.tools.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This year, Chris built two new tools for processing the sorghum. Sifter, on the left, and a pet-comb attached to a 2'x4', for teasing the grain off of the stalk (right).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlzDBUyR30PlK9yaJ7yC_yRmQGhlmaT81Zwl5LuYXkqJfp8hj6d3sLFrN1m_U_atAwe7NRWYpY0wNWeLYvKu9USqtR5gSnXAY2Hh3X4SbZ9o8lOkMscT8WbGxYiXW-WHE3T8KZCRMJdNSnX4x88zyqqzYathrLfdn6ysh1ypF4dVCB7DQ6bh-1iTD5_gT/s2816/HV.grain%20thresher.pet%20brush.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2816" data-original-width="2169" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlzDBUyR30PlK9yaJ7yC_yRmQGhlmaT81Zwl5LuYXkqJfp8hj6d3sLFrN1m_U_atAwe7NRWYpY0wNWeLYvKu9USqtR5gSnXAY2Hh3X4SbZ9o8lOkMscT8WbGxYiXW-WHE3T8KZCRMJdNSnX4x88zyqqzYathrLfdn6ysh1ypF4dVCB7DQ6bh-1iTD5_gT/w308-h400/HV.grain%20thresher.pet%20brush.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the tool we use to thresh the grain from the stalk. It's a pet-comb we found at a 2nd-hand store, bolted to a 2'x4' board.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDH4ocBpJlZ3Z0i2QmgVbVxSeMolAlp-8W-N3bipjepTx-jYXUPAlXrT0tL6kyR1K3zlqGJ0_3f_I98PvZoczC7dwIbZoOlaqQ3y6GU0YFyX0jtgLgUXKUpWxPDS4PDtxgVzhp-wzROS-AIYVrEaywCMhyVkVrl0MciCDIuU89sdDqoLZGvJKuDmOAZQte/s1765/HV.grain%20thresher.pet%20brush.hand.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1765" data-original-width="1394" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDH4ocBpJlZ3Z0i2QmgVbVxSeMolAlp-8W-N3bipjepTx-jYXUPAlXrT0tL6kyR1K3zlqGJ0_3f_I98PvZoczC7dwIbZoOlaqQ3y6GU0YFyX0jtgLgUXKUpWxPDS4PDtxgVzhp-wzROS-AIYVrEaywCMhyVkVrl0MciCDIuU89sdDqoLZGvJKuDmOAZQte/w316-h400/HV.grain%20thresher.pet%20brush.hand.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of pulling the grain-heads across the comb. This is why we always cut the grain-heads leaving several inches of stalk for use as a handle.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><b> </b><b></b><br /></div><div><b>Sifting:</b> The next stage is to sift the seeds through a wire mesh with 1/4" sized holes. (This wire mesh is called "hardware cloth" in the USA). Chris made a framework that's the same size as the tote we're sifting into and solidly attached the mesh to its bottom edge. The grain is poured into the top and rubbed vigorously through the screen. The seeds fall through and (most) of the longer stems and chaff remain on the top of the screen.<p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHswQhS0UWc5eZkgTp2oEViVbIj7LTORkVIs_QtzujaXOD8mx3DDdSdhwNWoxd35JDXZ_0nEHJ8UxnkZq7nfBB5F_Cg5aiOq_VcGgpL4wkcAO88LikYgI6uDPvwHuRDM-jjz6Cgrc7CaAAvkOJpMAiOLzmw3pkiyTjhQjzoE5LLpnXe6YOo6P4M2q5WIm/s2914/HV.sorghum%20sifting.on%20tote.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2914" data-original-width="2055" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHswQhS0UWc5eZkgTp2oEViVbIj7LTORkVIs_QtzujaXOD8mx3DDdSdhwNWoxd35JDXZ_0nEHJ8UxnkZq7nfBB5F_Cg5aiOq_VcGgpL4wkcAO88LikYgI6uDPvwHuRDM-jjz6Cgrc7CaAAvkOJpMAiOLzmw3pkiyTjhQjzoE5LLpnXe6YOo6P4M2q5WIm/w283-h400/HV.sorghum%20sifting.on%20tote.jpg" width="283" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the grain is teased from the stalk, it is vigorously rubbed through a screen with 1/4" holes. This breaks up the clumps of grains into individual pieces and removes much of the chaff which remains on the screen.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b><br />Winnowing: </b>There will still be some fiber that makes it through the screen so, on a day with a mildly steady wind (or standing in front of a box-fan) pour the grain back and forth from one container to an other. You will have to experiment to find the right height from which to drop the grain and, if using a fan, how far from the front of the fan to pour the grain. It's helpful if your containers are lightweight (so it's easy to pour them when full of grain) and with a wide surface area so that, as the grain falls straight down, it's not bouncing off the rim of the receiving container. The grain will fall straight into the container below and the chaff will be blown away by the wind. </div><div> </div><div>Repeatedly pour the grain back and forth between your two pans until you've achieved results you're satisfied with. There's no need for you to winnow out <i>all </i>the chaff. Just do the best you can. Any un-removed chaff will float in the cooking water if you cook it whole and can be scooped or poured off before you cook it or, if you're grinding cereal or flour, will be ground along with the seed and just provide some extra fiber to your diet! <br /><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmeQA_eg-0N6fYTvQVxUTL5WZmmAbykmYxxgsL66tKZTTk8XIKLHUHY4VlKz6W5G09YTJuJ3kHKONtIdzspLjotFVJUiQcZ4QMicRpFUFHCaqkGaEB9hm-lp_jPWXY55kzOnWiD9_KGYW0AZatrMKwjHBQ1OMAgmkXVjnCa9QN7qDNjFd7itMgBMr4A7Hi/s2744/Harv-sorghum%20sifting-%20.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2744" data-original-width="2145" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmeQA_eg-0N6fYTvQVxUTL5WZmmAbykmYxxgsL66tKZTTk8XIKLHUHY4VlKz6W5G09YTJuJ3kHKONtIdzspLjotFVJUiQcZ4QMicRpFUFHCaqkGaEB9hm-lp_jPWXY55kzOnWiD9_KGYW0AZatrMKwjHBQ1OMAgmkXVjnCa9QN7qDNjFd7itMgBMr4A7Hi/w313-h400/Harv-sorghum%20sifting-%20.jpg" width="313" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We winnow the grain, separating the remainder of the chaff (or at least <i>most </i>of it) by pouring it from one container to the other multiple times on a mildly windy day (or in front of a fan). The heavier grain drops into the container below while the chaff blows away. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b>Drying: </b>As our sorghum seed progresses through these phases of threshing, sifting and winnowing, we put it back into a warm, dry place between each step to keep it from absorbing more moisture. At the end of all these steps we put it into cardboard flats, or shallow pans (to give the maximum surface area) and keep it on our drying shelves until we are absolutely certain it is <i>completely</i> dry. Grains that are stored moist, can end up molding in your pantry and be ruined.<p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQXHA3u6e5GYjEhpN7MsihpesGu16LWHHfCzXjwZl2N5RgFHctF3J9PCKvFGuTlkR_3RDmDneScrYOrmu_ec1hQZbr978mRMcR9XZpgJzvL-CDO8MrY4ZL9DHawzrMuwhLtH0aLIpEcciBrTPjiCTbskbx-qCtNcMi7lQ6pCbbAeg26k5VoRvhjSFdIrA/s2685/HV.sorghum.dry.basket.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2685" data-original-width="2126" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQXHA3u6e5GYjEhpN7MsihpesGu16LWHHfCzXjwZl2N5RgFHctF3J9PCKvFGuTlkR_3RDmDneScrYOrmu_ec1hQZbr978mRMcR9XZpgJzvL-CDO8MrY4ZL9DHawzrMuwhLtH0aLIpEcciBrTPjiCTbskbx-qCtNcMi7lQ6pCbbAeg26k5VoRvhjSFdIrA/w316-h400/HV.sorghum.dry.basket.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's a top view of sorghum heads drying in a basket.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><b>Grinding:</b> Though we've seen recipes for <b>cooking sorghum while still whole</b> (<a href="https://www.cookingwithcamilla.com/how-to-cook-wholegrain-sorghum-instant-pot-or-stovetop/" target="_blank">How To Cook Wholegrain Sorghum</a>) <b>we've always used ours in a <i>ground form</i>:</b> either coarsely ground for cereal, or finely ground for flour to use in baked goods. <b>It adds a sweet, almost nutty taste</b> to our hot cereal mix. We use a <a href="https://www.goodbadanduglycomparisons.com/2011/02/28/diamant-review/" target="_blank">Diamant grain mill</a> that Chris hooked up to an old motor with a clothes-dryer belt. This greatly speeds up the process of grinding - though if we ever lost electricity for an extended period, we can easily convert it back to being hand-ground.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaT7VDbiS_i1dgQVr5XOrnI7EifjWPeMx6oVklW_ukVNp8fs4O0ZmQ-tHZeWq_QGx68qplfpBQBtVclaq-cZ4_0BhUL0ZgpBBImDw2LqJLqJj2ZUDzG1udWUZ-ZDKPeuba4ZjUd3sCmNDvSTm4w4M2Fg62dkCuo9X3RhFs0KluWfdoMyeP-fDpu0ocUSE/s3202/Diamant%20Grain%20Mill%20with%20motor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3202" data-original-width="1680" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaT7VDbiS_i1dgQVr5XOrnI7EifjWPeMx6oVklW_ukVNp8fs4O0ZmQ-tHZeWq_QGx68qplfpBQBtVclaq-cZ4_0BhUL0ZgpBBImDw2LqJLqJj2ZUDzG1udWUZ-ZDKPeuba4ZjUd3sCmNDvSTm4w4M2Fg62dkCuo9X3RhFs0KluWfdoMyeP-fDpu0ocUSE/w210-h400/Diamant%20Grain%20Mill%20with%20motor.jpg" width="210" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris hooked up our Diamant grain mill to an electric motor so we're able to efficiently grind enough grain for our own use as well as to share with our volunteers.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3PSlVhmMnPXhOfybLKsIWBZpUek5Tf_5O5dpA2BjP-Q7sydxuMn5X66cD7VChgEcoQRePKiYUIPQjM3RJuI9b-gO2BY3-WxnldYmCPNWgx5fo2UNUPI-jjrxF7w6Tdr0QyRwpShp33M7Ka45oM_IvGeNfx27M6G-mju4RA0TesvXDsohw3AO3EqiLadzr/s2963/HV-sorghum%20flour.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2148" data-original-width="2963" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3PSlVhmMnPXhOfybLKsIWBZpUek5Tf_5O5dpA2BjP-Q7sydxuMn5X66cD7VChgEcoQRePKiYUIPQjM3RJuI9b-gO2BY3-WxnldYmCPNWgx5fo2UNUPI-jjrxF7w6Tdr0QyRwpShp33M7Ka45oM_IvGeNfx27M6G-mju4RA0TesvXDsohw3AO3EqiLadzr/w400-h290/HV-sorghum%20flour.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Course ground sorghum for use in hot cereal. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>We hope this tutorial has been helpful and inspires you to begin growing sorghum yourself. Please post your questions and comments below so we can all benefit from them.</b></div><div></div><div> </div><div><b>Seed Saving</b>: Save the ripest, driest grains/seeds for future plantings. One seed-head has enough seeds for most small-scale grain growers, with enough to share with other growers in your area!<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqIIoXytzpSkBYvXgP4oUgYZnSYpVk8C9fRY-PS8t6mEAdJcs3D0XZ-CqNlXne__Y_ow5dvxMpKVHlmzYZzk6fVxvH47A70rApOYRPHlkvc86aXmh2zxv8lWOevUY3-RtnbfUeamQ7VQRMPSMugiTUKYNz35akKTcg0CaRiXo-udFY0fEnr9Cpfl2m-x-/s3296/Hookers%20Blue%20corn%20-%20CU.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3296" data-original-width="2472" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqIIoXytzpSkBYvXgP4oUgYZnSYpVk8C9fRY-PS8t6mEAdJcs3D0XZ-CqNlXne__Y_ow5dvxMpKVHlmzYZzk6fVxvH47A70rApOYRPHlkvc86aXmh2zxv8lWOevUY3-RtnbfUeamQ7VQRMPSMugiTUKYNz35akKTcg0CaRiXo-udFY0fEnr9Cpfl2m-x-/s320/Hookers%20Blue%20corn%20-%20CU.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Here is the post we wrote about growing and processing your own blue corn for drying and grinding. These methods also work for growing/processing Golden Bantam and other varieties of corn. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/10/grow-your-own-blue-corn.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn' </a> <br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVq5O5_qTJJQsWztOxS9EQl9Bam_u2_tRDIsTBTTwlV5nnJBMnSiEZ9IWiXXKAltDRbz5CaYzYRALJkesYW21oOk76JfCZNxouweTjTtLaPMhfppPkiuAeDnJWACu4PdvPFOFMFGfFkuum-HhxqIvbmne8qvOnHojWwnJrks5s2EsiXwWxm78roYo9AeP/s2783/HV.crumb-free.cornbread.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2404" data-original-width="2783" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVq5O5_qTJJQsWztOxS9EQl9Bam_u2_tRDIsTBTTwlV5nnJBMnSiEZ9IWiXXKAltDRbz5CaYzYRALJkesYW21oOk76JfCZNxouweTjTtLaPMhfppPkiuAeDnJWACu4PdvPFOFMFGfFkuum-HhxqIvbmne8qvOnHojWwnJrks5s2EsiXwWxm78roYo9AeP/s320/HV.crumb-free.cornbread.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>And here's a recipe we've developed to make a <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/02/crumb-free-whole-grain-cornbread-recipe.html" target="_blank">Crumb-Free, Whole-Grain Cornbread</a> (just substitute sorghum flour in a 1:1 ratio with the corn flour in the recipe).<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19HPGPeRrnCywkO2t7dDwMQ81bUerw36odc2Y29C0mHckYwOhISwd0bAEwfH7oYDIbZqtYxNSNgD6rUgMV87yKFuMwpu-TC_3g3kgVBvOh4oGMrSWBXgGXdjz1otOsFutFrcIUZGbe6Bw6d_ga6ylNkzBQGnoHVKe3Ue25FLCcgua51XswK5Fjj-7O851/s1000/corn-trees-teach-NatlGardAssoc.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19HPGPeRrnCywkO2t7dDwMQ81bUerw36odc2Y29C0mHckYwOhISwd0bAEwfH7oYDIbZqtYxNSNgD6rUgMV87yKFuMwpu-TC_3g3kgVBvOh4oGMrSWBXgGXdjz1otOsFutFrcIUZGbe6Bw6d_ga6ylNkzBQGnoHVKe3Ue25FLCcgua51XswK5Fjj-7O851/w400-h266/corn-trees-teach-NatlGardAssoc.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaMBGwz26rQzE-YDe06ulaWtd_Ec__s78lp76EkCi1XUY9o8_ymw58Y1U2VGCiKmrsXDfvIER5H6ggXQWhMTTRP7BPCBwHQ-5Sn1PhLfJ-ijZ8yjBCM31O_4pR7wXWSRHX-Aijof0cmLtKD_yIMSHh1Qlxvdkf0lvG_hHyx5vwQEo5CLhltUD8a4l9pv3/s2341/v-Jessie-llyn-happy-blue%20corn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2341" data-original-width="2121" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaMBGwz26rQzE-YDe06ulaWtd_Ec__s78lp76EkCi1XUY9o8_ymw58Y1U2VGCiKmrsXDfvIER5H6ggXQWhMTTRP7BPCBwHQ-5Sn1PhLfJ-ijZ8yjBCM31O_4pR7wXWSRHX-Aijof0cmLtKD_yIMSHh1Qlxvdkf0lvG_hHyx5vwQEo5CLhltUD8a4l9pv3/w363-h400/v-Jessie-llyn-happy-blue%20corn.jpg" width="363" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Growing grains as a community makes the task of processing it much less daunting. Here, Jessie and Llyn are husking the corn in preparation for shucking and further drying.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com3664 Orchard St, Monroe, OR 97456, USA44.313047 -123.299431316.002813163821152 -158.45568129999998 72.62328083617885 -88.1431813tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-68941793835282094412024-01-10T13:18:00.000-08:002024-01-10T13:18:02.413-08:00Sharing Gardens - Early Winter Digest <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJyjwan0LJOlUEOFjrz8VNUk88n2dtn7nZUpeX5XSEZCocoIwVr6TKtFcsmJGlIsa58RPW7XZZa92P60jQFbA7kkWIoiYnm7VueRSPIXwsWahuZyStw1gaJ3ZGgpeYVzUypY9R8XFY9a-wVO6tDd9wf_SRM_JnRq-Fh9JR06K2SHfAdvJFpRwh7w3JBV8c/s314/hands-compost-heart-CU.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="314" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJyjwan0LJOlUEOFjrz8VNUk88n2dtn7nZUpeX5XSEZCocoIwVr6TKtFcsmJGlIsa58RPW7XZZa92P60jQFbA7kkWIoiYnm7VueRSPIXwsWahuZyStw1gaJ3ZGgpeYVzUypY9R8XFY9a-wVO6tDd9wf_SRM_JnRq-Fh9JR06K2SHfAdvJFpRwh7w3JBV8c/w200-h200/hands-compost-heart-CU.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Here is a digest of all the posts we've published (or re-published) in the last six weeks. We hope there's at least one link below that interests you! <b>We
hope 2023 was blessed for you and all the circles you touch
(including the non-human ones!). May this coming year be one for all of
us to embrace life-giving habits and generosity! Llyn and Chris</b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIp8uU2pMDtvrhMSJyweXqXOBhKoU9poFlNh4QWTRj2E4-QR26UnV97lNIQwvg-46Es-etYdzch_GFf5od5Rx3jRKOT7y-dn5V6kBE082qviyA-QizpQB0PVyNG-twcC0rLY0UnuaOxc4fr8kkcGS5U-jFALTxAd063dQBRumoMJmc7c1YUO9p1AyGWQb/s160/rainbow-chard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="160" data-original-width="122" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIp8uU2pMDtvrhMSJyweXqXOBhKoU9poFlNh4QWTRj2E4-QR26UnV97lNIQwvg-46Es-etYdzch_GFf5od5Rx3jRKOT7y-dn5V6kBE082qviyA-QizpQB0PVyNG-twcC0rLY0UnuaOxc4fr8kkcGS5U-jFALTxAd063dQBRumoMJmc7c1YUO9p1AyGWQb/s1600/rainbow-chard.jpg" width="122" /></a></b></div><b>What we grew/Lessons Learned: Year in Review</b>: The 2023 season was our best year yet in anticipating the needs of our garden helpers and the food charities we serve. At the beginning of the 2023 season, we reviewed the patterns of previous
years' donations and shifted our planting strategies accordingly. This post offers highlights of our learnings<b>. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2024/01/what-we-grewlessons-learned-year-in.html" target="_blank">What we grew/Lessons Learned: Year in Review </a></b><br /><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZX23cw4GO1JusufBIVDe-G9-nKksL3EImNK06uGs87n8UqKSUr-CsePqNaA3o_f-cMtJYtjmW1I0fp-qpLYxKW425gb-VO5fOuM2A5s915zNsRKDeVWs-K4-9Ovuyu3b2IZezekqtT0yp9OQHt7mMNWyTkFi5d2XKDUlaA90tGpoZ-WlwhIMupO8Rnn88/s450/seed%20gambling.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="450" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZX23cw4GO1JusufBIVDe-G9-nKksL3EImNK06uGs87n8UqKSUr-CsePqNaA3o_f-cMtJYtjmW1I0fp-qpLYxKW425gb-VO5fOuM2A5s915zNsRKDeVWs-K4-9Ovuyu3b2IZezekqtT0yp9OQHt7mMNWyTkFi5d2XKDUlaA90tGpoZ-WlwhIMupO8Rnn88/w200-h200/seed%20gambling.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b>Starting Seedlings Directly in Greenhouse Raised Beds</b>: A re-published post on our experiments with starting seedlings (to be transplanted to other beds) directly in our greenhouse raised beds. This worked quite well for several
crops including: lettuce, broccoli, kale, collards, onions and cabbage.
They are all plants that transplant easily and will germinate in
relatively cool soil. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/01/starting-seedlings-in-greenhouse-raised.html" target="_blank">Starting Seedlings Directly in Greenhouse Raised Beds</a> <p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS7Hw42hWnvhXmKMD2ZThddt23GCRRNz-yef-Q0T0DiP25H9WfrsqOH8kD7ti6tDh1wv0f62lnUH8nbNW9QzlL-kj6NA-izsDKDrL2DyI55JAjo5XBRw48mLnwsjWX7KdGXYZNxKw1Mua9Ckz3Fto46kR8YNzA_4sXWZ9DFPjUYYb9oaOt5U1RWSBJIhI/s1814/ART.share4hunger.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1766" data-original-width="1814" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS7Hw42hWnvhXmKMD2ZThddt23GCRRNz-yef-Q0T0DiP25H9WfrsqOH8kD7ti6tDh1wv0f62lnUH8nbNW9QzlL-kj6NA-izsDKDrL2DyI55JAjo5XBRw48mLnwsjWX7KdGXYZNxKw1Mua9Ckz3Fto46kR8YNzA_4sXWZ9DFPjUYYb9oaOt5U1RWSBJIhI/w200-h195/ART.share4hunger.jpg" width="200" /></a><b>Full Circle Generosity: </b>The Sharing Gardens operate on the principle of mutual- or full-circle
generosity, finding ways to help each other in the community in which we
live. <b>Here are two actual examples of how this works: </b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/12/full-circle-generosity-some-examples.html" target="_blank">Full Circle Generosity - some examples... </a></p><p><b></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEjAD3VTxvGbsEhGDU5tnd3uXhH2kTjAD21XnUFE65d7Ufob4ScA3OjqAeZrmglRXn_iNG6iYAsyxIca5bo2D8LmGQyXW2Gn8HlQbJI4DXCafr1s0Mp6gkjmctMdeI282muzxkM9fb7XYcwT4JegvLtLZ6SsLQSDWvunj0hUpSzV5Sj354iZDAYi1gn7L/s2349/v-llyn-toms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2349" data-original-width="2294" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEjAD3VTxvGbsEhGDU5tnd3uXhH2kTjAD21XnUFE65d7Ufob4ScA3OjqAeZrmglRXn_iNG6iYAsyxIca5bo2D8LmGQyXW2Gn8HlQbJI4DXCafr1s0Mp6gkjmctMdeI282muzxkM9fb7XYcwT4JegvLtLZ6SsLQSDWvunj0hUpSzV5Sj354iZDAYi1gn7L/w196-h200/v-llyn-toms.jpg" width="196" /></a></b></div><b>Gallery of Givers: Highlights from the 2023 Season</b>:<b> </b>Here is a gallery of some of the year's
highlights with our
wonderful share-givers. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/12/gallery-of-givers-highlights-from-2023.html" target="_blank">Gallery of Givers: Highlights from the 2023 Season </a><br /><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq9ewxXu4MkL-Su6lvutmrB7OZGV9FXpa8ydphMhjafzOsW4ZRcruh6er-l2MTX6WKUAyjXcYjFbTLSvFWjxdCSUtf30x3GbXtGTwhQBPFjxvTFNYiIX3_GcEYJ_Iw_AiBwxm5DOcCU-VgopkST7LJFgmu4DQRHCb5F9x4J-F_DdLCTSvPrdYRhWTQ8-qw/s3264/HV.pantry%202022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq9ewxXu4MkL-Su6lvutmrB7OZGV9FXpa8ydphMhjafzOsW4ZRcruh6er-l2MTX6WKUAyjXcYjFbTLSvFWjxdCSUtf30x3GbXtGTwhQBPFjxvTFNYiIX3_GcEYJ_Iw_AiBwxm5DOcCU-VgopkST7LJFgmu4DQRHCb5F9x4J-F_DdLCTSvPrdYRhWTQ8-qw/w150-h200/HV.pantry%202022.jpg" width="150" /></a></b></div><b>Tips for Maintaining a Well-Stocked Pantry: </b><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Whether
you’re concerned about preparing for a natural disaster or economic
hard times, or just tired of opening your cupboards and not having a
variety of tasty, nutritious items to choose from, it’s always a
good idea to get in the habit of </span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>stocking
</i></span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and
</span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>maintaining
</i></span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">one’s
pantry. Here are some tips to help. </span></span><b><a href="https://allthingssharing.blogspot.com/2024/01/tips-for-maintaining-well-stocked-pantry.html" target="_blank">Tips for Maintaining a Well-Stocked Pantry </a></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHhSmBa5bZOHd1bY9Uo_RtC1B7ftcB6-GxEjNJutSD5jF8xVlPsUzQApFiYqBFmgRNbEoOQY6bJVDatg5lW08skM9lZvJ2b3oIE_ZRqHGftoPZVqj-P8RJLMaRJSyOY__AsnYaC4y_rUOAwIbw8mX48SAFQMFKhz0X-K7rDQLwleAcXu-lRwRnNgAg1Su/s200/wim%20hof.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="148" data-original-width="200" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHhSmBa5bZOHd1bY9Uo_RtC1B7ftcB6-GxEjNJutSD5jF8xVlPsUzQApFiYqBFmgRNbEoOQY6bJVDatg5lW08skM9lZvJ2b3oIE_ZRqHGftoPZVqj-P8RJLMaRJSyOY__AsnYaC4y_rUOAwIbw8mX48SAFQMFKhz0X-K7rDQLwleAcXu-lRwRnNgAg1Su/s1600/wim%20hof.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b>Wim Hof - Benefits of Cold Showers: </b>For several years, Chris and I have been following the work of Wim Hof
(affectionately know as the Iceman! - image: left). He recommends taking
cold showers and ice-baths for their health and spiritual benefits. Here's a post that outlines the benefits of cold showers as well as a video interview with Wim Hof.<b> <a href="https://allthingssharing.blogspot.com/2024/01/wim-hof-benefits-of-cold-showers.html" target="_blank">Wim Hof - Benefits of Cold Showers </a> </b> <br /><p></p>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-52052765602452749422024-01-10T12:52:00.000-08:002024-01-10T12:52:46.303-08:00What we grew/Lessons Learned: Year in Review<p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi8ahm_7u1ePSQ6iMVfSChc0MwbSBmcqxWJjoTtHTBhvAH8DOcfoM7tPEXv1w3lOHrYU23VwGCMECQMeBXhQTyIQLqikhxSNi3Ny0fU7BzdMqItBnUyckJQoBLH_evmvZimcduTPiNBPKGjdr6HpY9SkBpTZ2my1GcKoYZ2HAJXKD59lDppbKAUU6gRu9l/s3036/give-till-it-feels-good-kale.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3036" data-original-width="2161" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi8ahm_7u1ePSQ6iMVfSChc0MwbSBmcqxWJjoTtHTBhvAH8DOcfoM7tPEXv1w3lOHrYU23VwGCMECQMeBXhQTyIQLqikhxSNi3Ny0fU7BzdMqItBnUyckJQoBLH_evmvZimcduTPiNBPKGjdr6HpY9SkBpTZ2my1GcKoYZ2HAJXKD59lDppbKAUU6gRu9l/s320/give-till-it-feels-good-kale.jpg" width="228" /></a></b></div><b>The 2023 season was our best year yet in anticipating the needs of our garden helpers and the food charities we serve.</b> In recent years, the food pantry that shares our parking lot (<a href="https://southbentonfoodpantry.org/" target="_blank">SBFP - LINK</a>) has had the "high quality problem" (haha) of <b>an amazing surplus of fruits and vegetables being donated from local gardeners in the peak of the harvest season</b> (typically mid-August through early October). There have been weeks when it was hard to find room on the tables for <i>our</i> donations!<p></p><p><b>At the beginning of the 2023 season, we reviewed the patterns of previous
years' donations and shifted our planting strategies accordingly. This post offers highlights of our learnings.</b><br /></p><p></p><b>Our crops fall into two main groupings:</b> <b>the crops we grow abundantly enough to share with charities; and </b><b>the crops we grow primarily for ourselves and the Gardens' supporters.</b><p><b>In 2023 we grew enough of the following <i>summer crops</i> </b><b>to share with <u>garden supporters<i> and</i> charities</u>:</b> <b>lettuce, cabbage, cucumbers, peppers, beets, </b><b>garlic, kale, chard, collard greens and celery</b><b>. </b> </p><p><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcbaIZ2q9eReb2Y6rtGJxt38UaFeft3EgVS5PlO9D53Jolfq7khlKxz1suzcV7PnWsqhNsqtxZOrYcNwbbrAAGw6yUbnm_55e5qZVQ2tCcI4LSi94-u8qn8l-Zcqa4-TWJNBPZEtFHULaSma87PjuZ8ogvtEXAiibBfgz4xjX9vCeqX2mcZv5xo9aMW9N/s2227/harv-all-from-the-garden.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2149" data-original-width="2227" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcbaIZ2q9eReb2Y6rtGJxt38UaFeft3EgVS5PlO9D53Jolfq7khlKxz1suzcV7PnWsqhNsqtxZOrYcNwbbrAAGw6yUbnm_55e5qZVQ2tCcI4LSi94-u8qn8l-Zcqa4-TWJNBPZEtFHULaSma87PjuZ8ogvtEXAiibBfgz4xjX9vCeqX2mcZv5xo9aMW9N/s320/harv-all-from-the-garden.jpg" width="320" /></a></b>All of these are the kinds of produce that are not typically donated in large quantities to the pantries by other gardeners. They are <b>easy to grow, requiring minimal maintenance once they are established. They are also easy to harvest in large quantities</b> (unlike, for example green beans, which are very labor-intensive to harvest).<b> </b>(<i>Salad-left is all from the gardens!</i>)</p><p>In addition to these crops,<b> there are some <i>summer crops</i> that we are <i>only</i> able to grow enough for our inner circle of participants/supporters. </b><b>These include (but are not limited to): carrots, broccoli, potatoes and figs.</b></p><p><b>The Sharing Gardens also grows <i>winter storage crops</i> </b>that can be distributed to our supporters and food charities* through the fall and early winter (when other local gardeners have stopped donating).<b> These crops we donate to charities include: </b><b>cabbage*, beets*, </b><b> </b><b>celery*, winter squash*.</b></p><p><b>We typically grow enough of the following </b><b><i>winter storage crops</i></b><b>, just for our inner circle: </b>lettuce, carrots, potatoes, dried beans, and dried corn and sorghum (for cereal and baking). </p><p><b>Though overall, we were very pleased with the quantities we grew of all our crops, here are a few specific notes we'll keep in mind for 2024.</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgloj-E1rR1Cqq8KxDwEoypn3MQzNl5e_SfLMtH66qiQbdEfvR6pV7epZWV2g13lO3_iwIYaVoFtp4nn-1aN934gDjIUPLeeqcJtxrUomGiK-AmgggwdvIO5CrBzNd_Ylou5q1VXmrhOGg1ZEajVRX923CurKebxIotBC13HbcRlsCZCmgCatiLU9mSarqe/s3296/harv-Aug%202020-cornucopia.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2472" data-original-width="3296" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgloj-E1rR1Cqq8KxDwEoypn3MQzNl5e_SfLMtH66qiQbdEfvR6pV7epZWV2g13lO3_iwIYaVoFtp4nn-1aN934gDjIUPLeeqcJtxrUomGiK-AmgggwdvIO5CrBzNd_Ylou5q1VXmrhOGg1ZEajVRX923CurKebxIotBC13HbcRlsCZCmgCatiLU9mSarqe/w400-h300/harv-Aug%202020-cornucopia.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cornucopia of Sharing Gardens veggies!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><b></b></p><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiId0LjJjDFxLCJc0N5vmHmHLVnT8quvsqyf8929UHaTiaAou_zBNPCu1JBMCHZsKSjWaHlGBUC1GwVRm4vKhqR4geuqUxARSl3UsJBO4FTJVAs-MK5gYu8k9zIt2HuYzgU6cYdzaKRaHyIM5L2FZA9zGcJvZVYG5hEaUFEUiRd9NLvY8OSpDfLxr0OI_wT/s3505/HV.carrots.imperators.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3505" data-original-width="2666" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiId0LjJjDFxLCJc0N5vmHmHLVnT8quvsqyf8929UHaTiaAou_zBNPCu1JBMCHZsKSjWaHlGBUC1GwVRm4vKhqR4geuqUxARSl3UsJBO4FTJVAs-MK5gYu8k9zIt2HuYzgU6cYdzaKRaHyIM5L2FZA9zGcJvZVYG5hEaUFEUiRd9NLvY8OSpDfLxr0OI_wT/w152-h200/HV.carrots.imperators.jpg" width="152" /></a></b><b>Carrots and beets:</b>
Chris did a fantastic job of growing carrots and beets in succession
(staggering the plantings so we almost always had some to harvest). We
had enough surplus beets to share with the charities but <b>since our sharegivers all love
homegrown carrots, it's hard to grow enough to
share beyond our inner circle of helpers/supporters.</b> We'll continue to
grow as many as we can but it's unlikely we'll ever have a significant
surplus. (<i>carrots (left) Imperator variety: To grow this long, they need very deep and loose soil. We grow them in our GH raised beds</i>)<p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNO4xhvYnIPoorzDPwjnl8jj5exsN1Y6AshxnpkwZFKru6Jg47b0eyiohUv4Pfct5w-e9l37Lq-KrumVrszlFeRZWKoMqDLNgWB5ldwbKIuY7WPOkEH49Vv7rYOyLnY8KZu-YmVZSjHWc5NE10lggmCVWMG4P-Aq2Qmzfrq83PuLdARa9j9aRHEV_Dnll/s2165/HV.massive%20beets.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2165" data-original-width="1787" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNO4xhvYnIPoorzDPwjnl8jj5exsN1Y6AshxnpkwZFKru6Jg47b0eyiohUv4Pfct5w-e9l37Lq-KrumVrszlFeRZWKoMqDLNgWB5ldwbKIuY7WPOkEH49Vv7rYOyLnY8KZu-YmVZSjHWc5NE10lggmCVWMG4P-Aq2Qmzfrq83PuLdARa9j9aRHEV_Dnll/w330-h400/HV.massive%20beets.jpg" width="330" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Our beets did phenomenally well this year!</b> This variety is called "Detroit" and typically they have rather small 'greens' (not so in our case). Also, common wisdom says that you must direct sow beets where you want them to grow as they're not supposed to transplant well. We have disproven this 'common wisdom' for two summers in a row. The above beets were sown very closely together in raised, greenhouse beds and, when the greens were about 2" - 3" tall, we <i>very carefully</i> dug them up (being careful not to damage their tap roots). We replanted them 5-6" apart, covered them with a floating row cover (Remay) and kept them moist while they overcame transplant shock and, as you can see, they did <i>very</i> well! (395 pounds over the course of the whole season!)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b></b><p></p><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uuLIdr4k_o5PgS0-WNhdmIhRTbokOuOSV1oKiX5nXcJ8EtyfLGDR0O8u1dNeT1Sg8Au4fyCjvCxx1Q3uU-Gfj84t6y-Ucyetr5flY9wgdjagvLsBO3_XkMdRETf3g4PPu3GLhD6OflSDNluhwl6ArmTGzv_GicBtXOYJiMODz0GNV5ccqfVT7Y-3ezI3/s2131/HV-carrots%202022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1716" data-original-width="2131" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uuLIdr4k_o5PgS0-WNhdmIhRTbokOuOSV1oKiX5nXcJ8EtyfLGDR0O8u1dNeT1Sg8Au4fyCjvCxx1Q3uU-Gfj84t6y-Ucyetr5flY9wgdjagvLsBO3_XkMdRETf3g4PPu3GLhD6OflSDNluhwl6ArmTGzv_GicBtXOYJiMODz0GNV5ccqfVT7Y-3ezI3/w400-h323/HV-carrots%202022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>There's just no comparison between store-bought and home-grown carrots! </b>Our soil is highly mineralized from compost and wood-ash which makes for sweet, crisp (but not 'woody') carrots. <b>Our share-givers and other supporters eat the carrots we grow as fast as we can grow them!</b></td></tr></tbody></table><b></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodcGkdb_tWbGz_Bh8cwZtA1Ayp1TF8KlkFnfnVMBIrtQL0p688wKpK7C8lyZ7S6eoECmW6_evxG9Ux-bIM4EkkOAU7r-O0vDV9V7QhutrcT_j45Yo1tEzS3t1_K7qu_QGnfaSgaCTslUWOp-h5zXsFsozids1i0shZFx6MBdlt42ZDoMoTghMWzyXJ9nu/s590/HV.%20cabbage%20giant.hands.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="590" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodcGkdb_tWbGz_Bh8cwZtA1Ayp1TF8KlkFnfnVMBIrtQL0p688wKpK7C8lyZ7S6eoECmW6_evxG9Ux-bIM4EkkOAU7r-O0vDV9V7QhutrcT_j45Yo1tEzS3t1_K7qu_QGnfaSgaCTslUWOp-h5zXsFsozids1i0shZFx6MBdlt42ZDoMoTghMWzyXJ9nu/w200-h192/HV.%20cabbage%20giant.hands.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b>Cabbage:</b> We had two really good green cabbage crops this year. Though cabbages averaged about 8-10 pounds (left), we had one beauty that grew to 13.5 pounds (below)! (That's the biggest one Chris has ever grown!). This fertility all came without using store-bought fertilizer or animal-based amendments (blood/bone meal etc). <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/10/making-your-own-veganic-potting-soil-in.html" target="_blank">LINK: Making Your Own "Veganic" Potting Soil in Your Greenhouse Paths - Using Worms </a> We're sure, had we <b>grown more cabbage</b> and had a good way to store it that <b>food charities would have been happy to distribute more of it for as long as we could have provided it. </b>(Total pounds: green cabbage: 210 pounds, Red cabbage: 108)<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjHjyXcA56KQMlhyphenhyphenKZ2QB4aIHoVG7ipbwGObNX-Li_apfxAp5uYFbLIqciNuNKaJ1Dmh5npD7edh1dQxEvvQpYN1MmB8gLvHt9UVOFGSawO_xBfpagh-rLIR_zme8Abb37cttKQPV_4qtLBR8HvUINfHYE0lKpzGLFExWBQW5_-_l_rZmzuXJGKXDR3C1/s3105/v.Llyn.cabbage.1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3105" data-original-width="2071" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjHjyXcA56KQMlhyphenhyphenKZ2QB4aIHoVG7ipbwGObNX-Li_apfxAp5uYFbLIqciNuNKaJ1Dmh5npD7edh1dQxEvvQpYN1MmB8gLvHt9UVOFGSawO_xBfpagh-rLIR_zme8Abb37cttKQPV_4qtLBR8HvUINfHYE0lKpzGLFExWBQW5_-_l_rZmzuXJGKXDR3C1/w266-h400/v.Llyn.cabbage.1.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the queen cabbage from this year's harvests. She weighed 13.5 pounds!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3-TBXrqmdWcQbQi3-XJ9Dr-yrof2_vUSt5KK345od3m3g-dztFSTTkiWKYvvwFO6AeOd40zkfYp7qzFH7OH1JfOXP2WNxZ8r2XPaAmOMQP_3TMazomfbJMFPCefKCLXZmoQzcKLeQzko-CWCPJTlrfCZGPnzuyNm4tWCo7N3JHTxHpDreXk22sGs4gAy/s2592/v.Llyn.cabbage.4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="2071" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3-TBXrqmdWcQbQi3-XJ9Dr-yrof2_vUSt5KK345od3m3g-dztFSTTkiWKYvvwFO6AeOd40zkfYp7qzFH7OH1JfOXP2WNxZ8r2XPaAmOMQP_3TMazomfbJMFPCefKCLXZmoQzcKLeQzko-CWCPJTlrfCZGPnzuyNm4tWCo7N3JHTxHpDreXk22sGs4gAy/w320-h400/v.Llyn.cabbage.4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I know...hard to believe, right?<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpz13X3QqfQvbaQ6NIFZuBzIqkk4VFHfkvM9vdp0OcvxCuD-6Q1cdaqcyr0V8agSZXo847F_BhLQeQtWhWkZ_BKzShl9nmoW2HuQAkwRf1PqKH3eu6O8pVKlvQDMGTSsgpLE2NsaK0DtACz6QE_8SxHpeLW-q7SWXmwev_hHkpebgA8T9EuHugwCpMWnsL/s3051/v.Llyn.cabbage.5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3051" data-original-width="2033" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpz13X3QqfQvbaQ6NIFZuBzIqkk4VFHfkvM9vdp0OcvxCuD-6Q1cdaqcyr0V8agSZXo847F_BhLQeQtWhWkZ_BKzShl9nmoW2HuQAkwRf1PqKH3eu6O8pVKlvQDMGTSsgpLE2NsaK0DtACz6QE_8SxHpeLW-q7SWXmwev_hHkpebgA8T9EuHugwCpMWnsL/w266-h400/v.Llyn.cabbage.5.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This cabbage, cut up, served six families at the food pantry! (Thanks Darlene, for these wonderful pics!)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Potatoes: </b>We had several bumper crops of<b> potatoes</b>. <b> Our big breakthrough with the potatoes was to grow some of them in the raised beds of our greenhouses. </b>We've
had problems in the past with our seed potatoes (saved from our fall
harvests) breaking dormancy in January or February, when it's too early
to safely plant them outside. Last winter, we had some extra space in the Sunship GH
and so we planted them there. The potatoes did beautifully and we had many abundant and
delicious harvests through the summer and fall (including the potatoes grown <i>outside</i> the greenhouses, we harvested over 400 pounds!).<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWlHLv5MQjLqyvUb6BRP3nKrJnmD9vyC_G0QGiGTXQkHtXb2ChImr5r2iWAPXz257Lz3Rt3WGbg3024uOlUeOEWrOBdgcXqJoGn049x0OmpWn5qB1AUESkVSoQI1VFG0wfp3xqdqSS3pLL1K5yLt8Iaht2kvRHn9DixhuZkZRRP6Mr8YRKBDxlOLnlw7U/s1969/HV.two-pound%20potato-wow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1969" data-original-width="1416" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWlHLv5MQjLqyvUb6BRP3nKrJnmD9vyC_G0QGiGTXQkHtXb2ChImr5r2iWAPXz257Lz3Rt3WGbg3024uOlUeOEWrOBdgcXqJoGn049x0OmpWn5qB1AUESkVSoQI1VFG0wfp3xqdqSS3pLL1K5yLt8Iaht2kvRHn9DixhuZkZRRP6Mr8YRKBDxlOLnlw7U/w288-h400/HV.two-pound%20potato-wow.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this is the largest potato we've ever grown. I forget how much it weighed (and can't find my notes) but, wow, it was a biggie!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Other staple, storage crops we grew</b> this year included <b>dried blue and yellow corn (Hooker's Blue and Golden Bantam) and Kassaby sorghum.</b>
We dry and grind these grains and use them for cereal and baking. We
are now growing enough to share significant amounts with our
share-givers too.<b> </b> (LINKS: <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/10/grow-your-own-blue-corn.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn'</a>, <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/11/grow-your-own-sorghum-for-grain-and.html" target="_blank">Grow your own Sorghum for grain and flour</a>, </b>).<b> <br /></b></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmqxbQGIrIo3oUb7r2kWEH85jg8GOkQb6UCNU_CJ7vFDbm6I4G62sZEh4-7VnG3tm-I7-M4L8UjAJQwPCJ6EwA12Ckisv3kA2e-HivCbY6okJY30C53TGP7x-6Xt10jHCIXJ39eJybH0k5H32SVI0AQNm-yZ7X2EBh83syflVn9tEl4nw9Df19fuINEhb/s2613/HV.corn.bantam.blue.drying.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1746" data-original-width="2613" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmqxbQGIrIo3oUb7r2kWEH85jg8GOkQb6UCNU_CJ7vFDbm6I4G62sZEh4-7VnG3tm-I7-M4L8UjAJQwPCJ6EwA12Ckisv3kA2e-HivCbY6okJY30C53TGP7x-6Xt10jHCIXJ39eJybH0k5H32SVI0AQNm-yZ7X2EBh83syflVn9tEl4nw9Df19fuINEhb/w400-h268/HV.corn.bantam.blue.drying.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>We grew a lot more winter-storage crops this year. </b>Here we have Hooker's Blue and Golden Bantam corn. <b>Both can be eaten fresh (</b>as sweet corn<b>), or dried and ground</b>
(we use it mainly in hot cereal). To dry, we peel the husks back and
lay the cobs in the sun in our greenhouse. As the husks dry, they pulls
moisture from the kernels. (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2017/10/grow-your-own-blue-corn.html" target="_blank"><b>Grow Your Own 'Blue Corn'</b> </a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Beans:</b> We harvested over 50 pounds of Scarlet and Giant Greek White 'runner' beans which grow on teepees and trellises, and about 20 pounds of kidney beans which are a bush bean. We are now growing enough dried beans for all of Chris' and my personal
use (we're vegetarians so that's a lot of beans!) and, for the past two years we have also grown enough dried beans to
share a modest amount with our inner circle as well. <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2016/05/grow-your-own-protein-scarlet-runner.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own Protein - Scarlet Runner Beans</a></b></p><p><b>It's comforting to know that, with the low-tech methods we've
developed, and by dedicating more of our fields to growing them, we
could probably provide a significant amount of these grain and bean staples for the
Garden's main participants.</b><b> <br /></b></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4rnW5CpBca3PoevX_L-VWZnRQx9_96g-c7dm2vf_-dpnJVEpNJqVobYrkWAL_eD_pzLPnRBuhU5ZQtWzaQnXPq-zfAocj8nyUB9yH1BN8Hq3TehMCKTL1xyL3ukGCNywhykujHl7bZa2OkhL8636yZSsec_uwpdO4KbBSE1oaViMWIo_NV34-CtMEjeh/s3182/HV%20runner%20beans.dried.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2186" data-original-width="3182" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4rnW5CpBca3PoevX_L-VWZnRQx9_96g-c7dm2vf_-dpnJVEpNJqVobYrkWAL_eD_pzLPnRBuhU5ZQtWzaQnXPq-zfAocj8nyUB9yH1BN8Hq3TehMCKTL1xyL3ukGCNywhykujHl7bZa2OkhL8636yZSsec_uwpdO4KbBSE1oaViMWIo_NV34-CtMEjeh/w400-h275/HV%20runner%20beans.dried.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scarlet runner beans in their shells after harvest. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b></b><b> </b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7PLrI2UTqh4u7VbDvSbRMbyP5ksLPcHqyxEIPuDZHA6dubgztVpsN_3gdAWkGum6OryaVGJvPuUDqnOO4UHDx5j3RqSyhZ9WKCZ6X-qzB3XH4ta_qI_S-090oL2If34xs9BugBR3Au6x1UB3jjNYgDrfn796jJCyuQaqawrKe9r3hLJtj2Lk4_hbCWAYn/s1888/HV-runner%20beans.basket.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1649" data-original-width="1888" height="349" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7PLrI2UTqh4u7VbDvSbRMbyP5ksLPcHqyxEIPuDZHA6dubgztVpsN_3gdAWkGum6OryaVGJvPuUDqnOO4UHDx5j3RqSyhZ9WKCZ6X-qzB3XH4ta_qI_S-090oL2If34xs9BugBR3Au6x1UB3jjNYgDrfn796jJCyuQaqawrKe9r3hLJtj2Lk4_hbCWAYn/w400-h349/HV-runner%20beans.basket.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">Scarlet runner and Giant Greek white runner beans ready for storage. They always remind me of jewels!. <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2016/05/grow-your-own-protein-scarlet-runner.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own Protein - Scarlet Runner Beans</a></div></td></tr></tbody></table><p>In 2023 we tried a new variety of <b>winter squash</b> (<i>Thelma Sanders Sweet Potato Squash</i>) that has been very popular at pantries and among our garden helpers. It has a very creamy consistency and is mildly sweet. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6UMlICf0FZJ3Wxkb5Pcshu6g9Jy-1T1AcREjKU4-pe1R5yzWexWrAo2k_d5CSzsVb3DeiheFn8H4b33SOeEXL1rCUgGsF5jRvfW7So7P6lwCp4N5Xvh0pKIC9qXvroqQT3r664oMa-8coxFne2he1hy8IIy_in3do1ZZheLucTtLyH5St4kYup_OmRufY/s2879/HV.sweet%20potato%20squash.2023.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1719" data-original-width="2879" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6UMlICf0FZJ3Wxkb5Pcshu6g9Jy-1T1AcREjKU4-pe1R5yzWexWrAo2k_d5CSzsVb3DeiheFn8H4b33SOeEXL1rCUgGsF5jRvfW7So7P6lwCp4N5Xvh0pKIC9qXvroqQT3r664oMa-8coxFne2he1hy8IIy_in3do1ZZheLucTtLyH5St4kYup_OmRufY/w400-h239/HV.sweet%20potato%20squash.2023.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a new variety of winter squash we grew this year: <i>Thelma Sanders Sweet Potato</i><i> squash.</i> <b>We <i>only </i>grew this variety</b> as it's in the same family as other squash we love and <b><i>we wanted to be sure the seed we saved is pure</i>.</b> (It is in the <i>Pepo family</i> which also includes <i>Delicata</i>, zucchini, crook neck<b> </b>and more...<b>). We've saved enough seed to last us for many years and to share with other growers. </b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>In this coming year<b>,</b> the only significant changes to growing the winter storage crops will be to <b>increase the amount and variety of winter squash.</b> <br /></p><p>Typically, we're able to store winter squash <i>at least </i>through till February. So far this year we've had enough to supply our supporters and one of the three food charities we serve (Of the 594 pounds we harvested, we have about 30 pounds still in storage). <b>Next year, we'd love to grow enough winter squash to provide for the needs of our second food pantry and the soup kitchen we serve - at least through till February too. </b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDf8-i-35f6M2i81TB8-q25bYMGafEq6X5ONq9gWxawhkKqorSHakTmFjlm01Ar-xS35Pj6E9UF48jit4QZwBWhjwm5rYdEUVS0qzDuI_CpXioN4B9NQyEMQ4Cowl03rZ2IEVydNpBkryInV-8AnohFzYavtXb5DPxAUEIe5yA7pJGIkv6RuGLtCKyVcdI/s2528/harv-squash%20seeds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1813" data-original-width="2528" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDf8-i-35f6M2i81TB8-q25bYMGafEq6X5ONq9gWxawhkKqorSHakTmFjlm01Ar-xS35Pj6E9UF48jit4QZwBWhjwm5rYdEUVS0qzDuI_CpXioN4B9NQyEMQ4Cowl03rZ2IEVydNpBkryInV-8AnohFzYavtXb5DPxAUEIe5yA7pJGIkv6RuGLtCKyVcdI/w400-h286/harv-squash%20seeds.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are careful to isolate squash varieties that can cross so we can save pure seed. (Above: Sweet Meat squash and seeds being rinsed; to be dried and saved).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br />We also had a phenomenal year for fruit. Everyone did in our area. Our apple, pear, plum and fig trees, and grape vines all produced record amounts of fruit. </b>Food pantries were inundated! Our trees were no exception and we
had <b>plenty of apples to share</b> with our volunteers as well as enough
for our use through the winter and to make <b>apple/quince/pear sauce (49 quarts!)</b>. We also canned <b>over 135 quarts of fruit and veggie juice</b> and <b>36 quarts of stewed tomatoes</b>. <p></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9XPgCFjhV5xHXbiva90eanWZCygkhfcK3xsBM84Hm7tH2KYn0xMy7mgOe5S738uECHJEtdN_mQM55ZfiTO4DFU9hhpXb4SufUau_Jy64xFIHDOXzfpULC9YlYHRcWR3AdrbN998nAwCWc4q209ahP86ecT6GI3jhEp8t9ULHhzwKcw5hcBL0Sf-cerMr/s2900/HV.canning%202023.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2128" data-original-width="2900" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9XPgCFjhV5xHXbiva90eanWZCygkhfcK3xsBM84Hm7tH2KYn0xMy7mgOe5S738uECHJEtdN_mQM55ZfiTO4DFU9hhpXb4SufUau_Jy64xFIHDOXzfpULC9YlYHRcWR3AdrbN998nAwCWc4q209ahP86ecT6GI3jhEp8t9ULHhzwKcw5hcBL0Sf-cerMr/w400-h294/HV.canning%202023.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are some of the canned foods we prepared this past fall: veggie juice and canned, whole tomatoes.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b></b><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WNGYMSHH6usD3m_fV6DcVm4-Jsdc4LaHIkKdaIoEyN38N-n_jiiBM4SN8vMbBiFAfRWiGN3Ixpxrp9iyFBkfZBGEhcnX9ab7tnCBD5fl3xeeUy4TxGJbqDue6mYPN2rfPhgb32mUUvgvEr1pP8uYE894uPpIeCjvXegzxeRK0qipsbW7PHGUqKyMgQ3D/s2530/Amish%20Rose%20Tomato-2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2278" data-original-width="2530" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WNGYMSHH6usD3m_fV6DcVm4-Jsdc4LaHIkKdaIoEyN38N-n_jiiBM4SN8vMbBiFAfRWiGN3Ixpxrp9iyFBkfZBGEhcnX9ab7tnCBD5fl3xeeUy4TxGJbqDue6mYPN2rfPhgb32mUUvgvEr1pP8uYE894uPpIeCjvXegzxeRK0qipsbW7PHGUqKyMgQ3D/w200-h180/Amish%20Rose%20Tomato-2.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b>Speaking of tomatoes.</b>..<b>In previous years, we've grown way too many </b>(over 200, one year - but averaging about 100 plants)! Since
this is such a popular plant for home gardeners to grow, the food
charities are typically inundated with donations starting in late
summer. <b>So this
year we restrained ourselves to <i>just</i> 44 plants. </b>This probably should have been
enough except we had a condition called blossom end rot affect about a
third of them, radically reducing their productivity and we barely had enough tomatoes to make our delicious canned veggie juice. In the coming year, we're going to try
growing some outside our greenhouses (like we used to), try to be more consistent in
watering the ones inside, and try pruning a little less radically and
see if we can increase production again.<p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkjwFrEIMbbYj9x_MXiPeGticrR76sFKGaAh3O-_ilu4pVdFBuh6e9z9lFlgmN_o4OWGmLd__h1TQJGo8aL9dkgbCTSSVw18_TDt78l32tM_EvywpDBFsXLYCRjIWXNfv5JyGg_752DsxYlMT3NOYPfqwQdXb2QQqy3EF9SElOkOUP7Hqhlayvxeud-Xw/s2190/HV.sweet%20peppers.2023.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2184" data-original-width="2190" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkjwFrEIMbbYj9x_MXiPeGticrR76sFKGaAh3O-_ilu4pVdFBuh6e9z9lFlgmN_o4OWGmLd__h1TQJGo8aL9dkgbCTSSVw18_TDt78l32tM_EvywpDBFsXLYCRjIWXNfv5JyGg_752DsxYlMT3NOYPfqwQdXb2QQqy3EF9SElOkOUP7Hqhlayvxeud-Xw/w200-h199/HV.sweet%20peppers.2023.jpg" width="200" /></a></b></div><b>We also will grow <i>fewer </i>sweet peppers (and one or two <i>more</i> jalapenos). </b>We grew 16 red and yellow sweet pepper plants this year and, though
we were able to distribute all we grew, the final harvest (to beat the
frost) was 90 pounds! That's a lot of peppers! In 2024, <b>we'll grow more jalapenos</b> since the one plant we had didn't seem to fill people's desire for spicy, hot peppers! <b>The five poblano peppers we grew seemed to be just about right. </b>(right: Pimento red and Gatherer's Gold yellow sweet peppers) <br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>It has been an excellent year overall!</b></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>We
hope 2023 was blessed for you and all the circles you touch
(including the non-human ones!). May this coming year be one for all of
us to embrace life-giving habits and generosity! Llyn and Chris</b></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cNsQf5g5UDhDjgE5MY7I721SMXg21Nwyqryj4kZ6p-_EGwMO6KOhsBYlhaz43ds8emXLX4dn9kapyIkFmFNbvFfqYgB-FgJWLXTItAv9xsKcTafJfTlRlrUA4ylPtaLMhrmwDxi0FX1ef0owDWQjBsA_IeXgpy3EfuBiNmRGB7TekeKpcGyKN7lSWDhP/s960/thank-you%20peppers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cNsQf5g5UDhDjgE5MY7I721SMXg21Nwyqryj4kZ6p-_EGwMO6KOhsBYlhaz43ds8emXLX4dn9kapyIkFmFNbvFfqYgB-FgJWLXTItAv9xsKcTafJfTlRlrUA4ylPtaLMhrmwDxi0FX1ef0owDWQjBsA_IeXgpy3EfuBiNmRGB7TekeKpcGyKN7lSWDhP/s320/thank-you%20peppers.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-6320317045221033822023-12-26T15:23:00.000-08:002023-12-28T17:11:19.449-08:00How we grow...Veganic Community-based gardening<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wURpif9iyp7k0L-0jxq5mF_S8rIqd-AMiAAi9uCM5wx14XuzjHMKNoXYf_pktVUq7KxANWR-KCyRbqpeRaq5rXQwANLME4iWJxH0JUgpPtkJUenCr9skUEgcZ4x4y4WU1yNFdBoV35y_1o-SLZCRYUEu3ceBn8h0fwyh4FSj2usJaEeK6J_sILTmkA/s1869/All%20Given%20Freely-sign.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1869" data-original-width="1248" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wURpif9iyp7k0L-0jxq5mF_S8rIqd-AMiAAi9uCM5wx14XuzjHMKNoXYf_pktVUq7KxANWR-KCyRbqpeRaq5rXQwANLME4iWJxH0JUgpPtkJUenCr9skUEgcZ4x4y4WU1yNFdBoV35y_1o-SLZCRYUEu3ceBn8h0fwyh4FSj2usJaEeK6J_sILTmkA/s320/All%20Given%20Freely-sign.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>The Sharing Gardens is based on the concept of <b><i>mutual generosity</i>; building relationships through the sharing of time and resources</b>. One of the ways we demonstrate this is through our process of <b>building fertility in our soils.</b><p></p><p>Since 2020 we have grown all our food <b><a href="https://www.goveganic.net/article19.html" target="_blank">"veganically"</a> </b>and <b>without the use of commercial fertilizers.</b> This means we use <b>no livestock manures</b> (cow, chicken, sheep etc) and <b>no animal by-products</b> (blood or bone meal etc) <b>or any products mined or shipped from distant lands</b> (gypsum, bat guano etc.). <b>Being vegetarian</b>, and <b>committed to deriving our food from local sources</b> whenever possible, <b>this way of growing food just makes sense to us!</b></p><p><b></b></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMZrjnPiPqPSN4PdZctNexlHkTdAqGrOr47fn7CnueTM-T4ywUQR9rVkgULT_c4TLQ9Pc7HdmDfFbUGwgoGSwZ59dI7vD5J6piI67QSh6w-AWolgiqDrMt2weRayL1LKqn5ttzoemwqkf06cVlV1BaxBtyio7VZXT1hxXemX575u77qBOxnMSKfe58hQ/s2355/v-CIndy-leaves.artichokes.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2355" data-original-width="1962" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMZrjnPiPqPSN4PdZctNexlHkTdAqGrOr47fn7CnueTM-T4ywUQR9rVkgULT_c4TLQ9Pc7HdmDfFbUGwgoGSwZ59dI7vD5J6piI67QSh6w-AWolgiqDrMt2weRayL1LKqn5ttzoemwqkf06cVlV1BaxBtyio7VZXT1hxXemX575u77qBOxnMSKfe58hQ/s320/v-CIndy-leaves.artichokes.jpg" width="267" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of our garden's fertility comes from leaves...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>Our system is simple: the majority of our soil's fertility comes from leaves and grass </b>which we <b>compost in large wooden bins</b> or in the <b>paths of our greenhouses</b>. <p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BGjHL2n_OchpbAma6Jd-khmfjToXteEeyj1-pQJBTR5nPXECBtdQDnChRTBFLzUaa0N6vy5xBQctNldcweCGMoDJ8VvEW5jvHnek3Teyb9I2pVRtIeEV2ya477_9L8XjlX6wMjk4Rwp1X1KU26ImDjLGniYin5Jua2ENQ5Twd66wBtnEHV0_QZpy5A/s2303/GP-Jim%20grass%20harvest.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2064" data-original-width="2303" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BGjHL2n_OchpbAma6Jd-khmfjToXteEeyj1-pQJBTR5nPXECBtdQDnChRTBFLzUaa0N6vy5xBQctNldcweCGMoDJ8VvEW5jvHnek3Teyb9I2pVRtIeEV2ya477_9L8XjlX6wMjk4Rwp1X1KU26ImDjLGniYin5Jua2ENQ5Twd66wBtnEHV0_QZpy5A/s320/GP-Jim%20grass%20harvest.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and grass clippings.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><b>The challenge is in gathering enough materials. Here's where the <i>mutual generosity</i> comes in! We provide a drop-off site</b> for our neighbors and yard-maintenance companies to bring their leaves and grass. This means <b>they don't have to pay</b> to have these valuable materials hauled away in trash cans, or deposited at the closest municipal-scale composting site (25 miles away). <b>We receive these materials in abundance</b> and are able to extensively <b>mulch and compost our garden beds,</b> <b>create our own potting mix</b> and have enough compost to <b>share with the volunteers </b>in our gardens who have small gardens of their own.<b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LXlRgAx0dhPRXRqVtu-DxtoOuLzP0e4356esgF1CohGouQEBrwijbQQBs8TpY2Jgi3Q27cuWw8X65utarHPEbGRYVGBvZTOeE2u8c6vQFtYQ-_1CiMi7q3jWNZueFE2WM48RU6Xdd85MUn49-H0VCHl53KUU6QxLgYBOljmZartQEc1wELA-x1BKNg/s2952/v-Donn-Chris.grass.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2952" data-original-width="2321" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LXlRgAx0dhPRXRqVtu-DxtoOuLzP0e4356esgF1CohGouQEBrwijbQQBs8TpY2Jgi3Q27cuWw8X65utarHPEbGRYVGBvZTOeE2u8c6vQFtYQ-_1CiMi7q3jWNZueFE2WM48RU6Xdd85MUn49-H0VCHl53KUU6QxLgYBOljmZartQEc1wELA-x1BKNg/w315-h400/v-Donn-Chris.grass.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Besides composting yard waste in large wooden bins, we spread it in layers in the paths of our greenhouses which turns to compost beneath our feet. Donn: spreading grass clippings in the SunShip greenhouse.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjF_J-v_VorONNaQgv6hl9dOL__JuIieXVRp1mhRocpB6skhRKcVgv-GmEdZpbkg-1KvVQ8PKyKgF8ZHgUV2FILPct6hXTPQoQty7ftLADxMvay2EioZkO8n64wna04KSFARsDM9DeQxAyKSJLBZ2L_PfSmUxyPaTiUXWA1oO0-_r8XbxwPfqgzJOoA/s2781/GP.compost%20sifting.Ark.2022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2781" data-original-width="2181" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjF_J-v_VorONNaQgv6hl9dOL__JuIieXVRp1mhRocpB6skhRKcVgv-GmEdZpbkg-1KvVQ8PKyKgF8ZHgUV2FILPct6hXTPQoQty7ftLADxMvay2EioZkO8n64wna04KSFARsDM9DeQxAyKSJLBZ2L_PfSmUxyPaTiUXWA1oO0-_r8XbxwPfqgzJOoA/w314-h400/GP.compost%20sifting.Ark.2022.jpg" width="314" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Compost is scooped up from the paths in the autumn, sifted and bagged for use throughout the coming season.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-hQTu1n8tQyc24qvppZYFd2QIhqp1HvT8chgGx-bCVH_wNnbpKKWYk2vGgTXsujV2u_53TKmEBPxGmGx9mRkM3_0ClO3kOuD-QWX04zaKd_nBEGNwAhJ-AzWWWfEvPhuBZCpEJnYzZxzKsfE2SWdY1U3vGTHUOyen2nEduN9UYyhzwMVP3AzX5_RWiw/s3038/v-Craig%20sifting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3038" data-original-width="2218" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-hQTu1n8tQyc24qvppZYFd2QIhqp1HvT8chgGx-bCVH_wNnbpKKWYk2vGgTXsujV2u_53TKmEBPxGmGx9mRkM3_0ClO3kOuD-QWX04zaKd_nBEGNwAhJ-AzWWWfEvPhuBZCpEJnYzZxzKsfE2SWdY1U3vGTHUOyen2nEduN9UYyhzwMVP3AzX5_RWiw/w293-h400/v-Craig%20sifting.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig, sifting compost.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>When people drop off their yard waste in plastic lawn/leaf bags</b>, we hang them to dry on clotheslines in our greenhouses. Once dry, <b>we roll them into bunches of 5-6 bags, twist-tie them together and put them in a covered barrel at the drop-off site for our neighbors to take for free</b> and use for future loads. <b>This helps reduce our community's use of plastic</b>.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVpefPq28PpSNpNbh86X7bXkwSAjPBO7wktwN6ZWoTr15kPMvSJPvolmmRt1oQcTdbGw4rxvYgyahBJ0wOp0yBU62rtjjtfi-VWiLKcxBnM9hKHahhctyJYH0UzNYT2WskF0E0S9DcUR92iikPxOHFgRpGGLDBsLC_tPim5rkTN9sEjkjBQZMwPD_MA/s2779/v-Llyn-folding%20bags.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2120" data-original-width="2779" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVpefPq28PpSNpNbh86X7bXkwSAjPBO7wktwN6ZWoTr15kPMvSJPvolmmRt1oQcTdbGw4rxvYgyahBJ0wOp0yBU62rtjjtfi-VWiLKcxBnM9hKHahhctyJYH0UzNYT2WskF0E0S9DcUR92iikPxOHFgRpGGLDBsLC_tPim5rkTN9sEjkjBQZMwPD_MA/s320/v-Llyn-folding%20bags.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llyn, folding leaf bags for re-use.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxlUlHc2ScQuqxXsiwmJ7LfTaWHWVyGcQSfhHG7L9N6CNqVGiCWI1Jmxhh-wlTByEZjj_tEi4UJl7gq38XOrKTOmZkZEhegoxlWrBr5B9W9-7JrpVWyVG2iFHlXdoVwwBp5zoyG4X1eFQBTj8g7VqyA-G_Zug52btaXEwFroPnDQnHW5FkxifWiIrUA/s4128/GP-sign%20painting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxlUlHc2ScQuqxXsiwmJ7LfTaWHWVyGcQSfhHG7L9N6CNqVGiCWI1Jmxhh-wlTByEZjj_tEi4UJl7gq38XOrKTOmZkZEhegoxlWrBr5B9W9-7JrpVWyVG2iFHlXdoVwwBp5zoyG4X1eFQBTj8g7VqyA-G_Zug52btaXEwFroPnDQnHW5FkxifWiIrUA/s320/GP-sign%20painting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We place a sandwich-board sign out on the street, inviting neighbors to bring us their leaves and grass. Touching up the paint is a winter task...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzifNE1vfbdEJDm76H0mOYfIRoXqybzD-_c0-royQHqrFbQsuiOlWQ32GNQQUGghMgzs8CCIm1M_dqfmShz-7rHmDTJNUK3gYKjqwo-HchNPFWJ2Bdp-qviTf_t1X5DqtneWadPmUdmTwqaxRP7ZNQtU_RRK7ZXbhdiaE7gSl2U-jAX9Bq57wu1oOFVg/s2922/GP-leaves%20collected.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2922" data-original-width="2636" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzifNE1vfbdEJDm76H0mOYfIRoXqybzD-_c0-royQHqrFbQsuiOlWQ32GNQQUGghMgzs8CCIm1M_dqfmShz-7rHmDTJNUK3gYKjqwo-HchNPFWJ2Bdp-qviTf_t1X5DqtneWadPmUdmTwqaxRP7ZNQtU_RRK7ZXbhdiaE7gSl2U-jAX9Bq57wu1oOFVg/w361-h400/GP-leaves%20collected.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barrel on the left holds free bags that have been dried and rolled in bundles for people to re-use. We ask people to leave the bags untied and to turn them upside-down to prevent rain from getting in.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUOLcGLSh2y1vK05mPZwVKpe5q1YWKkiZpT9iDEOmbJc6YmmEy3W2vbiciZx-PxqmLXjC_Bnjdtl5OjrggSkfwPKJ7NPraiDLvFVPwhKvTQI2pMOmbdRB5hQtO7ddFhDYrQQrVnFFzcoEDAfCsL-L5MiBDJbhD47M2l2mcao7oCIToOdPTYjB1w14imw/s961/compost%20-%20hand.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="961" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUOLcGLSh2y1vK05mPZwVKpe5q1YWKkiZpT9iDEOmbJc6YmmEy3W2vbiciZx-PxqmLXjC_Bnjdtl5OjrggSkfwPKJ7NPraiDLvFVPwhKvTQI2pMOmbdRB5hQtO7ddFhDYrQQrVnFFzcoEDAfCsL-L5MiBDJbhD47M2l2mcao7oCIToOdPTYjB1w14imw/w200-h150/compost%20-%20hand.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>To read a detailed post about our <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2019/10/making-your-own-veganic-potting-soil-in.html" target="_blank"><b>veganic soil-making methods, CLICK HERE.</b></a><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBSvMwImSTIIUR-ZIya98lNK0c-BD_p1hfHYyAzoAqcouG_qw_hteSM9oeF9U88FVy3c9wnIDGx3mNKumY2KP4uNmkQ-TnM98jDNTbjBsvkOspdjWTbZrMo09xAv5jluV0RSjsP3d7SHVXGEnKMuxrFbH-7mNYim_s8o4Bd0nKzNusya_dDSuefiL1g/s3296/GP-ashes%20in%20fig%20bed.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3296" data-original-width="2472" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBSvMwImSTIIUR-ZIya98lNK0c-BD_p1hfHYyAzoAqcouG_qw_hteSM9oeF9U88FVy3c9wnIDGx3mNKumY2KP4uNmkQ-TnM98jDNTbjBsvkOspdjWTbZrMo09xAv5jluV0RSjsP3d7SHVXGEnKMuxrFbH-7mNYim_s8o4Bd0nKzNusya_dDSuefiL1g/s320/GP-ashes%20in%20fig%20bed.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />A small percentage of our soil fertility also comes from <b><span> </span>coffee grounds </b>collected from coffee shops by friends of the Gardens and <b>wood ash</b> (left), a by-product of how we heat our home. <b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/coffee-grounds-and-wood-ash-for-soil.html" target="_blank">Here is a LINK explaining the benefits of these free resources.</a></b><p></p><p><span>We're so very grateful to all our neighbors who have participated in this program this year.</span><b><span></span></b></p><p><b> </b><br /></p><br /><br />ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-6236302103615729212023-12-24T11:26:00.000-08:002023-12-26T08:59:22.801-08:00Coffee Grounds and Wood Ash for Soil Fertility <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coffee grounds collected from coffee-shops.</td></tr>
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Since we began weening ourselves off the use of animal manures as a
source of soil fertility, we have turned increasingly to
leaves, grass-clippings, wood-ash and coffee grounds as a replacement. Here is a summary of our <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/08/the-benefits-of-deep-mulching.html" target="_blank"><b>"Deep Mulch Method"</b></a> in which we cover the topic of leaves and grass and other organic materials in our gardens.<br />
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<b>Regarding coffee:</b><br />
<br />
<b>Coffee </b><span class="_Tgc"><b>grounds provide</b> generous amounts of <b>phosphorus</b>, <b>potassium</b>, <b>magnesium</b>, and <b>copper</b>. They also release <b>nitrogen</b> into the soil as they degrade.</span> When we have it, <b>we spread it about 1/4" thick</b> on beds before we plant<b>.</b> We also layer it into our compost piles. Here's an informative article about using coffee grounds in the garden: <a href="https://groundtoground.org/2010/07/05/ground-to-ground/" target="_blank"><b>The Ground to Ground Primer – Coffee Grounds for the Garden</b></a><br />
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For some reason, worms <i>love </i>coffee grounds! By sprinkling
grounds in your garden beds, you will attract worms to come into your
soil and, since coffee grounds also contain many nutrients on their own, we
also recommend adding them to your greenhouse paths and compost bins.
They will attract worms and speed up the process of decomposition.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw0LoiJ2U-Z1v63moMF0Os7tPfeFTeRczxtgt7nidn-grtJVz91t4b_GzvByJQ_bf2P5Eusijhs8wClK0r_wePLdrp4ztLr126W_tQ_5BoBSStBtcP-GRaLtgftHkrD8XMGHUIRC0zZZh/s1600/a-OSU-11-17+sift-coffee.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="1600" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw0LoiJ2U-Z1v63moMF0Os7tPfeFTeRczxtgt7nidn-grtJVz91t4b_GzvByJQ_bf2P5Eusijhs8wClK0r_wePLdrp4ztLr126W_tQ_5BoBSStBtcP-GRaLtgftHkrD8XMGHUIRC0zZZh/s400/a-OSU-11-17+sift-coffee.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We sift both our coffee grounds and wood-ashes. Here are students from Oregon State Univ. performing "service-learning" by sifting coffee grounds.</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>...and Wood Ash:</b></h3>
<b>Wood Ashes provide </b>all necessary nutrients for plant growth except<b> </b>nitrogen and sulfur.<b> </b><b> </b>We
use ashes from our wood-stove (that heats our house). We use only
newspaper to start the fires and burn pure wood. We don't burn anything
with paint; no ply-wood or other man-made products so the chemicals in
them don't get into our food-chain. <b>We sift the ashes</b> to remove any big
chunks, and<b> use a heavy-duty magnet to remove any screws or nails</b>. <b><u> </u></b><br />
<br />
<b><u>Be very careful not to use too much!</u></b> <b>We put just <i>the lightest dusting</i> in our beds.</b> <b>Do not use wood-ash to make a potting soil</b>. It is caustic to worms and will alkalize your soil so use only a little, and wait 7-10 days before planting seeds or seedlings<b>.</b>
Do not use around acid-loving plants (like blueberries, or in
potato-beds). Here's an article from SFGate's garden-site:<b><a href="https://homeguides.sfgate.com/enriching-soil-ash-31739.html" target="_blank"> About Enriching Soil With Ash</a>, and here are <a href="https://www.thespruce.com/what-to-do-with-fireplace-ashes-8411803" target="_blank">12 Uses for Fireplace Ashes That Are Suitable for Your Home</a> (beyond its use in the garden).</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmjlJ34k45eWO4OhZtDtqY6d55MBJExWm_JsrUPZcVF30Q_fGlqvjN8GNjiJ8Tbizh-s3qAdphI8wneTUKiFswBpwKv2PlbBnIDz9iNvU-ZnpPo6GbAyAf8-tcP1EfAPHgYvY1iyqzS8o/s1600/a-wood+stove+-+eggs2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmjlJ34k45eWO4OhZtDtqY6d55MBJExWm_JsrUPZcVF30Q_fGlqvjN8GNjiJ8Tbizh-s3qAdphI8wneTUKiFswBpwKv2PlbBnIDz9iNvU-ZnpPo6GbAyAf8-tcP1EfAPHgYvY1iyqzS8o/s320/a-wood+stove+-+eggs2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heating with wood has many benefits. Here's a wood-stove in one of our greenhouses we made from a barrel-kit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVTqfdictr5POkZN3LdcWwcy3lJEtFvYSHYetEVHZmSHnFeF-av6AX5gR9deJproF5Qg8pNCYXeRaWpcjsizntLs7kV_1Ivn79otIUIyd5k34Cqt8dyUiXQS30fB6iawoAlk3I_kDrtcaE/s1600/a-Caleb-coffee+helper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVTqfdictr5POkZN3LdcWwcy3lJEtFvYSHYetEVHZmSHnFeF-av6AX5gR9deJproF5Qg8pNCYXeRaWpcjsizntLs7kV_1Ivn79otIUIyd5k34Cqt8dyUiXQS30fB6iawoAlk3I_kDrtcaE/s320/a-Caleb-coffee+helper.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's Caleb - our youngest coffee-spreader!</td></tr>
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-34935289791268296372023-12-20T17:21:00.000-08:002023-12-22T09:26:42.794-08:00Gallery of Givers: Highlights from the 2023 Season<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPm_ojgdd3nzHHlW_N7TIjTe1nhV52GQTChGzJeQtrEvz6-j4-lGFIVqqxmGg3SIGZCZKtGhdUfEk91hfWcoBkqowD4INdj7_VSK4oCmr76KtI1gPqHzjI4xWFb-pLjy-O8hxF96UStHOqk_2uMsKJRNM5nixAxqg0xEmkGl8VEBNlWjhdpjNKQOWTTpMA/s1777/v.Joey.sifting.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1777" data-original-width="1393" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPm_ojgdd3nzHHlW_N7TIjTe1nhV52GQTChGzJeQtrEvz6-j4-lGFIVqqxmGg3SIGZCZKtGhdUfEk91hfWcoBkqowD4INdj7_VSK4oCmr76KtI1gPqHzjI4xWFb-pLjy-O8hxF96UStHOqk_2uMsKJRNM5nixAxqg0xEmkGl8VEBNlWjhdpjNKQOWTTpMA/s320/v.Joey.sifting.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><p><b>This has been a wonderful year at the Sharing Gardens</b>; much bounty, new friendships. Our experiments with Local, Plant-sourced Fertility (LINK: <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2022/12/how-we-growveganic-community-based.html" target="_blank"><b>How we grow...Veganic Community-based gardening</b>)</a> continue to yield massive quantities of highest quality soil/compost. Both our seed collection and our wildlife habitat grows with each year. Our lives, (me and Chris) are centered on this land, this project, this lifestyle. We are so fortunate to be able to to give all our focus to our life here at the Sharing Gardens.<br /></p><p>And yet, <b>we couldn't have done it without the dedicated help of our wonderful share-givers. Here is a gallery of some of the year's highlights</b>. (<b>That's Joey - above, </b>sifting compost scooped out of our greenhouse paths. Joey joined our crew this summer. He's been such an amazing contribution to the program. He's strong and generous of spirit and always willing to do whatever needs to get done.<b>)<u><br /></u></b></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPzJ9_tA5TVnhYA2KKcWp4J4T2FLETX-WAoSi8W0o75lK2VArxTw6nUnEp86boN61wN2d-nuO1qw1RCihYmE2JCxRDWE7OLL8ShqWtOdmgW5-OgauccDU77TIQK__BXD_1D3SCGUbEoHUqPf38R1WCTpSnCnF8fheTdzyxtzRXQUvS1Two_7ddie_Spd0/s1045/v-joey.Maddie-garlic%20joy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1045" data-original-width="882" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPzJ9_tA5TVnhYA2KKcWp4J4T2FLETX-WAoSi8W0o75lK2VArxTw6nUnEp86boN61wN2d-nuO1qw1RCihYmE2JCxRDWE7OLL8ShqWtOdmgW5-OgauccDU77TIQK__BXD_1D3SCGUbEoHUqPf38R1WCTpSnCnF8fheTdzyxtzRXQUvS1Two_7ddie_Spd0/w338-h400/v-joey.Maddie-garlic%20joy.jpg" width="338" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Share-givers typically come once a week for about three hours but we had
two gung-ho helpers who managed to come twice a week for much of the
summer, Joey and Maddie. Here they are harvesting elephant garlic in June. (Maddie had to go back to school this fall. We miss you Maddie, but we hope you'll come play in the Gardens again next summer and bring some of your young, strong, healthy friends!)</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Sometimes we work in small groups:</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2wV4s2BIiWyBPFf8dibHFQJJh1DFfi836i0gCD8uGIxSwqTXQD4Wa_2vLh3pDTtrT_P9gu-LbwQj6FIixK6FKBqgkpbkKxQbf7pXnhyphenhyphenMVZ_W9D-BnAJjUUzCsiXC-4fgqIBK6r1BnNurrNkYkJj9LVJPYdKqsvS4_Q1KgxQ1TkYACjaA9_pWTCpUERPQ/s2756/GP.9-8.potato%20dig.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1919" data-original-width="2756" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2wV4s2BIiWyBPFf8dibHFQJJh1DFfi836i0gCD8uGIxSwqTXQD4Wa_2vLh3pDTtrT_P9gu-LbwQj6FIixK6FKBqgkpbkKxQbf7pXnhyphenhyphenMVZ_W9D-BnAJjUUzCsiXC-4fgqIBK6r1BnNurrNkYkJj9LVJPYdKqsvS4_Q1KgxQ1TkYACjaA9_pWTCpUERPQ/w400-h279/GP.9-8.potato%20dig.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris, Joey and Jim digging potatoes.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4HG4TznGArwOiWwiSX0DCV-9PRDmZsjHshGETh-VUjSduHewwasmBbm7N0NAYkZ8hgqCChsXLFb_39sbaCiecPCzWlRNBF5ANRmZkrEebulL7F4MyQ3Yh72UCWbZX1cSIOBl0TzhURKMjc-m2TdW92o_WKZ70-Y1vjiftk0-grceU7IGsxekPkOpfxlX/s2404/GP.9-11.potato%20harvest%20153%20lbs.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1870" data-original-width="2404" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4HG4TznGArwOiWwiSX0DCV-9PRDmZsjHshGETh-VUjSduHewwasmBbm7N0NAYkZ8hgqCChsXLFb_39sbaCiecPCzWlRNBF5ANRmZkrEebulL7F4MyQ3Yh72UCWbZX1cSIOBl0TzhURKMjc-m2TdW92o_WKZ70-Y1vjiftk0-grceU7IGsxekPkOpfxlX/w400-h311/GP.9-11.potato%20harvest%20153%20lbs.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another group potato-dig. This was our best year yet. We harvested just over 400 pounds!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSk_FYTvitsiw1IcR2Eivny4VTtwScEFqBmcq6mmNs_Uj7K7mAGCHs_O5BjAjoIZkQMIDjowtHK2E_1iylo-yxPprkH3hgzoyFknxe0MplQA5JuqopBRaB3wnTyHUYKTFpdkEDZz-0zZCOTT1cF7vPV92G0ixTxBv_yZvApEm62C-mACoc9T1heGSeU_n/s2657/HV.sifting.Joey.Donn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2657" data-original-width="2241" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSk_FYTvitsiw1IcR2Eivny4VTtwScEFqBmcq6mmNs_Uj7K7mAGCHs_O5BjAjoIZkQMIDjowtHK2E_1iylo-yxPprkH3hgzoyFknxe0MplQA5JuqopBRaB3wnTyHUYKTFpdkEDZz-0zZCOTT1cF7vPV92G0ixTxBv_yZvApEm62C-mACoc9T1heGSeU_n/w338-h400/HV.sifting.Joey.Donn.jpg" width="338" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joey and Donn sift the compost we scoop out of our greenhouse paths. Chris here is bagging it in repurposed bags from pellet-stove fuel. In 2023, we estimate that we harvested about 200 bags of this 'black gold"! This becomes the foundation of our potting mix (which we haven't bought in several years) and is alsso used as a soil amendment in all our garden beds.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhte0EpYaQ766SdkSqz2dv7_84h9snqhdrXyZTQVStgNlU54cRPH8kWcN9REqcFM4T4XtjAkHpHgti7sYiZCfhyphenhyphenWdF-s7d74padizc5wOTq0ikR8zaJBpu4kzo1xMqtC8V7ZtpdYdCzQvTD-XuHKxyZZJb3V9_1VS1zfIWDxZj_nY0iMkrbRu-zX4ugC_Gs/s1705/v.Suzanne.Darlene.Chris.sifting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1307" data-original-width="1705" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhte0EpYaQ766SdkSqz2dv7_84h9snqhdrXyZTQVStgNlU54cRPH8kWcN9REqcFM4T4XtjAkHpHgti7sYiZCfhyphenhyphenWdF-s7d74padizc5wOTq0ikR8zaJBpu4kzo1xMqtC8V7ZtpdYdCzQvTD-XuHKxyZZJb3V9_1VS1zfIWDxZj_nY0iMkrbRu-zX4ugC_Gs/w400-h306/v.Suzanne.Darlene.Chris.sifting.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suzanne, Darlene and Chris sifting compost. It's full of worm eggs which then hatch over the course of the winter while still in the bags, or in the garden beds next spring.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgClvos0m_HxnrpZCSLO9kdzVO7W7hk5PLReP-qKSVpFfUvG1XRJCVXNRTm60uVaKg99p2b4pH60FH5CNaEaZhvGPwb4-ZprhEmrJOaDH0SI556EI1JOez2aanFTF1bQueFcf-_C8pRIMAhedXM5tdgwFafodkKnTUSihLO5OeXIJP0puNijckFmzSyHZSz/s1589/OSU.11.2023.Venecia.Michael.Chris.apples.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1492" data-original-width="1589" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgClvos0m_HxnrpZCSLO9kdzVO7W7hk5PLReP-qKSVpFfUvG1XRJCVXNRTm60uVaKg99p2b4pH60FH5CNaEaZhvGPwb4-ZprhEmrJOaDH0SI556EI1JOez2aanFTF1bQueFcf-_C8pRIMAhedXM5tdgwFafodkKnTUSihLO5OeXIJP0puNijckFmzSyHZSz/w400-h375/OSU.11.2023.Venecia.Michael.Chris.apples.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venecia and Michael from OSU's Service Learning program, help Chris gather apples in the midst of a downpour. The light was incredible that day; golden-peachy, coming through the clouds, rain in showers and everything washed clean and bright - including the air. It was a great fruit year this past summer! This is the first year these trees, planted in 2013, yielded significant fruit. And boy did they! </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpCZebibbz1kQRnhp1aCEgWI0khIR35tYglXoJFg1u2WCeGuvBhKlU1drpq-oNgR4hZJ9KCXpYbSgmKvANslpKTPGKDvAFQ_S4XjDEWe1xKTNrGCeNWL9bXtMuLINzKFRBNQ7vVLUu_W5B5cWaaL9k9rBGsEcdYVeADefHBbo3o9pvGBnyOkwZBvxU73M/s2395/OSU.4.2024-.Anne.Kimmy.Ver.leaf%20tarp.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2235" data-original-width="2395" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpCZebibbz1kQRnhp1aCEgWI0khIR35tYglXoJFg1u2WCeGuvBhKlU1drpq-oNgR4hZJ9KCXpYbSgmKvANslpKTPGKDvAFQ_S4XjDEWe1xKTNrGCeNWL9bXtMuLINzKFRBNQ7vVLUu_W5B5cWaaL9k9rBGsEcdYVeADefHBbo3o9pvGBnyOkwZBvxU73M/w400-h374/OSU.4.2024-.Anne.Kimmy.Ver.leaf%20tarp.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In these next two pics, OSU students from a Sustainability class performed <i>service learning</i> at the Sharing Gardens and received college credit for their efforts.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN-zidQF4Td4prCNuITxqjg2JNMxZ72sPwEnjIudVuQC1YkP0kZmVW-sC9FJztExeqnV4XtdGofd7KgScGsrM4Xr8Ak_Q1_bx7Z9jRJ5tDoRbcPwMVfEWCwGqmwfK78tIneXq0kHAx6nsobQrBPlLELfcYFuhCQL3Pbi2fUfWfu9cl1708Oha_zBXV13xQ/s1534/OSU.4.2024-Veronica.Emma.Chris.leaf%20tarp.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1534" data-original-width="1322" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN-zidQF4Td4prCNuITxqjg2JNMxZ72sPwEnjIudVuQC1YkP0kZmVW-sC9FJztExeqnV4XtdGofd7KgScGsrM4Xr8Ak_Q1_bx7Z9jRJ5tDoRbcPwMVfEWCwGqmwfK78tIneXq0kHAx6nsobQrBPlLELfcYFuhCQL3Pbi2fUfWfu9cl1708Oha_zBXV13xQ/w345-h400/OSU.4.2024-Veronica.Emma.Chris.leaf%20tarp.jpg" width="345" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the tasks they performed was to load leaves onto tarps and distribute them in the beds we eventually grew winter squash in. <b>We are especially grateful to the Dillards and Crosby's</b> - two neighborhood households who donate the vast majority of their leaves to our project. They bring them by the trailer-load!</td></tr></tbody></table></b><b>Sometimes it's great just to be in pairs...</b><br /><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EYQfLkvf0fbgs7AsGpS3-a5xXNP5NT9l1vP1zHsrvXdtBPkV5vaW3bYq76ATrjMYaIus4EmnqVenPCCMuqOmBvPLkx-fVan6cZYgTHAyvt55WG4l_AsvXlZ6qRKqSc_hOshd3ZXo6G-T0KZSoNKikwQ8wWYVJpIa08nR6VliqZoMBbXxqSjIQOO6J3H7/s978/v.Darlene.Sandra-potato%20fun.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="978" data-original-width="574" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EYQfLkvf0fbgs7AsGpS3-a5xXNP5NT9l1vP1zHsrvXdtBPkV5vaW3bYq76ATrjMYaIus4EmnqVenPCCMuqOmBvPLkx-fVan6cZYgTHAyvt55WG4l_AsvXlZ6qRKqSc_hOshd3ZXo6G-T0KZSoNKikwQ8wWYVJpIa08nR6VliqZoMBbXxqSjIQOO6J3H7/w235-h400/v.Darlene.Sandra-potato%20fun.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darlene and Sandra - fun in the potato patch!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNMWTQy8tEfAl9X1L-iV7x_4A5X9WMPNDNHePdXDTfNSp1uwWQK6oN7U69h-112aKTwM5hIkvIhpcKtqk65Ltf-541ds6MEZPDes_55pjLk8YrFBHBcaMCzb4k-rXxZIEJbMu0o-RZJ41pHFxOhE-WAwOTYzgSC1VjpuvAakFeMjhHgtqdxDEWkZs7nCr_/s3672/HV.applesauce.Suz.Darlene.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2634" data-original-width="3672" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNMWTQy8tEfAl9X1L-iV7x_4A5X9WMPNDNHePdXDTfNSp1uwWQK6oN7U69h-112aKTwM5hIkvIhpcKtqk65Ltf-541ds6MEZPDes_55pjLk8YrFBHBcaMCzb4k-rXxZIEJbMu0o-RZJ41pHFxOhE-WAwOTYzgSC1VjpuvAakFeMjhHgtqdxDEWkZs7nCr_/w400-h288/HV.applesauce.Suz.Darlene.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suzanne and Darlene cutting up apples for applesauce. Our fruit trees were amazingly productive (as were most trees in the southern Willamette valley of western Oregon where we live.). We canned 49 quarts of applesauce. Lots for us and lots to share!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4679i1cbUa8R634-gpyy2OI2euf5nET-1bP4yj-IAkrSMmk7LPzEy_mhyphenhyphentMygVObu53pr7PKVAP8FH619IZ0OuzMvLVmI18WkHeINLc6EQqLDiMrWyAhpi5O9x-pg_x2_hzU-cYGfQfIU013shKr2rdVi0WEO6l_eNnuWWPRYd4Upb-B6YfZAD1zHgrBc/s2482/HV.sorghum.beans.Jim.Chris.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2038" data-original-width="2482" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4679i1cbUa8R634-gpyy2OI2euf5nET-1bP4yj-IAkrSMmk7LPzEy_mhyphenhyphentMygVObu53pr7PKVAP8FH619IZ0OuzMvLVmI18WkHeINLc6EQqLDiMrWyAhpi5O9x-pg_x2_hzU-cYGfQfIU013shKr2rdVi0WEO6l_eNnuWWPRYd4Upb-B6YfZAD1zHgrBc/w400-h329/HV.sorghum.beans.Jim.Chris.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More autumn tasks...Jim is teasing the sorghum seed-heads off their stalks (<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2023/11/grow-your-own-sorghum-for-grain-and.html" target="_blank">Grow Your Own Sorghum for Grain and Flour</a></b>). Chris is shelling dried beans (we grew over 50 pounds of dried beans in 2023!) Chris and I held back this year's harvest for our own use and distributed all that was left over from last year amongst our sharegivers. (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2016/05/grow-your-own-protein-scarlet-runner.html" target="_blank"><b>Grow Your Own Protein: Scarlet Runner beans</b></a>).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tVMEty1iqM6rjWiCPuKKuo1fJsKTt4ASNi4JWjxwekzmHERcxre4EiI5Rdmu4qHxrZ8JBGPxwEyuHJBQMtnb7L7EHxwSEn2Ga1x0YM2lEfD-NLiFc8zeBW5RohNMwKALSRL9m8PVaguledHPdRbZcL1Vh0-3V-fa4XxVMFIm8_n9w6KkF-kIefjVl88a/s2450/HV.celery.Chris.Donn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2450" data-original-width="1636" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tVMEty1iqM6rjWiCPuKKuo1fJsKTt4ASNi4JWjxwekzmHERcxre4EiI5Rdmu4qHxrZ8JBGPxwEyuHJBQMtnb7L7EHxwSEn2Ga1x0YM2lEfD-NLiFc8zeBW5RohNMwKALSRL9m8PVaguledHPdRbZcL1Vh0-3V-fa4XxVMFIm8_n9w6KkF-kIefjVl88a/w268-h400/HV.celery.Chris.Donn.jpg" width="268" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snacking in the celery patch! Chris and Donn with a big harvest on its way to the food pantry.</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>And here are a few wonderful solo pics:</b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hVR9bACjwW-t40q3LTXTpyND0ZxIqUg2V6WlQd3gYrLhGOQct0sY8uGQV_obBxZ2YXE_6pWHn1-zgUmfFxSzTZ5zRh9C0tS6TJoIjE7Yp2Jkjnf1NQ7aoxIG2x7KmXcpB41-yyNSugyh2SGXMyOliPG6M3fEsSRTjOGgUjZIbs6ngoZ6JmXfRmqPYuuV/s3264/HV.broccoli.3%20heads.Llyn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hVR9bACjwW-t40q3LTXTpyND0ZxIqUg2V6WlQd3gYrLhGOQct0sY8uGQV_obBxZ2YXE_6pWHn1-zgUmfFxSzTZ5zRh9C0tS6TJoIjE7Yp2Jkjnf1NQ7aoxIG2x7KmXcpB41-yyNSugyh2SGXMyOliPG6M3fEsSRTjOGgUjZIbs6ngoZ6JmXfRmqPYuuV/w300-h400/HV.broccoli.3%20heads.Llyn.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here I am, Llyn, with a bouquet of broccoli comprised of three heads bunched together. Our spring broccoli didn't perform very well but this fall crop grew with great vigor and vitality! There's just no comparison between store-bought and home-grown, fresh broccoli. So sweet and tender!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYjWgX_NhUUGdX7EDPuxmDjgCzWZG9Yt33LMv_4-EXoBA1r2NTquO2rg1h4No9dhmRGLMpZ30DNdQSfpqlGJcIC9S-SfK08unPozH1asoa_1Ades5xM-RbC8pl8l7gox8EsNxG7xLQVA5OrbgpA_XJ5jBIc1Fc624vOP_cZRDdMb8TaHtvBRiGaSwX7FO/s1476/Jim-harvest%20grass.CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1476" data-original-width="1156" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYjWgX_NhUUGdX7EDPuxmDjgCzWZG9Yt33LMv_4-EXoBA1r2NTquO2rg1h4No9dhmRGLMpZ30DNdQSfpqlGJcIC9S-SfK08unPozH1asoa_1Ades5xM-RbC8pl8l7gox8EsNxG7xLQVA5OrbgpA_XJ5jBIc1Fc624vOP_cZRDdMb8TaHtvBRiGaSwX7FO/w314-h400/Jim-harvest%20grass.CU.jpg" width="314" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim loves to mow - and we are SO grateful!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SOgxiGr37GbVn_dSRrKE2E-zYptc_y7_oOpAb2r9ID2he7xZ-vp_qcM4lNC9Ct29SATm7W-42uHHqS2vI6KWtrAzR_m4bygCYIYIHMBXoTHVQ7QBfwpwGcJydSS8kLF1s99BxN4Ippfs3QVQfFakUIou7cdC4LQVQdYbMNJFhOS2to2YvwY8go9e47w9/s2152/v.23.8.Cindy.onion.amaranth.CU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2152" data-original-width="1294" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SOgxiGr37GbVn_dSRrKE2E-zYptc_y7_oOpAb2r9ID2he7xZ-vp_qcM4lNC9Ct29SATm7W-42uHHqS2vI6KWtrAzR_m4bygCYIYIHMBXoTHVQ7QBfwpwGcJydSS8kLF1s99BxN4Ippfs3QVQfFakUIou7cdC4LQVQdYbMNJFhOS2to2YvwY8go9e47w9/w240-h400/v.23.8.Cindy.onion.amaranth.CU.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy, with her many years experience, is a fast and thorough harvester. Here she is with most of our white onion harvest.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihep7wzrU0qIKgqGFkHCJWFot8XXOU7UeFqCYJf6WZzYuJJbck2iIyp1swmVYGOxgwsmUFxEpognqHWdTxMFAe8eQSLipeEyag7hBTZuRYjPPeAiKRux04f3LWYdbjGiKBnOf0bFniLzS055EZgkv4RC3rg8M3BYYqD_Q05AlbiOYSFdH62le79KwZ9Fik/s2127/v.Suzanne.sorghum.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2127" data-original-width="1535" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihep7wzrU0qIKgqGFkHCJWFot8XXOU7UeFqCYJf6WZzYuJJbck2iIyp1swmVYGOxgwsmUFxEpognqHWdTxMFAe8eQSLipeEyag7hBTZuRYjPPeAiKRux04f3LWYdbjGiKBnOf0bFniLzS055EZgkv4RC3rg8M3BYYqD_Q05AlbiOYSFdH62le79KwZ9Fik/w289-h400/v.Suzanne.sorghum.jpg" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suzanne, threshing sorghum.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigUNWPngy4CuiCG-kMTCMq98CKCKI29_u95C6x0uetPMy1e8B63FF7zO1EfVAMHUpZFyswoxdTz0f3zCvMLit8h8g2YU-o05Kl7vycog-neNY5yMQEpuEVlc31yP0ZkPPA5UPTDboU_3eaRuZ6e9UL9zX31b4Bg6eKOiN3OsxSiKbyZRW-Dbp0lSCRkbaK/s1174/v-Rook.BaYeKi%20sorghum.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1174" data-original-width="976" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigUNWPngy4CuiCG-kMTCMq98CKCKI29_u95C6x0uetPMy1e8B63FF7zO1EfVAMHUpZFyswoxdTz0f3zCvMLit8h8g2YU-o05Kl7vycog-neNY5yMQEpuEVlc31yP0ZkPPA5UPTDboU_3eaRuZ6e9UL9zX31b4Bg6eKOiN3OsxSiKbyZRW-Dbp0lSCRkbaK/w333-h400/v-Rook.BaYeKi%20sorghum.jpg" width="333" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rook has been a champion sorghum harvester. Here he is with a variety called Ba Ye Qi which has a short season so it works well in northern climates. He's dealing with some severe health problems this year so missed much of the summer/fall season. We're holding him in our thoughts and prayers that he'll be able to rejoin us in the spring.<br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdAkrjpWbulzV53JblaJhZwYqPiWGOUTK8S-h3cLlJ0RBY9uywG34tNDZ6Tvl3moO2nSUNyhbs60X7XUmkG0ZWIX_nYd9DFqg1lZAC2JdEn-y4Uvg0wEUBTVHUuvzrcwiE2kO55PQ5uhpe1UopBeyzSiWyMctKJo_iyxg0xQcyxHVM7dnLmZhZLNAFSug/s2994/HV.Sept.2023.llyn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2994" data-original-width="2068" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdAkrjpWbulzV53JblaJhZwYqPiWGOUTK8S-h3cLlJ0RBY9uywG34tNDZ6Tvl3moO2nSUNyhbs60X7XUmkG0ZWIX_nYd9DFqg1lZAC2JdEn-y4Uvg0wEUBTVHUuvzrcwiE2kO55PQ5uhpe1UopBeyzSiWyMctKJo_iyxg0xQcyxHVM7dnLmZhZLNAFSug/w276-h400/HV.Sept.2023.llyn.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llyn with part of a day's harvest in the autumn. It's often difficult to find room on all the tables and benches to put everything! Food is distributed first to our sharegivers (including other supporters of the garden such as our neighbors' landscaper, Chuy who brings over all their surplus grass-clippings and leaves) and the copious surplus is donated to food charities.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQGoviHXTIb0QYp3fPAAimBo3iqsC6T5GDayrwpvM6Dzk5dNsC2cRfq3z1HN8g5F_1pUFPU8W2g9Rtc-W6Pr_JHm9usITM_oDli7m7lpgf5HSWNtRI3Dxqh3_f4wDuJlZH8ZoyEPVjiojX31lnNQj2LzwcRbCDqAYzwkzv_2R4PFh-DC6rLJZ66aAyWbK/s2187/HV.Cindy.apple%20pie-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2187" data-original-width="1650" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQGoviHXTIb0QYp3fPAAimBo3iqsC6T5GDayrwpvM6Dzk5dNsC2cRfq3z1HN8g5F_1pUFPU8W2g9Rtc-W6Pr_JHm9usITM_oDli7m7lpgf5HSWNtRI3Dxqh3_f4wDuJlZH8ZoyEPVjiojX31lnNQj2LzwcRbCDqAYzwkzv_2R4PFh-DC6rLJZ66aAyWbK/w301-h400/HV.Cindy.apple%20pie-.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and our beloved Cindy who, like the best Grandma, bakes cookies and pies to share with us at snack time in the Gardens (and sometimes she'll make something just for me and Chris!).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>We always love having family and past participants come join us for garden fun...</b></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBchLKt9KcTUvoYIOjDJZ0wb9lX-tRFsKRkx84AIi-f8hRCU9QYP7aoTDNcD-P464HlWyGRzXvA1_PcbriFAGUKGL52Jtj72xwpTP5yr8Vdg37gbvClr73R0nRj_clNFZtfcjryXUsyQ5VVKANpANWU_NtG4PQnj3IGes3pXcZ4WVQ-Ky1ETpopMseAZU/s3038/v-Craig%20sifting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3038" data-original-width="2218" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBchLKt9KcTUvoYIOjDJZ0wb9lX-tRFsKRkx84AIi-f8hRCU9QYP7aoTDNcD-P464HlWyGRzXvA1_PcbriFAGUKGL52Jtj72xwpTP5yr8Vdg37gbvClr73R0nRj_clNFZtfcjryXUsyQ5VVKANpANWU_NtG4PQnj3IGes3pXcZ4WVQ-Ky1ETpopMseAZU/w293-h400/v-Craig%20sifting.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llyn's uncle Craig always jumps right in to help whenever he comes to visit. Here he is sifting compost.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJgRnMpbmVQ6F33kUpFI1Ve-gkt2gNUjf75snpRq_bNFyoCXcXlmXXixzBOGU0A4hJtW99oIvOfy9BZXKAwZ6pOAPm5LCrlaWjR-oQ5pGH-o4zrDa7rQfXj_q2hbmJIA0dhxnsph3XyoFE6BYJttdmcTDESBnX_diIyFulPNkHD2z4L1cCBTMr6MJUJuxm/s1678/v.cindy,adri.Judy%20-%20laughing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1181" data-original-width="1678" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJgRnMpbmVQ6F33kUpFI1Ve-gkt2gNUjf75snpRq_bNFyoCXcXlmXXixzBOGU0A4hJtW99oIvOfy9BZXKAwZ6pOAPm5LCrlaWjR-oQ5pGH-o4zrDa7rQfXj_q2hbmJIA0dhxnsph3XyoFE6BYJttdmcTDESBnX_diIyFulPNkHD2z4L1cCBTMr6MJUJuxm/w400-h281/v.cindy,adri.Judy%20-%20laughing.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had wonderful visits from Cindy's (left) granddaughter Adri (middle) this summer. Adri's 12 now and has been coming to the gardens since a few months after she was born. She's moved to Tennessee now but on her visit she was a great help in the Gardens. That's Judy on the right; Llyn's Mom. We can't thank her enough for her profound support over the years. Our "greatest fan"! And super-helpful too! In this picture we were telling childhood stories at snack time and having a great laugh!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></b><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0WwjsWcM6LdxakeGw8yc28icxuY3gh_-o3w2uHK79PnGsY1tstzIShSFK5b10EMZPEwF_hQR39RlgkPDWhB21b0aO_X0CCOFDgq5ts5cqL92l73520G5SiSqUovfDB-aSYGIuBLAE-Z8C95MtxE8eLlvpNDk27-1tgFrwbvvpbJ3A4SxqOlIqQXApYjU/s1546/v.Judy.lettuce.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1257" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0WwjsWcM6LdxakeGw8yc28icxuY3gh_-o3w2uHK79PnGsY1tstzIShSFK5b10EMZPEwF_hQR39RlgkPDWhB21b0aO_X0CCOFDgq5ts5cqL92l73520G5SiSqUovfDB-aSYGIuBLAE-Z8C95MtxE8eLlvpNDk27-1tgFrwbvvpbJ3A4SxqOlIqQXApYjU/w325-h400/v.Judy.lettuce.jpg" width="325" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's another one of Judy/Mom teasing baby lettuce plants apart for transplanting into the beds. Thanks for everything, Mom!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQnIw5D-WSYkYdCdNtPkB8SwiyEikYnrnbGnAgrtM7TmuUjBRD_J4zkOVNELVyO-SVGqbiFFBtSR0Ak_4VIbc-IPM0utPGYtVZrQNlz_qRUGPfcCLWp2Y4kulc465N-IInDcyObygy7otGIu4TAI7k6aULJUOTGpXHLzHemwrZTh7U_udsAR8LXAoRN6J/s1634/v.Chris.Joey.apples.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1252" data-original-width="1634" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQnIw5D-WSYkYdCdNtPkB8SwiyEikYnrnbGnAgrtM7TmuUjBRD_J4zkOVNELVyO-SVGqbiFFBtSR0Ak_4VIbc-IPM0utPGYtVZrQNlz_qRUGPfcCLWp2Y4kulc465N-IInDcyObygy7otGIu4TAI7k6aULJUOTGpXHLzHemwrZTh7U_udsAR8LXAoRN6J/w400-h306/v.Chris.Joey.apples.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally...We always try to make time for snacking in the Garden! Here's Chris and Joey enjoying our delicious
home-grown apples. (Joey moved to Portland at the end of the season...We
miss you Joey!).</td></tr></tbody></table>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0Monroe, OR 97456, USA44.3140116 -123.296763715.479867260799018 -158.45301369999999 73.14815593920099 -88.1405137tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-34962123070987561112023-12-14T09:36:00.000-08:002023-12-18T11:10:23.881-08:00Full Circle Generosity - some examples...<div class="separator"><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrI35C6g_5NRlUsnyaU7oklHPv_7Qm8J7U2ZIRl6N_Fy0AzqthO4SlZGjAiRcPvUr5t7dtYEExd6QxAiBHgPl_zlMEQVePZkQzEJqvPBVhjGnU4uNZ3lRNFbK9qUf3tu7IVyhrkm2JgPKEPyasRZqtiE_0AnrdF0OikUlCAdFqg6omH2FZzS9nyz0m3JQ/s1506/OSU_HSRC-group-close%20up.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1506" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrI35C6g_5NRlUsnyaU7oklHPv_7Qm8J7U2ZIRl6N_Fy0AzqthO4SlZGjAiRcPvUr5t7dtYEExd6QxAiBHgPl_zlMEQVePZkQzEJqvPBVhjGnU4uNZ3lRNFbK9qUf3tu7IVyhrkm2JgPKEPyasRZqtiE_0AnrdF0OikUlCAdFqg6omH2FZzS9nyz0m3JQ/s320/OSU_HSRC-group-close%20up.jpg" width="319" /></a><b>The Sharing Gardens is a unique kind of community garden: </b>Instead of many separate plots that are rented by individuals, the garden is one large plot, shared by all. All materials and labor are donated. Share-givers (volunteers) typically come one to two times per week (at scheduled times) to help in all aspects of farming from planting, through harvest and seed-saving. The food we grow is shared amongst those who have contributed in some way as well as with others who are in need in our community through food pantries and other charities. (<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_6.html" target="_blank"><b>Overview and Benefits of the Sharing Gardens)</b> </a></p></div><p></p><p><b>The Gardens operate on the principle of mutual- or full-circle generosity, finding ways to help each other in the community in which we live. </b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS7Hw42hWnvhXmKMD2ZThddt23GCRRNz-yef-Q0T0DiP25H9WfrsqOH8kD7ti6tDh1wv0f62lnUH8nbNW9QzlL-kj6NA-izsDKDrL2DyI55JAjo5XBRw48mLnwsjWX7KdGXYZNxKw1Mua9Ckz3Fto46kR8YNzA_4sXWZ9DFPjUYYb9oaOt5U1RWSBJIhI/s1814/ART.share4hunger.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1766" data-original-width="1814" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS7Hw42hWnvhXmKMD2ZThddt23GCRRNz-yef-Q0T0DiP25H9WfrsqOH8kD7ti6tDh1wv0f62lnUH8nbNW9QzlL-kj6NA-izsDKDrL2DyI55JAjo5XBRw48mLnwsjWX7KdGXYZNxKw1Mua9Ckz3Fto46kR8YNzA_4sXWZ9DFPjUYYb9oaOt5U1RWSBJIhI/w200-h195/ART.share4hunger.jpg" width="200" /></a><b></b></div><b>Here are two actual examples of how this works:</b><p></p><p>The <b>Garden's fertility comes primarily from leaves, grass, wood ash </b>(we heat entirely with wood and save the leftover charcoal and ashes) and <b>composted fruits and veg from our own table scraps and the food pantry which shares our parking lot.</b> <b>This was the fourth season that we grew our crops without use of commercial fertilizers, store-bought amendments, livestock manures or any animal by-products</b>; in other words: <b>veganically. (<a href="https://goveganic.net/what-is-veganic/introduction-to-veganics/" target="_blank">LINK-Introduction to veganics</a></b>). We've written extensively about our veganic methods in previous posts. Here's a <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/05/locally-sustainable-gardening-in-face.html" target="_blank"><b>LINK to Locally Sustainable Gardening in the Face of Supply-Chain Shortages.</b></a><br /></p><p><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRxHDVDzLebbJwZu2moFLkKU_BQDalQ8XPUlBv1zpFgoGTOzQuLxC6QW8MeBV_l3nFTkzMQqpsGltQNAGbYHiGqkFBqmgyB5mxZHWtL5-u7ZpuD6NCetQGTCPpc9i6CB4Nvuf-dqRlg2sBfe3ckMCXVyfhKyWiDWTMQTVx9qW03Ga9_3DntRTZZZWsLH5/s2359/HV.apple%20compost.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2173" data-original-width="2359" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRxHDVDzLebbJwZu2moFLkKU_BQDalQ8XPUlBv1zpFgoGTOzQuLxC6QW8MeBV_l3nFTkzMQqpsGltQNAGbYHiGqkFBqmgyB5mxZHWtL5-u7ZpuD6NCetQGTCPpc9i6CB4Nvuf-dqRlg2sBfe3ckMCXVyfhKyWiDWTMQTVx9qW03Ga9_3DntRTZZZWsLH5/w400-h369/HV.apple%20compost.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Much of the Garden's fertility comes from yard waste and food scraps from our own kitchen and produce "past its prime" from the food pantry that shares our parking lot. Worms absolutely love apples and other sweet fruits. The pile above was layered with the 'scraps' alternating with leaves and compost that wasn't fully finished. We mounded it up over 3-feet high and covered it with a tarp. it will be finished and ready for use by early spring.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>Full-circle Farming: </b>It is said that <b>"for every calorie that leaves a farm, at least a
calorie must replace it"</b>. This means that if the Sharing Gardens were
to continue to give away as much produce as we do, and do nothing to
replace the organic matter/bio-mass that this represents, that <b>our soil
would not only diminish in terms of fertility and minerals </b>but each year
we would actually have <b>physically less soil</b>. <b>We have addressed this
challenge</b> <b>by creating a drop-off site for neighbors to bring us their
grass-clippings and leaves</b> that would just be a waste-product if they
had to keep it on their own land. (We have no yard-waste pick-up in our
small town and residents are not allowed to burn yard-waste during
summer months due to fire danger). <b>So, by providing this drop-off site,
it keeps these precious materials from going into the land-fill or
polluting the air.</b><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1361" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYVxegaTmDju7DrfYmxMRNiCf9MCDJcPjKuLhlHqFJiuHdvP97DIiOt8le3WWdWwgcav3lsR5vE-D11Fd03GXcIkJrjtSetU7wK5L6H-kDSVd3FsOCuZY6YDX7DTPXSxr-Udx_rWdThY/s400/sign-leaves-grass-SG-GP-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="340" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is the donation drop-off site for leaves and grass in front of the Sharing Gardens. The trash can is full of plastic bags we've dried, rolled into bunches of 5-6 and make available for free re-use.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkVXjPH7FUh4Btvu7Jor3urxCix7Vsgr6bpZzRUuQFzJO654eKkw-yRa3G1Ird-OAHsaB2EKBsAjoHgw5fBV6jbPeUg0QcBpLi9S4-H0Q1yR3zQaOUEzne7gM-OI86Zhpq6Aj7SF6ShwWhPYX6Qj31D53old48wjbSXN3xI6FOqWZhn0tS9IPSeSGaCMe/s3296/GP-Dillard%20corner%202019.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2126" data-original-width="3296" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkVXjPH7FUh4Btvu7Jor3urxCix7Vsgr6bpZzRUuQFzJO654eKkw-yRa3G1Ird-OAHsaB2EKBsAjoHgw5fBV6jbPeUg0QcBpLi9S4-H0Q1yR3zQaOUEzne7gM-OI86Zhpq6Aj7SF6ShwWhPYX6Qj31D53old48wjbSXN3xI6FOqWZhn0tS9IPSeSGaCMe/w400-h258/GP-Dillard%20corner%202019.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are especially grateful to our neighbors, the Dillards who send us
their substantial surplus of leaves and grass-clippings (their home sits
on 3-acres). Here's the corner of the Sharing Gardens that shares their
fence line.</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3VJ72gBXXUxvb8P0otxGJ5pnb-0zNFnXA7ZDJVWJzoxJHUEjQvr_s6taA7UHpLFkYKBnpRXVgc-f4VVi_jrR5dnc_mRjeeJuddyjvo-qAf4PC-QKaH7lVh1RVFKR8AeHOUgdj_EDJ1mGw10YDuKUpNLRrtVsBZaMGBLYyqhcBQHySszKRev52E5c3X6i/s2529/crosby-brandon-leaves.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2529" data-original-width="2022" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3VJ72gBXXUxvb8P0otxGJ5pnb-0zNFnXA7ZDJVWJzoxJHUEjQvr_s6taA7UHpLFkYKBnpRXVgc-f4VVi_jrR5dnc_mRjeeJuddyjvo-qAf4PC-QKaH7lVh1RVFKR8AeHOUgdj_EDJ1mGw10YDuKUpNLRrtVsBZaMGBLYyqhcBQHySszKRev52E5c3X6i/w320-h400/crosby-brandon-leaves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We have another 'neighbor' (up the road) who also donates massive amounts of leaves each fall. Here's David (left) and one of his helpers donating a load of leaves with his dump-trailer.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGyN7dR_oo0efkVU-Jn20C_5YoQWqNgONKorKa391FdyrjeCHSOE8prE2xuNcu6ee-adKVYSxyexOWffHbdWB75Ct87KWKoEk-ceVodT7AIbuwjS95_fNp8B2ZfNgZqdvEjXNSXOKYbbRAwKJGCevd-1caPwhRWJxNSyXSK_mKsKPC7-HJ0kBgH0ErpNRB/s2994/HV.Sept.2023.llyn.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2994" data-original-width="2068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGyN7dR_oo0efkVU-Jn20C_5YoQWqNgONKorKa391FdyrjeCHSOE8prE2xuNcu6ee-adKVYSxyexOWffHbdWB75Ct87KWKoEk-ceVodT7AIbuwjS95_fNp8B2ZfNgZqdvEjXNSXOKYbbRAwKJGCevd-1caPwhRWJxNSyXSK_mKsKPC7-HJ0kBgH0ErpNRB/s320/HV.Sept.2023.llyn.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><b>The leaves and grass-clippings are donated. This keeps them out of burn-piles or landfills. It contributes to garden fertility. We grow vegetables and give them to those who have contributed in some way and donate the surplus to food charities. Full Circle!</b> (left; Llyn, assembling the harvest for distribution to our share-givers/volunteers and food pantries.) <br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVpCYwBYafy1lwDDG-heu7XrdxG96K7FLoB7OjSTSgCHEGxMJtpUJdLfTozJ_Zmj-HqzxH-34OQSGMSM0gnLEUX1rvrteGJ-YOrPq5_Ty3q_KuKJjvnwOicXjy4YxuJ3uvGGSlg62LxvNw01OdAzSytZVgwnTg3ixLUP2lH1MXekcbIueeSONkVLAlZRV/s3264/FH.baskets.woodstove.drying.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVpCYwBYafy1lwDDG-heu7XrdxG96K7FLoB7OjSTSgCHEGxMJtpUJdLfTozJ_Zmj-HqzxH-34OQSGMSM0gnLEUX1rvrteGJ-YOrPq5_Ty3q_KuKJjvnwOicXjy4YxuJ3uvGGSlg62LxvNw01OdAzSytZVgwnTg3ixLUP2lH1MXekcbIueeSONkVLAlZRV/s320/FH.baskets.woodstove.drying.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><b>Firewood and wood ash: We heat our home entirely with wood </b>(left). As we mentioned before, <b>wood ash</b>
is another source of garden fertility <b>(<a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/coffee-grounds-and-wood-ash-for-soil.html" target="_blank">LINK: Coffee Grounds and Wood Ash for Soil Fertility</a>)</b>. Though this year we
purchased the majority of our firewood, we also <b>received a large
donation</b> of seasoned madrone tree 'rounds'. Madrone trees produce a
super-dense hardwood that burns slow and hot. Our friend Steve Rose
calls it "the closest plant-source to burning coal"! The madrone was
donated by the warehouse manager of Local Aid - a food pantry that
receives a majority of our donations (though the wood came from her
personally, not the pantry). Our dear friend and long-term garden
volunteer Donn Dussell brought his wood-splitter and helped us split the
wood. <b>We kept half, and donated the other half to a family in-need.</b><p></p><p><b>We receive donations of firewood. Donn donates the use of his splitter and his time splitting the wood. We burn the wood (and share some with a family in-need). The ashes create fertility in the Gardens. We have surplus veggies to share in the community. Full Circle!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56kgwtR_lppnBwPnBMa-U_nVloyrbFPqcv8U3VDDN4gqFqQI_vDqrlL2DzpbeOtkVAM3G1wdv6Pi4cpZvwyZcKo5zfsr2ukeGin4SR09zGScXlGGIvCkJKyYbWOl6K8x55QP_BDLvCYwJr1JKKIoLngiv3gkFKXbXbOPyBfPVkD0zsVA2UvjVWkys1CbL/s1957/v-Donn%20smiling.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1957" data-original-width="1935" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56kgwtR_lppnBwPnBMa-U_nVloyrbFPqcv8U3VDDN4gqFqQI_vDqrlL2DzpbeOtkVAM3G1wdv6Pi4cpZvwyZcKo5zfsr2ukeGin4SR09zGScXlGGIvCkJKyYbWOl6K8x55QP_BDLvCYwJr1JKKIoLngiv3gkFKXbXbOPyBfPVkD0zsVA2UvjVWkys1CbL/s320/v-Donn%20smiling.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our dear friend Donn. He comes weekly to help in the Gardens and also finds so many other ways to contribute as well. A true gem! <br /></td></tr></tbody></table>ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0Monroe's Sharing Garden, 664 Orchard St, Monroe, OR 97456, USA44.3131286 -123.299228816.002894763821153 -158.45547879999998 72.623362436178837 -88.1429788tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-6125291143094532092023-11-17T21:24:00.000-08:002023-11-23T12:18:09.565-08:00Dried Tomato Pesto - Recipe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZr1-tCtFmSzGslCkhyphenhyphenRSV9p8J66ECP6gZtv_Xm5HVkDbx1uQ3d1b_YZH8Ko9A_kpO5o5OWeFP6FhIXsTwSwx7P5Ax31v7mWuHHOBZwwOhx4YFzgGlsAJ4Qc0cf9PDr0Goip_XkXxzZQCTQ1nO68M6eWJT830lX9TzYLwpwofThDaChZHWe6tqrsBImGkE/s1546/HV.walnut.tomato.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="959" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZr1-tCtFmSzGslCkhyphenhyphenRSV9p8J66ECP6gZtv_Xm5HVkDbx1uQ3d1b_YZH8Ko9A_kpO5o5OWeFP6FhIXsTwSwx7P5Ax31v7mWuHHOBZwwOhx4YFzgGlsAJ4Qc0cf9PDr0Goip_XkXxzZQCTQ1nO68M6eWJT830lX9TzYLwpwofThDaChZHWe6tqrsBImGkE/s320/HV.walnut.tomato.JPG" width="198" /></a></div>Last
year we had a fantastic abundance of a type of tomato called
"Ropreco". It's a rather small fruit that's acorn-shaped. It's the
perfect variety for making dried tomatoes. Here's a delicious recipe if
you have that "high-quality problem" of too many dried tomatoes!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Dried Tomato Pesto</b></div>
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2 cups dried tomatoes</div>
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1 cup coursely chopped walnuts</div>
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3/4 cup olive oil</div>
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1/3 cup grated parmesan</div>
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1/4 cup dried basil (or a few tablespoons basil pesto)</div>
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4 cloves garlic -chopped</div>
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2 Tablespoons balsamic or other good vinegar</div>
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<br /></div>
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Puree
all ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Add a little water if
it seems too sticky, but it should remain thick enough to spread on a
slice of bread.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This and other delicious recipes are available here: <a href="http://www.animalvegetablemiracle.com/">Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver</a></div>
</div>
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ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-11789192688932908122023-10-10T14:58:00.000-07:002023-10-22T07:01:38.509-07:00Amazing Quince! - Sugar-free Recipe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Update - Oct. 2023: We've been continuing with our experiments with quince recipes and learned a few things. Rather than re-write the post, we've added an addendum at the end. Also, please read the comments for info offered by fellow readers. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
Hi folks - We've just made an amazing discovery. We love quince! When prepared as the recipe outlines
below, quince tastes like a pear/lemon fruit with a hint of peach and
rose-oil! Ambrosia!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWviAb6FibWdGXgQNdqW1MgNj62_y3VWLJ19EV7Ux94X0WXPzJj9TpD5xf9p6Y-EB5a9uZR0llQ5SkKhT4OIYsv4sCkxiIuqTRHSCNyKBt4gFm_s5wDwJPClX6u_6rtFlIGr3C8qu8VHw/s1600/GP-OCT-2019-Hickory-rainbow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1172" data-original-width="1600" height="467" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWviAb6FibWdGXgQNdqW1MgNj62_y3VWLJ19EV7Ux94X0WXPzJj9TpD5xf9p6Y-EB5a9uZR0llQ5SkKhT4OIYsv4sCkxiIuqTRHSCNyKBt4gFm_s5wDwJPClX6u_6rtFlIGr3C8qu8VHw/s640/GP-OCT-2019-Hickory-rainbow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This has been one of our most beautiful autumn seasons on memory!
Pictured is the back of our 1875 Farmhouse, the yellow, shag-bark
hickory tree (on the right) and a rainbow in-between. (October 2019)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Every year, about this time, one of the Monroe
"locals" drops off two or three HUGE boxes of quince at our local Food
Pantry. The quince usually sit on the shelves, for a month or more, with
a sign that says "Take as many as you as you can use," but very few
people take any, including us. Eventually the Pantry folks get tired of
looking at them and they end up in the Sharing Gardens compost pile.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNgUAmodtbgg036r_QXHbIwEhXXFAxxn2cgnjkqtKPAF5FRyiMIdDMYF4mudTcBLVbjXxj88Hle0HXMg19iZfZsZUxdlsLltf6LV5FjKU0sewWY-9HnCcsIyxyonuCUPX80oP64R3f4qQ/s1600/harv-quince-modernfarmer-dot-com.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="742" data-original-width="1200" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNgUAmodtbgg036r_QXHbIwEhXXFAxxn2cgnjkqtKPAF5FRyiMIdDMYF4mudTcBLVbjXxj88Hle0HXMg19iZfZsZUxdlsLltf6LV5FjKU0sewWY-9HnCcsIyxyonuCUPX80oP64R3f4qQ/s400/harv-quince-modernfarmer-dot-com.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quince after harvest. Photo credit: <a href="https://modernfarmer.com/2013/11/season-quince/" target="_blank">LINK</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We've been reluctant to try them because they're so darn <i>hard</i> <i>to cut open</i>
which makes them seem like a real pain to prepare. Also, they are very
tart when they're raw and every recipe we'd heard of called for lots of
sugar. We're always trying to find ways to <i>limit</i> our sugar
intake, not add to it! So, until we discovered the joys of quince, we
just figured our compost piles were going to have a nice big influx of
worm-food in a month or two.<br />
<br />
That is, until I (Llyn) looked up their nutritional content and Chris and I were pretty impressed - particularly as <b>a good source of zinc and copper</b>.
Minerals are often the most difficult nutrients to get enough of in our
modern diets. Most farm soils are increasingly depleted and, unless
you're getting your food from an organic farmer who replenishes those
minerals in natural ways that the plants can absorb, (like wood ash - <a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/coffee-grounds-and-wood-ash-for-soil.html" target="_blank"><b>LINK</b></a>) it may be difficult to get enough minerals from your diet without taking any vitamin supplements (which we don't). <b>Quince are also low-calorie, high in anti-oxidants and great for digestion (their natural pectin is soothing to the gut!).</b> Who knew? <b><a href="https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/what-is-quince-fruit" target="_blank">LINK</a> </b><br />
<br />
While
I was browsing for more general info about the quince, I found a recipe
that suggested boiling them for 8-10 min before baking them and then my
cooking creativity kicked in and I came up with the recipe below. I've
made it twice so I'm still fine-tuning it (so check back for updates!)
But the best thing is, this recipe calls for no refined cane sugar (just
maple-syrup, and not much of that) and is easy to prepare.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZn6WsFae_k9aYckD-4vzIZP7vtdvaxwofBcGj6jTqcjvLgrXPw2hUDtnJhMR7YcaLU_Bw251_1FqnMB9__lniybyRTC2qalcvYq6hDAMHLKftgh1gKN2K-VkJqqrl3Oc6SfurpgUkEM/s1600/harv-quince-.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZn6WsFae_k9aYckD-4vzIZP7vtdvaxwofBcGj6jTqcjvLgrXPw2hUDtnJhMR7YcaLU_Bw251_1FqnMB9__lniybyRTC2qalcvYq6hDAMHLKftgh1gKN2K-VkJqqrl3Oc6SfurpgUkEM/s400/harv-quince-.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pears
(on left). Whole, boiled quince (in bowl). Quartered quince (below) -
this picture was taken before I figured out how to cut fruit away from
core (see below).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u><b>The Recipe:</b></u><br />
<br />
4-6 medium-sized quince (about 5 cups)<br />
4-5 medium yellow pears (about 3 cups) (or sweet apples)<br />
1/3 cup maple syrup (about 1 TBSP maple syrup per cup of quince)<br />
1 TBSP lemon juice (don't over-do the lemon, as quince is plenty tart already!)<br />
1 tsp cinnamon<br />
<br />
Choose
uniformly yellow, fully ripe fruit without bruises or other damage. It
helps if they are a uniform size (for boiling phase).<br />
<br />
Bring a pan of water to boil - deep enough to mostly cover the quince.<br />
Using your bare hands, run the quince under water and rub as much of the fuzz off as you can (don't worry if you miss some).<br />
<br />
Place
in boiling water for 8-10 minutes, depending on size. I think I
over-did it the second time I made this. I was trying to soften the
fruit all the way through but the core remained quite hard, even with
longer boiling and the second time the outer fruit got rather mushy.<br />
<br />
Lift the quince out of the boiling water and allow to cool. <br />
<br />
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a baking dish with coconut oil or butter.<br />
Combine ingredients for sauce in a measuring cup with a lip for pouring.<br />
<br />
Once cool, using a cutting board, cut off any brown spots or other blemishes on the fruit. <br />
Slice
the remaining fruit away from the core in as big pieces as possible
(see picture). Your knife won't want to go through the core at all. It's
super-hard! Just keep shaving off pieces all the way around the core
till you've gotten as much as is easy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qogU-n9v_yUc2Tlswmd6X2WuoawXNGQ65NUYFh-_wmzd0l0hR6CF_zOzqhFFwiZ9bNDsyfb9K3TIDIUAunl0rDqx_S9bObXDoGcWwYcYDQ2F09uyJ9QHywBWl_oY0j87bBSOpBwzFnY/s1600/harv-quince-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1283" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qogU-n9v_yUc2Tlswmd6X2WuoawXNGQ65NUYFh-_wmzd0l0hR6CF_zOzqhFFwiZ9bNDsyfb9K3TIDIUAunl0rDqx_S9bObXDoGcWwYcYDQ2F09uyJ9QHywBWl_oY0j87bBSOpBwzFnY/s400/harv-quince-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut fruit away from the hard core.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Cut the fruit into bite-sized pieces.<br />
Wash and core the pears. Cut into bite-sized pieces.<br />
Mix the fruit together by layering it into the baking pan.<br />
Drizzle the sauce over top of the fruit. Gently stir the fruit and sauce together to spread sauce evenly.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhg77B9L3msvbtj5NNXJOWe7L13rjYAqc_jb14eV-5z7Kc53agUERKSIKMdril3R0pOXIV_KZ1CtFfta_fJkIk0jQ6ElWG7TdSRiwLShQb1b6GTx8z7d6twsHiMm-jt8YbbPLIMm_968I/s1600/harv-quince-5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhg77B9L3msvbtj5NNXJOWe7L13rjYAqc_jb14eV-5z7Kc53agUERKSIKMdril3R0pOXIV_KZ1CtFfta_fJkIk0jQ6ElWG7TdSRiwLShQb1b6GTx8z7d6twsHiMm-jt8YbbPLIMm_968I/s400/harv-quince-5.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quince, pears and sauce - before baking.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Use a pan with a lid, or cover with aluminum-foil.<br />
Bake for forty-minutes covered (or until juices are boiling). <br />
Take out, gently fold the fruit and sauce together so the fruit at the top gets re-sauced.<br />
Leave cover off and bake for 10 more minutes to lightly caramelize the top.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizcjntbnlWRkAQ1AiE8wshwq_99kZSeE8y5cOoZku9N77Xr1yFXAnYG5Q6Ghwv7fLy1MQDXb__2RF23AXmuuKxISPSOo3KBxlvSlbkq2aB0jSwpTHtFJSCO6a-AUbGTWhCPRAyK_7jCS8/s1600/harv-quince-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1563" data-original-width="1600" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizcjntbnlWRkAQ1AiE8wshwq_99kZSeE8y5cOoZku9N77Xr1yFXAnYG5Q6Ghwv7fLy1MQDXb__2RF23AXmuuKxISPSOo3KBxlvSlbkq2aB0jSwpTHtFJSCO6a-AUbGTWhCPRAyK_7jCS8/s400/harv-quince-6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After baking. Yum!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We like ours chilled with a scoop of organic low-fat,
plain yogurt and some organic, lightly sweetened shredded-wheat cereal
crushed on top.<br />
We'll keep experimenting...seems like raisins or
date-pieces would be good raw or cooked in with the fruit. Also, some
crushed walnuts or granola might be good too.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.growveg.com/guides/a-quince-essential-fruit-how-to-grow-quince-trees/" target="_blank"><b>A Quince Essential Fruit</b></a> - here's a fun post that gives more details about this unique fruit including growing tips.<br />
<br />
Let us know of your discoveries/variations in the comments below.<br />
<br />
<b>Addendum:</b> We've discovered that, at least with <i>our</i> quince, we can skip the boiling stage of the recipe. The core of quince is so hard that even boiling doesn't soften it but by shaving pieces off and then cutting these pieces into bite-sized pieces, we've found we can skip the boiling phase of the recipe outlined above. Don't know if all varieties of quince are soft enough to do this...<br />
<br /></div>
ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9035413595615119365.post-11771605032125313342023-10-08T13:50:00.000-07:002023-10-22T07:00:50.009-07:00Autumn Pleasures: Pumpkin Pie and Saving Tomato Seeds<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQ1k3pihvSpz3mWKYQO_kRuu9wlAHe0MqLzS9Z2BH1q3lfrFnObJI8T2-NzwLn6oY-Bmmt9kCkPwycWRFStj-QGoX9LuQJfeHM4Vnzis1SvBL3zMJ0pBknpEcHOPAI7leDDVNjruaMBAT/s1600/Chris-Rob-Sam.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQ1k3pihvSpz3mWKYQO_kRuu9wlAHe0MqLzS9Z2BH1q3lfrFnObJI8T2-NzwLn6oY-Bmmt9kCkPwycWRFStj-QGoX9LuQJfeHM4Vnzis1SvBL3zMJ0pBknpEcHOPAI7leDDVNjruaMBAT/s320/Chris-Rob-Sam.jpg" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob, Chris and Sam - harvesting potatoes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have lots of good news and updates to share about the Gardens, just not a lot of time to write the post! here are some timely <i>re</i>-posts of two articles pertaining to the Autumn season. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><a href="https://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2020/07/saving-tomato-seeds.html" target="_blank">Saving Tomato Seeds - LINK</a></b><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYmahIUO_mrxZjYYtj7UWqK_0YGyweHaSfcTwbyASQneD-igkPJLBSxKx28f4v1TLy8idjYFYihWGck4p0kghMzK7v36bLJjkdxtU9Qz-SdRqvBoTuzdPdN6-1xNmUM5a9za6vY5TTcUF/s1600/Provence-Pie.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYmahIUO_mrxZjYYtj7UWqK_0YGyweHaSfcTwbyASQneD-igkPJLBSxKx28f4v1TLy8idjYFYihWGck4p0kghMzK7v36bLJjkdxtU9Qz-SdRqvBoTuzdPdN6-1xNmUM5a9za6vY5TTcUF/s400/Provence-Pie.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Provence squash - ready for baking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://thesharinggardens.blogspot.com/2015/09/making-pumpkin-pie-from-scratch-recipe.html" target="_blank"><b>Making Pumpkin Pie from Scratch - LINK</b></a> <br />
<br /></div>
ShareInJoyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15141816776100943894noreply@blogger.com0